Endo

No strange noises so far. Seems like this is only a problem when the A/C is
on and i'm idling in park or moving at very slow speeds. I can and have
cooled it down by increasing RPMs while sitting still in park. It has been
the hottest it's been here all summer recently. It's been 85F or higher and
while I know that's nothing compared to Arizona or Florida it is damn hot to
us temperate climate people.

I'm curious to the reason DC doesn't like the water wetter. I never heard
anyone refer to it before.

And yes I am staying a far and wide path around the Dex-Cool stuff. I used
that once on a car and regretted it dearly. I might as well have filled the
f-ing thing with battery acid for all the damage it caused. My '99 Merc.
Cougar came factory with it, so I left it alone. Maybe thats the key,
unless it's put in at the factory never try to use it.

And yes I usually run 50%, but with the color of it now i'm worried it may
be a lot higher percentage of antifreeze than water. Hose water is good to
flush with but does anyone prefer distilled water to fill with?

Oh, and lastly I wonder if I have a sticking thermostat or maybe a bad
radiator cap? I heard one noise that I think was the rad. cap letting go
when it overheated once...

Shawn


"BillyRay" <jpbSPAM357@junoSPAM.com> wrote in message
news:e0a45$42db19a6$4831337f$17188@FUSE.NET...
> What about a possible water pump problem Bill? He did not mention any
> unusual noise but that doesn't always happen.
>
> I would (and did) install one of those $3.99 Flush-N-Fill Kits in the
> heater hose. It is remarkable how much junk it can flush out of a
> motor/radiator.
>
> I would skip the water wetter. DC advises against it.
>
> Make sure you get old fashioned 'American Green" or Zerex G-05 antifreeze
> and not the Texaco-GM "Dex-Cool" based formula which have a reputation for
> clogging and eating radiators metals.
>
> The concentration should be 50-60% antifreeze in your area. Less offers
> little corrosion protection.
>
>
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42DB0CC4.DFD370D1@***.net...
>> Get the thermo activated clutch, the centrifugal saves gas, but
>> will over heat at high revolutions per minute, below forty miles an
>> hours like we do in the lower gears off road.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>> End wrote:
>>>
>>> The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to
>>> be
>>> safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice
>>> and
>>> green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get
>>> a
>>> bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
>>>
>>> I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now
>>> anyway.
>>> Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so
>>> i'm
>>> going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
>>>
>>> Shawn
>>>
>>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>> news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
>>> > Hi Endo,
>>> > I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
>>> > the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and
>>> > core
>>> > plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
>>> > The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
>>> > up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
>>> > water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
>>> > caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
>>> > three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer
>>> > package
>>> > also have oil coolers.
>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>> >
>>> > Endo wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the
>>> >> new
>>> >> Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
>>> >> jumped
>>> >> up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did
>>> >> a
>>> >> quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get
>>> >> some
>>> >> air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
>>> >> higher
>>> >> than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on
>>> >> still.
>>> >> Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I
>>> >> noticed
>>> >> another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure
>>> >> would
>>> >> dive
>>> >> down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down
>>> >> for
>>> >> good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
>>> >> more
>>> >> times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on.
>>> >> The
>>> >> oil
>>> >> level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
>>> >> topped
>>> >> off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
>>> >>
>>> >> Any theories for this happening?
>>> >>
>>> >> Shawn
>
>

Jerry Bransford

There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
temperature.

On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
the engine.

Jerry

Endo wrote:
> The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to be
> safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice and
> green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get a
> bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
>
> I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now anyway.
> Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so i'm
> going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
>
> Shawn
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
>
>>Hi Endo,
>> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
>>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
>>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
>> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
>>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
>>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
>>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
>>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
>>also have oil coolers.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Endo wrote:
>>
>>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the new
>>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
>>>jumped
>>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
>>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get some
>>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
>>>higher
>>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
>>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
>>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
>>>dive
>>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down for
>>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
>>>more
>>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
>>>oil
>>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
>>>topped
>>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
>>>
>>>Any theories for this happening?
>>>
>>>Shawn
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
temperature.

On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
the engine.

Jerry

Endo wrote:
> The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to be
> safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice and
> green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get a
> bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
>
> I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now anyway.
> Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so i'm
> going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
>
> Shawn
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
>
>>Hi Endo,
>> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
>>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
>>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
>> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
>>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
>>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
>>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
>>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
>>also have oil coolers.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Endo wrote:
>>
>>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the new
>>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
>>>jumped
>>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
>>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get some
>>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
>>>higher
>>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
>>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
>>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
>>>dive
>>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down for
>>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
>>>more
>>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
>>>oil
>>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
>>>topped
>>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
>>>
>>>Any theories for this happening?
>>>
>>>Shawn
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
temperature.

