wkearney99

> Bill's idea of a lift is a good idea. In addition to his link they are
also
> available from harbor freight starting as low as $960

Harbor Freight stuff is crap. I'd NEVER risk putting anything of value up
on a lift from them. It's one thing to buy a throw-away tool or two from
HF, but permanent stuff like lifts should be of MUCH better quality.

wkearney99

> Bill's idea of a lift is a good idea. In addition to his link they are
also
> available from harbor freight starting as low as $960

Harbor Freight stuff is crap. I'd NEVER risk putting anything of value up
on a lift from them. It's one thing to buy a throw-away tool or two from
HF, but permanent stuff like lifts should be of MUCH better quality.

Will Honea

On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 03:32:43 UTC "Pi-Eyed Piper" <asd@asd.com> wrote:

> So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated, etc...
>
> Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add on,
> leave out?
>
> Any ideas are appreciated!

So far, everyone has left out at least on essential: multiple well
mounted fire extinguishers. Not the toy ones, real extinguishers.
Ask you local fire department for recommendations. If you finish the
walls, be sure you get fire rated sheetrock. If it's an attached
garage check local codes - they will probably specify the fire rating
for the joining walls. Run a phone line.

You might also consider running at least one cross beam sturdy enough
to handle a hoist (additional support posts on the ends.

Hey, give us time - we can make this thing match your house mortage if
we try <g>.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 03:32:43 UTC "Pi-Eyed Piper" <asd@asd.com> wrote:

> So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated, etc...
>
> Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add on,
> leave out?
>
> Any ideas are appreciated!

So far, everyone has left out at least on essential: multiple well
mounted fire extinguishers. Not the toy ones, real extinguishers.
Ask you local fire department for recommendations. If you finish the
walls, be sure you get fire rated sheetrock. If it's an attached
garage check local codes - they will probably specify the fire rating
for the joining walls. Run a phone line.

You might also consider running at least one cross beam sturdy enough
to handle a hoist (additional support posts on the ends.

Hey, give us time - we can make this thing match your house mortage if
we try <g>.

--
Will Honea

Will Honea

On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 03:32:43 UTC "Pi-Eyed Piper" <asd@asd.com> wrote:

> So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated, etc...
>
> Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add on,
> leave out?
>
> Any ideas are appreciated!

So far, everyone has left out at least on essential: multiple well
mounted fire extinguishers. Not the toy ones, real extinguishers.
Ask you local fire department for recommendations. If you finish the
walls, be sure you get fire rated sheetrock. If it's an attached
garage check local codes - they will probably specify the fire rating
for the joining walls. Run a phone line.

You might also consider running at least one cross beam sturdy enough
to handle a hoist (additional support posts on the ends.

Hey, give us time - we can make this thing match your house mortage if
we try <g>.

--
Will Honea

RoyJ

I always use double outlet box in the shop and garage, 2 different
circuits. Lets me run the shop vac with another tool and not blow the
breaker.

