Is it possible?
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
engine gaskets seals etc.
Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
underarm deodorant.
If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...
> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
engine gaskets seals etc.
Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
underarm deodorant.
If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
--
Now that Spirit Rover has confirmed the presence of weapons of
mass destruction on Mars, we are preparing to invade...
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
If your into snowmobiling. Gas line antifreeze or dry gas
is a very important gas additive. There are two kinds for sale
at krappy tire. Isopropyl alcohol is one and the other, methanol
I think it is. Iso is about 10 times more expensive than the other.
But iso alcohol is the only antifreeze to use on sleds.
I think it has to do with being "drier" than methanol
Anyone who knows more about this please elaborate more
Not using iso alcohol in snowmobiles under -10C results
in piston melt down. It doesn't take much water in gas to
wreck a snowmobile engine. Water collected from temp fluctuations
when the gas tank isn't full is enough to cause grief.
L0nD0t.$t0we11 wrote:
> Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>
>>What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
>
>
>
>
is a very important gas additive. There are two kinds for sale
at krappy tire. Isopropyl alcohol is one and the other, methanol
I think it is. Iso is about 10 times more expensive than the other.
But iso alcohol is the only antifreeze to use on sleds.
I think it has to do with being "drier" than methanol
Anyone who knows more about this please elaborate more
Not using iso alcohol in snowmobiles under -10C results
in piston melt down. It doesn't take much water in gas to
wreck a snowmobile engine. Water collected from temp fluctuations
when the gas tank isn't full is enough to cause grief.
L0nD0t.$t0we11 wrote:
> Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>
>>What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
>
>
>
>
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
If your into snowmobiling. Gas line antifreeze or dry gas
is a very important gas additive. There are two kinds for sale
at krappy tire. Isopropyl alcohol is one and the other, methanol
I think it is. Iso is about 10 times more expensive than the other.
But iso alcohol is the only antifreeze to use on sleds.
I think it has to do with being "drier" than methanol
Anyone who knows more about this please elaborate more
Not using iso alcohol in snowmobiles under -10C results
in piston melt down. It doesn't take much water in gas to
wreck a snowmobile engine. Water collected from temp fluctuations
when the gas tank isn't full is enough to cause grief.
L0nD0t.$t0we11 wrote:
> Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>
>>What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
>
>
>
>
is a very important gas additive. There are two kinds for sale
at krappy tire. Isopropyl alcohol is one and the other, methanol
I think it is. Iso is about 10 times more expensive than the other.
But iso alcohol is the only antifreeze to use on sleds.
I think it has to do with being "drier" than methanol
Anyone who knows more about this please elaborate more
Not using iso alcohol in snowmobiles under -10C results
in piston melt down. It doesn't take much water in gas to
wreck a snowmobile engine. Water collected from temp fluctuations
when the gas tank isn't full is enough to cause grief.
L0nD0t.$t0we11 wrote:
> Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>
>>What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
>
>
>
>
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
If your into snowmobiling. Gas line antifreeze or dry gas
is a very important gas additive. There are two kinds for sale
at krappy tire. Isopropyl alcohol is one and the other, methanol
I think it is. Iso is about 10 times more expensive than the other.
But iso alcohol is the only antifreeze to use on sleds.
I think it has to do with being "drier" than methanol
Anyone who knows more about this please elaborate more
Not using iso alcohol in snowmobiles under -10C results
in piston melt down. It doesn't take much water in gas to
wreck a snowmobile engine. Water collected from temp fluctuations
when the gas tank isn't full is enough to cause grief.
L0nD0t.$t0we11 wrote:
> Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>
>>What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
>
>
>
>
is a very important gas additive. There are two kinds for sale
at krappy tire. Isopropyl alcohol is one and the other, methanol
I think it is. Iso is about 10 times more expensive than the other.
But iso alcohol is the only antifreeze to use on sleds.
I think it has to do with being "drier" than methanol
Anyone who knows more about this please elaborate more
Not using iso alcohol in snowmobiles under -10C results
in piston melt down. It doesn't take much water in gas to
wreck a snowmobile engine. Water collected from temp fluctuations
when the gas tank isn't full is enough to cause grief.
