Earle Horton

Advance Adapters has an article in their Jeep Conversion Manual on Saginaw
steering conversions.

Don't rule out the automatic, if it is what you really want, until you get
the measurements on a TH350 and do the gear ratio engine speed math.

It wouldn't hurt to cruise the used car lots where you live, and see what is
available in a newer model. You could call it "research". Sometimes they
have coffee and donuts.

Earle

<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1147132728.188042.8330@j73g2000cwa.googlegrou ps.com...
> Yah, and *my* jeep is technicly my wifes. That is what she wanted,
> even though I tried to talk her out of it (I knew I'd spend all of my
> time working on it, like I did with the last 3 I've owned). Worked out
> nice though, because she can't get so mad that I'm spending time/money
> on "her" jeep. I don't want a CRV (but she might)!
>
> Since no one has said "EFI is easy", and it also sounds like the
> auto-tranny is out due to length. Guess I'll just go with whatever is
> easiest at this point, even if it means it still may be hard to find
> parts. That is probably the Buick 225 V6, which I've done before. I
> can keep my tranny and xfer case (plan on rebuilding them often, but at
> least they are cheap and easy to work on). I will need new front and
> rear ends though, since I want to change the gear ratio this time.
> Wish I could just change the gears on mine, because if I change the
> front-end I think I'll also need to change the steering.
>
> Starting to see a donor CJ5 in my future... Wonder if I can find one
> with a stock V6, so I can get the engine and axles all in one place.
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I got $4500 cash for my wife's FJ40. Then she went out and bought a CRV
to
> > replace it. Yeah I know, but that's what she wanted! Now I don't have
to
> > put in a V8 and wrestle with one of the Painless or Howell wiring kits,
> > transmission adapters, radiator, exhaust, etc., etc. You could try
selling
> > the CJ2 on your local paper, or park it in a conspicuous place with a
sign
> > in the windshield. It is a little like fishing. If they are biting,
you
> > may get lucky. If they are not biting in your area, then go with plan
"B".
> >
> > Your math on the rear axle ratio versus rpms is correct. Your math on
the
> > Howell wiring kit is good too. If you knew the FI systems and how they
> > worked, then wiring up the electronics without a kit would be easy,
using a
> > junk vehicle as a donor. That is a pretty big "if" though. And that is
> > only one phase of the conversion.
>

Earle Horton

Advance Adapters has an article in their Jeep Conversion Manual on Saginaw
steering conversions.

Don't rule out the automatic, if it is what you really want, until you get
the measurements on a TH350 and do the gear ratio engine speed math.

It wouldn't hurt to cruise the used car lots where you live, and see what is
available in a newer model. You could call it "research". Sometimes they
have coffee and donuts.

Earle

<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1147132728.188042.8330@j73g2000cwa.googlegrou ps.com...
> Yah, and *my* jeep is technicly my wifes. That is what she wanted,
> even though I tried to talk her out of it (I knew I'd spend all of my
> time working on it, like I did with the last 3 I've owned). Worked out
> nice though, because she can't get so mad that I'm spending time/money
> on "her" jeep. I don't want a CRV (but she might)!
>
> Since no one has said "EFI is easy", and it also sounds like the
> auto-tranny is out due to length. Guess I'll just go with whatever is
> easiest at this point, even if it means it still may be hard to find
> parts. That is probably the Buick 225 V6, which I've done before. I
> can keep my tranny and xfer case (plan on rebuilding them often, but at
> least they are cheap and easy to work on). I will need new front and
> rear ends though, since I want to change the gear ratio this time.
> Wish I could just change the gears on mine, because if I change the
> front-end I think I'll also need to change the steering.
>
> Starting to see a donor CJ5 in my future... Wonder if I can find one
> with a stock V6, so I can get the engine and axles all in one place.
>
> Earle Horton wrote:
> > I got $4500 cash for my wife's FJ40. Then she went out and bought a CRV
to
> > replace it. Yeah I know, but that's what she wanted! Now I don't have
to
> > put in a V8 and wrestle with one of the Painless or Howell wiring kits,
> > transmission adapters, radiator, exhaust, etc., etc. You could try
selling
> > the CJ2 on your local paper, or park it in a conspicuous place with a
sign
> > in the windshield. It is a little like fishing. If they are biting,
you
> > may get lucky. If they are not biting in your area, then go with plan
"B".
> >
> > Your math on the rear axle ratio versus rpms is correct. Your math on
the
> > Howell wiring kit is good too. If you knew the FI systems and how they
> > worked, then wiring up the electronics without a kit would be easy,
using a
> > junk vehicle as a donor. That is a pretty big "if" though. And that is
> > only one phase of the conversion.
>

Howard Eisenhauer

What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
below-

The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.

