DaveW

c wrote:


>
> This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while to
> get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when the
> lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off.

I heard that! A Slant 6 will splatter quite well at 600 RPM. And my
Toyota Celica would splatter something awful out of the oil filler hole
if you left the cap off.

Fortunately, I've never had to take the valve cover off either of my Jeeps!

Regards,

DAve

DaveW

c wrote:


>
> This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while to
> get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when the
> lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off.

I heard that! A Slant 6 will splatter quite well at 600 RPM. And my
Toyota Celica would splatter something awful out of the oil filler hole
if you left the cap off.

Fortunately, I've never had to take the valve cover off either of my Jeeps!

Regards,

DAve

DaveW

c wrote:


>
> This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while to
> get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when the
> lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off.

I heard that! A Slant 6 will splatter quite well at 600 RPM. And my
Toyota Celica would splatter something awful out of the oil filler hole
if you left the cap off.

Fortunately, I've never had to take the valve cover off either of my Jeeps!

Regards,

DAve

econof

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out of
> it
> > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket on.
I
> > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
today
> I
> > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> have
> > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> think
> > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
pan
> > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
from
> > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> just
> > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out of
> > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > Allen
> > 83 CJ7
> >
> >
>
> This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
to
> get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
the
> lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
20-25
> PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb is
to
> have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
Just
> ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
out.
> The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
replace
> the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very expensive.
> This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are much
> more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> faster.
>
> Chris
>
>

4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running it
through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
psi at 2000 rpm.

econof

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out of
> it
> > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket on.
I
> > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
today
> I
> > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> have
> > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> think
> > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
pan
> > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
from
> > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> just
> > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out of
> > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > Allen
> > 83 CJ7
> >
> >
>
> This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
to
> get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
the
> lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
20-25
> PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb is
to
> have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
Just
> ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
out.
> The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
replace
> the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very expensive.
> This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are much
> more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> faster.
>
> Chris
>
>

4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running it
through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
psi at 2000 rpm.

econof

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
>
> <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out of
> it
> > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket on.
I
> > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
today
> I
> > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> have
> > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> think
> > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
pan
> > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
from
> > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> just
> > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out of
> > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > Allen
> > 83 CJ7
> >
> >
>
> This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
to
> get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
the
> lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
20-25
> PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb is
to
> have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
Just
> ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
out.
> The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
replace
> the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very expensive.
> This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are much
> more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> faster.
>
> Chris
>
>

4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running it
through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
psi at 2000 rpm.

c

"econof" <econof@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:P8iub.32706$Dw6.162634@attbi_s02...
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out
of
> > it
> > > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket
on.
> I
> > > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
> today
> > I
> > > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> > have
> > > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> > think
> > > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
> pan
> > > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
> from
> > > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> > just
> > > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out
of
> > > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> >
> > This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
> to
> > get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash
the
> > valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
> the
> > lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
> 20-25
> > PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb
is
> to
> > have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> > 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
> Just
> > ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
> out.
> > The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> > mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
> replace
> > the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very
expensive.
> > This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are
much
> > more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> > faster.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
> 4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running
it
> through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
> psi at 2000 rpm.
>
>

I think you misunderstood me. I was using the RPM as an example and wasn't
implying that everyone is spinning their 258 at 4500 RPM. Also, if you
notice, I said that was the minimum pressure required for that RPM. The
"minimum" required for an engine to survive at 2000 RPM is 20PSI. If you've
got 50PSI at 2000 RPM, even better.

Chris

c

"econof" <econof@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:P8iub.32706$Dw6.162634@attbi_s02...
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out
of
> > it
> > > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket
on.
> I
> > > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
> today
> > I
> > > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> > have
> > > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> > think
> > > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
> pan
> > > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
> from
> > > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> > just
> > > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out
of
> > > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> >
> > This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
> to
> > get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash
the
> > valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
> the
> > lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
> 20-25
> > PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb
is
> to
> > have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> > 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
> Just
> > ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
> out.
> > The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> > mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
> replace
> > the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very
expensive.
> > This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are
much
> > more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> > faster.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
> 4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running
it
> through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
> psi at 2000 rpm.
>
>

I think you misunderstood me. I was using the RPM as an example and wasn't
implying that everyone is spinning their 258 at 4500 RPM. Also, if you
notice, I said that was the minimum pressure required for that RPM. The
"minimum" required for an engine to survive at 2000 RPM is 20PSI. If you've
got 50PSI at 2000 RPM, even better.

Chris

c

"econof" <econof@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:P8iub.32706$Dw6.162634@attbi_s02...
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out
of
> > it
> > > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket
on.
> I
> > > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
> today
> > I
> > > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> > have
> > > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> > think
> > > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
> pan
> > > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
> from
> > > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> > just
> > > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out
of
> > > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> >
> > This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
> to
> > get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash
the
> > valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
> the
> > lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
> 20-25
> > PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb
is
> to
> > have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> > 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
> Just
> > ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
> out.
> > The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> > mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
> replace
> > the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very
expensive.
> > This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are
much
> > more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> > faster.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
> 4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running
it
> through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
> psi at 2000 rpm.
>
>

I think you misunderstood me. I was using the RPM as an example and wasn't
implying that everyone is spinning their 258 at 4500 RPM. Also, if you
notice, I said that was the minimum pressure required for that RPM. The
"minimum" required for an engine to survive at 2000 RPM is 20PSI. If you've
got 50PSI at 2000 RPM, even better.

Chris

Mike Romain

econof wrote:
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:09fub.58641$M02.22051@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> >
> > <ABanks5@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> > news:C1fub.9747$uw5.1177@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
> > > I'm in the process of changing the valve cover gasket on my 258...it
> > > leaks...shocker I know. I took the cover off and cleaned the crap out of
> > it
> > > with Simple Green. The inside is very dry now. So I put a new gasket on.
> I
> > > fired it up for about 2 minutes and found yet another small leak. So
> today
> > I
> > > take it off and noticed that the top inside of the valve cover doesn't
> > have
> > > any oil on it at all...bone dry like the day I put it on. Wouldn't you
> > think
> > > that two minutes of running would be enough to get the oil out of the
> pan
> > > and splash the top of the cover?? It got enough oil up to show a leak
> from
> > > the bottom of the cover. My gauge is reading low...around 20-25 PSI. I
> > just
> > > recently bought the jeep (was a project) and the entire dash was out of
> > > it..so I'm not sure if this is a guage/sender problem or not.
> > > Allen
> > > 83 CJ7
> > >
> > >
> >
> > This really isn't an issue. Some engines (the 258 included) take a while
> to
> > get the oil flowing at the top end. Even then it may or may not splash the
> > valve cover at idle. Some engines will spray oil all over the place when
> the
> > lifters are being adjusted with the valve cover(s) off. As for having
> 20-25
> > PSI oil pressure at idle, that is perfectly fine. A good rule of thumb is
> to
> > have 10PSI pressure for every 1000RPM that the engine is turning, so at
> > 4500RPM you should have 45PSI as a minimum. The gauge is easy to test.
> Just
> > ground the lead that goes to the sending unit and the gauge should max
> out.
> > The sending unit is a bit more difficult to test. You can hook up a
> > mechanical gauge and verify the sender is working properly, or just
> replace
> > the sending unit if you aren't sure about it. They aren't very expensive.
> > This is why I really prefer mechanical oil pressure gauges. They are much
> > more reliable than the electrics, and also respond to pressure changes
> > faster.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
>
> 4500 rpm on a 258 is way to high. I barely get to 3000 when I am running it
> through the gears hard. The Chiltons manual says that you should be at 50
> psi at 2000 rpm.

My 86 will pull hard and fast up to 4500 rpm since I dumped the governor
out of it (emissions computer).

Meanwhile, they don't spray oil at idle up top. You can see it running
out the rockers, but no splashes.

As the main bearings wear in that engine the oil pressure drops. Mine
was down to 25-30 hot and at speed, but still had tons of power and good
compression at 145000 miles.

I went to one with 40K on it and the highway oil pressure is about
45-55.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's