twaldron wrote:
> But how will it hold up? Real powdercoating is done around 500-450degF.

Oh I got it up to the recommended temps, just took a lot longer with
only halogen lamps instead of infrared.

The baking process is only for flowing the powder into a continuous
plastic layer... baking it too little would result in crumbling from
lack of melting, way too much heat or time would get you brittleness.
But as long as it flows together it's pretty much fool proof.

For what it's worth even with my makeshift heating setup, the coating is
too hard to even effect with a fingernail or a coin (wont even dent) it
takes a sharp knife to even gouge into it... compair this to keying a
paintjob... no way a key even leaves a mark on this stuff it wont even
knock the texture bumps down leaving a glossy spot :)


--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

twaldron wrote:
> But how will it hold up? Real powdercoating is done around 500-450degF.

Oh I got it up to the recommended temps, just took a lot longer with
only halogen lamps instead of infrared.

The baking process is only for flowing the powder into a continuous
plastic layer... baking it too little would result in crumbling from
lack of melting, way too much heat or time would get you brittleness.
But as long as it flows together it's pretty much fool proof.

For what it's worth even with my makeshift heating setup, the coating is
too hard to even effect with a fingernail or a coin (wont even dent) it
takes a sharp knife to even gouge into it... compair this to keying a
paintjob... no way a key even leaves a mark on this stuff it wont even
knock the texture bumps down leaving a glossy spot :)


--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

twaldron wrote:
> But how will it hold up? Real powdercoating is done around 500-450degF.

Oh I got it up to the recommended temps, just took a lot longer with
only halogen lamps instead of infrared.

The baking process is only for flowing the powder into a continuous
plastic layer... baking it too little would result in crumbling from
lack of melting, way too much heat or time would get you brittleness.
But as long as it flows together it's pretty much fool proof.

For what it's worth even with my makeshift heating setup, the coating is
too hard to even effect with a fingernail or a coin (wont even dent) it
takes a sharp knife to even gouge into it... compair this to keying a
paintjob... no way a key even leaves a mark on this stuff it wont even
knock the texture bumps down leaving a glossy spot :)


--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein

 

Sounds fun. How large a piece can you do with these setups?
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________


Simon Juncal wrote:
> twaldron wrote:
>
>> But how will it hold up? Real powdercoating is done around 500-450degF.
>
>
> Oh I got it up to the recommended temps, just took a lot longer with
> only halogen lamps instead of infrared.
>
> The baking process is only for flowing the powder into a continuous
> plastic layer... baking it too little would result in crumbling from
> lack of melting, way too much heat or time would get you brittleness.
> But as long as it flows together it's pretty much fool proof.
>
> For what it's worth even with my makeshift heating setup, the coating is
> too hard to even effect with a fingernail or a coin (wont even dent) it
> takes a sharp knife to even gouge into it... compair this to keying a
> paintjob... no way a key even leaves a mark on this stuff it wont even
> knock the texture bumps down leaving a glossy spot :)
>
>

 

Sounds fun. How large a piece can you do with these setups?
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________


Simon Juncal wrote:
> twaldron wrote:
>
>> But how will it hold up? Real powdercoating is done around 500-450degF.
>
>
> Oh I got it up to the recommended temps, just took a lot longer with
> only halogen lamps instead of infrared.
>
> The baking process is only for flowing the powder into a continuous
> plastic layer... baking it too little would result in crumbling from
> lack of melting, way too much heat or time would get you brittleness.
> But as long as it flows together it's pretty much fool proof.
>
> For what it's worth even with my makeshift heating setup, the coating is
> too hard to even effect with a fingernail or a coin (wont even dent) it
> takes a sharp knife to even gouge into it... compair this to keying a
> paintjob... no way a key even leaves a mark on this stuff it wont even
> knock the texture bumps down leaving a glossy spot :)
>
>

 

Sounds fun. How large a piece can you do with these setups?
__________________________________________________ ___________________
2003 TJ Rubicon * 2001 XJ Sport * 1971 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco

"There is a very fine line between 'hobby' and 'mental illness'."

Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80" wheelbase, 1/4-ton
capacity and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II.
__________________________________________________ ___________________


Simon Juncal wrote:
> twaldron wrote:
>
>> But how will it hold up? Real powdercoating is done around 500-450degF.
>
>
> Oh I got it up to the recommended temps, just took a lot longer with
> only halogen lamps instead of infrared.
>
> The baking process is only for flowing the powder into a continuous
> plastic layer... baking it too little would result in crumbling from
> lack of melting, way too much heat or time would get you brittleness.
> But as long as it flows together it's pretty much fool proof.
>
> For what it's worth even with my makeshift heating setup, the coating is
> too hard to even effect with a fingernail or a coin (wont even dent) it
> takes a sharp knife to even gouge into it... compair this to keying a
> paintjob... no way a key even leaves a mark on this stuff it wont even
> knock the texture bumps down leaving a glossy spot :)
>
>

 

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:Z92dnXEVMeg9DHfeRVn-vg@rcn.net...
> ah you pried it out of me: Columbia coatings
> http://www.columbiacoatings.com/
> they have the harbor freight system starting at 65 bucks which is
> cheaper than HF usually sells it for, and they include a few bits you'll
> want.

Obnoxious in-your-face religion site... I just want to take a gun to that
----in' fish that keeps swimming across the top of the page... Nawh, I'll
look elsewhere...

 

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:Z92dnXEVMeg9DHfeRVn-vg@rcn.net...
> ah you pried it out of me: Columbia coatings
> http://www.columbiacoatings.com/
> they have the harbor freight system starting at 65 bucks which is
> cheaper than HF usually sells it for, and they include a few bits you'll
> want.

Obnoxious in-your-face religion site... I just want to take a gun to that
----in' fish that keeps swimming across the top of the page... Nawh, I'll
look elsewhere...

 

"Simon Juncal" <SPAMERSSUCK@usefirstinitialandlastnameATerols.com > wrote in
message news:Z92dnXEVMeg9DHfeRVn-vg@rcn.net...
> ah you pried it out of me: Columbia coatings
> http://www.columbiacoatings.com/
> they have the harbor freight system starting at 65 bucks which is
> cheaper than HF usually sells it for, and they include a few bits you'll
> want.

Obnoxious in-your-face religion site... I just want to take a gun to that
----in' fish that keeps swimming across the top of the page... Nawh, I'll
look elsewhere...

 

twaldron wrote:
> Sounds fun. How large a piece can you do with these setups?

well I did my old 4.2 valve cover and had to move the lights to get the
ends to melt. I wouldn't go much bigger.

With infrared heaters the sky's the limit, someone had an entire jeep
parted out on ebay last week, powder coated tub, fenders, windshield
frame, roll bar everything down to the frame.

I was waiting on some crane "anti-pump up" lifters to continue on with
the 4.0 head swap, so I got this system, now I'm thinking of all sorts
of stuff that would be better coated with plastic :) brackets, caps,
hood prop... brush bar, bumper... my steel wagon wheels

--
Simon
"I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain." -- Robert A. Heinlein