Peter D.

Thanks for the tip Earl. I will try to find out what brand the OEM is. The vehicle was largely built
with AC Delco parts. Don't know if Delco makes axles yet...will find out. In general, to me Delco is
a solid brand. Not much of anything on this car requires attention, and it has 174k miles. Engine
burns about half a quart of oil per 1000 miles which is not bad. I try not to abuse this car so it
will last as long as possible.

I recently replaced the EGR and PCV Delco valves with non-OEM's. Last year the car barely passed
emissions due to NOx's. Some months later the PCM started throwing up a code related to the EGR
system. By the way, does anyone know how it is possible that the DMV would lower the emissions
limits over the years? During the 90's the limit was 3.0 units for the NOx's, starting about 4 years
ago it was lowered to 2.0 units. The car last year when it was tested passed at 1.96 units. I hope
they have no plans to lower the NOx's to 1.0 units - my Caddy would never pass...

I probably never mentioned this; the car is a 92 Deville, looks great, first owner, and no it is
*not* for sale. It left me stranded only twice. 1st time when the 72-month battery simply died on
its 73rd month. The other happened roughly two years ago when a trusted mechanic told me the oil
cooler lines were due for replacement. I thought they were not in that bad a shape so I did not
change them. About a year later one of the hoses (there are two) simply ruptured and oil sprayed all
over the engine. That was a mess!
Peter

"Earle Horton" <gracioso@usa.com> wrote in message
news:45f8b9f0$0$2431$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> It makes a difference which model Caddy this is, and whether they want your
> old shaft for a "core" or not. That is a sure sign of rebuilt units.
>
> Generally if a "luxury car" part is also used on a more proletarian model,
> the "luxury car" owner gets shafted at parts replacement time, while the
> working class car owner gets a better price for the identical part. This is
> perfectly legal. You can find out which other GM models used the same
> running gear as your Caddy, or shop at Autozone.
>
> Earle
>
> "Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
> news:Xw2Kh.1080$Kj3.671@newsfe12.lga...
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > I am puzzled:
> > I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some
> 170k miles they knock badly
> > especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem
> is new OEM units at a
> > local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with
> taxes, parts only! I could
> > not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least
> expensive OEMs were around
> > something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it
> wouldn't be much less than the
> > dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket
> ones for around roughly
> > $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
> >
> > The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have
> plenty of experience with
> > aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are.
> Which brand is
> > worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long
> but hell, I don't know if
> > the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a
> shaft to break under load
> > either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
>
>

Peter D.

Thanks for the tip Earl. I will try to find out what brand the OEM is. The vehicle was largely built
with AC Delco parts. Don't know if Delco makes axles yet...will find out. In general, to me Delco is
a solid brand. Not much of anything on this car requires attention, and it has 174k miles. Engine
burns about half a quart of oil per 1000 miles which is not bad. I try not to abuse this car so it
will last as long as possible.

I recently replaced the EGR and PCV Delco valves with non-OEM's. Last year the car barely passed
emissions due to NOx's. Some months later the PCM started throwing up a code related to the EGR
system. By the way, does anyone know how it is possible that the DMV would lower the emissions
limits over the years? During the 90's the limit was 3.0 units for the NOx's, starting about 4 years
ago it was lowered to 2.0 units. The car last year when it was tested passed at 1.96 units. I hope
they have no plans to lower the NOx's to 1.0 units - my Caddy would never pass...

I probably never mentioned this; the car is a 92 Deville, looks great, first owner, and no it is
*not* for sale. It left me stranded only twice. 1st time when the 72-month battery simply died on
its 73rd month. The other happened roughly two years ago when a trusted mechanic told me the oil
cooler lines were due for replacement. I thought they were not in that bad a shape so I did not
change them. About a year later one of the hoses (there are two) simply ruptured and oil sprayed all
over the engine. That was a mess!
Peter

"Earle Horton" <gracioso@usa.com> wrote in message
news:45f8b9f0$0$2431$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> It makes a difference which model Caddy this is, and whether they want your
> old shaft for a "core" or not. That is a sure sign of rebuilt units.
>
> Generally if a "luxury car" part is also used on a more proletarian model,
> the "luxury car" owner gets shafted at parts replacement time, while the
> working class car owner gets a better price for the identical part. This is
> perfectly legal. You can find out which other GM models used the same
> running gear as your Caddy, or shop at Autozone.
>
> Earle
>
> "Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
> news:Xw2Kh.1080$Kj3.671@newsfe12.lga...
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > I am puzzled:
> > I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some
> 170k miles they knock badly
> > especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem
> is new OEM units at a
> > local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with
> taxes, parts only! I could
> > not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least
> expensive OEMs were around
> > something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it
> wouldn't be much less than the
> > dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket
> ones for around roughly
> > $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
> >
> > The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have
> plenty of experience with
> > aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are.
> Which brand is
> > worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long
> but hell, I don't know if
> > the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a
> shaft to break under load
> > either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
>
>

Peter D.

