If he had a bad head gasket though, wouldn't he have oil and coolant mixed
in either the crankcase or the radiator, or both?





"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4027A73F.FC2A6C97@sympatico.ca...
> If a 160 is the only way yo keep the temp down, I would guess you have a
> blown head gasket.
>
> I would try heating it up with the rad cap off and watch for many tiny
> bubbles and smoke coming out the hole or a major explosion of fluid when
> the t-stat opens.
>
> On some, once the thermostat has opened you can put your hand over the
> opening and feel the puffs of compression.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> brad smith wrote:
> >
> > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> >
> > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > look for?
> >
> > Thanks for looking
> > Brad
> >
> > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > 95,000 miles.

 

Not necessarily.

I had exhaust chugging into my rad when it got hot and never really
noticed it losing fluid until it got really hot and burped out.

I had millions of tiny bubbles in the fluid, it looked like dish soap
and foamed over the top when heated up with the cap off.

I think the hole was small enough to need firing stroke pressure to pass
gas through.

I have seen this on other vehicles too.

I would be checking on the pump too like you say, but he mentions he has
already changed it.

Guess we should ask if he changed it before the trouble or after eh?

Mike

CRWLR wrote:
>
> If he had a bad head gasket though, wouldn't he have oil and coolant mixed
> in either the crankcase or the radiator, or both?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4027A73F.FC2A6C97@sympatico.ca...
> > If a 160 is the only way yo keep the temp down, I would guess you have a
> > blown head gasket.
> >
> > I would try heating it up with the rad cap off and watch for many tiny
> > bubbles and smoke coming out the hole or a major explosion of fluid when
> > the t-stat opens.
> >
> > On some, once the thermostat has opened you can put your hand over the
> > opening and feel the puffs of compression.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > brad smith wrote:
> > >
> > > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> > >
> > > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> > >
> > > Thoughts?
> > >
> > > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > > look for?
> > >
> > > Thanks for looking
> > > Brad
> > >
> > > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > > 95,000 miles.

 

Not necessarily.

I had exhaust chugging into my rad when it got hot and never really
noticed it losing fluid until it got really hot and burped out.

I had millions of tiny bubbles in the fluid, it looked like dish soap
and foamed over the top when heated up with the cap off.

I think the hole was small enough to need firing stroke pressure to pass
gas through.

I have seen this on other vehicles too.

I would be checking on the pump too like you say, but he mentions he has
already changed it.

Guess we should ask if he changed it before the trouble or after eh?

Mike

CRWLR wrote:
>
> If he had a bad head gasket though, wouldn't he have oil and coolant mixed
> in either the crankcase or the radiator, or both?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4027A73F.FC2A6C97@sympatico.ca...
> > If a 160 is the only way yo keep the temp down, I would guess you have a
> > blown head gasket.
> >
> > I would try heating it up with the rad cap off and watch for many tiny
> > bubbles and smoke coming out the hole or a major explosion of fluid when
> > the t-stat opens.
> >
> > On some, once the thermostat has opened you can put your hand over the
> > opening and feel the puffs of compression.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > brad smith wrote:
> > >
> > > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> > >
> > > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> > >
> > > Thoughts?
> > >
> > > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > > look for?
> > >
> > > Thanks for looking
> > > Brad
> > >
> > > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > > 95,000 miles.

 

Not necessarily.

I had exhaust chugging into my rad when it got hot and never really
noticed it losing fluid until it got really hot and burped out.

I had millions of tiny bubbles in the fluid, it looked like dish soap
and foamed over the top when heated up with the cap off.

I think the hole was small enough to need firing stroke pressure to pass
gas through.

I have seen this on other vehicles too.

I would be checking on the pump too like you say, but he mentions he has
already changed it.

Guess we should ask if he changed it before the trouble or after eh?

Mike

CRWLR wrote:
>
> If he had a bad head gasket though, wouldn't he have oil and coolant mixed
> in either the crankcase or the radiator, or both?
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4027A73F.FC2A6C97@sympatico.ca...
> > If a 160 is the only way yo keep the temp down, I would guess you have a
> > blown head gasket.
> >
> > I would try heating it up with the rad cap off and watch for many tiny
> > bubbles and smoke coming out the hole or a major explosion of fluid when
> > the t-stat opens.
> >
> > On some, once the thermostat has opened you can put your hand over the
> > opening and feel the puffs of compression.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> > brad smith wrote:
> > >
> > > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> > >
> > > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> > >
> > > Thoughts?
> > >
> > > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > > look for?
> > >
> > > Thanks for looking
> > > Brad
> > >
> > > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > > 95,000 miles.

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4027E294.D2FC8F59@sympatico.ca...
> Not necessarily.
>
> I had exhaust chugging into my rad when it got hot and never really
> noticed it losing fluid until it got really hot and burped out.
>
> I had millions of tiny bubbles in the fluid, it looked like dish soap
> and foamed over the top when heated up with the cap off.
>
> I think the hole was small enough to need firing stroke pressure to pass
> gas through.
>
> I have seen this on other vehicles too.
>
> I would be checking on the pump too like you say, but he mentions he has
> already changed it.
>
> Guess we should ask if he changed it before the trouble or after eh?
>
> Mike
>

Yeah, that's true. It is always good to understand if the problems began
before or after the last repair project.

