POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
02-10-2004, 11:54 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
well it is kinda tough stuff. I once wire brushed it, with an airtool
that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off.
According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish
(painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or
anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it.
(but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
> POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
>
>
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a
> hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain
> scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
>
that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off.
According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish
(painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or
anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it.
(but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
> POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
>
>
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a
> hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain
> scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
>
02-10-2004, 11:54 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
well it is kinda tough stuff. I once wire brushed it, with an airtool
that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off.
According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish
(painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or
anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it.
(but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
> POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
>
>
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a
> hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain
> scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
>
that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off.
According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish
(painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or
anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it.
(but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
> POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
>
>
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a
> hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain
> scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
>
02-10-2004, 11:54 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
well it is kinda tough stuff. I once wire brushed it, with an airtool
that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off.
According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish
(painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or
anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it.
(but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
> POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
>
>
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a
> hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain
> scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
>
that had a wirebrush attached to it, and it didn't come off.
According to "them" it bonds with metal.
There are different finishes I believe. I went with the "regular" finish
(painting the fram etc, that's under the Jeep, almost no one will see it).
Oh and I painted the skidplate with it too, it doesn't scratch off or
anything.
Only thing they mention is that UV light will have an effect on it.
(but as I said, what I painted is underneath the Jeep)
Ron
Evan wrote:
> POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
>
>
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR is a
> hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that Rattle can pain
> scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
>
02-10-2004, 12:37 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
On Mon, 10 Feb 2004, Evan wrote:
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR
> is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that
> Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes
before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that
didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a
fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags
easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and
have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces
with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over
clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first,
otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that
won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light
will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion
problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their
tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go
straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking.
The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight
from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast,
ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid
down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the
lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get
about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local
humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed
from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it
takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a
puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets.
If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor,
but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the
job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept
under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in
the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if
you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing
the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't
use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR
> is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that
> Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes
before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that
didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a
fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags
easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and
have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces
with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over
clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first,
otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that
won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light
will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion
problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their
tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go
straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking.
The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight
from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast,
ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid
down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the
lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get
about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local
humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed
from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it
takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a
puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets.
If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor,
but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the
job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept
under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in
the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if
you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing
the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't
use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
02-10-2004, 12:37 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
On Mon, 10 Feb 2004, Evan wrote:
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR
> is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that
> Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes
before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that
didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a
fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags
easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and
have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces
with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over
clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first,
otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that
won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light
will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion
problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their
tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go
straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking.
The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight
from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast,
ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid
down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the
lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get
about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local
humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed
from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it
takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a
puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets.
If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor,
but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the
job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept
under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in
the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if
you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing
the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't
use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR
> is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that
> Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes
before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that
didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a
fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags
easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and
have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces
with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over
clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first,
otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that
won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light
will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion
problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their
tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go
straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking.
The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight
from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast,
ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid
down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the
lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get
about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local
humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed
from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it
takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a
puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets.
If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor,
but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the
job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept
under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in
the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if
you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing
the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't
use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
02-10-2004, 12:37 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
On Mon, 10 Feb 2004, Evan wrote:
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR
> is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that
> Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes
before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that
didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a
fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags
easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and
have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces
with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over
clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first,
otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that
won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light
will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion
problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their
tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go
straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking.
The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight
from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast,
ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid
down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the
lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get
about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local
humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed
from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it
takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a
puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets.
If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor,
but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the
job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept
under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in
the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if
you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing
the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't
use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
> I Am about to paint bumpers and Roll bar black. I understand that POR
> is a hard almost powder coat finish. In the past I have felt that
> Rattle can pain scratches and peals to easily.
>
> So is POR Hard? Is it Flat or Mat Finish? Or more of a Hammered?
Others have commented here on the disappointment of powdercoat finishes
before. The usual lament is "I've never had a powdercoated part that
didn't rust."
POR-15 sets (it is catalyzed by moisture, it doesn't really dry) to a
fairly hard, glassy-smooth finish that can be scratched. It runs and sags
easily when brushed on, especially if you've followed the instructions and
have kept opened cans in the fridge.
POR-15 doesn't adhere readily to clean metal, it sticks best to surfaces
with a good "tooth" like a nice rusty surface. If you are painting over
clean or aged painted metal you should use their prep kit first,
otherwise you are putting down a very expensive coating of something that
won't do what you want it to do -- you might as well be using Rustoleum.
POR-15 must be top-coated if it will be exposed to sunlight as UV light
will degrade it. Since it is so smooth and it might present adhesion
problems for what ever you paint over it, you might consider using their
tie-coat. Now you're up to 3 POR products. Or, skip the POR and just go
straight to Rustoleum.
By the way, the instruction sheet that comes with POR-15 isn't joking.
The stuff starts to set as soon as you open the can. Don't paint straight
from the can unless you expect to use the entire can and can paint fast,
ladle (don't pour) it out and use a paint cup. It _will_ glue the lid
down, do use a double layer of plastic food wrap between the can and the
lid. Buy a fist full of displosable plastic bristle brushes, you'll get
about an hour or two of life out of each one, depending on the local
humidity. Wear old clothes and nitryl gloves -- POR cannot be removed
from clothing (it makes a good binder for fiberglas cloth repairs) and it
takes a week or so for it to wear off of your skin. If you dribble a
puddle of it on your concrete shop floor, leave it alone until it sets.
If you try to wipe it up you'll just make a permanent stain on the floor,
but the puddle can be scraped off with a putty knife after it sets.
Buy less than you think you need, then reorder a small can to finish the
job. POR-15 does not have a long shelf life once opened, even if kept
under refrigeration. It will turn to a solid block of plastic resin in
the can.
Having said all that, POR-15 is excellent for what it is designed for, if
you use the way the manufacturer intended: Painting over rust and sealing
the surface against further moisture damage. I love it. But if you don't
use it the way they designed it, you are just wasting money.
02-10-2004, 10:27 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
Thanks to all, Just saved me money. . .
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
02-10-2004, 10:27 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
Thanks to all, Just saved me money. . .
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
02-10-2004, 10:27 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
Thanks to all, Just saved me money. . .
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
But I'll get to the frame this spring,
83 CJ 8, a work in progress
http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
02-10-2004, 10:34 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: POR 's Finish, How dose it Dry
Don't get carried away, as: http://www.saturdaybang.com/jeep/
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Evan wrote:
>
> Thanks to all, Just saved me money. . .
>
> But I'll get to the frame this spring,
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Evan wrote:
>
> Thanks to all, Just saved me money. . .
>
> But I'll get to the frame this spring,
>
> 83 CJ 8, a work in progress
> http://hometown.aol.com/ebmvi/MyTJindex.html
> Take out the "XXX" to e-mail me