The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
I'd pass on it.

Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
money :).

Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/

& on the Early CJ5/Dauntless V6 site-

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/

Although obviously an Early CJ5 site, also has a rather rabid bunch of
Flattie Fanatics :).

Both the above resources are very rich in expertise relating to all of
your questions- Dey Been Der & Dun Dat :).

For the overdrive & a lots of other stuff talk to Herm-

http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/


My $.02 on mods- Your jeep will be worth far more in stock or near
stock condition than it ever will with 5 figures worth of mods to it.
It's generaly considered these days that its better not to do any mods
to a vintage vehicle that can't be un-done. If you really want a
killer "built" machine you will be better ($$$) off selling the 2A as
a stock vehicle & finding a later model 5/7/YJ/TJ to use as a base.

Good luck which ever way you decide to go-

H.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/Tonka.html


On 8 May 2006 13:53:04 -0700, eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

>1948 CJ2A, drive-train is mostly original. 134 L-head engine, T-19
>trans, Dana 18 xfer, Dana 25 front/rear (or whatever the original,
>weakest, kind were). I had the engine rebuilt about 2 years ago. I'm
>having the trans and xfer case rebuilt now (I rebuilt them 2 years ago,
>with the engine, but did an awful job). I spent a ton of money on new
>springs and shocks, 11" brakes, brake master cyl, tie-rods, steering
>gear box and shaft, so would like to keep them.
>
>In about two years (or next major problem) I'm going to upgrade the
>drive-train, but want to start getting parts now. Mostly I want to be
>able to go 60 on the highway, but also it is getting harder to find
>parts. I also need a bit more power, because my jeep doesn't do well
>going up the mountains, with 4 people, and a small trailer packed with
>camping gear.
>
>I wish I could keep the T-19 trans and the Dana 18 xfer, especially
>since I'm having them rebuilt right now (by a guy who really knows what
>he is doing). However, I don't think they'll hold up well, especially
>in the hills, where I want to go (I live at 2,000, and need to get up
>to 9,000 feet to get away from the heat on the weekends).
>
>Here is the combination I'm thinking about, after research on this
>newsgroup and other places. The main thing I'm worried about is all of
>the electronics required. I've got an elec. ignition on my L-head, but
>that was cheap enough to buy a spare if I'm ever wondering if it goes
>bad (instead of having to take it to someone who can test it).
>
>Chevy 4.3L V6 Vortec Engine
>T400R Auto trans (actually I think the newer 4L60-E is what most
>recommend)
>Dana 300 xfer case, straight through model
>Dana 30 rear end, standard (not offset)
>Dana 30 front
>3.73 gears in front and rear
>
>I was first looking at the older models, with the carbed engine and the
>non-electric auto trans. However, I think I'd run into the same
>problems with them, not being able to find parts, and I've heard that
>those were poor designs. Does anyone make a good V6 carbed engine, or
>has recently? How about an auto trans. without a computer? I guess I
>could go with manual, but I'd rather have an auto, and it seems nice
>not to mess with clutch linkages. I like the fact that this auto is an
>OD version also, since I want to cruise on the highway. I don't want
>to go over 60 though, I'm not crazy!
>
>I know I can get a carbed 350, V8, and find parts for it. However,
>that seems like more work because I have to change the radiator, and it
>doesn't fit as well (I love having lots of room to work under the
>hood).
>
>I put a 225 Buick V6 in a 1949 CJ2A I used to have. Didn't really like
>it, but I also didn't change anything else (trans, xfer, axles) and
>ended up blowing the T-19, and still had low top-speed (same gears).
>
>Any opinions greatly appreciated!

Howard Eisenhauer

What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
below-

The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.

The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
I'd pass on it.

Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
money :).

Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/

& on the Early CJ5/Dauntless V6 site-

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/

Although obviously an Early CJ5 site, also has a rather rabid bunch of
Flattie Fanatics :).

Both the above resources are very rich in expertise relating to all of
your questions- Dey Been Der & Dun Dat :).