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4027E294.D2FC8F59@sympatico.ca...
> Not necessarily.
>
> I had exhaust chugging into my rad when it got hot and never really
> noticed it losing fluid until it got really hot and burped out.
>
> I had millions of tiny bubbles in the fluid, it looked like dish soap
> and foamed over the top when heated up with the cap off.
>
> I think the hole was small enough to need firing stroke pressure to pass
> gas through.
>
> I have seen this on other vehicles too.
>
> I would be checking on the pump too like you say, but he mentions he has
> already changed it.
>
> Guess we should ask if he changed it before the trouble or after eh?
>
> Mike
>

Yeah, that's true. It is always good to understand if the problems began
before or after the last repair project.

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4027E294.D2FC8F59@sympatico.ca...
> Not necessarily.
>
> I had exhaust chugging into my rad when it got hot and never really
> noticed it losing fluid until it got really hot and burped out.
>
> I had millions of tiny bubbles in the fluid, it looked like dish soap
> and foamed over the top when heated up with the cap off.
>
> I think the hole was small enough to need firing stroke pressure to pass
> gas through.
>
> I have seen this on other vehicles too.
>
> I would be checking on the pump too like you say, but he mentions he has
> already changed it.
>
> Guess we should ask if he changed it before the trouble or after eh?
>
> Mike
>

Yeah, that's true. It is always good to understand if the problems began
before or after the last repair project.

 

I went three for three boxed incorrectly out of Pep Boys, helping
my brother-in-law.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

CRWLR wrote:
>
> You have to be sure that you have the right waterpump.
>
> There is a version for the Vbelt and another version for the serpentine
> belt. They spin backwards from each other. If yo have a serpentine belt
> conversion, but use the vbelt water pump, or vice versa, the impeller on the
> pump will be reversed and the coolant will not flow very well.
>
> You could also have a stuck tstat.
>
> "brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
> news:5%DVb.30285$2h.25705@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> >
> > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > look for?
> >
> > Thanks for looking
> > Brad
> >
> > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > 95,000 miles.
> >
> >

 

I went three for three boxed incorrectly out of Pep Boys, helping
my brother-in-law.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

CRWLR wrote:
>
> You have to be sure that you have the right waterpump.
>
> There is a version for the Vbelt and another version for the serpentine
> belt. They spin backwards from each other. If yo have a serpentine belt
> conversion, but use the vbelt water pump, or vice versa, the impeller on the
> pump will be reversed and the coolant will not flow very well.
>
> You could also have a stuck tstat.
>
> "brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
> news:5%DVb.30285$2h.25705@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> >
> > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > look for?
> >
> > Thanks for looking
> > Brad
> >
> > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > 95,000 miles.
> >
> >

 

I went three for three boxed incorrectly out of Pep Boys, helping
my brother-in-law.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

CRWLR wrote:
>
> You have to be sure that you have the right waterpump.
>
> There is a version for the Vbelt and another version for the serpentine
> belt. They spin backwards from each other. If yo have a serpentine belt
> conversion, but use the vbelt water pump, or vice versa, the impeller on the
> pump will be reversed and the coolant will not flow very well.
>
> You could also have a stuck tstat.
>
> "brad smith" <bradley_k_smith@hotmaill.com> wrote in message
> news:5%DVb.30285$2h.25705@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > My 4.2 in my '81 CJ-7 is running hot. According to my Temp gauge
> > it is always running at the very end of the green band in the
> > winter and last summer was on the H line. After driving it I can
> > hear the coolant bubbling in the system and the radiator cap will
> > have it's vent popped. I have replaced the water pump, fan
> > clutch, hoses, temperature sending unit, temperature gauge in
> > spedo cluster, 15# radiator cap, thermostat housing, thermostat
> > (using 160 now, only way to "keep it in the green") and had
> > radiator steam cleaned. It still seams to be running hot even in
> > Kansas City's 20-30 F weather we are having now. I don't see any
> > coolant in the oil and there doesn't seem to be any burn off.
> >
> > I did have to run a wire direct from the sending unit to the
> > gauge - my Painless harness has a break in the temp wire (not
> > that it matters). I do not have a fan shroud. I have run out of
> > things to replace and I am still running hot. My only thoughts
> > are that my aftermarket products are causing to much heat in the
> > combustion chamber or to much carbon build-up inside the engine.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Also - I am planning on the 4.0 head swap in the near future -
> > any suggestions on where to get a head and what casting I should
> > look for?
> >
> > Thanks for looking
> > Brad
> >
> > P.S. 258 w/ Holley 2bbl 500cfm carb, Clifford intake, headman
> > headers, GM HEI distributor, stock heat range spark plugs, aprox
> > 95,000 miles.
> >
> >