Hi Mike,

Two quick questions.
1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
handle the voltage increase?

2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
bearings and shaft were on the old one.
Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
wires and it seemed to make no difference.

Thanks again for your advice.
Paul

 

The coil is a one for all that can run on either 12 or 9 volts with a
ballast resistor.

I was told by Accel that with my stock Ford style ignition module, I had
to stay with the ballast wire in my 258 or I would fry the module pretty
fast.

What kind of ignition does yours use? Maybe you can get it to run 12
volts for a real hot spark. ;-)

If the wires coming out of something are both black, then it makes no
matter the order usually.

Yours is a 75 right? My book that was 100% right on for my 86 says you
should have a blue and yellow or maybe a blue and white. The wires
coming out of the distributor should be marked if it matters. Simple
switches sometimes matter, sometimes not.

Mike

Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Two quick questions.
> 1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
> Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
> unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
> handle the voltage increase?
>
> 2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
> bearings and shaft were on the old one.
> Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
> black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
> unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
> new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
> was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
> you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
> wires and it seemed to make no difference.
>
> Thanks again for your advice.
> Paul

 

The coil is a one for all that can run on either 12 or 9 volts with a
ballast resistor.

I was told by Accel that with my stock Ford style ignition module, I had
to stay with the ballast wire in my 258 or I would fry the module pretty
fast.

What kind of ignition does yours use? Maybe you can get it to run 12
volts for a real hot spark. ;-)

If the wires coming out of something are both black, then it makes no
matter the order usually.

Yours is a 75 right? My book that was 100% right on for my 86 says you
should have a blue and yellow or maybe a blue and white. The wires
coming out of the distributor should be marked if it matters. Simple
switches sometimes matter, sometimes not.

Mike

Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Two quick questions.
> 1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
> Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
> unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
> handle the voltage increase?
>
> 2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
> bearings and shaft were on the old one.
> Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
> black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
> unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
> new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
> was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
> you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
> wires and it seemed to make no difference.
>
> Thanks again for your advice.
> Paul

 

The coil is a one for all that can run on either 12 or 9 volts with a
ballast resistor.

I was told by Accel that with my stock Ford style ignition module, I had
to stay with the ballast wire in my 258 or I would fry the module pretty
fast.

What kind of ignition does yours use? Maybe you can get it to run 12
volts for a real hot spark. ;-)

If the wires coming out of something are both black, then it makes no
matter the order usually.

Yours is a 75 right? My book that was 100% right on for my 86 says you
should have a blue and yellow or maybe a blue and white. The wires
coming out of the distributor should be marked if it matters. Simple
switches sometimes matter, sometimes not.

Mike

Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Two quick questions.
> 1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
> Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
> unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
> handle the voltage increase?
>
> 2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
> bearings and shaft were on the old one.
> Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
> black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
> unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
> new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
> was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
> you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
> wires and it seemed to make no difference.
>
> Thanks again for your advice.
> Paul

 

Oh, I am using OEM wires and cap and rotor. They work really well. I
tried the Accel set and they were crap. The cap arced out in a couple
weeks and most of the ends fell off the wires the first time I changed
the plugs...

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The coil is a one for all that can run on either 12 or 9 volts with a
> ballast resistor.
>
> I was told by Accel that with my stock Ford style ignition module, I had
> to stay with the ballast wire in my 258 or I would fry the module pretty
> fast.
>
> What kind of ignition does yours use? Maybe you can get it to run 12
> volts for a real hot spark. ;-)
>
> If the wires coming out of something are both black, then it makes no
> matter the order usually.
>
> Yours is a 75 right? My book that was 100% right on for my 86 says you
> should have a blue and yellow or maybe a blue and white. The wires
> coming out of the distributor should be marked if it matters. Simple
> switches sometimes matter, sometimes not.
>
> Mike
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Two quick questions.
> > 1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
> > Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
> > unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
> > handle the voltage increase?
> >
> > 2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
> > bearings and shaft were on the old one.
> > Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
> > black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
> > unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
> > new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
> > was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
> > you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
> > wires and it seemed to make no difference.
> >
> > Thanks again for your advice.
> > Paul

 

Oh, I am using OEM wires and cap and rotor. They work really well. I
tried the Accel set and they were crap. The cap arced out in a couple
weeks and most of the ends fell off the wires the first time I changed
the plugs...