For the overdrive & a lots of other stuff talk to Herm-

http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/


My $.02 on mods- Your jeep will be worth far more in stock or near
stock condition than it ever will with 5 figures worth of mods to it.
It's generaly considered these days that its better not to do any mods
to a vintage vehicle that can't be un-done. If you really want a
killer "built" machine you will be better ($$$) off selling the 2A as
a stock vehicle & finding a later model 5/7/YJ/TJ to use as a base.

Good luck which ever way you decide to go-

H.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/Tonka.html


On 8 May 2006 13:53:04 -0700, eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

>1948 CJ2A, drive-train is mostly original. 134 L-head engine, T-19
>trans, Dana 18 xfer, Dana 25 front/rear (or whatever the original,
>weakest, kind were). I had the engine rebuilt about 2 years ago. I'm
>having the trans and xfer case rebuilt now (I rebuilt them 2 years ago,
>with the engine, but did an awful job). I spent a ton of money on new
>springs and shocks, 11" brakes, brake master cyl, tie-rods, steering
>gear box and shaft, so would like to keep them.
>
>In about two years (or next major problem) I'm going to upgrade the
>drive-train, but want to start getting parts now. Mostly I want to be
>able to go 60 on the highway, but also it is getting harder to find
>parts. I also need a bit more power, because my jeep doesn't do well
>going up the mountains, with 4 people, and a small trailer packed with
>camping gear.
>
>I wish I could keep the T-19 trans and the Dana 18 xfer, especially
>since I'm having them rebuilt right now (by a guy who really knows what
>he is doing). However, I don't think they'll hold up well, especially
>in the hills, where I want to go (I live at 2,000, and need to get up
>to 9,000 feet to get away from the heat on the weekends).
>
>Here is the combination I'm thinking about, after research on this
>newsgroup and other places. The main thing I'm worried about is all of
>the electronics required. I've got an elec. ignition on my L-head, but
>that was cheap enough to buy a spare if I'm ever wondering if it goes
>bad (instead of having to take it to someone who can test it).
>
>Chevy 4.3L V6 Vortec Engine
>T400R Auto trans (actually I think the newer 4L60-E is what most
>recommend)
>Dana 300 xfer case, straight through model
>Dana 30 rear end, standard (not offset)
>Dana 30 front
>3.73 gears in front and rear
>
>I was first looking at the older models, with the carbed engine and the
>non-electric auto trans. However, I think I'd run into the same
>problems with them, not being able to find parts, and I've heard that
>those were poor designs. Does anyone make a good V6 carbed engine, or
>has recently? How about an auto trans. without a computer? I guess I
>could go with manual, but I'd rather have an auto, and it seems nice
>not to mess with clutch linkages. I like the fact that this auto is an
>OD version also, since I want to cruise on the highway. I don't want
>to go over 60 though, I'm not crazy!
>
>I know I can get a carbed 350, V8, and find parts for it. However,
>that seems like more work because I have to change the radiator, and it
>doesn't fit as well (I love having lots of room to work under the
>hood).
>
>I put a 225 Buick V6 in a 1949 CJ2A I used to have. Didn't really like
>it, but I also didn't change anything else (trans, xfer, axles) and
>ended up blowing the T-19, and still had low top-speed (same gears).
>
>Any opinions greatly appreciated!

Howard Eisenhauer

What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
below-

The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.

The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
I'd pass on it.

Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
money :).

Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/

& on the Early CJ5/Dauntless V6 site-

http://www.earlycj5.com/forums/

Although obviously an Early CJ5 site, also has a rather rabid bunch of
Flattie Fanatics :).

Both the above resources are very rich in expertise relating to all of
your questions- Dey Been Der & Dun Dat :).

For the overdrive & a lots of other stuff talk to Herm-

http://www.hermtheoverdriveguy.com/


My $.02 on mods- Your jeep will be worth far more in stock or near
stock condition than it ever will with 5 figures worth of mods to it.
It's generaly considered these days that its better not to do any mods
to a vintage vehicle that can't be un-done. If you really want a
killer "built" machine you will be better ($$$) off selling the 2A as
a stock vehicle & finding a later model 5/7/YJ/TJ to use as a base.