On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
the engine.

Jerry

Endo wrote:
> The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to be
> safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice and
> green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get a
> bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
>
> I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now anyway.
> Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so i'm
> going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
>
> Shawn
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
>
>>Hi Endo,
>> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
>>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
>>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
>> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
>>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
>>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
>>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
>>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
>>also have oil coolers.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Endo wrote:
>>
>>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the new
>>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
>>>jumped
>>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
>>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get some
>>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
>>>higher
>>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
>>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
>>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
>>>dive
>>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down for
>>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
>>>more
>>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
>>>oil
>>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
>>>topped
>>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
>>>
>>>Any theories for this happening?
>>>
>>>Shawn
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Jerry Bransford

There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
temperature.

On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
the engine.

Jerry

Endo wrote:
> The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to be
> safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice and
> green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get a
> bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
>
> I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now anyway.
> Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so i'm
> going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
>
> Shawn
>
>
> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
>
>>Hi Endo,
>> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
>>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
>>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
>> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
>>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
>>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
>>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
>>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
>>also have oil coolers.
>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>
>>Endo wrote:
>>
>>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the new
>>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
>>>jumped
>>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
>>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get some
>>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
>>>higher
>>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
>>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
>>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
>>>dive
>>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down for
>>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
>>>more
>>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
>>>oil
>>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
>>>topped
>>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
>>>
>>>Any theories for this happening?
>>>
>>>Shawn
>
>
>

--
Jerry Bransford
PP-ASEL N6TAY
See the Geezer Jeep at
http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Dave Milne

The dealers here use Mobil 1 0W-40.
I don't think I have ever seen a 10W-30 on the shelves; 10W-40 is the norm.

Dave Milne, Scotland

"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:XFFCe.13419$Eo.9099@fed1read04...
> There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
> recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
> 50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
> pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
> the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
> up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
> cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
> wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
> 5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
> is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
> temperature.
>
> On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
> The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
> the engine.
>
> Jerry
>
> Endo wrote:
> > The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to
be
> > safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice
and
> > green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get
a
> > bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
> >
> > I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now
anyway.
> > Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so
i'm
> > going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
> >
> >>Hi Endo,
> >> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
> >>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
> >>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
> >> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
> >>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
> >>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
> >>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
> >>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
> >>also have oil coolers.
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Endo wrote:
> >>
> >>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the
new
> >>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
> >>>jumped
> >>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
> >>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get
some
> >>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
> >>>higher
> >>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
> >>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
> >>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
> >>>dive
> >>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down
for
> >>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
> >>>more
> >>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
> >>>oil
> >>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
> >>>topped
> >>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
> >>>
> >>>Any theories for this happening?
> >>>
> >>>Shawn
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Dave Milne

The dealers here use Mobil 1 0W-40.
I don't think I have ever seen a 10W-30 on the shelves; 10W-40 is the norm.

Dave Milne, Scotland

"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:XFFCe.13419$Eo.9099@fed1read04...
> There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
> recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
> 50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
> pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
> the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
> up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
> cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
> wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
> 5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
> is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
> temperature.
>
> On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
> The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
> the engine.
>
> Jerry
>
> Endo wrote:
> > The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to
be
> > safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice
and
> > green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get
a
> > bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
> >
> > I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now
anyway.
> > Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so
i'm
> > going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
> >
> >>Hi Endo,
> >> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
> >>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
> >>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
> >> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
> >>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
> >>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
> >>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
> >>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
> >>also have oil coolers.
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Endo wrote:
> >>
> >>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the
new
> >>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
> >>>jumped
> >>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
> >>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get
some
> >>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
> >>>higher
> >>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
> >>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
> >>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
> >>>dive
> >>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down
for
> >>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
> >>>more
> >>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
> >>>oil
> >>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
> >>>topped
> >>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
> >>>
> >>>Any theories for this happening?
> >>>
> >>>Shawn
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Dave Milne

The dealers here use Mobil 1 0W-40.
I don't think I have ever seen a 10W-30 on the shelves; 10W-40 is the norm.

Dave Milne, Scotland

"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:XFFCe.13419$Eo.9099@fed1read04...
> There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
> recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
> 50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
> pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
> the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
> up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
> cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
> wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
> 5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
> is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
> temperature.
>
> On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
> The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
> the engine.
>
> Jerry
>
> Endo wrote:
> > The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to
be
> > safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice
and
> > green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get
a
> > bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
> >
> > I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now
anyway.
> > Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so
i'm
> > going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
> >
> >>Hi Endo,
> >> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
> >>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
> >>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
> >> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
> >>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
> >>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
> >>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
> >>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
> >>also have oil coolers.
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Endo wrote:
> >>
> >>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the
new
> >>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
> >>>jumped
> >>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
> >>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get
some
> >>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
> >>>higher
> >>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
> >>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
> >>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
> >>>dive
> >>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down
for
> >>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
> >>>more
> >>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
> >>>oil
> >>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
> >>>topped
> >>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
> >>>
> >>>Any theories for this happening?
> >>>
> >>>Shawn
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Dave Milne

The dealers here use Mobil 1 0W-40.
I don't think I have ever seen a 10W-30 on the shelves; 10W-40 is the norm.