Mike Romain wrote:
> One thing I prefer to do with each power outlet is to make the top and
> bottom sockets on different fuses/breakers. That way I can run 2 power
> tools off the one plug-in without worrying about blowing breakers. I do
> this for kitchens too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>
>>You have gotten a lot of good suggestions. My opinion FWIW..
>>
>>You can never have enough electric outlets (120v and 220v) and lighting. Get
>>'commercial' grade fluorescent fixtures. They will cost an additional $10
>>apiece but you get real ballasts and an extra 20-25% light output. Be sure
>>to 'ground fault' all the 120v outlets. You only need a GFI in the 1st
>>outlet in the electric run and it will cover the rest. Call your local
>>building department to see how many outlets you can have after the first.
>>In my area it is six per circuit.
>>
>>Get the largest circuit panel you can a you can never have enough empty
>>slots. I just upgraded my parents 4 circuit fuse box to a 40 circuit
>>breaker panel and used up 30.
>>
>>Work benches are easily built out of common materials. Go out of your way
>>to make then sturdy as you will regularly be abusing them.
>>
>>Secure wall storage is easily built, extremely easy if you don't drywall the
>>walls but easy none the less. Anyone can install drywall with common
>>tools... it does take a bit of experience to do the finish work but most
>>garages are limited to the first tape stage. Paint the walls with gloss
>>white paint. The gloss will make it easy to maintain and the white will
>>brighten the shop.
>>
>>A half bath would be nice and your bride would probably appreciate if you
>>added a freestanding shower unit so you aren't tracking the typical Jeep
>>filth into 'her' house. To save some cash just rough in the 2" drain lines
>>before you pour the floor.
>>
>>Concerning the floor you want a steel trowel finish and after the cement has
>>properly 'aged' coat it with epoxy floor paint. It will cost about $25 per
>>100 sq ft but is well worth it as it is indestructible. The epoxy floor of
>>our local firehouse was done in 1963 and with the exception of some fading
>>near the glass doors is in excellent condition. Pick a lighter color. It
>>will show more dirt but will brighten the garage.
>>
>>Before you install the walls and ceiling you can run piping for your
>>compressor. Copper water pipe is plenty strong and you can sweat the
>>connection together easily and then convert to NPT fittings and quick
>>connects. As for compressors the larger the better and you can tuck it away
>>somewhere so you can insulate against the sound. You can extend the tank
>>drain petcock to a convenient spot like just above the sink or floor drain.
>>
>>If you are really ambitious you can build yourself a mini grease pit to
>>eliminate much of the need for jacks and safety stands. You can build it so
>>a sturdy lumber floor can be installed when not needed.
>>
>>Bill's idea of a lift is a good idea. In addition to his link they are also
>>available from harbor freight starting as low as $960 (www.harborfreight.com
>>
>>Homier (http://www.homier.com/default.asp) is another good source. I have
>>dealt with both these companies in the past.
>>
>>For additional ideas go to your local library and peruse their selection of
>>do-it-yourself books. When you find one that fits your needs go and buy a
>>copy as you will be referring to it often.
>>--
>>.
>>Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>>2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>>Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
>>.
>>"Sarge" <licker@lickersacademy.edu> wrote in message
>>news:dgr2pu0i9p@enews4.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>Pi-Eyed Piper wrote: "So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated,
>>>etc...
>>>Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add on,
>>>leave out?
>>>Any ideas are appreciated!"
>>>
>>>A bathroom:
>>>A small kitchen area with a stove: This is works well if you decide to
>>>throw a party, you can move your vehicles outside and entertain inside the
>>>climate controll garage. Food can be warmed and served. Keeps the mess
>>>out
>>>of your home and everyone can mingle ande have a good time without
>>>destroying your home.
>>>Sealed floor: makes clean easier.
>>>Run pipe in ceiling for hanging Air reels so you can use pneumatic tools
>>>by
>>>just pulling the hose down.
>>>Install AC cord reels from the ceiling also.
>>>A good work bench for tools
>>>Of course you got to have a good stereo to jam to while working on your
>>>car.
>>>
>>>Sarge
>>>
>>>
>>>

RoyJ

I always use double outlet box in the shop and garage, 2 different
circuits. Lets me run the shop vac with another tool and not blow the
breaker.