L0nD0t.$t0we11 wrote:
> Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>
>>What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
>
>
>
>
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
Just the usual amounts of oil in the filter, I had my head down
looking in the carb and it looks like one jet is dibbling gobs of gas
instead of an atmomized stream.. So I can assume I need to do some
cleaning.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:23:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I have the manual choke and when my tubes plug, a little choke will keep
>me driving ok.
>
>There is another cause of rough idle, but it goes along with oil
>spitting into the air filter. No oil spits, not the trouble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike I think I will get a rebuild kit and pull the venturi out
>> on my next days off, I might as well do it as it is bound to be a
>> problem in the future. ( if not the problem now)
>>
>> I did notice that if I choke off the air to the carb the idle picks up
>> real nice.... I do have a good working choke but damn a manual choke
>> would be nice right now.
>>
>> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My 87 YJ 258 with a 2 month old carb started idling rough yesterday
>> >> and I'm a bit unsure as to what may have caused it. You guys probably
>> >> have seen my posts in the last little while and you might remember all
>> >> the work I have done to this vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> HEI ignition installed
>> >> New fuel filter/fuel pump/battery/plugs/wires/dist cap/carb etc etc
>> >>
>> >> It was running great until I got gas at a ------ station yesterday
>> >> then it just seemed to not want to idle nice and smooth like it has
>> >> been since I did all the work to it. I checked the intake for loose
>> >> bolts and found none ( I seem to have to tighten it up bi-monthly) and
>> >> I have no vac leaks detectable when I do a carb cleaner spray test
>> >> around the hoses.
>> >> A heathy dose of carb cleaner seems to have improved the idle but it
>> >> will not idle smooth like it did a few days ago.
>> >>
>> >> Is it possible my idle tubes have plugged up after 2 months on this
>> >> new carb?
>> >
>> >Yes, very possible!
>> >
>> >Mine kept plugging up every month or two until I finally figured the
>> >dirt was junk from the chunk of gas line that runs from the filter to
>> >the carb. This line has a dip in it and will hold junk, rust and
>> >varnish very well.
>> >
>> >I cleaned the line last time I put a kit in mine and it has lasted over
>> >a year this time.
>> >
>> >I also can/will get black chunks in my idle tubes now and then. That
>> >happens after running out of gas sometimes. The high vacuum or whatever
>> >happens when running out of gas can suck charcoal bits out of the
>> >canister into the top of the carb. These can make their way to the idle
>> >tubes.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
looking in the carb and it looks like one jet is dibbling gobs of gas
instead of an atmomized stream.. So I can assume I need to do some
cleaning.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:23:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I have the manual choke and when my tubes plug, a little choke will keep
>me driving ok.
>
>There is another cause of rough idle, but it goes along with oil
>spitting into the air filter. No oil spits, not the trouble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike I think I will get a rebuild kit and pull the venturi out
>> on my next days off, I might as well do it as it is bound to be a
>> problem in the future. ( if not the problem now)
>>
>> I did notice that if I choke off the air to the carb the idle picks up
>> real nice.... I do have a good working choke but damn a manual choke
>> would be nice right now.
>>
>> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My 87 YJ 258 with a 2 month old carb started idling rough yesterday
>> >> and I'm a bit unsure as to what may have caused it. You guys probably
>> >> have seen my posts in the last little while and you might remember all
>> >> the work I have done to this vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> HEI ignition installed
>> >> New fuel filter/fuel pump/battery/plugs/wires/dist cap/carb etc etc
>> >>
>> >> It was running great until I got gas at a ------ station yesterday
>> >> then it just seemed to not want to idle nice and smooth like it has
>> >> been since I did all the work to it. I checked the intake for loose
>> >> bolts and found none ( I seem to have to tighten it up bi-monthly) and
>> >> I have no vac leaks detectable when I do a carb cleaner spray test
>> >> around the hoses.
>> >> A heathy dose of carb cleaner seems to have improved the idle but it
>> >> will not idle smooth like it did a few days ago.
