poll: additives?
12-01-2004, 09:36 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
That's really an eye-opener! I've got 2 questions though: what about
Valvoline Max Life (breaks the rule stated in the article that no oil
companies do additives) Could there be something to it? Also, what
about trick-shift for the transmission? Is it really any better?
Thanks,
Matt
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message news:<3159rtF36t668U1@individual.net>...
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
Valvoline Max Life (breaks the rule stated in the article that no oil
companies do additives) Could there be something to it? Also, what
about trick-shift for the transmission? Is it really any better?
Thanks,
Matt
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message news:<3159rtF36t668U1@individual.net>...
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
12-01-2004, 09:36 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
That's really an eye-opener! I've got 2 questions though: what about
Valvoline Max Life (breaks the rule stated in the article that no oil
companies do additives) Could there be something to it? Also, what
about trick-shift for the transmission? Is it really any better?
Thanks,
Matt
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message news:<3159rtF36t668U1@individual.net>...
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
Valvoline Max Life (breaks the rule stated in the article that no oil
companies do additives) Could there be something to it? Also, what
about trick-shift for the transmission? Is it really any better?
Thanks,
Matt
"Paul Calman" <spam@trap.com> wrote in message news:<3159rtF36t668U1@individual.net>...
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
12-01-2004, 02:10 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
The report was written in 92, max-life is more recent.
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.
There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.
My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.
I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.
There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.
My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.
I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
12-01-2004, 02:10 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
The report was written in 92, max-life is more recent.
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.
There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.
My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.
I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.
There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.
My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.
I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
12-01-2004, 02:10 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
The report was written in 92, max-life is more recent.
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.
There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.
My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.
I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
As to "restore", contains ground up rings and bearings that magically go
where needed? It probably would as least raise oil pressure as the dense
metals are harder to pump, and would tend to restrict flow in small spaces.
All I know is that if an engine is messed up to the point where you may
consider an additive as a repair, it's time for a rebuild.
There are a lot of other discussions about oil for motorcycles
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm (written in 94), the claim that
there is more shearing in the transmission is somewhat valid, but the
solution of more zinc isn't effective because of federal environmental
limits, so they can't put in enough to make a difference, but "motorcycle
oil" is far more expensive anyway. Oils with the "energy conserving" rating
are friction modified, bad for wet clutches.
My 76 Honda goldwing is a great test bed for oils, it has well over 100K
miles, has 3 internal chains, transmission, clutch, and a finicky starter
over-riding clutch all in the same pool of oil. I can tell by the sounds it
makes that it needs an oil change. It gets quieter progressively with this
procession of oils I have run, Quaker, Valvoline, Delo, Kendall, all in
20-50 grade. There is a huge difference in sound from Quaker to Kendall. I
have gone backwards to verify, and the sound changes are consistant.
I did once manage to get a case of Swepco 306,
http://www.swepcousa.com/lubesite/oil.htm , which I think may be the best
out there (used to use it when I worked full-time as a Benz Tech), but poor
marketing and high prices
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...swepco_pg5.htm
,keep it obscured and hard to find. I actually measured an increase of 2 mpg
after the change. Their gear lube will work miracles with noisy BMW
transmissions and diffs.
--
Paul Calman, Hathaway Pines, California
12-01-2004, 07:54 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 23:24:03 -0800, Paul Calman wrote:
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address
molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow
Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive
in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't
endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of
MoS2 lubricants.)
--
-bob-
_______________________
SuSE LINUX 9.2
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address
molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow
Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive
in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't
endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of
MoS2 lubricants.)
--
-bob-
_______________________
SuSE LINUX 9.2
12-01-2004, 07:54 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 23:24:03 -0800, Paul Calman wrote:
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address
molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow
Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive
in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't
endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of
MoS2 lubricants.)
--
-bob-
_______________________
SuSE LINUX 9.2
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address
molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow
Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive
in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't
endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of
MoS2 lubricants.)
--
-bob-
_______________________
SuSE LINUX 9.2
12-01-2004, 07:54 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: poll: additives?
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 23:24:03 -0800, Paul Calman wrote:
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address
molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow
Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive
in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't
endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of
MoS2 lubricants.)
--
-bob-
_______________________
SuSE LINUX 9.2
> chew on this a while.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html
I'm a bit surprised that they didn't address
molybdenum disulfide as an additive. I've used Dow
Corning's Molykote(R) M for years as an additive
in my engine oil. (And unlike Dupont, who don't
endorse PTFE additives, Dow has their own line of
MoS2 lubricants.)
--
-bob-
_______________________
SuSE LINUX 9.2
12-03-2004, 06:08 AM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: additives?
I can't really tell about oil pressure as it's always in the 40-60 range,
hot or cold. However we put a can in my son's 89 xj that has less miles and
had a "nomal" amount of noise and besides less noise he's got just a tad
bit more pressure but again his was not low eather. The can says it takes
"up to 500 miles" to do it's thing. Both xj's seem to be running smoother
under excelleration.
JoBo
"SteveBrady" <steve.brady@(remove this)rogers.com> wrote in message
news:QvednefK5L8kKDDcRVn-3Q@rogers.com...
> How much do you have to put in normally?
> wondering if you saw an increase in oil pressure at al!?