Dave Milne, Scotland

"Jerry Bransford" <jerrypb@***.net> wrote in message
news:XFFCe.13419$Eo.9099@fed1read04...
> There's no way I'd ever switch away from the '97 TJ's factory
> recommended 10W-30 to anything as heavy as 20W-40 or 20W-50. The 40 and
> 50 viscosities those operate at when warmed up are more difficult to
> pump through the engine's oil journals than is necessary and just makes
> the oil pump work harder. Plus the 20W viscosity it is before it warms
> up is harder to get pumped into the engine when it's cold which can
> cause reduced lubrication at startup, which is where much of an engine's
> wear comes from. Leading oil manufacturers are now even recommending
> 5W-30 over 10W-30 since it gets into the engine faster at startup yet it
> is still a good 30 weight viscosity when it gets up to normal operating
> temperature.
>
> On your coolant and water mixture, it should be no stronger than 50:50.
> The more antifreeze used, the less efficient the mixture is at cooling
> the engine.
>
> Jerry
>
> Endo wrote:
> > The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just to
be
> > safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice
and
> > green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will get
a
> > bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
> >
> > I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now
anyway.
> > Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so
i'm
> > going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
> >
> > Shawn
> >
> >
> > "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
> > news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
> >
> >>Hi Endo,
> >> I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
> >>the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and core
> >>plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
> >> The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
> >>up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy of
> >>water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to get
> >>caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
> >>three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer package
> >>also have oil coolers.
> >> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >>mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >>
> >>Endo wrote:
> >>
> >>>I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at the
new
> >>>Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
> >>>jumped
> >>>up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I did a
> >>>quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get
some
> >>>air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
> >>>higher
> >>>than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on still.
> >>>Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I noticed
> >>>another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure would
> >>>dive
> >>>down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down
for
> >>>good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a few
> >>>more
> >>>times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on. The
> >>>oil
> >>>level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant is
> >>>topped
> >>>off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
> >>>
> >>>Any theories for this happening?
> >>>
> >>>Shawn
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Jerry Bransford
> PP-ASEL N6TAY
> See the Geezer Jeep at
> http://members.***.net/jerrypb/

Billy Ray

Sounds like the pump is turning then but the problem was there wasn't enough
air flowing through the radiator. The Ohio Valley weather isn't always fun,
it may be only 85 degrees but the humidity is also 85 percent.

I assume that DC doesn't like the additives as there is an increased
possibility of unintended chemical interactions whenever you start dumping
stuff into a complex piece of machinery. They say it isn't needed.

With the new antifreezes you have to use distilled water to get the greater
benefit. I just flushed my WJ and I thought it was worth 79 cents/gallon
for the distilled water. I got the "new" DC approved antifreeze (Zerex
G-05) and was only able to find it at Pep Boys which is across town (in
Cincinnati). It is NOT available at Auto-Zone, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA,
Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Target, or Meijer. They carry Prestone or Peak. Zerex
G-05 is about the same price as "American Green", I paid $9.99/gal

I've not looked into any prices but my WJ has an electric fan that is
temperature controlled.

Thermostats and radiator caps are cheap. If I was having problems I would
replace them as a matter of course.

As far as oil is concerned I am a great believer in the synthetics and
synthetic blends. They flow more easily, clean better, increase mileage,
and decrease emissions. They sometimes cause a drop in oil pressure because
greater fluidity (reciprocal of viscosity), they flow so much easier than
Dino oil. (You will recall that an oil pressure gauge measures the
resistance to flow coming out of the pump). I run 10w-30 in the WJ (and
5w-30 in the Audi) but have no philosophical problems with using a slightly
heavier multi-grade oil. I used Rotella-T 15w-40 or Pennzoil 20w-50 for
many years and would not expect any problems in an 8 year old vehicle. I
will cause your gasoline mileage to drop.