Thanks for the tip Earl. I will try to find out what brand the OEM is. The vehicle was largely built
with AC Delco parts. Don't know if Delco makes axles yet...will find out. In general, to me Delco is
a solid brand. Not much of anything on this car requires attention, and it has 174k miles. Engine
burns about half a quart of oil per 1000 miles which is not bad. I try not to abuse this car so it
will last as long as possible.

I recently replaced the EGR and PCV Delco valves with non-OEM's. Last year the car barely passed
emissions due to NOx's. Some months later the PCM started throwing up a code related to the EGR
system. By the way, does anyone know how it is possible that the DMV would lower the emissions
limits over the years? During the 90's the limit was 3.0 units for the NOx's, starting about 4 years
ago it was lowered to 2.0 units. The car last year when it was tested passed at 1.96 units. I hope
they have no plans to lower the NOx's to 1.0 units - my Caddy would never pass...

I probably never mentioned this; the car is a 92 Deville, looks great, first owner, and no it is
*not* for sale. It left me stranded only twice. 1st time when the 72-month battery simply died on
its 73rd month. The other happened roughly two years ago when a trusted mechanic told me the oil
cooler lines were due for replacement. I thought they were not in that bad a shape so I did not
change them. About a year later one of the hoses (there are two) simply ruptured and oil sprayed all
over the engine. That was a mess!
Peter

"Earle Horton" <gracioso@usa.com> wrote in message
news:45f8b9f0$0$2431$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
> It makes a difference which model Caddy this is, and whether they want your
> old shaft for a "core" or not. That is a sure sign of rebuilt units.
>
> Generally if a "luxury car" part is also used on a more proletarian model,
> the "luxury car" owner gets shafted at parts replacement time, while the
> working class car owner gets a better price for the identical part. This is
> perfectly legal. You can find out which other GM models used the same
> running gear as your Caddy, or shop at Autozone.
>
> Earle
>
> "Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
> news:Xw2Kh.1080$Kj3.671@newsfe12.lga...
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > I am puzzled:
> > I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some
> 170k miles they knock badly
> > especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem
> is new OEM units at a
> > local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with
> taxes, parts only! I could
> > not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least
> expensive OEMs were around
> > something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it
> wouldn't be much less than the
> > dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket
> ones for around roughly
> > $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
> >
> > The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have
> plenty of experience with
> > aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are.
> Which brand is
> > worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long
> but hell, I don't know if
> > the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a
> shaft to break under load
> > either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Peter
> >
> >
>
>

RoyJ

You are looking at the difference between a brand new unit and a rebuilt
unit. The only thing that wears is the races and the *****, the rest
just goes along for the ride.

Peter D. wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am puzzled:
> I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some 170k miles they knock badly
> especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem is new OEM units at a
> local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with taxes, parts only! I could
> not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least expensive OEMs were around
> something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it wouldn't be much less than the
> dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket ones for around roughly
> $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
>
> The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have plenty of experience with
> aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are. Which brand is
> worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long but hell, I don't know if
> the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a shaft to break under load
> either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> Thanks!
>
> Peter
>
>

RoyJ

You are looking at the difference between a brand new unit and a rebuilt
unit. The only thing that wears is the races and the *****, the rest
just goes along for the ride.

Peter D. wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am puzzled:
> I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some 170k miles they knock badly
> especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem is new OEM units at a
> local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with taxes, parts only! I could
> not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least expensive OEMs were around
> something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it wouldn't be much less than the
> dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket ones for around roughly
> $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
>
> The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have plenty of experience with
> aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are. Which brand is
> worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long but hell, I don't know if
> the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a shaft to break under load
> either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> Thanks!
>
> Peter
>
>

RoyJ

You are looking at the difference between a brand new unit and a rebuilt
unit. The only thing that wears is the races and the *****, the rest
just goes along for the ride.