>
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:c6ird.992$CG4.147@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
>>I had a good experience with "RESTORE". The engine on my 96 xj was very
>>noisey. With the engine ideling I poured a can in. Before I got it all in
>>the engine instantly quited down. Unbelievable. It contains microscopic
>>particles that are 40% lead, 60% copper and are bound by silver. Sounds
>>like the same material bearings are made of.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>> "Brian" <b_heller@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:b_heller-D5EED9.22570730112004@news.verizon.net...
>>> I'm curious what y'all think of the various additives to fuel, motor
>>> oil, coolant, etc. Anybody use something they found was good? Bad? I
>>> know many of them are useless. Let's hear about all of 'em.
>>>
>>> B
>>>
>>> --
>>> Brian Heller
>>>
>>> It is easier to tame wild beasts
>>> than to conquer the human mind.
>>
>>
>
>
hot or cold. However we put a can in my son's 89 xj that has less miles and
had a "nomal" amount of noise and besides less noise he's got just a tad
bit more pressure but again his was not low eather. The can says it takes
"up to 500 miles" to do it's thing. Both xj's seem to be running smoother
under excelleration.
JoBo
"SteveBrady" <steve.brady@(remove this)rogers.com> wrote in message
news:QvednefK5L8kKDDcRVn-3Q@rogers.com...
> How much do you have to put in normally?
> wondering if you saw an increase in oil pressure at al!?
>
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:c6ird.992$CG4.147@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
>>I had a good experience with "RESTORE". The engine on my 96 xj was very
>>noisey. With the engine ideling I poured a can in. Before I got it all in
>>the engine instantly quited down. Unbelievable. It contains microscopic
>>particles that are 40% lead, 60% copper and are bound by silver. Sounds
>>like the same material bearings are made of.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>> "Brian" <b_heller@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:b_heller-D5EED9.22570730112004@news.verizon.net...
>>> I'm curious what y'all think of the various additives to fuel, motor
>>> oil, coolant, etc. Anybody use something they found was good? Bad? I
>>> know many of them are useless. Let's hear about all of 'em.
>>>
>>> B
>>>
>>> --
>>> Brian Heller
>>>
>>> It is easier to tame wild beasts
>>> than to conquer the human mind.
>>
>>
>
>
12-03-2004, 06:08 AM
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: additives?
I can't really tell about oil pressure as it's always in the 40-60 range,
hot or cold. However we put a can in my son's 89 xj that has less miles and
had a "nomal" amount of noise and besides less noise he's got just a tad
bit more pressure but again his was not low eather. The can says it takes
"up to 500 miles" to do it's thing. Both xj's seem to be running smoother
under excelleration.
JoBo
"SteveBrady" <steve.brady@(remove this)rogers.com> wrote in message
news:QvednefK5L8kKDDcRVn-3Q@rogers.com...
> How much do you have to put in normally?
> wondering if you saw an increase in oil pressure at al!?
>
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:c6ird.992$CG4.147@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
>>I had a good experience with "RESTORE". The engine on my 96 xj was very
>>noisey. With the engine ideling I poured a can in. Before I got it all in
>>the engine instantly quited down. Unbelievable. It contains microscopic
>>particles that are 40% lead, 60% copper and are bound by silver. Sounds
>>like the same material bearings are made of.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>> "Brian" <b_heller@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:b_heller-D5EED9.22570730112004@news.verizon.net...
>>> I'm curious what y'all think of the various additives to fuel, motor
>>> oil, coolant, etc. Anybody use something they found was good? Bad? I
>>> know many of them are useless. Let's hear about all of 'em.
>>>
>>> B
>>>
>>> --
>>> Brian Heller
>>>
>>> It is easier to tame wild beasts
>>> than to conquer the human mind.
>>
>>
>
>
hot or cold. However we put a can in my son's 89 xj that has less miles and
had a "nomal" amount of noise and besides less noise he's got just a tad
bit more pressure but again his was not low eather. The can says it takes
"up to 500 miles" to do it's thing. Both xj's seem to be running smoother
under excelleration.
JoBo
"SteveBrady" <steve.brady@(remove this)rogers.com> wrote in message
news:QvednefK5L8kKDDcRVn-3Q@rogers.com...
> How much do you have to put in normally?
> wondering if you saw an increase in oil pressure at al!?
>
>
> "Jo Bo" <jromas@columbus.rr.com> wrote in message
> news:c6ird.992$CG4.147@fe2.columbus.rr.com...
>>I had a good experience with "RESTORE". The engine on my 96 xj was very
>>noisey. With the engine ideling I poured a can in. Before I got it all in
>>the engine instantly quited down. Unbelievable. It contains microscopic
>>particles that are 40% lead, 60% copper and are bound by silver. Sounds
>>like the same material bearings are made of.
>>
>> JoBo
>>
>> "Brian" <b_heller@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:b_heller-D5EED9.22570730112004@news.verizon.net...
>>> I'm curious what y'all think of the various additives to fuel, motor
>>> oil, coolant, etc. Anybody use something they found was good? Bad? I
>>> know many of them are useless. Let's hear about all of 'em.
>>>
>>> B
>>>
>>> --
>>> Brian Heller
>>>
>>> It is easier to tame wild beasts
>>> than to conquer the human mind.
>>
>>
>
>