Good luck which ever way you decide to go-

H.

http://users.eastlink.ca/~howarde/Tonka.html


On 8 May 2006 13:53:04 -0700, eselk@surfbest.net wrote:

>1948 CJ2A, drive-train is mostly original. 134 L-head engine, T-19
>trans, Dana 18 xfer, Dana 25 front/rear (or whatever the original,
>weakest, kind were). I had the engine rebuilt about 2 years ago. I'm
>having the trans and xfer case rebuilt now (I rebuilt them 2 years ago,
>with the engine, but did an awful job). I spent a ton of money on new
>springs and shocks, 11" brakes, brake master cyl, tie-rods, steering
>gear box and shaft, so would like to keep them.
>
>In about two years (or next major problem) I'm going to upgrade the
>drive-train, but want to start getting parts now. Mostly I want to be
>able to go 60 on the highway, but also it is getting harder to find
>parts. I also need a bit more power, because my jeep doesn't do well
>going up the mountains, with 4 people, and a small trailer packed with
>camping gear.
>
>I wish I could keep the T-19 trans and the Dana 18 xfer, especially
>since I'm having them rebuilt right now (by a guy who really knows what
>he is doing). However, I don't think they'll hold up well, especially
>in the hills, where I want to go (I live at 2,000, and need to get up
>to 9,000 feet to get away from the heat on the weekends).
>
>Here is the combination I'm thinking about, after research on this
>newsgroup and other places. The main thing I'm worried about is all of
>the electronics required. I've got an elec. ignition on my L-head, but
>that was cheap enough to buy a spare if I'm ever wondering if it goes
>bad (instead of having to take it to someone who can test it).
>
>Chevy 4.3L V6 Vortec Engine
>T400R Auto trans (actually I think the newer 4L60-E is what most
>recommend)
>Dana 300 xfer case, straight through model
>Dana 30 rear end, standard (not offset)
>Dana 30 front
>3.73 gears in front and rear
>
>I was first looking at the older models, with the carbed engine and the
>non-electric auto trans. However, I think I'd run into the same
>problems with them, not being able to find parts, and I've heard that
>those were poor designs. Does anyone make a good V6 carbed engine, or
>has recently? How about an auto trans. without a computer? I guess I
>could go with manual, but I'd rather have an auto, and it seems nice
>not to mess with clutch linkages. I like the fact that this auto is an
>OD version also, since I want to cruise on the highway. I don't want
>to go over 60 though, I'm not crazy!
>
>I know I can get a carbed 350, V8, and find parts for it. However,
>that seems like more work because I have to change the radiator, and it
>doesn't fit as well (I love having lots of room to work under the
>hood).
>
>I put a 225 Buick V6 in a 1949 CJ2A I used to have. Didn't really like
>it, but I also didn't change anything else (trans, xfer, axles) and
>ended up blowing the T-19, and still had low top-speed (same gears).
>
>Any opinions greatly appreciated!

eselk@surfbest.net

Comments in-line with original text below...

Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
> What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
> de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
> that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
> top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
> below-

I'll admit most problems were related to the installer (me). I've
learned a lot in the past 12 years, so I think this time it would be
much better. Main problem was I still couldn't cruise at 60, since I
didn't change the gears. Back then I thought the V6 would give me
higher RPMs, like 6000 instead of 3000 (double my speed). Dumb
mistake.

> The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
> only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
> tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
> intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.

Good to know, I'll check that out before I give the go ahead to the
rebuild guy. He probably knows about these parts also, so I'll see
what he thinks.

> The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
> can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
> ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
> need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
> Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
> I'd pass on it.

I'll just have to measure since I'm getting conflicting info from each
person I ask. I think a lot of people are trying to put the auto in
the newer rigs with the straight xfer case, and I've heard they fit
better with my offset case because the rear output is lower. Seems
like most people think the T90, along with other stock jeep trannys are
all weak. I guess even the stock trannys with the stock V6, from the
factory, broke a lot.

> Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
> everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
> piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
> overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
> money :).

If my axles were in good shape I'd think more about keeping them. I
think the overdrive is a 30% increase, which is just what I need:

60 * 70% = 42 (so I'd be able to go 60 with the same RPMs I currently
get at 42, which 42 is around 2200 RPMs if I remember correctly
(haven't had the tach on for a while))

I'll check that site, but I know overdrives aren't cheap.

> Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
> also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-
>
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/

Hadn't seen this one yet, thanks.

> Good luck which ever way you decide to go-

Thanks!

eselk@surfbest.net

Comments in-line with original text below...

Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
> What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
> de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
> that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
> top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
> below-

I'll admit most problems were related to the installer (me). I've
learned a lot in the past 12 years, so I think this time it would be
much better. Main problem was I still couldn't cruise at 60, since I
didn't change the gears. Back then I thought the V6 would give me
higher RPMs, like 6000 instead of 3000 (double my speed). Dumb
mistake.

> The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
> only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
> tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
> intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.

Good to know, I'll check that out before I give the go ahead to the
rebuild guy. He probably knows about these parts also, so I'll see
what he thinks.

> The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
> can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
> ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
> need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
> Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
> I'd pass on it.

I'll just have to measure since I'm getting conflicting info from each
person I ask. I think a lot of people are trying to put the auto in
the newer rigs with the straight xfer case, and I've heard they fit
better with my offset case because the rear output is lower. Seems
like most people think the T90, along with other stock jeep trannys are
all weak. I guess even the stock trannys with the stock V6, from the
factory, broke a lot.

> Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
> everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
> piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
> overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
> money :).

If my axles were in good shape I'd think more about keeping them. I
think the overdrive is a 30% increase, which is just what I need:

60 * 70% = 42 (so I'd be able to go 60 with the same RPMs I currently
get at 42, which 42 is around 2200 RPMs if I remember correctly
(haven't had the tach on for a while))

I'll check that site, but I know overdrives aren't cheap.

> Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
> also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-
>
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/

Hadn't seen this one yet, thanks.

> Good luck which ever way you decide to go-

Thanks!

eselk@surfbest.net

Comments in-line with original text below...

Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
> What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
> de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
> that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
> top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
> below-

I'll admit most problems were related to the installer (me). I've
learned a lot in the past 12 years, so I think this time it would be
much better. Main problem was I still couldn't cruise at 60, since I
didn't change the gears. Back then I thought the V6 would give me
higher RPMs, like 6000 instead of 3000 (double my speed). Dumb
mistake.

> The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
> only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
> tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
> intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.

Good to know, I'll check that out before I give the go ahead to the
rebuild guy. He probably knows about these parts also, so I'll see
what he thinks.

> The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
> can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
> ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
> need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
> Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
> I'd pass on it.

I'll just have to measure since I'm getting conflicting info from each
person I ask. I think a lot of people are trying to put the auto in
the newer rigs with the straight xfer case, and I've heard they fit
better with my offset case because the rear output is lower. Seems
like most people think the T90, along with other stock jeep trannys are
all weak. I guess even the stock trannys with the stock V6, from the
factory, broke a lot.

> Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
> everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
> piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
> overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
> money :).

If my axles were in good shape I'd think more about keeping them. I
think the overdrive is a 30% increase, which is just what I need:

60 * 70% = 42 (so I'd be able to go 60 with the same RPMs I currently
get at 42, which 42 is around 2200 RPMs if I remember correctly
(haven't had the tach on for a while))

I'll check that site, but I know overdrives aren't cheap.

> Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
> also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-
>
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/

Hadn't seen this one yet, thanks.

> Good luck which ever way you decide to go-

Thanks!

Earle Horton

If you got a Buick V6 professionally race balanced and installed a different
cam, I'll bet you could get 6,000 rpm out of it. ;^)

Remember that while an overdrive increases road speed at a given engine rpm,
it decreases torque at the rear wheels. The factory overdrive (fifth gear)
in my 2.5 liter Wrangler is pretty much useless for that reason. So if you
install an overdrive or regear, you will probably need to increase engine
displacement to compensate.

Earle

<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1147189246.988163.161920@v46g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> Comments in-line with original text below...
>
> Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
> > What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
> > de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
> > that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
> > top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
> > below-
>
> I'll admit most problems were related to the installer (me). I've
> learned a lot in the past 12 years, so I think this time it would be
> much better. Main problem was I still couldn't cruise at 60, since I
> didn't change the gears. Back then I thought the V6 would give me
> higher RPMs, like 6000 instead of 3000 (double my speed). Dumb
> mistake.
>
> > The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
> > only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
> > tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
> > intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.
>
> Good to know, I'll check that out before I give the go ahead to the
> rebuild guy. He probably knows about these parts also, so I'll see
> what he thinks.
>
> > The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
> > can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
> > ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
> > need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
> > Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
> > I'd pass on it.
>
> I'll just have to measure since I'm getting conflicting info from each
> person I ask. I think a lot of people are trying to put the auto in
> the newer rigs with the straight xfer case, and I've heard they fit
> better with my offset case because the rear output is lower. Seems
> like most people think the T90, along with other stock jeep trannys are
> all weak. I guess even the stock trannys with the stock V6, from the
> factory, broke a lot.
>
> > Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
> > everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
> > piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
> > overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
> > money :).
>
> If my axles were in good shape I'd think more about keeping them. I
> think the overdrive is a 30% increase, which is just what I need:
>
> 60 * 70% = 42 (so I'd be able to go 60 with the same RPMs I currently
> get at 42, which 42 is around 2200 RPMs if I remember correctly
> (haven't had the tach on for a while))
>
> I'll check that site, but I know overdrives aren't cheap.
>
> > Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
> > also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-
> >
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/
>
> Hadn't seen this one yet, thanks.
>
> > Good luck which ever way you decide to go-
>
> Thanks!
>

Earle Horton

If you got a Buick V6 professionally race balanced and installed a different
cam, I'll bet you could get 6,000 rpm out of it. ;^)

Remember that while an overdrive increases road speed at a given engine rpm,
it decreases torque at the rear wheels. The factory overdrive (fifth gear)
in my 2.5 liter Wrangler is pretty much useless for that reason. So if you
install an overdrive or regear, you will probably need to increase engine
displacement to compensate.

Earle

<eselk@surfbest.net> wrote in message
news:1147189246.988163.161920@v46g2000cwv.googlegr oups.com...
> Comments in-line with original text below...
>
> Howard Eisenhauer wrote:
> > What specificly didn't you like about the Buick V6? This is the
> > de-facto standard engine swap of choice so I'm curious what it was
> > that gave you grief- Doesn't matter what tranny you put in there, the
> > top gear ratio is still going to be 1:1, see "overdrive" comments
> > below-
>
> I'll admit most problems were related to the installer (me). I've
> learned a lot in the past 12 years, so I think this time it would be
> much better. Main problem was I still couldn't cruise at 60, since I
> didn't change the gears. Back then I thought the V6 would give me
> higher RPMs, like 6000 instead of 3000 (double my speed). Dumb
> mistake.
>
> > The D18 xfer case is plenty strong for what you're talking about. the
> > only problem with them is that the intermediate shaft needle bearings
> > tend to chew up the shaft after about 30K miles, a hardened
> > intermediate shaft from Novak fixes that quite nicely.
>
> Good to know, I'll check that out before I give the go ahead to the
> rebuild guy. He probably knows about these parts also, so I'll see
> what he thinks.
>
> > The T90 if rebuilt properly should last as well as anything else you
> > can stick in there. An auto tranny is going to give you grief with a
> > ridulously short rear drive shaft & depending on the transfer case may
> > need a two piece "Commando" style front shaft to get around it.
> > Unless you really hate shifting or really need to creep over big rocks
> > I'd pass on it.
>
> I'll just have to measure since I'm getting conflicting info from each
> person I ask. I think a lot of people are trying to put the auto in
> the newer rigs with the straight xfer case, and I've heard they fit
> better with my offset case because the rear output is lower. Seems
> like most people think the T90, along with other stock jeep trannys are
> all weak. I guess even the stock trannys with the stock V6, from the
> factory, broke a lot.
>
> > Likewise the Dana 25/41 axles should also hold up fine for your use,
> > everbody rags on the weak axle shafts but they are in fact the same
> > piece as found in early 44s. As for the ring swap get a Warn/Saturn
> > overdrive instead, you get the best of both worlds for a lot less
> > money :).
>
> If my axles were in good shape I'd think more about keeping them. I
> think the overdrive is a 30% increase, which is just what I need:
>
> 60 * 70% = 42 (so I'd be able to go 60 with the same RPMs I currently
> get at 42, which 42 is around 2200 RPMs if I remember correctly
> (haven't had the tach on for a while))
>
> I'll check that site, but I know overdrives aren't cheap.
>
> > Not to dissparge the level of expertise here but I would suggest you
> > also solicit opinions on the ****** Tech list-
> >
> > http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/WillysTech/
>
> Hadn't seen this one yet, thanks.
>
> > Good luck which ever way you decide to go-
>
> Thanks!
>