Peter D. wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> I am puzzled:
> I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some 170k miles they knock badly
> especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem is new OEM units at a
> local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with taxes, parts only! I could
> not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least expensive OEMs were around
> something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it wouldn't be much less than the
> dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket ones for around roughly
> $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
>
> The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have plenty of experience with
> aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are. Which brand is
> worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long but hell, I don't know if
> the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a shaft to break under load
> either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> Thanks!
>
> Peter
>
>

carpartmaps@gmail.com

map car part listings with http://www.CarPartMaps.com

On Mar 17, 10:06 pm, "Peter D."
<piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote:
> Thanks for the tip Earl. I will try to find out what brand the OEM is. The vehicle was largely built
> with AC Delco parts. Don't know if Delco makes axles yet...will find out. In general, to me Delco is
> a solid brand. Not much of anything on this car requires attention, and it has 174k miles. Engine
> burns about half a quart of oil per 1000 miles which is not bad. I try not to abuse this car so it
> will last as long as possible.
>
> I recently replaced the EGR and PCV Delco valves with non-OEM's. Last year the car barely passed
> emissions due to NOx's. Some months later the PCM started throwing up a code related to the EGR
> system. By the way, does anyone know how it is possible that the DMV would lower the emissions
> limits over the years? During the 90's the limit was 3.0 units for the NOx's, starting about 4 years
> ago it was lowered to 2.0 units. The car last year when it was tested passed at 1.96 units. I hope
> they have no plans to lower the NOx's to 1.0 units - my Caddy would never pass...
>
> I probably never mentioned this; the car is a 92 Deville, looks great, first owner, and no it is
> *not* for sale. It left me stranded only twice. 1st time when the 72-month battery simply died on
> its 73rd month. The other happened roughly two years ago when a trusted mechanic told me the oil
> cooler lines were due for replacement. I thought they were not in that bad a shape so I did not
> change them. About a year later one of the hoses (there are two) simply ruptured and oil sprayed all
> over the engine. That was a mess!
> Peter
>
> "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote in message
>
> news:45f8b9f0$0$2431$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
>
>
>
> > It makes a difference which model Caddy this is, and whether they want your
> > old shaft for a "core" or not. That is a sure sign of rebuilt units.
>
> > Generally if a "luxurycar" partis also used on a more proletarian model,
> > the "luxury car" owner gets shafted at parts replacement time, while the
> > working class car owner gets a better price for the identical part. This is
> > perfectly legal. You can find out which other GM models used the same
> > running gear as your Caddy, or shop at Autozone.
>
> > Earle
>
> > "Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
> >news:Xw2Kh.1080$Kj3.671@newsfe12.lga...
> > > Hi Everyone,
>
> > > I am puzzled:
> > > I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some
> > 170k miles they knock badly
> > > especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem
> > is new OEM units at a
> > > local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with
> > taxes, parts only! I could
> > > not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least
> > expensive OEMs were around
> > > something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it
> > wouldn't be much less than the
> > > dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket
> > ones for around roughly
> > > $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
>
> > > The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have
> > plenty of experience with
> > > aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are.
> > Which brand is
> > > worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long
> > but hell, I don't know if
> > > the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a
> > shaft to break under load
> > > either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> > > Thanks!
>
> > > Peter- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

carpartmaps@gmail.com

map car part listings with http://www.CarPartMaps.com

On Mar 17, 10:06 pm, "Peter D."
<piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote:
> Thanks for the tip Earl. I will try to find out what brand the OEM is. The vehicle was largely built
> with AC Delco parts. Don't know if Delco makes axles yet...will find out. In general, to me Delco is
> a solid brand. Not much of anything on this car requires attention, and it has 174k miles. Engine
> burns about half a quart of oil per 1000 miles which is not bad. I try not to abuse this car so it
> will last as long as possible.
>
> I recently replaced the EGR and PCV Delco valves with non-OEM's. Last year the car barely passed
> emissions due to NOx's. Some months later the PCM started throwing up a code related to the EGR
> system. By the way, does anyone know how it is possible that the DMV would lower the emissions
> limits over the years? During the 90's the limit was 3.0 units for the NOx's, starting about 4 years
> ago it was lowered to 2.0 units. The car last year when it was tested passed at 1.96 units. I hope
> they have no plans to lower the NOx's to 1.0 units - my Caddy would never pass...
>
> I probably never mentioned this; the car is a 92 Deville, looks great, first owner, and no it is
> *not* for sale. It left me stranded only twice. 1st time when the 72-month battery simply died on
> its 73rd month. The other happened roughly two years ago when a trusted mechanic told me the oil
> cooler lines were due for replacement. I thought they were not in that bad a shape so I did not
> change them. About a year later one of the hoses (there are two) simply ruptured and oil sprayed all
> over the engine. That was a mess!
> Peter
>
> "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote in message
>
> news:45f8b9f0$0$2431$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
>
>
>
> > It makes a difference which model Caddy this is, and whether they want your
> > old shaft for a "core" or not. That is a sure sign of rebuilt units.
>
> > Generally if a "luxurycar" partis also used on a more proletarian model,
> > the "luxury car" owner gets shafted at parts replacement time, while the
> > working class car owner gets a better price for the identical part. This is
> > perfectly legal. You can find out which other GM models used the same
> > running gear as your Caddy, or shop at Autozone.
>
> > Earle
>
> > "Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
> >news:Xw2Kh.1080$Kj3.671@newsfe12.lga...
> > > Hi Everyone,
>
> > > I am puzzled:
> > > I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some
> > 170k miles they knock badly
> > > especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem
> > is new OEM units at a
> > > local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with
> > taxes, parts only! I could
> > > not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least
> > expensive OEMs were around
> > > something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it
> > wouldn't be much less than the
> > > dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket
> > ones for around roughly
> > > $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
>
> > > The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have
> > plenty of experience with
> > > aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are.
> > Which brand is
> > > worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long
> > but hell, I don't know if
> > > the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a
> > shaft to break under load
> > > either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> > > Thanks!
>
> > > Peter- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

