Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
girlfriend.

I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a series
of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan hit
the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.

Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
pan? Leaked with and without sealer.

Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound coming
from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.

I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
problem?

Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?

Carl

 

Almost forgot..

How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.

What am I doing wrong for it to leak?

Carl

"Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> girlfriend.
>
> I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
series
> of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
hit
> the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
>
> Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
>
> Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
coming
> from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
>
> I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> problem?
>
> Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
>
> Carl
>
>

 

Almost forgot..

How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.

What am I doing wrong for it to leak?

Carl

"Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> girlfriend.
>
> I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
series
> of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
hit
> the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
>
> Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
>
> Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
coming
> from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
>
> I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> problem?
>
> Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
>
> Carl
>
>

 

Almost forgot..

How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.

What am I doing wrong for it to leak?

Carl

"Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> girlfriend.
>
> I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
series
> of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
hit
> the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
>
> Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
>
> Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
coming
> from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
>
> I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> problem?
>
> Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
>
> Carl
>
>

 

Almost forgot..

How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.

What am I doing wrong for it to leak?

Carl

"Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> girlfriend.
>
> I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
series
> of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
hit
> the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
>
> Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
>
> Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
coming
> from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
>
> I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> problem?
>
> Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
>
> Carl
>
>

 

Hi Carl,
Four foot pounds: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/ Like you
use on these hand tightened valve covers:
http://members.aol.com/Larr------/larryengine.jpg
I would buy her a new pan. You may be able to save it by running a
straight edge along it's sides, and work it to fit, again. Two gaskets
would never work for any application. Because it is now wrapped I'd use
instead of a gasket use only Permatex blue silicone about a quarter inch
sized bead around the a perfectly clean gasket area. I use denatured
alcohol to clean, as using gasoline looks clean, but the silicone won't
stick to it's oily residue. Practice with dry runs, as any slide around
will make your job a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> Almost forgot..
>
> How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
> feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
> valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.
>
> What am I doing wrong for it to leak?
>
> Carl
>
> "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> > girlfriend.
> >
> > I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
> series
> > of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> > apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> > the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> > connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
> hit
> > the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
> >
> > Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> > Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> > is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> > Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> > pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
> >
> > Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
> coming
> > from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> > sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
> >
> > I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> > problem?
> >
> > Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >

 

Hi Carl,
Four foot pounds: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/ Like you
use on these hand tightened valve covers:
http://members.aol.com/Larr------/larryengine.jpg
I would buy her a new pan. You may be able to save it by running a
straight edge along it's sides, and work it to fit, again. Two gaskets
would never work for any application. Because it is now wrapped I'd use
instead of a gasket use only Permatex blue silicone about a quarter inch
sized bead around the a perfectly clean gasket area. I use denatured
alcohol to clean, as using gasoline looks clean, but the silicone won't
stick to it's oily residue. Practice with dry runs, as any slide around
will make your job a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> Almost forgot..
>
> How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
> feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
> valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.
>
> What am I doing wrong for it to leak?
>
> Carl
>
> "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> > girlfriend.
> >
> > I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
> series
> > of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> > apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> > the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> > connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
> hit
> > the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
> >
> > Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> > Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> > is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> > Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> > pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
> >
> > Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
> coming
> > from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> > sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
> >
> > I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> > problem?
> >
> > Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >

 

Hi Carl,
Four foot pounds: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/ Like you
use on these hand tightened valve covers:
http://members.aol.com/Larr------/larryengine.jpg
I would buy her a new pan. You may be able to save it by running a
straight edge along it's sides, and work it to fit, again. Two gaskets
would never work for any application. Because it is now wrapped I'd use
instead of a gasket use only Permatex blue silicone about a quarter inch
sized bead around the a perfectly clean gasket area. I use denatured
alcohol to clean, as using gasoline looks clean, but the silicone won't
stick to it's oily residue. Practice with dry runs, as any slide around
will make your job a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> Almost forgot..
>
> How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
> feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
> valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.
>
> What am I doing wrong for it to leak?
>
> Carl
>
> "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> > girlfriend.
> >
> > I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
> series
> > of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> > apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> > the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> > connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
> hit
> > the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
> >
> > Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> > Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> > is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> > Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> > pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
> >
> > Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
> coming
> > from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> > sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
> >
> > I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> > problem?
> >
> > Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >

 

Hi Carl,
Four foot pounds: http://members.tripod.com/torquespecs/ Like you
use on these hand tightened valve covers:
http://members.aol.com/Larr------/larryengine.jpg
I would buy her a new pan. You may be able to save it by running a
straight edge along it's sides, and work it to fit, again. Two gaskets
would never work for any application. Because it is now wrapped I'd use
instead of a gasket use only Permatex blue silicone about a quarter inch
sized bead around the a perfectly clean gasket area. I use denatured
alcohol to clean, as using gasoline looks clean, but the silicone won't
stick to it's oily residue. Practice with dry runs, as any slide around
will make your job a waste of time.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> Almost forgot..
>
> How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
> feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
> valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.
>
> What am I doing wrong for it to leak?
>
> Carl
>
> "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> > girlfriend.
> >
> > I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
> series
> > of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> > apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> > the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> > connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
> hit
> > the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
> >
> > Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> > Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> > is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> > Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> > pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
> >
> > Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
> coming
> > from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> > sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
> >
> > I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> > problem?
> >
> > Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >

 

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> Almost forgot..
>
> How tight should the pan bolts be? I didn't use a torque wrench but I don't
> feel that I "overtorqued" them.. I put them all a we bit tighter than a
> valve cover to start out.. tightened more when I saw the leak.. no change.
>
> What am I doing wrong for it to leak?

If you are using RTV, you need to let it cure for 24 hours like the
package says or it will leak usually.... Same if there is even a
fingerprint on the surface, it will leak there. I use acetone or paint
thinner or even coleman fuel as a wipe for a final clean before
installing.

You need to bend the pan a 'lot' straighter too by the sounds of it or
get a new one.

Then when you go to put the gasket on, you can use thread and tie the
sucker through the bolt holes so it stays in place.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's


>
> Carl
>
> "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:42d1e463$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > Car in question is 1990 Chev Cavalier with the 3.1 v6. 165k, belongs to my
> > girlfriend.
> >
> > I was going to change her transmission fluid and filter today, and a
> series
> > of events caused the oil pan to get dented. Started the car and it was
> > apparent that the crank was hitting the tray in the pan. Removed the pan,
> > the dent caused the tray to bend up, hit somewhere along one of the
> > connecting rod ends or something. Still unable to identify where the pan
> hit
> > the crank.. no apparent damage to the crank, minimal to the pan.
> >
> > Bent the pan back, cut away part of the tray and bent the rest back.
> > Re-installed with a new gasket (took two gaskets and five tries!). The pan
> > is sheetmetal and I made sure to straighten it around all the bolt holes.
> > Having leaking issues front and side of the pan. Guessing she needs a new
> > pan? Leaked with and without sealer.
> >
> > Also, upon startup there is a high pitched screeching/scraping sound
> coming
> > from the lower front of the engine.. any ideas? At speed and idle the car
> > sounds and runs fine, despite a little tapping.
> >
> > I cut out a small portion of the tray around the oil pump.. is this a
> > problem?
> >
> > Will a new pan and gasket do it, or is it time to dump the chevy?
> >
> > Carl
> >
> >