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The coil is a one for all that can run on either 12 or 9 volts with a
> ballast resistor.
>
> I was told by Accel that with my stock Ford style ignition module, I had
> to stay with the ballast wire in my 258 or I would fry the module pretty
> fast.
>
> What kind of ignition does yours use? Maybe you can get it to run 12
> volts for a real hot spark. ;-)
>
> If the wires coming out of something are both black, then it makes no
> matter the order usually.
>
> Yours is a 75 right? My book that was 100% right on for my 86 says you
> should have a blue and yellow or maybe a blue and white. The wires
> coming out of the distributor should be marked if it matters. Simple
> switches sometimes matter, sometimes not.
>
> Mike
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Two quick questions.
> > 1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
> > Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
> > unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
> > handle the voltage increase?
> >
> > 2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
> > bearings and shaft were on the old one.
> > Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
> > black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
> > unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
> > new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
> > was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
> > you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
> > wires and it seemed to make no difference.
> >
> > Thanks again for your advice.
> > Paul

 

Oh, I am using OEM wires and cap and rotor. They work really well. I
tried the Accel set and they were crap. The cap arced out in a couple
weeks and most of the ends fell off the wires the first time I changed
the plugs...

Mike

Mike Romain wrote:
>
> The coil is a one for all that can run on either 12 or 9 volts with a
> ballast resistor.
>
> I was told by Accel that with my stock Ford style ignition module, I had
> to stay with the ballast wire in my 258 or I would fry the module pretty
> fast.
>
> What kind of ignition does yours use? Maybe you can get it to run 12
> volts for a real hot spark. ;-)
>
> If the wires coming out of something are both black, then it makes no
> matter the order usually.
>
> Yours is a 75 right? My book that was 100% right on for my 86 says you
> should have a blue and yellow or maybe a blue and white. The wires
> coming out of the distributor should be marked if it matters. Simple
> switches sometimes matter, sometimes not.
>
> Mike
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike,
> >
> > Two quick questions.
> > 1. Napa can get me the Accel supercoil. Is there a specific part # I need?
> > Their catalogue seemed to have the 1 fits all type. $ 60.00 50,000 volt
> > unit. Also, I use the NAPA brand D. cap / rotor and wires. Can these
> > handle the voltage increase?
> >
> > 2. My new stock distributor works great! I didn't realize how worn out the
> > bearings and shaft were on the old one.
> > Question: The wiring to the old one was direct wired. I'm referring to the
> > black wire on the distributor with the 2 - 22 gauge wires within. The new
> > unit came with a two wire plug connector. I just cut the plug end off the
> > new unit and just spliced the two wires back together just like the old one
> > was wired. Like I said it's working fine. But, does it matter which wires
> > you have connected together? I tested the old unit by reversing these two
> > wires and it seemed to make no difference.
> >
> > Thanks again for your advice.
> > Paul

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> Oh, I am using OEM wires and cap and rotor. They work really well. I
> tried the Accel set and they were crap. The cap arced out in a couple
> weeks and most of the ends fell off the wires the first time I changed
> the plugs...

I use Bosch wires, cap and rotor.

The wires are nice, they have a metal C clip
that keeps them on real tightly and doesn't deform
when you remove/reinstall plugs.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> Oh, I am using OEM wires and cap and rotor. They work really well. I
> tried the Accel set and they were crap. The cap arced out in a couple
> weeks and most of the ends fell off the wires the first time I changed
> the plugs...

I use Bosch wires, cap and rotor.

The wires are nice, they have a metal C clip
that keeps them on real tightly and doesn't deform
when you remove/reinstall plugs.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors

 

Mike Romain did pass the time by typing:
> Oh, I am using OEM wires and cap and rotor. They work really well. I
> tried the Accel set and they were crap. The cap arced out in a couple
> weeks and most of the ends fell off the wires the first time I changed
> the plugs...

I use Bosch wires, cap and rotor.

The wires are nice, they have a metal C clip
that keeps them on real tightly and doesn't deform
when you remove/reinstall plugs.

--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://members.***.net/wilsond
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors