P0303 and Coolant
11-26-2006, 06:37 PM
#111
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
there is some truth to that and i used to cut the electroid off and gap
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it
does work
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
> would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
> electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
> gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>
> I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles.
> I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life
> between any of them.
>
> My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
> choice of Cavemen everywhere.
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it
does work
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
> would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
> electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
> gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>
> I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles.
> I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life
> between any of them.
>
> My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
> choice of Cavemen everywhere.
11-26-2006, 06:37 PM
#112
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
there is some truth to that and i used to cut the electroid off and gap
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it
does work
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
> would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
> electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
> gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>
> I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles.
> I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life
> between any of them.
>
> My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
> choice of Cavemen everywhere.
them flat acroos the top to expose the spark for a open flame front it
does work
Outatime wrote:
> I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
> would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
> electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
> gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>
> I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of vehicles.
> I've never seen any differenc in either performance or service life
> between any of them.
>
> My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
> choice of Cavemen everywhere.
11-26-2006, 06:49 PM
#113
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Code Scanner
OK, thanks so far to you and Jeff, much appreciated, and I welcome others'
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was
looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the
lowest end model that was there.
So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will
allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It
also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good
or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only
for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles).
I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the
Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list
of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch
Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those
rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now
with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post
below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be
prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or
later this applies to the TJ too.
Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited
abilities?
Tomes
"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net...
> There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
> The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
> is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
> For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about
> idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel
> trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor,
> RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular
> rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure
> everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center.
>
> You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric
> information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is
> valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if
> there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at
> a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
> I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is
> more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped
> that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the
> 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an
> oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the
> EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It
> actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew
> that is a mystery to me.)
>
> Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
> Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
> will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
> button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
> seperate code reader if this will suffice.
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was
looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the
lowest end model that was there.
So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will
allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It
also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good
or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only
for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles).
I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the
Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list
of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch
Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those
rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now
with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post
below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be
prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or
later this applies to the TJ too.
Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited
abilities?
Tomes
"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net...
> There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
> The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
> is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
> For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about
> idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel
> trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor,
> RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular
> rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure
> everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center.
>
> You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric
> information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is
> valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if
> there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at
> a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
> I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is
> more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped
> that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the
> 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an
> oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the
> EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It
> actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew
> that is a mystery to me.)
>
> Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
> Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
> will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
> button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
> seperate code reader if this will suffice.
11-26-2006, 06:49 PM
#114
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Code Scanner
OK, thanks so far to you and Jeff, much appreciated, and I welcome others'
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was
looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the
lowest end model that was there.
So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will
allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It
also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good
or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only
for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles).
I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the
Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list
of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch
Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those
rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now
with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post
below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be
prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or
later this applies to the TJ too.
Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited
abilities?
Tomes
"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net...
> There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
> The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
> is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
> For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about
> idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel
> trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor,
> RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular
> rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure
> everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center.
>
> You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric
> information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is
> valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if
> there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at
> a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
> I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is
> more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped
> that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the
> 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an
> oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the
> EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It
> actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew
> that is a mystery to me.)
>
> Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
> Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
> will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
> button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
> seperate code reader if this will suffice.
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was
looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the
lowest end model that was there.
So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will
allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It
also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good
or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only
for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles).
I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the
Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list
of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch
Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those
rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now
with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post
below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be
prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or
later this applies to the TJ too.
Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited
abilities?
Tomes
"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net...
> There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
> The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
> is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
> For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about
> idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel
> trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor,
> RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular
> rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure
> everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center.
>
> You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric
> information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is
> valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if
> there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at
> a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
> I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is
> more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped
> that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the
> 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an
> oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the
> EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It
> actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew
> that is a mystery to me.)
>
> Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
> Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
> will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
> button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
> seperate code reader if this will suffice.
11-26-2006, 06:49 PM
#115
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Code Scanner
OK, thanks so far to you and Jeff, much appreciated, and I welcome others'
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was
looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the
lowest end model that was there.
So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will
allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It
also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good
or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only
for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles).
I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the
Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list
of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch
Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those
rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now
with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post
below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be
prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or
later this applies to the TJ too.
Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited
abilities?
Tomes
"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net...
> There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
> The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
> is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
> For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about
> idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel
> trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor,
> RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular
> rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure
> everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center.
>
> You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric
> information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is
> valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if
> there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at
> a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
> I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is
> more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped
> that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the
> 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an
> oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the
> EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It
> actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew
> that is a mystery to me.)
>
> Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
> Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
> will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
> button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
> seperate code reader if this will suffice.
opinions on this as well. Looking at their website I am guessing I was
looking at the 9125, but I need to go back and look again. It was the
lowest end model that was there.
So, Outa, if I do get (ask Santa for) the 9145, the added benefits will
allow me to go through all the stuff and find things that are impending. It
also sounds like I will be in the garage every spare minute (is this a good
or a bad thing...) with the toy, I mean tool. this could be good for only
for my 2002 TJ (77K miles), but for the aging 98 Sienna (187K miles).
I am all interested in this now because for the first time I went to the
Autozone and had them read the codes on the CEL-lit Sienna and I had a list
of cylinder malfunctions that I fixed with new wires and those Bosch
Platinum Ir Fusion (they were on sale) plugs (it is not easy to get at those
rear plugs....). Saved a lot of cash by not having to bring it in. Now
with the Sienna at the point where more stuff will be popping up, your post
below is telling me that hunting through all that other stuff would be
prudent and likely save me more money by heading things off. Sooner or
later this applies to the TJ too.
Am I looking at this right or am I being too optimistic in my limited
abilities?
Tomes
"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:VJidnYDema-vm_fYnZ2dnUVZ_q6dnZ2d@softcom.net...
> There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
> The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
> is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
> For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information about
> idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings, fuel
> trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the sensor,
> RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the ever-popular
> rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to make sure
> everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing center.
>
> You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other esoteric
> information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor data is
> valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell if
> there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which one at
> a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
> I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This is
> more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily recouped
> that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes, resetting the
> 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the engine after an
> oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I removed/cleaned the
> EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem afterwards. (It
> actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how the computer knew
> that is a mystery to me.)
>
> Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
> Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
> will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
> button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
> seperate code reader if this will suffice.
11-26-2006, 07:24 PM
#116
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
So it is the old venerable plugs for the old venerable straight 6. How
about that.
Tomes
"Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message
news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga...
>> Outatime wrote:
>> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
>> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
>> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
>> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>> >
>> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of
>> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or
>> > service life between any of them.
>> >
>> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
>> > choice of Cavemen everywhere.
>>
>> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite
>> heavier like large club, work good.
>>
>> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap
>> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion.
>>
> Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85
> Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to
> say
> "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use
> Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design.
> Earle
> take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in
> car
> from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV?
>
> Earle
>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
about that.
Tomes
"Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message
news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga...
>> Outatime wrote:
>> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
>> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
>> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
>> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>> >
>> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of
>> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or
>> > service life between any of them.
>> >
>> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
>> > choice of Cavemen everywhere.
>>
>> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite
>> heavier like large club, work good.
>>
>> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap
>> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion.
>>
> Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85
> Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to
> say
> "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use
> Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design.
> Earle
> take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in
> car
> from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV?
>
> Earle
>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
11-26-2006, 07:24 PM
#117
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
So it is the old venerable plugs for the old venerable straight 6. How
about that.
Tomes
"Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message
news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga...
>> Outatime wrote:
>> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
>> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
>> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
>> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>> >
>> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of
>> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or
>> > service life between any of them.
>> >
>> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
>> > choice of Cavemen everywhere.
>>
>> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite
>> heavier like large club, work good.
>>
>> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap
>> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion.
>>
> Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85
> Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to
> say
> "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use
> Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design.
> Earle
> take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in
> car
> from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV?
>
> Earle
>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
about that.
Tomes
"Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message
news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga...
>> Outatime wrote:
>> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
>> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
>> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
>> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>> >
>> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of
>> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or
>> > service life between any of them.
>> >
>> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
>> > choice of Cavemen everywhere.
>>
>> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite
>> heavier like large club, work good.
>>
>> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap
>> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion.
>>
> Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85
> Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to
> say
> "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use
> Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design.
> Earle
> take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in
> car
> from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV?
>
> Earle
>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
11-26-2006, 07:24 PM
#118
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: P0303 and Coolant - Plug types
So it is the old venerable plugs for the old venerable straight 6. How
about that.
Tomes
"Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message
news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga...
>> Outatime wrote:
>> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
>> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
>> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
>> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>> >
>> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of
>> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or
>> > service life between any of them.
>> >
>> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
>> > choice of Cavemen everywhere.
>>
>> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite
>> heavier like large club, work good.
>>
>> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap
>> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion.
>>
> Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85
> Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to
> say
> "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use
> Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design.
> Earle
> take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in
> car
> from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV?
>
> Earle
>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
about that.
Tomes
"Earle Horton" <el_anglo_burgues@usa.com> wrote in message
news:456a0dd1$0$21205$88260bb3@free.teranews.com.. .
> "DougW" <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote in message
> news:X%nah.33$DF6.3@newsfe24.lga...