>> >>
>> >> Is it possible my idle tubes have plugged up after 2 months on this
>> >> new carb?
>> >
>> >Yes, very possible!
>> >
>> >Mine kept plugging up every month or two until I finally figured the
>> >dirt was junk from the chunk of gas line that runs from the filter to
>> >the carb. This line has a dip in it and will hold junk, rust and
>> >varnish very well.
>> >
>> >I cleaned the line last time I put a kit in mine and it has lasted over
>> >a year this time.
>> >
>> >I also can/will get black chunks in my idle tubes now and then. That
>> >happens after running out of gas sometimes. The high vacuum or whatever
>> >happens when running out of gas can suck charcoal bits out of the
>> >canister into the top of the carb. These can make their way to the idle
>> >tubes.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
Just the usual amounts of oil in the filter, I had my head down
looking in the carb and it looks like one jet is dibbling gobs of gas
instead of an atmomized stream.. So I can assume I need to do some
cleaning.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:23:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I have the manual choke and when my tubes plug, a little choke will keep
>me driving ok.
>
>There is another cause of rough idle, but it goes along with oil
>spitting into the air filter. No oil spits, not the trouble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike I think I will get a rebuild kit and pull the venturi out
>> on my next days off, I might as well do it as it is bound to be a
>> problem in the future. ( if not the problem now)
>>
>> I did notice that if I choke off the air to the carb the idle picks up
>> real nice.... I do have a good working choke but damn a manual choke
>> would be nice right now.
>>
>> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My 87 YJ 258 with a 2 month old carb started idling rough yesterday
>> >> and I'm a bit unsure as to what may have caused it. You guys probably
>> >> have seen my posts in the last little while and you might remember all
>> >> the work I have done to this vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> HEI ignition installed
>> >> New fuel filter/fuel pump/battery/plugs/wires/dist cap/carb etc etc
>> >>
>> >> It was running great until I got gas at a ------ station yesterday
>> >> then it just seemed to not want to idle nice and smooth like it has
>> >> been since I did all the work to it. I checked the intake for loose
>> >> bolts and found none ( I seem to have to tighten it up bi-monthly) and
>> >> I have no vac leaks detectable when I do a carb cleaner spray test
>> >> around the hoses.
>> >> A heathy dose of carb cleaner seems to have improved the idle but it
>> >> will not idle smooth like it did a few days ago.
>> >>
>> >> Is it possible my idle tubes have plugged up after 2 months on this
>> >> new carb?
>> >
>> >Yes, very possible!
>> >
>> >Mine kept plugging up every month or two until I finally figured the
>> >dirt was junk from the chunk of gas line that runs from the filter to
>> >the carb. This line has a dip in it and will hold junk, rust and
>> >varnish very well.
>> >
>> >I cleaned the line last time I put a kit in mine and it has lasted over
>> >a year this time.
>> >
>> >I also can/will get black chunks in my idle tubes now and then. That
>> >happens after running out of gas sometimes. The high vacuum or whatever
>> >happens when running out of gas can suck charcoal bits out of the
>> >canister into the top of the carb. These can make their way to the idle
>> >tubes.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
looking in the carb and it looks like one jet is dibbling gobs of gas
instead of an atmomized stream.. So I can assume I need to do some
cleaning.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:23:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I have the manual choke and when my tubes plug, a little choke will keep
>me driving ok.
>
>There is another cause of rough idle, but it goes along with oil
>spitting into the air filter. No oil spits, not the trouble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike I think I will get a rebuild kit and pull the venturi out
>> on my next days off, I might as well do it as it is bound to be a
>> problem in the future. ( if not the problem now)
>>
>> I did notice that if I choke off the air to the carb the idle picks up
>> real nice.... I do have a good working choke but damn a manual choke
>> would be nice right now.
>>
>> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My 87 YJ 258 with a 2 month old carb started idling rough yesterday
>> >> and I'm a bit unsure as to what may have caused it. You guys probably
>> >> have seen my posts in the last little while and you might remember all
>> >> the work I have done to this vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> HEI ignition installed
>> >> New fuel filter/fuel pump/battery/plugs/wires/dist cap/carb etc etc
>> >>
>> >> It was running great until I got gas at a ------ station yesterday
>> >> then it just seemed to not want to idle nice and smooth like it has
>> >> been since I did all the work to it. I checked the intake for loose
>> >> bolts and found none ( I seem to have to tighten it up bi-monthly) and
>> >> I have no vac leaks detectable when I do a carb cleaner spray test
>> >> around the hoses.
>> >> A heathy dose of carb cleaner seems to have improved the idle but it
>> >> will not idle smooth like it did a few days ago.
>> >>
>> >> Is it possible my idle tubes have plugged up after 2 months on this
>> >> new carb?
>> >
>> >Yes, very possible!
>> >
>> >Mine kept plugging up every month or two until I finally figured the
>> >dirt was junk from the chunk of gas line that runs from the filter to
>> >the carb. This line has a dip in it and will hold junk, rust and
>> >varnish very well.
>> >
>> >I cleaned the line last time I put a kit in mine and it has lasted over
>> >a year this time.
>> >
>> >I also can/will get black chunks in my idle tubes now and then. That
>> >happens after running out of gas sometimes. The high vacuum or whatever
>> >happens when running out of gas can suck charcoal bits out of the
>> >canister into the top of the carb. These can make their way to the idle
>> >tubes.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
Just the usual amounts of oil in the filter, I had my head down
looking in the carb and it looks like one jet is dibbling gobs of gas
instead of an atmomized stream.. So I can assume I need to do some
cleaning.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:23:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I have the manual choke and when my tubes plug, a little choke will keep
>me driving ok.
>
>There is another cause of rough idle, but it goes along with oil
>spitting into the air filter. No oil spits, not the trouble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike I think I will get a rebuild kit and pull the venturi out
>> on my next days off, I might as well do it as it is bound to be a
>> problem in the future. ( if not the problem now)
>>
>> I did notice that if I choke off the air to the carb the idle picks up
>> real nice.... I do have a good working choke but damn a manual choke
>> would be nice right now.
>>
>> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My 87 YJ 258 with a 2 month old carb started idling rough yesterday
>> >> and I'm a bit unsure as to what may have caused it. You guys probably
>> >> have seen my posts in the last little while and you might remember all
>> >> the work I have done to this vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> HEI ignition installed
>> >> New fuel filter/fuel pump/battery/plugs/wires/dist cap/carb etc etc
>> >>
>> >> It was running great until I got gas at a ------ station yesterday
>> >> then it just seemed to not want to idle nice and smooth like it has
>> >> been since I did all the work to it. I checked the intake for loose
>> >> bolts and found none ( I seem to have to tighten it up bi-monthly) and
>> >> I have no vac leaks detectable when I do a carb cleaner spray test
>> >> around the hoses.
>> >> A heathy dose of carb cleaner seems to have improved the idle but it
>> >> will not idle smooth like it did a few days ago.
>> >>
>> >> Is it possible my idle tubes have plugged up after 2 months on this
>> >> new carb?
>> >
>> >Yes, very possible!
>> >
>> >Mine kept plugging up every month or two until I finally figured the
>> >dirt was junk from the chunk of gas line that runs from the filter to
>> >the carb. This line has a dip in it and will hold junk, rust and
>> >varnish very well.
>> >
>> >I cleaned the line last time I put a kit in mine and it has lasted over
>> >a year this time.
>> >
>> >I also can/will get black chunks in my idle tubes now and then. That
>> >happens after running out of gas sometimes. The high vacuum or whatever
>> >happens when running out of gas can suck charcoal bits out of the
>> >canister into the top of the carb. These can make their way to the idle
>> >tubes.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
looking in the carb and it looks like one jet is dibbling gobs of gas
instead of an atmomized stream.. So I can assume I need to do some
cleaning.
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 11:23:55 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>I have the manual choke and when my tubes plug, a little choke will keep
>me driving ok.
>
>There is another cause of rough idle, but it goes along with oil
>spitting into the air filter. No oil spits, not the trouble.
