Snow

> My mechanic isn't ripping me off. He's been lazy. I'm tapped out of
> money at this point. I'd just replaced two Michelin LTX M/S tires, two
> reflex struts, got a brake job and work is slow, so I'm in a jam..

Did he claim that cleaning the ports would solve your problem? Does he
know how to clear the error codes? the guy is a PUTZ he's a tool the
only difference between him and his torque wrench is the torque wrench
is useful.

> Can you blame me for not wanting to spend $100/hr at the dealership?
> My mechanic sent me there because he saw a TSB about computer flashing.

I cant blame you for wanting to save a couple of bucks, but lots here
had mentioned to first install a mechanical guage, which you nor your
idiot mechanic did. If your mechanic has acess to TSB's then he should
also have acess to service manuals, which would tell him to connect a
mechanical guage before flashing anything.

> When I got to the dealership the desk guy said that that wouldn't be
> the problem. I spoke to a mechanic at the dealership and he said it
> could be blockage, wiring or worn engine. The desk guy told me a new
> engine would be $7000. Do you blame me for running away?

What did the stealership say when you told them that a mechanical guage
was never installed for trouble shooting??

> I've been burnt by mechanics before. $500 to NOT find a problem I had
> with a Chevy Astro. After dealing with that guy I'd brought it to 2
> other places for diagnostics and no one could figure it out. (ANOTHER
> $150)

This is why you need to find a mechanic that will eat the cost of
missed diagnosed fixes. If they are good, if they have acess to TSB's,
service manuals then they wont mind standing behind their word, if they
are wrong then they won't mind eating the cost to correct things.

> How is my mechanic ripping me off if charges me $50 bucks to change the
> oil sensor because thats what he thought the problem was? Why am I
> wrong to bring it back to him to do his due diligence? He's changed my
> exhaust manifold, he just did my girfriends water pump and he does work
> at reasonable price.

$50 to change a oil sensor????? not a bad price considering its a 4
minute job and 1/2 that is spent washing up afterwards. when he had
the sensor off he should have installed the mech. guage.

Since you want to stick with the inept ripoff artist, please let us
know what happens once he finally installs the guage ( bet it shows
normal pressure) , if he f#ck$ things up again, demand a refund for all
work he preformed and then go find someone else.


Snow...

Snow

> My mechanic isn't ripping me off. He's been lazy. I'm tapped out of
> money at this point. I'd just replaced two Michelin LTX M/S tires, two
> reflex struts, got a brake job and work is slow, so I'm in a jam..

Did he claim that cleaning the ports would solve your problem? Does he
know how to clear the error codes? the guy is a PUTZ he's a tool the
only difference between him and his torque wrench is the torque wrench
is useful.

> Can you blame me for not wanting to spend $100/hr at the dealership?
> My mechanic sent me there because he saw a TSB about computer flashing.

I cant blame you for wanting to save a couple of bucks, but lots here
had mentioned to first install a mechanical guage, which you nor your
idiot mechanic did. If your mechanic has acess to TSB's then he should
also have acess to service manuals, which would tell him to connect a
mechanical guage before flashing anything.

> When I got to the dealership the desk guy said that that wouldn't be
> the problem. I spoke to a mechanic at the dealership and he said it
> could be blockage, wiring or worn engine. The desk guy told me a new
> engine would be $7000. Do you blame me for running away?

What did the stealership say when you told them that a mechanical guage
was never installed for trouble shooting??

> I've been burnt by mechanics before. $500 to NOT find a problem I had
> with a Chevy Astro. After dealing with that guy I'd brought it to 2
> other places for diagnostics and no one could figure it out. (ANOTHER
> $150)

This is why you need to find a mechanic that will eat the cost of
missed diagnosed fixes. If they are good, if they have acess to TSB's,
service manuals then they wont mind standing behind their word, if they
are wrong then they won't mind eating the cost to correct things.

> How is my mechanic ripping me off if charges me $50 bucks to change the
> oil sensor because thats what he thought the problem was? Why am I
> wrong to bring it back to him to do his due diligence? He's changed my
> exhaust manifold, he just did my girfriends water pump and he does work
> at reasonable price.

$50 to change a oil sensor????? not a bad price considering its a 4
minute job and 1/2 that is spent washing up afterwards. when he had
the sensor off he should have installed the mech. guage.

Since you want to stick with the inept ripoff artist, please let us
know what happens once he finally installs the guage ( bet it shows
normal pressure) , if he f#ck$ things up again, demand a refund for all
work he preformed and then go find someone else.


Snow...

Matt Macchiarolo

25 Minutes???? How about 5, including 2 minutes finding the right wrench!!!

"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>

Matt Macchiarolo

25 Minutes???? How about 5, including 2 minutes finding the right wrench!!!

"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>

Matt Macchiarolo

25 Minutes???? How about 5, including 2 minutes finding the right wrench!!!

"NJPainter" <vuso77@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1161024187.737077.267490@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>
>> I'm not trying to be a ***** here, but are you actually reading what
>> people
>> are posting here? Several of us have recommended that you install a
>> mechanical gage to verify the pressure, which most of us believe is not
>> the
>> problem. You have made several posts saying this and that about what your
>> crooked or uninformed mechanic is telling you to do. Read this one more
>> time: INSTALL A MECHANICAL GAGE FIRST!
>>
>> Regarding pulling the valve cover for blockage, it is a waste of money at
>> this point. Also, if the cover is not leaking, then don't f$#% with it.
>> The
>> valve cover has been a leak point for many Jeepers. If the oil drains in
>> the
>> head were in fact plugged, your engine would be letting you know every
>> time
>> the oil pan runs dry by rattling and knocking.
>>
>> I have seen so many electrical oil pressure gages give false reading, as
>> have many others reading and posting here. Not just on Jeeps either. The
>> gauge should be your first step.
>>
>> One good way to stop getting good advice is to publicly show that when
>> you
>> do get good advice repeatedly, you still don't follow it. A lot of these
>> guys that post here and own Jeeps know the little quirks they have, and
>> also
>> know the best way to get your Jeep running the way it should be.
>>
>> Chris
>
> I appreciate your candor...
>
> Listen, I'm low on money, and $400 into this situation already. I feel
> my mechanic has some resposibility to figure this out. When I went to
> the dealership, I was told that it wasn't a computer flashing fix.
> Therefore, I was left to conclude that any mechanic could figure this
> out with a lower cost.
>
> I'm going back to the mechanic tomorrow and he is going to install a
> mechanical gauge (it takes 25 minutes?) and he's going to have me drive
> around a little to see what the deal is.
>
> If it's showing good pressure, then that would mean that the dash gauge
> is the problem?
> If it isn't showing good pressure, then I'm in trouble, right?
>
> Thx
>

Outatime

NJPainter wrote:

> Oil Pressure: 40 PSI (idle)
> 60-70 PSI (pull)
>
> Mechanic was right, engine would've been f-ed if there was no or low
> pressure.

Imagine that. A faulty $20 sending unit. And someone behind a desk is
sobbing right about now, thinking about that $6k engine he won't be able
to sell you. Isn't funny how anti-climatic the truth can be?

> We changed out the pressure sensor again, changed from Fram to PureOne,
> and put in a quart of Lucas. He also cleaned dome of the connections.

The PureOne is a very good choice. I use it myself. Very good product.

No flames, so no cooling off is requred. I spoke the truth about a
known junk product. I like talking about the pink elephant in the room.
And I enjoy the terse reaction I get when facts are presented to an
audience that would then try to convince me that the Earth is flat.

Outatime

NJPainter wrote:

> Oil Pressure: 40 PSI (idle)
> 60-70 PSI (pull)
>
> Mechanic was right, engine would've been f-ed if there was no or low
> pressure.

Imagine that. A faulty $20 sending unit. And someone behind a desk is
sobbing right about now, thinking about that $6k engine he won't be able
to sell you. Isn't funny how anti-climatic the truth can be?

> We changed out the pressure sensor again, changed from Fram to PureOne,
> and put in a quart of Lucas. He also cleaned dome of the connections.

The PureOne is a very good choice. I use it myself. Very good product.

No flames, so no cooling off is requred. I spoke the truth about a
known junk product. I like talking about the pink elephant in the room.
And I enjoy the terse reaction I get when facts are presented to an
audience that would then try to convince me that the Earth is flat.

Outatime

NJPainter wrote:

> Oil Pressure: 40 PSI (idle)
> 60-70 PSI (pull)
>
> Mechanic was right, engine would've been f-ed if there was no or low
> pressure.

Imagine that. A faulty $20 sending unit. And someone behind a desk is
sobbing right about now, thinking about that $6k engine he won't be able
to sell you. Isn't funny how anti-climatic the truth can be?

> We changed out the pressure sensor again, changed from Fram to PureOne,
> and put in a quart of Lucas. He also cleaned dome of the connections.

The PureOne is a very good choice. I use it myself. Very good product.

No flames, so no cooling off is requred. I spoke the truth about a
known junk product. I like talking about the pink elephant in the room.
And I enjoy the terse reaction I get when facts are presented to an
audience that would then try to convince me that the Earth is flat.

Outatime

Earle Horton wrote:

> Change the hoses, take the old stuff to a recycler, use an ethylene glycol
> based formulation like Prestone Heavy Duty in the black container, blow all
> the flushing water out of the heater core with an air hose, but don't get
> the pressure too high.

Good point! Limit the regulator to 15 psi if possible. I've had very
nasty things happen when I forgot this little detail.

Outatime

Earle Horton wrote:

> Change the hoses, take the old stuff to a recycler, use an ethylene glycol
> based formulation like Prestone Heavy Duty in the black container, blow all
> the flushing water out of the heater core with an air hose, but don't get
> the pressure too high.

Good point! Limit the regulator to 15 psi if possible. I've had very
nasty things happen when I forgot this little detail.