"Endo" <me@oh.my> wrote in message
news:L_2dnTUWOvYQgUbfRVn-ig@comcast.com...
> No strange noises so far. Seems like this is only a problem when the A/C
> is on and i'm idling in park or moving at very slow speeds. I can and
> have cooled it down by increasing RPMs while sitting still in park. It
> has been the hottest it's been here all summer recently. It's been 85F or
> higher and while I know that's nothing compared to Arizona or Florida it
> is damn hot to us temperate climate people.
>
> I'm curious to the reason DC doesn't like the water wetter. I never heard
> anyone refer to it before.
>
> And yes I am staying a far and wide path around the Dex-Cool stuff. I
> used that once on a car and regretted it dearly. I might as well have
> filled the f-ing thing with battery acid for all the damage it caused. My
> '99 Merc. Cougar came factory with it, so I left it alone. Maybe thats
> the key, unless it's put in at the factory never try to use it.
>
> And yes I usually run 50%, but with the color of it now i'm worried it may
> be a lot higher percentage of antifreeze than water. Hose water is good
> to flush with but does anyone prefer distilled water to fill with?
>
> Oh, and lastly I wonder if I have a sticking thermostat or maybe a bad
> radiator cap? I heard one noise that I think was the rad. cap letting go
> when it overheated once...
>
> Shawn
>
>
> "BillyRay" <jpbSPAM357@junoSPAM.com> wrote in message
> news:e0a45$42db19a6$4831337f$17188@FUSE.NET...
>> What about a possible water pump problem Bill? He did not mention any
>> unusual noise but that doesn't always happen.
>>
>> I would (and did) install one of those $3.99 Flush-N-Fill Kits in the
>> heater hose. It is remarkable how much junk it can flush out of a
>> motor/radiator.
>>
>> I would skip the water wetter. DC advises against it.
>>
>> Make sure you get old fashioned 'American Green" or Zerex G-05
>> antifreeze and not the Texaco-GM "Dex-Cool" based formula which have a
>> reputation for clogging and eating radiators metals.
>>
>> The concentration should be 50-60% antifreeze in your area. Less offers
>> little corrosion protection.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>> news:42DB0CC4.DFD370D1@***.net...
>>> Get the thermo activated clutch, the centrifugal saves gas, but
>>> will over heat at high revolutions per minute, below forty miles an
>>> hours like we do in the lower gears off road.
>>> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>
>>> End wrote:
>>>>
>>>> The fan clutch sounds probable, and I will probably flush it too just
>>>> to be
>>>> safe but the antifreeze in it is only about a year old and still nice
>>>> and
>>>> green. Maybe it's too strong a mixture and I need more water.I will
>>>> get a
>>>> bottle of the Redline Water Wetter too just to help out.
>>>>
>>>> I will consider a heavier weight oil also, i'm due for a change now
>>>> anyway.
>>>> Too bad Wally-World only carries Valvoline full synthetic in 10w30 so
>>>> i'm
>>>> going to have to go to a 'real' parts store like Auto Zone. (sic)
>>>>
>>>> Shawn
>>>>
>>>> "L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:42DABA77.A58128D2@***.net...
>>>> > Hi Endo,
>>>> > I'd flush your system like you've doing every two years to avoid
>>>> > the electrolysis that'll eat the head gasket, water pump seal, and
>>>> > core
>>>> > plugs. And go ahead and replace the fan clutch.
>>>> > The oil temperature lags behind the water, but eventually catches
>>>> > up, if you had checked it you would have seen it with the constancy
>>>> > of
>>>> > water, with about the same lubricating qualities. If your going to
>>>> > get
>>>> > caught in traffic jams, then switch to 20/40, or 20/50 like I use at
>>>> > three hundred thousand miles. Remember pickups with the trailer
>>>> > package
>>>> > also have oil coolers.
>>>> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
>>>> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>>>> >
>>>> > Endo wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I was idling in traffic on the 4th waiting to get into parking at
>>>> >> the new
>>>> >> Heinz Field in Pittsburgh for fireworks and all of a sudden my temp
>>>> >> jumped
>>>> >> up to just below the red and the 'check gauges' light came on. I
>>>> >> did a
>>>> >> quick u=turn and got into a non-congested lane and got moving to get
>>>> >> some
>>>> >> air flowing and it calmed down to a little over 210, but just a hair
>>>> >> higher
>>>> >> than usual. I was running the a/c on max since i had the top on
>>>> >> still.
>>>> >> Shortly after it cooled back down to a more reasonable level I
>>>> >> noticed
>>>> >> another strange problem....when I came to a stop the oil pressure
>>>> >> would
>>>> >> dive
>>>> >> down to zero and the light would come on again. Once it cooled down
>>>> >> for
>>>> >> good after parking for awhile this went away too. It's done it a
>>>> >> few
>>>> >> more
>>>> >> times since and it's usually during slow driving with the a/c on.
>>>> >> The
>>>> >> oil
>>>> >> level seems fine and it's Valvoline full synthetic 10w30. Coolant
>>>> >> is
>>>> >> topped
>>>> >> off and is a nice green color, not nasty stuff.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Any theories for this happening?
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Shawn
>>
>>
>
>