>
>Mike
>
>Jeepster wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Mike I think I will get a rebuild kit and pull the venturi out
>> on my next days off, I might as well do it as it is bound to be a
>> problem in the future. ( if not the problem now)
>>
>> I did notice that if I choke off the air to the carb the idle picks up
>> real nice.... I do have a good working choke but damn a manual choke
>> would be nice right now.
>>
>> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 08:01:33 -0500, Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Jeepster wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My 87 YJ 258 with a 2 month old carb started idling rough yesterday
>> >> and I'm a bit unsure as to what may have caused it. You guys probably
>> >> have seen my posts in the last little while and you might remember all
>> >> the work I have done to this vehicle.
>> >>
>> >> HEI ignition installed
>> >> New fuel filter/fuel pump/battery/plugs/wires/dist cap/carb etc etc
>> >>
>> >> It was running great until I got gas at a ------ station yesterday
>> >> then it just seemed to not want to idle nice and smooth like it has
>> >> been since I did all the work to it. I checked the intake for loose
>> >> bolts and found none ( I seem to have to tighten it up bi-monthly) and
>> >> I have no vac leaks detectable when I do a carb cleaner spray test
>> >> around the hoses.
>> >> A heathy dose of carb cleaner seems to have improved the idle but it
>> >> will not idle smooth like it did a few days ago.
>> >>
>> >> Is it possible my idle tubes have plugged up after 2 months on this
>> >> new carb?
>> >
>> >Yes, very possible!
>> >
>> >Mine kept plugging up every month or two until I finally figured the
>> >dirt was junk from the chunk of gas line that runs from the filter to
>> >the carb. This line has a dip in it and will hold junk, rust and
>> >varnish very well.
>> >
>> >I cleaned the line last time I put a kit in mine and it has lasted over
>> >a year this time.
>> >
>> >I also can/will get black chunks in my idle tubes now and then. That
>> >happens after running out of gas sometimes. The high vacuum or whatever
>> >happens when running out of gas can suck charcoal bits out of the
>> >canister into the top of the carb. These can make their way to the idle
>> >tubes.
>> >
>> >Mike
>> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
I have seen very large pieces of equipment rot out and explode due to
sodium and chlorides..... I might avoid that treatment :)
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:13:58 GMT, "L0nD0t.$t0we11"
<"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote:
>Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
sodium and chlorides..... I might avoid that treatment :)
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:13:58 GMT, "L0nD0t.$t0we11"
<"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote:
>Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
I have seen very large pieces of equipment rot out and explode due to
sodium and chlorides..... I might avoid that treatment :)
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:13:58 GMT, "L0nD0t.$t0we11"
<"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote:
>Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
sodium and chlorides..... I might avoid that treatment :)
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:13:58 GMT, "L0nD0t.$t0we11"
<"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote:
>Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Is it possible?
I have seen very large pieces of equipment rot out and explode due to
sodium and chlorides..... I might avoid that treatment :)
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:13:58 GMT, "L0nD0t.$t0we11"
<"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote:
>Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)
sodium and chlorides..... I might avoid that treatment :)
On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:13:58 GMT, "L0nD0t.$t0we11"
<"L0nD0t.$t0we11"@ComcastDot.Net> wrote:
>Roughly 1/26/04 23:38, Dave Milne's monkeys randomly typed:
>
>> What's "dry gas" - I'll know it under a different name, I bet ?
>
> Is usually isopropyl alcohol. Methanol tends to be a bit
> too corrosive, ethanol would work, but isopropyl is easier to
> deal with and produce with extremely low water content.
>
> There are a few other solvents that grab water almost as well
> as light alcohols, but tend to have varying effects on
> engine gaskets seals etc.
>
> Or you could drop a lump of sodium in your tank. It is actually
> stored in kerosene, but will absorb any water in the area with
> impressive vigor. And then to get rid of the resulting sodium
> hydroxide, you add shredded aluminum which reacts with the NaOH
> to produce hydrogen gas and aluminum hydroxide. Give the hydrogen
> to your fuel celled buddies and use the aluminum hydroxide as
> underarm deodorant.
>
> If you need any more chemistry tips, just ask. >:-)