Mike Romain wrote:
> One thing I prefer to do with each power outlet is to make the top and
> bottom sockets on different fuses/breakers. That way I can run 2 power
> tools off the one plug-in without worrying about blowing breakers. I do
> this for kitchens too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>
>>You have gotten a lot of good suggestions. My opinion FWIW..
>>
>>You can never have enough electric outlets (120v and 220v) and lighting. Get
>>'commercial' grade fluorescent fixtures. They will cost an additional $10
>>apiece but you get real ballasts and an extra 20-25% light output. Be sure
>>to 'ground fault' all the 120v outlets. You only need a GFI in the 1st
>>outlet in the electric run and it will cover the rest. Call your local
>>building department to see how many outlets you can have after the first.
>>In my area it is six per circuit.
>>
>>Get the largest circuit panel you can a you can never have enough empty
>>slots. I just upgraded my parents 4 circuit fuse box to a 40 circuit
>>breaker panel and used up 30.
>>
>>Work benches are easily built out of common materials. Go out of your way
>>to make then sturdy as you will regularly be abusing them.
>>
>>Secure wall storage is easily built, extremely easy if you don't drywall the
>>walls but easy none the less. Anyone can install drywall with common
>>tools... it does take a bit of experience to do the finish work but most
>>garages are limited to the first tape stage. Paint the walls with gloss
>>white paint. The gloss will make it easy to maintain and the white will
>>brighten the shop.
>>
>>A half bath would be nice and your bride would probably appreciate if you
>>added a freestanding shower unit so you aren't tracking the typical Jeep
>>filth into 'her' house. To save some cash just rough in the 2" drain lines
>>before you pour the floor.
>>
>>Concerning the floor you want a steel trowel finish and after the cement has
>>properly 'aged' coat it with epoxy floor paint. It will cost about $25 per
>>100 sq ft but is well worth it as it is indestructible. The epoxy floor of
>>our local firehouse was done in 1963 and with the exception of some fading
>>near the glass doors is in excellent condition. Pick a lighter color. It
>>will show more dirt but will brighten the garage.
>>
>>Before you install the walls and ceiling you can run piping for your
>>compressor. Copper water pipe is plenty strong and you can sweat the
>>connection together easily and then convert to NPT fittings and quick
>>connects. As for compressors the larger the better and you can tuck it away
>>somewhere so you can insulate against the sound. You can extend the tank
>>drain petcock to a convenient spot like just above the sink or floor drain.
>>
>>If you are really ambitious you can build yourself a mini grease pit to
>>eliminate much of the need for jacks and safety stands. You can build it so
>>a sturdy lumber floor can be installed when not needed.
>>
>>Bill's idea of a lift is a good idea. In addition to his link they are also
>>available from harbor freight starting as low as $960 (www.harborfreight.com
>>
>>Homier (http://www.homier.com/default.asp) is another good source. I have
>>dealt with both these companies in the past.
>>
>>For additional ideas go to your local library and peruse their selection of
>>do-it-yourself books. When you find one that fits your needs go and buy a
>>copy as you will be referring to it often.
>>--
>>.
>>Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>>2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>>Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
>>.
>>"Sarge" <licker@lickersacademy.edu> wrote in message
>>news:dgr2pu0i9p@enews4.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>Pi-Eyed Piper wrote: "So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated,
>>>etc...
>>>Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add on,
>>>leave out?
>>>Any ideas are appreciated!"
>>>
>>>A bathroom:
>>>A small kitchen area with a stove: This is works well if you decide to
>>>throw a party, you can move your vehicles outside and entertain inside the
>>>climate controll garage. Food can be warmed and served. Keeps the mess
>>>out
>>>of your home and everyone can mingle ande have a good time without
>>>destroying your home.
>>>Sealed floor: makes clean easier.
>>>Run pipe in ceiling for hanging Air reels so you can use pneumatic tools
>>>by
>>>just pulling the hose down.
>>>Install AC cord reels from the ceiling also.
>>>A good work bench for tools
>>>Of course you got to have a good stereo to jam to while working on your
>>>car.
>>>
>>>Sarge
>>>
>>>
>>>

RoyJ

I always use double outlet box in the shop and garage, 2 different
circuits. Lets me run the shop vac with another tool and not blow the
breaker.

Mike Romain wrote:
> One thing I prefer to do with each power outlet is to make the top and
> bottom sockets on different fuses/breakers. That way I can run 2 power
> tools off the one plug-in without worrying about blowing breakers. I do
> this for kitchens too.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Billy Ray wrote:
>
>>You have gotten a lot of good suggestions. My opinion FWIW..
>>
>>You can never have enough electric outlets (120v and 220v) and lighting. Get
>>'commercial' grade fluorescent fixtures. They will cost an additional $10
>>apiece but you get real ballasts and an extra 20-25% light output. Be sure
>>to 'ground fault' all the 120v outlets. You only need a GFI in the 1st
>>outlet in the electric run and it will cover the rest. Call your local
>>building department to see how many outlets you can have after the first.
>>In my area it is six per circuit.
>>
>>Get the largest circuit panel you can a you can never have enough empty
>>slots. I just upgraded my parents 4 circuit fuse box to a 40 circuit
>>breaker panel and used up 30.
>>
>>Work benches are easily built out of common materials. Go out of your way
>>to make then sturdy as you will regularly be abusing them.
>>
>>Secure wall storage is easily built, extremely easy if you don't drywall the
>>walls but easy none the less. Anyone can install drywall with common
>>tools... it does take a bit of experience to do the finish work but most
>>garages are limited to the first tape stage. Paint the walls with gloss
>>white paint. The gloss will make it easy to maintain and the white will
>>brighten the shop.
>>
>>A half bath would be nice and your bride would probably appreciate if you
>>added a freestanding shower unit so you aren't tracking the typical Jeep
>>filth into 'her' house. To save some cash just rough in the 2" drain lines
>>before you pour the floor.
>>
>>Concerning the floor you want a steel trowel finish and after the cement has
>>properly 'aged' coat it with epoxy floor paint. It will cost about $25 per
>>100 sq ft but is well worth it as it is indestructible. The epoxy floor of
>>our local firehouse was done in 1963 and with the exception of some fading
>>near the glass doors is in excellent condition. Pick a lighter color. It
>>will show more dirt but will brighten the garage.
>>
>>Before you install the walls and ceiling you can run piping for your
>>compressor. Copper water pipe is plenty strong and you can sweat the
>>connection together easily and then convert to NPT fittings and quick
>>connects. As for compressors the larger the better and you can tuck it away
>>somewhere so you can insulate against the sound. You can extend the tank
>>drain petcock to a convenient spot like just above the sink or floor drain.
>>
>>If you are really ambitious you can build yourself a mini grease pit to
>>eliminate much of the need for jacks and safety stands. You can build it so
>>a sturdy lumber floor can be installed when not needed.
>>
>>Bill's idea of a lift is a good idea. In addition to his link they are also
>>available from harbor freight starting as low as $960 (www.harborfreight.com
>>
>>Homier (http://www.homier.com/default.asp) is another good source. I have
>>dealt with both these companies in the past.
>>
>>For additional ideas go to your local library and peruse their selection of
>>do-it-yourself books. When you find one that fits your needs go and buy a
>>copy as you will be referring to it often.
>>--
>>.
>>Billy_Ray@SPAM.fuse.net (remove SPAM)
>>2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
>>Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
>>.
>>"Sarge" <licker@lickersacademy.edu> wrote in message
>>news:dgr2pu0i9p@enews4.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>Pi-Eyed Piper wrote: "So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated,
>>>etc...
>>>Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add on,
>>>leave out?
>>>Any ideas are appreciated!"
>>>
>>>A bathroom:
>>>A small kitchen area with a stove: This is works well if you decide to
>>>throw a party, you can move your vehicles outside and entertain inside the
>>>climate controll garage. Food can be warmed and served. Keeps the mess
>>>out
>>>of your home and everyone can mingle ande have a good time without
>>>destroying your home.
>>>Sealed floor: makes clean easier.
>>>Run pipe in ceiling for hanging Air reels so you can use pneumatic tools
>>>by
>>>just pulling the hose down.
>>>Install AC cord reels from the ceiling also.
>>>A good work bench for tools
>>>Of course you got to have a good stereo to jam to while working on your
>>>car.
>>>
>>>Sarge
>>>
>>>
>>>

Pi-Eyed Piper

it's detached..

I'll get good extinguishers in there

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-Ppj7dZivyDlX@anon.none.net...
> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 03:32:43 UTC "Pi-Eyed Piper" <asd@asd.com> wrote:
>
>> So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated, etc...
>>
>> Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add
>> on,
>> leave out?
>>
>> Any ideas are appreciated!
>
> So far, everyone has left out at least on essential: multiple well
> mounted fire extinguishers. Not the toy ones, real extinguishers.
> Ask you local fire department for recommendations. If you finish the
> walls, be sure you get fire rated sheetrock. If it's an attached
> garage check local codes - they will probably specify the fire rating
> for the joining walls. Run a phone line.
>
> You might also consider running at least one cross beam sturdy enough
> to handle a hoist (additional support posts on the ends.
>
> Hey, give us time - we can make this thing match your house mortage if
> we try <g>.
>
> --
> Will Honea

Pi-Eyed Piper

it's detached..

I'll get good extinguishers in there

"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:JxX2tWiP5BNp-pn2-Ppj7dZivyDlX@anon.none.net...
> On Wed, 21 Sep 2005 03:32:43 UTC "Pi-Eyed Piper" <asd@asd.com> wrote:
>
>> So FINALLY I'm getting a garage. 24X26 Heated, etc...
>>
>> Can anyone give me some good ideas for building? Anything I should add
>> on,
>> leave out?
>>
>> Any ideas are appreciated!
>
> So far, everyone has left out at least on essential: multiple well
> mounted fire extinguishers. Not the toy ones, real extinguishers.
> Ask you local fire department for recommendations. If you finish the
> walls, be sure you get fire rated sheetrock. If it's an attached
> garage check local codes - they will probably specify the fire rating
> for the joining walls. Run a phone line.
>
> You might also consider running at least one cross beam sturdy enough
> to handle a hoist (additional support posts on the ends.
>
> Hey, give us time - we can make this thing match your house mortage if
> we try <g>.
>
> --
> Will Honea