oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
> this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.
> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
-Bill Kearney
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.
> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
-Bill Kearney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
> this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.
> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
-Bill Kearney
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.
> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
-Bill Kearney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
> this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.
> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
-Bill Kearney
> distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
usually chose to pull out.
> For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
"doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
-Bill Kearney
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
hope this helps.
;-)
In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
<wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
hope this helps.
;-)
In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
<wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
hope this helps.
;-)
In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
<wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
hope this helps.
;-)
In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
<wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
hope this helps.
;-)
In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
<wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>
the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
hope this helps.
;-)
In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
<wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
>
> Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> usually chose to pull out.
>
> > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
>
> Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
>
> -Bill Kearney
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
I assume you DID change the flex plate... as the old 2.8 is externally
balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
In article <031220041652181703%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
> the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
> standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
>
> The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
> 1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
> sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
> ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
> axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
> need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
> still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
> suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
>
> For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
> as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
> exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
> get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
>
> hope this helps.
> ;-)
>
> In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
> <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
> >
> > Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> > involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> > new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> > years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> > rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> > usually chose to pull out.
> >
> > > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
> >
> > Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> > "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> > There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> > sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
> >
> > -Bill Kearney
> >
balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
In article <031220041652181703%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
> the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
> standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
>
> The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
> 1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
> sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
> ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
> axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
> need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
> still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
> suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
>
> For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
> as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
> exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
> get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
>
> hope this helps.
> ;-)
>
> In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
> <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
> >
> > Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> > involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> > new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> > years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> > rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> > usually chose to pull out.
> >
> > > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
> >
> > Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> > "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> > There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> > sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
> >
> > -Bill Kearney
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
I assume you DID change the flex plate... as the old 2.8 is externally
balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
In article <031220041652181703%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
> the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
> standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
>
> The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
> 1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
> sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
> ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
> axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
> need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
> still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
> suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
>
> For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
> as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
> exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
> get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
>
> hope this helps.
> ;-)
>
> In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
> <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
> >
> > Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> > involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> > new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> > years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> > rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> > usually chose to pull out.
> >
> > > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
> >
> > Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> > "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> > There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> > sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
> >
> > -Bill Kearney
> >
balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
In article <031220041652181703%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
> the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
> standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
>
> The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
> 1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
> sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
> ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
> axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
> need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
> still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
> suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
>
> For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
> as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
> exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
> get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
>
> hope this helps.
> ;-)
>
> In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
> <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
> >
> > Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> > involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> > new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> > years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> > rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> > usually chose to pull out.
> >
> > > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
> >
> > Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> > "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> > There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> > sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
> >
> > -Bill Kearney
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
I assume you DID change the flex plate... as the old 2.8 is externally
balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
In article <031220041652181703%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
> the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
> standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
>
> The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
> 1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
> sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
> ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
> axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
> need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
> still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
> suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
>
> For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
> as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
> exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
> get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
>
> hope this helps.
> ;-)
>
> In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
> <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
> >
> > Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> > involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> > new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> > years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> > rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> > usually chose to pull out.
> >
> > > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
> >
> > Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> > "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> > There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> > sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
> >
> > -Bill Kearney
> >
balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
In article <031220041652181703%RhmpL33@nospam.net>, Rich Hampel
<RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote:
> GM offers a "4X4" pan which has to be ordered separately when you buy
> the 3.4 as a 'crate engine' for installation into a Jeep XJ. the
> standard crate 3.4 has a 'deep sump' oil pan.
>
> The 3.4 crate engine (PN 12363230) comes with the 'standard' oil pan PN
> 1007899. To fit this to a 4x4 you also need to order the 4x4 (shallow
> sump) pan - PN 10099979.... then you need to 'move some metal' with a
> ball peen to remove intereference with the front diff housing - the
> axel will clear but not the corner of the diff case. You will also
> need to alter the suction screen position of the oil pump ---- hope you
> still have the old 2.8 laying around ... just swap the bottom plate and
> suction tube on the 2.8 oilpump into the 3.4.
>
> For the 4x4 pan conversion the standard oil drain will have to be moved
> as the standard 4x4 pan wlll have the oil drain interefere with the
> exhaust pipe.... you wont ever be able to open the drain ... or just
> get a retrofit auto trans oil drain adapter and be done with it.
>
> hope this helps.
> ;-)
>
> In article <goqdnREYBZ35_i3cRVn-pQ@speakeasy.net>, wkearney99
> <wkearney99@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > this engine (both the 2.8 and the 3.4) is notorious for leaking
> > > distributor bases. Anytime you remove the distributor you should
> > > replace the O-ring seal thats in the groove at the base of the
> > > distributor. After about 30K miles (due to the hot metal the O-ring
> > > will harden, will loose its resiliancy and will allow oil to pass
> >
> > Hmmm, that's good to know. I'll take a closer look at it to see if that's
> > involved in the leak. I've not done anything to the distributor since the
> > new engine was installed. It's been about 15k miles since the swap; about 6
> > years ago, so I suppose it could be degraded. Given it's placement at the
> > rear of the engine amidst a rats nest of wiring it's not something I'd
> > usually chose to pull out.
> >
> > > For the pan/axel intereference, take a ball-peen hammer and bump block
> > > and move (deform) the metal of the pan where it would crash into the
> > > front differential when the axle springs are compressed. Take your
> > > time and keep tap-tap-taping with peen hammer until you have a smooth
> > > and large dimple to clear the diff. & axle.
> >
> > Anyone make a pan that's already setup to avoid this problem? How about
> > "doing something" to the axle to help it avoid being able to wreck the pan?
> > There are a couple of bump-stops on the frame rails above the axles and I'm
> > sure they're due for replacement. Heh, perhaps a lift kit!
> >
> > -Bill Kearney
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: oil pan for 3.4 in an XJ?
"Rich Hampel" <RhmpL33@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:031220041700380380%RhmpL33@nospam.net...
> I assume you DID change the flex plate... as the old 2.8 is externally
> balanced the 3.4 is internally balanced and requires a totally
> new/different flex plate ..... or you're going to get 'bodaceous'
> vibrations at high rpm if you didnt also change the flexplate. .
Oh yeah, everything else about the change was fine.