>> Outatime wrote:
>> > I once met a guy who was so fanatical about spark plug performance, he
>> > would actually shim each one (indexing) so that the open end of the
>> > electrodes faced the intake valve on each cylinder. He swore that he
>> > gained 10+ hp. from this. I think he's been out in the sun too long.
>> >
>> > I've tried every kind of spark plug ever made on a variety of
>> > vehicles. I've never seen any differenc in either performance or
>> > service life between any of them.
>> >
>> > My preference: Champion Coppers which retail for about $1.39 each, the
>> > choice of Cavemen everywhere.
>>
>> Mongo like Chamipon but like Autolite a bit better. Think Autolite
>> heavier like large club, work good.
>>
>> My belief is that putting in fresh plugs every 4-5k is a cheap
>> way of keeping an eye on the engine for any odd combustion.
>>
> Earle go Chevrolet dealer one time with exact plug specification from '85
> Cavalier Owner's Manual that say AC plugs. First cave man Earle talk to
> say
> "Chevrolet never use AC plugs". Second cave man say "That car use
> Champion", try to give Earle plugs with completely different design.
> Earle
> take Owner's Manual to Autozone, get right plugs, AC, just like come in
> car
> from factory. You cave mans see Earle in TV?
>
> Earle
>
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>
11-26-2006, 11:45 PM
#119
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Code Scanner
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 13:22:38 -0800, Outatime <WhoKnows@here.com>
wrote:
>There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
>The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
>is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
>For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information
>about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings,
>fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the
>sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the
>ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to
>make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing
>center.
The readiness check doesn't test any sensors. It only shows you
whether the non continuous monitors have run.
>
>You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other
>esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor
>data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell
>if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which
>one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
>I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This
>is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily
>recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes,
>resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the
>engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I
>removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem
>afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how
>the computer knew that is a mystery to me.)
>
>Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
>Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
>will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
>button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
>seperate code reader if this will suffice.
wrote:
>There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
>The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
>is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
>For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information
>about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings,
>fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the
>sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the
>ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to
>make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing
>center.
The readiness check doesn't test any sensors. It only shows you
whether the non continuous monitors have run.
>
>You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other
>esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor
>data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell
>if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which
>one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
>I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This
>is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily
>recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes,
>resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the
>engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I
>removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem
>afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how
>the computer knew that is a mystery to me.)
>
>Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
>Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
>will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
>button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
>seperate code reader if this will suffice.
11-26-2006, 11:45 PM
#120
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Code Scanner
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 13:22:38 -0800, Outatime <WhoKnows@here.com>
wrote:
>There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
>The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
>is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
>For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information
>about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings,
>fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the
>sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the
>ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to
>make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing
>center.
The readiness check doesn't test any sensors. It only shows you
whether the non continuous monitors have run.
>
>You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other
>esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor
>data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell
>if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which
>one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
>I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This
>is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily
>recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes,
>resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the
>engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I
>removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem
>afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how
>the computer knew that is a mystery to me.)
>
>Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
>Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
>will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
>button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
>seperate code reader if this will suffice.
wrote:
>There is a big difference between a code SCANNER and a code READER.
>
>The $79 cheapies you see at Pep Boys are readers. If all you want to do
>is retrieve numeric codes and reset the MIL, this is fine.
>
>For another $100-150 more, a code SCANNER will give you information
>about idle speed, IAT temp, real-time TPS voltage, O2 voltate readings,
>fuel trim percentages (long and short term), exact coolant temp at the
>sensor, RPM variations, cylinder power balances, and my favorite: the
>ever-popular rediness check, which tests every input/output sensor to
>make sure everything is in-spec before visting the smog-check testing
>center.
The readiness check doesn't test any sensors. It only shows you
whether the non continuous monitors have run.
>
>You can spend more if you need transmission diagnostics and other
>esoteric information. I don't need all of that stuff, but the O2 sensor
>data is valuable to me: I can look at each sensor's performance and tell
>if there's a pending problem, or if one has failed, know EXACTLY which
>one at a glance without having to look anything up in a manual.
>
>I settled on an Actron 9145 code scanner for about $180 on sale. This
>is more than most shadetree mechanics will ever need. I've easily
>recouped that cost in the last few years by reading my own codes,
>resetting the 'crank sensor out of spec' when I unplug it to prime the
>engine after an oil/filter change, and the one infamous time when I
>removed/cleaned the EGR valve and had a serious out-of-spec idle problem
>afterwards. (It actually said the EGR valve gasket was leaking - how
>the computer knew that is a mystery to me.)
>
>Either way, a code scanner/reader is a very good investment.
>
>Incidentally, if all you want is codes, newer Chrysler and Jeep products
>will display this on the odometer display by pressing the odometer reset
>button while turning the key to the RUN position --no need to buy a
>seperate code reader if this will suffice.