carpartmaps@gmail.com

map car part listings with http://www.CarPartMaps.com

On Mar 17, 10:06 pm, "Peter D."
<piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote:
> Thanks for the tip Earl. I will try to find out what brand the OEM is. The vehicle was largely built
> with AC Delco parts. Don't know if Delco makes axles yet...will find out. In general, to me Delco is
> a solid brand. Not much of anything on this car requires attention, and it has 174k miles. Engine
> burns about half a quart of oil per 1000 miles which is not bad. I try not to abuse this car so it
> will last as long as possible.
>
> I recently replaced the EGR and PCV Delco valves with non-OEM's. Last year the car barely passed
> emissions due to NOx's. Some months later the PCM started throwing up a code related to the EGR
> system. By the way, does anyone know how it is possible that the DMV would lower the emissions
> limits over the years? During the 90's the limit was 3.0 units for the NOx's, starting about 4 years
> ago it was lowered to 2.0 units. The car last year when it was tested passed at 1.96 units. I hope
> they have no plans to lower the NOx's to 1.0 units - my Caddy would never pass...
>
> I probably never mentioned this; the car is a 92 Deville, looks great, first owner, and no it is
> *not* for sale. It left me stranded only twice. 1st time when the 72-month battery simply died on
> its 73rd month. The other happened roughly two years ago when a trusted mechanic told me the oil
> cooler lines were due for replacement. I thought they were not in that bad a shape so I did not
> change them. About a year later one of the hoses (there are two) simply ruptured and oil sprayed all
> over the engine. That was a mess!
> Peter
>
> "Earle Horton" <graci...@usa.com> wrote in message
>
> news:45f8b9f0$0$2431$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.co m...
>
>
>
> > It makes a difference which model Caddy this is, and whether they want your
> > old shaft for a "core" or not. That is a sure sign of rebuilt units.
>
> > Generally if a "luxurycar" partis also used on a more proletarian model,
> > the "luxury car" owner gets shafted at parts replacement time, while the
> > working class car owner gets a better price for the identical part. This is
> > perfectly legal. You can find out which other GM models used the same
> > running gear as your Caddy, or shop at Autozone.
>
> > Earle
>
> > "Peter D." <piotrekd@opt[removethispart]online.net> wrote in message
> >news:Xw2Kh.1080$Kj3.671@newsfe12.lga...
> > > Hi Everyone,
>
> > > I am puzzled:
> > > I need to replace the drive axles on my Cadil. After 15 years and some
> > 170k miles they knock badly
> > > especially in turns, a sure sign outer CV's require attention. The problem
> > is new OEM units at a
> > > local stealership go for well over $1000 each! That's roughly $2500 with
> > taxes, parts only! I could
> > > not believe what I heard. I searched all over the net but the least
> > expensive OEMs were around
> > > something like $800. That's still rather steep. With the shipping it
> > wouldn't be much less than the
> > > dealer wants. On the other hand, local AutoZone or Napa have aftermarket
> > ones for around roughly
> > > $100 each. Wow! What a difference.
>
> > > The reason why I brought the topic here is because I know you guys have
> > plenty of experience with
> > > aftermarket Jeep shafts. What can you tell me about how good/bad they are.
> > Which brand is
> > > worthwhile?. I don't suppose AZ or Napa shafts would last nearly as long
> > but hell, I don't know if
> > > the car will last another 15 years. On the other hand, I don't want a
> > shaft to break under load
> > > either. What do you guys think? Any input welcome.
> > > Thanks!
>
> > > Peter- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -