Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

> The Rubicon Express site says that with their standard 4" spring kit, I'll
> clear the 33x12.5's on my YJ no problem... A friend that installed the
> same kit said that he had to add a 2" body lift to clear. Who's right?<

You should be able to run 33s no problem with the RE 4" kit. With the RE
4.5" kit (has 1" longer shackles) and TJ flares I ran 35s fine without a
body lift. I finally added a Mountain Off Road 1" body lift and now have
enough clearance to run 37s.

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

Longer shackles can do nasty things. Besides tossing the steering
angles off, they allow the springs to over flex. This allows the
springs to 'say' flex out flat or even invert because the shackle will
move 'out' making a longer anchor point as the spring compresses.

The proper shackle for the spring controls this and stops moving when
the spring still has an arch left so it can't over flex.

Some springs apparently need longer shackles or they will bind up on a
heavy flex or that is just a cheap way for them to sell an 'extreme' kit
which is now getting into 'trailer queen' territory.

I would be very careful about mixing and matching lifts....

Mike

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynami...p?folderid=186
>
> RE5515. Comes with shims, but no shackles. A friend told me something about
> possibly needing angle shackles because the springs are "full military
> wrap"?
>
> Carl
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4287DE27.38452CA2@sympatico.ca...
> > I 'think' by some info in another thread that that lift comes with
> > longer shackles and shims?
> >
> > If so, then if yours are the same length and 'better' quality I would
> > just use them.
> >
> > I have YJ shackles in my CJ7 (1" longer only) with stock new Jeep
> > springs arched 2.5" and the shackles affect the steering. It won't self
> > center well after a turn, you have to crank the wheel back to center and
> > I have a slight rear driveshaft vibe with no load on.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > >
> > > So I need to get stock type shackles again? I'll put the 4" kit on with
> the
> > > 33x 12.5's and if I rub I'll probably to a shackle reversal in the front
> > > maybe a 1" shackle in the rear? Then if I MUST, I'll go with a 1 or 2"
> body
> > > lift.
> > >
> > > Carl
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4287CFDA.C2916B35@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You are going to have to be really careful with the alignment with
> > > > longer shackles. Adding two aftermarket lifts together can be
> trouble.
> > > > You have to start messing with shims or try and find an alignment shop
> > > > with shim sets to get it back proper. Some combinations can turn into
> > > > real abortions with the steering control extremely compromised. These
> > > > usually turn into 'trailer queens' that have to be hauled to the trail
> > > > head because they aren't safe over 40 mph.
> > > >
> > > > Now as far as fitting tires, stock 31x10.5's will 'work' on the street
> > > > on some YJ's without too much rub.
> > > >
> > > > You are adding 4"!!!!
> > > >
> > > > I only had to add 3" to have tons of room for 33x9.5's's on my CJ7,
> but
> > > > it can take 31's with no rub.
> > > >
> > > > I would sure try it without the body lift and see what happens. If
> you
> > > > tag at full flex, you can always add a little to the bump stop height
> so
> > > > it hits that before the tire tags.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I belive we did. My YJ now has 1" lift shackles on it.. Will these
> be
> > > > > re-useable when I install the kit?
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:LMednWK5H5lZWhrfRVn-2g@rogers.com...
> > > > > > I can't see needing 4" + 2" to fit 33's on a YJ but anyway...
> > > > > > Be careful messing around with shackles on replacement springs. I
> > > think
> > > > > > we've had this conversation before regarding your XJ.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -Brian
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:4287be49$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > > > > > > The Rubicon Express site says that with thier standard 4" spring
> > > kit,
> > > > > I'll
> > > > > > > clear the 33x12.5's on my YJ no problem... A friend that
> installed
> > > the
> > > > > > > same
> > > > > > > kit said that he had to add a 2" body lift to clear. Who's
> right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > If indeed the 4" spring kit isn't tall enough, can I add a 1"
> > > shackle
> > > > > lift
> > > > > > > and a 1" body lift to clear? I don't like body lifts and want to
> > > stay
> > > > > away
> > > > > > > from them as much as possible.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Carl
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

Longer shackles can do nasty things. Besides tossing the steering
angles off, they allow the springs to over flex. This allows the
springs to 'say' flex out flat or even invert because the shackle will
move 'out' making a longer anchor point as the spring compresses.

The proper shackle for the spring controls this and stops moving when
the spring still has an arch left so it can't over flex.

Some springs apparently need longer shackles or they will bind up on a
heavy flex or that is just a cheap way for them to sell an 'extreme' kit
which is now getting into 'trailer queen' territory.

I would be very careful about mixing and matching lifts....

Mike

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynami...p?folderid=186
>
> RE5515. Comes with shims, but no shackles. A friend told me something about
> possibly needing angle shackles because the springs are "full military
> wrap"?
>
> Carl
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4287DE27.38452CA2@sympatico.ca...
> > I 'think' by some info in another thread that that lift comes with
> > longer shackles and shims?
> >
> > If so, then if yours are the same length and 'better' quality I would
> > just use them.
> >
> > I have YJ shackles in my CJ7 (1" longer only) with stock new Jeep
> > springs arched 2.5" and the shackles affect the steering. It won't self
> > center well after a turn, you have to crank the wheel back to center and
> > I have a slight rear driveshaft vibe with no load on.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > >
> > > So I need to get stock type shackles again? I'll put the 4" kit on with
> the
> > > 33x 12.5's and if I rub I'll probably to a shackle reversal in the front
> > > maybe a 1" shackle in the rear? Then if I MUST, I'll go with a 1 or 2"
> body
> > > lift.
> > >
> > > Carl
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4287CFDA.C2916B35@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You are going to have to be really careful with the alignment with
> > > > longer shackles. Adding two aftermarket lifts together can be
> trouble.
> > > > You have to start messing with shims or try and find an alignment shop
> > > > with shim sets to get it back proper. Some combinations can turn into
> > > > real abortions with the steering control extremely compromised. These
> > > > usually turn into 'trailer queens' that have to be hauled to the trail
> > > > head because they aren't safe over 40 mph.
> > > >
> > > > Now as far as fitting tires, stock 31x10.5's will 'work' on the street
> > > > on some YJ's without too much rub.
> > > >
> > > > You are adding 4"!!!!
> > > >
> > > > I only had to add 3" to have tons of room for 33x9.5's's on my CJ7,
> but
> > > > it can take 31's with no rub.
> > > >
> > > > I would sure try it without the body lift and see what happens. If
> you
> > > > tag at full flex, you can always add a little to the bump stop height
> so
> > > > it hits that before the tire tags.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I belive we did. My YJ now has 1" lift shackles on it.. Will these
> be
> > > > > re-useable when I install the kit?
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:LMednWK5H5lZWhrfRVn-2g@rogers.com...
> > > > > > I can't see needing 4" + 2" to fit 33's on a YJ but anyway...
> > > > > > Be careful messing around with shackles on replacement springs. I
> > > think
> > > > > > we've had this conversation before regarding your XJ.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -Brian
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:4287be49$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > > > > > > The Rubicon Express site says that with thier standard 4" spring
> > > kit,
> > > > > I'll
> > > > > > > clear the 33x12.5's on my YJ no problem... A friend that
> installed
> > > the
> > > > > > > same
> > > > > > > kit said that he had to add a 2" body lift to clear. Who's
> right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > If indeed the 4" spring kit isn't tall enough, can I add a 1"
> > > shackle
> > > > > lift
> > > > > > > and a 1" body lift to clear? I don't like body lifts and want to
> > > stay
> > > > > away
> > > > > > > from them as much as possible.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Carl
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

Longer shackles can do nasty things. Besides tossing the steering
angles off, they allow the springs to over flex. This allows the
springs to 'say' flex out flat or even invert because the shackle will
move 'out' making a longer anchor point as the spring compresses.

The proper shackle for the spring controls this and stops moving when
the spring still has an arch left so it can't over flex.

Some springs apparently need longer shackles or they will bind up on a
heavy flex or that is just a cheap way for them to sell an 'extreme' kit
which is now getting into 'trailer queen' territory.

I would be very careful about mixing and matching lifts....

Mike

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynami...p?folderid=186
>
> RE5515. Comes with shims, but no shackles. A friend told me something about
> possibly needing angle shackles because the springs are "full military
> wrap"?
>
> Carl
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4287DE27.38452CA2@sympatico.ca...
> > I 'think' by some info in another thread that that lift comes with
> > longer shackles and shims?
> >
> > If so, then if yours are the same length and 'better' quality I would
> > just use them.
> >
> > I have YJ shackles in my CJ7 (1" longer only) with stock new Jeep
> > springs arched 2.5" and the shackles affect the steering. It won't self
> > center well after a turn, you have to crank the wheel back to center and
> > I have a slight rear driveshaft vibe with no load on.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > >
> > > So I need to get stock type shackles again? I'll put the 4" kit on with
> the
> > > 33x 12.5's and if I rub I'll probably to a shackle reversal in the front
> > > maybe a 1" shackle in the rear? Then if I MUST, I'll go with a 1 or 2"
> body
> > > lift.
> > >
> > > Carl
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4287CFDA.C2916B35@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You are going to have to be really careful with the alignment with
> > > > longer shackles. Adding two aftermarket lifts together can be
> trouble.
> > > > You have to start messing with shims or try and find an alignment shop
> > > > with shim sets to get it back proper. Some combinations can turn into
> > > > real abortions with the steering control extremely compromised. These
> > > > usually turn into 'trailer queens' that have to be hauled to the trail
> > > > head because they aren't safe over 40 mph.
> > > >
> > > > Now as far as fitting tires, stock 31x10.5's will 'work' on the street
> > > > on some YJ's without too much rub.
> > > >
> > > > You are adding 4"!!!!
> > > >
> > > > I only had to add 3" to have tons of room for 33x9.5's's on my CJ7,
> but
> > > > it can take 31's with no rub.
> > > >
> > > > I would sure try it without the body lift and see what happens. If
> you
> > > > tag at full flex, you can always add a little to the bump stop height
> so
> > > > it hits that before the tire tags.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I belive we did. My YJ now has 1" lift shackles on it.. Will these
> be
> > > > > re-useable when I install the kit?
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:LMednWK5H5lZWhrfRVn-2g@rogers.com...
> > > > > > I can't see needing 4" + 2" to fit 33's on a YJ but anyway...
> > > > > > Be careful messing around with shackles on replacement springs. I
> > > think
> > > > > > we've had this conversation before regarding your XJ.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -Brian
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:4287be49$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > > > > > > The Rubicon Express site says that with thier standard 4" spring
> > > kit,
> > > > > I'll
> > > > > > > clear the 33x12.5's on my YJ no problem... A friend that
> installed
> > > the
> > > > > > > same
> > > > > > > kit said that he had to add a 2" body lift to clear. Who's
> right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > If indeed the 4" spring kit isn't tall enough, can I add a 1"
> > > shackle
> > > > > lift
> > > > > > > and a 1" body lift to clear? I don't like body lifts and want to
> > > stay
> > > > > away
> > > > > > > from them as much as possible.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Carl
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

Longer shackles can do nasty things. Besides tossing the steering
angles off, they allow the springs to over flex. This allows the
springs to 'say' flex out flat or even invert because the shackle will
move 'out' making a longer anchor point as the spring compresses.

The proper shackle for the spring controls this and stops moving when
the spring still has an arch left so it can't over flex.

Some springs apparently need longer shackles or they will bind up on a
heavy flex or that is just a cheap way for them to sell an 'extreme' kit
which is now getting into 'trailer queen' territory.

I would be very careful about mixing and matching lifts....

Mike

Carl Saiyed wrote:
>
> http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynami...p?folderid=186
>
> RE5515. Comes with shims, but no shackles. A friend told me something about
> possibly needing angle shackles because the springs are "full military
> wrap"?
>
> Carl
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4287DE27.38452CA2@sympatico.ca...
> > I 'think' by some info in another thread that that lift comes with
> > longer shackles and shims?
> >
> > If so, then if yours are the same length and 'better' quality I would
> > just use them.
> >
> > I have YJ shackles in my CJ7 (1" longer only) with stock new Jeep
> > springs arched 2.5" and the shackles affect the steering. It won't self
> > center well after a turn, you have to crank the wheel back to center and
> > I have a slight rear driveshaft vibe with no load on.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > >
> > > So I need to get stock type shackles again? I'll put the 4" kit on with
> the
> > > 33x 12.5's and if I rub I'll probably to a shackle reversal in the front
> > > maybe a 1" shackle in the rear? Then if I MUST, I'll go with a 1 or 2"
> body
> > > lift.
> > >
> > > Carl
> > >
> > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:4287CFDA.C2916B35@sympatico.ca...
> > > > You are going to have to be really careful with the alignment with
> > > > longer shackles. Adding two aftermarket lifts together can be
> trouble.
> > > > You have to start messing with shims or try and find an alignment shop
> > > > with shim sets to get it back proper. Some combinations can turn into
> > > > real abortions with the steering control extremely compromised. These
> > > > usually turn into 'trailer queens' that have to be hauled to the trail
> > > > head because they aren't safe over 40 mph.
> > > >
> > > > Now as far as fitting tires, stock 31x10.5's will 'work' on the street
> > > > on some YJ's without too much rub.
> > > >
> > > > You are adding 4"!!!!
> > > >
> > > > I only had to add 3" to have tons of room for 33x9.5's's on my CJ7,
> but
> > > > it can take 31's with no rub.
> > > >
> > > > I would sure try it without the body lift and see what happens. If
> you
> > > > tag at full flex, you can always add a little to the bump stop height
> so
> > > > it hits that before the tire tags.
> > > >
> > > > Mike
> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > >
> > > > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I belive we did. My YJ now has 1" lift shackles on it.. Will these
> be
> > > > > re-useable when I install the kit?
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl
> > > > >
> > > > > "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:LMednWK5H5lZWhrfRVn-2g@rogers.com...
> > > > > > I can't see needing 4" + 2" to fit 33's on a YJ but anyway...
> > > > > > Be careful messing around with shackles on replacement springs. I
> > > think
> > > > > > we've had this conversation before regarding your XJ.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -Brian
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:4287be49$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > > > > > > The Rubicon Express site says that with thier standard 4" spring
> > > kit,
> > > > > I'll
> > > > > > > clear the 33x12.5's on my YJ no problem... A friend that
> installed
> > > the
> > > > > > > same
> > > > > > > kit said that he had to add a 2" body lift to clear. Who's
> right?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > If indeed the 4" spring kit isn't tall enough, can I add a 1"
> > > shackle
> > > > > lift
> > > > > > > and a 1" body lift to clear? I don't like body lifts and want to
> > > stay
> > > > > away
> > > > > > > from them as much as possible.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Carl
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

> Or is it worth it to step up to the RE5520?>

Perhaps. The 5520 kit (4.5" Extreme Duty) uses a completely different spring
formula tuned to 1" longer shackles. It comes with more components, but not
with shocks, which RE now prefers to custom tailor to your use when you
order. Mine came with the DT 3000s, which were too weak for the weight of my
axles (Dynatrac D44 & D60).

From personal experience I highly recommend the 5520 kit. Several of us
locally are using it with great success. The street and trail ride quality
is outstanding and they flex like mad on the rocks. I've had one installed
on my YJ since '02 and generally beaten the crap out of it without any
issues whatsoever. It's only settled maybe 1/4" since new and provides a
measured average 5 3/8" lift.

Best I can remember, the 5515 kit is actually a Pro Comp 4" lift, which RE
sources from 4 Wheel Parts. Don't hold me to this, however, as that info
came from Avalanche several years ago and I dont know anyone running the
5515 kit. (FWIW, Pro Comp leaft spring kits are notoriously stiff with poor
flex.)

Both of the kits come with transfer case drop spacers, but really need to be
installed with an SYE & CV rear driveshaft, as would any 4" lift on a YJ.
Also, the 5520 kit's longer front shackles require the front end to be
shimmed (or the spring pads cut & relocated) to get the caster back into
spec. RE ships 2 sets of Pro Comp aluminum 2.5 degree shims with the 5520
kit, one set to be used in the rear to compensate pinion angle, the other
set for the front to set the caster. I would never use or recommend aluminum
shims to begin with, much less on the front axle. They crack over time &
will get spit out. It's one thing for that to happen in the rear, another
thing altogether should it happen up front. For the front axle on my YJ I
sourced 2 degree steel shims from Poison Spyder Customs and they've worked
like a charm.

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

> Or is it worth it to step up to the RE5520?>

Perhaps. The 5520 kit (4.5" Extreme Duty) uses a completely different spring
formula tuned to 1" longer shackles. It comes with more components, but not
with shocks, which RE now prefers to custom tailor to your use when you
order. Mine came with the DT 3000s, which were too weak for the weight of my
axles (Dynatrac D44 & D60).

From personal experience I highly recommend the 5520 kit. Several of us
locally are using it with great success. The street and trail ride quality
is outstanding and they flex like mad on the rocks. I've had one installed
on my YJ since '02 and generally beaten the crap out of it without any
issues whatsoever. It's only settled maybe 1/4" since new and provides a
measured average 5 3/8" lift.

Best I can remember, the 5515 kit is actually a Pro Comp 4" lift, which RE
sources from 4 Wheel Parts. Don't hold me to this, however, as that info
came from Avalanche several years ago and I dont know anyone running the
5515 kit. (FWIW, Pro Comp leaft spring kits are notoriously stiff with poor
flex.)

Both of the kits come with transfer case drop spacers, but really need to be
installed with an SYE & CV rear driveshaft, as would any 4" lift on a YJ.
Also, the 5520 kit's longer front shackles require the front end to be
shimmed (or the spring pads cut & relocated) to get the caster back into
spec. RE ships 2 sets of Pro Comp aluminum 2.5 degree shims with the 5520
kit, one set to be used in the rear to compensate pinion angle, the other
set for the front to set the caster. I would never use or recommend aluminum
shims to begin with, much less on the front axle. They crack over time &
will get spit out. It's one thing for that to happen in the rear, another
thing altogether should it happen up front. For the front axle on my YJ I
sourced 2 degree steel shims from Poison Spyder Customs and they've worked
like a charm.

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

> Or is it worth it to step up to the RE5520?>

Perhaps. The 5520 kit (4.5" Extreme Duty) uses a completely different spring
formula tuned to 1" longer shackles. It comes with more components, but not
with shocks, which RE now prefers to custom tailor to your use when you
order. Mine came with the DT 3000s, which were too weak for the weight of my
axles (Dynatrac D44 & D60).

From personal experience I highly recommend the 5520 kit. Several of us
locally are using it with great success. The street and trail ride quality
is outstanding and they flex like mad on the rocks. I've had one installed
on my YJ since '02 and generally beaten the crap out of it without any
issues whatsoever. It's only settled maybe 1/4" since new and provides a
measured average 5 3/8" lift.

Best I can remember, the 5515 kit is actually a Pro Comp 4" lift, which RE
sources from 4 Wheel Parts. Don't hold me to this, however, as that info
came from Avalanche several years ago and I dont know anyone running the
5515 kit. (FWIW, Pro Comp leaft spring kits are notoriously stiff with poor
flex.)

Both of the kits come with transfer case drop spacers, but really need to be
installed with an SYE & CV rear driveshaft, as would any 4" lift on a YJ.
Also, the 5520 kit's longer front shackles require the front end to be
shimmed (or the spring pads cut & relocated) to get the caster back into
spec. RE ships 2 sets of Pro Comp aluminum 2.5 degree shims with the 5520
kit, one set to be used in the rear to compensate pinion angle, the other
set for the front to set the caster. I would never use or recommend aluminum
shims to begin with, much less on the front axle. They crack over time &
will get spit out. It's one thing for that to happen in the rear, another
thing altogether should it happen up front. For the front axle on my YJ I
sourced 2 degree steel shims from Poison Spyder Customs and they've worked
like a charm.

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

> Or is it worth it to step up to the RE5520?>

Perhaps. The 5520 kit (4.5" Extreme Duty) uses a completely different spring
formula tuned to 1" longer shackles. It comes with more components, but not
with shocks, which RE now prefers to custom tailor to your use when you
order. Mine came with the DT 3000s, which were too weak for the weight of my
axles (Dynatrac D44 & D60).

From personal experience I highly recommend the 5520 kit. Several of us
locally are using it with great success. The street and trail ride quality
is outstanding and they flex like mad on the rocks. I've had one installed
on my YJ since '02 and generally beaten the crap out of it without any
issues whatsoever. It's only settled maybe 1/4" since new and provides a
measured average 5 3/8" lift.

Best I can remember, the 5515 kit is actually a Pro Comp 4" lift, which RE
sources from 4 Wheel Parts. Don't hold me to this, however, as that info
came from Avalanche several years ago and I dont know anyone running the
5515 kit. (FWIW, Pro Comp leaft spring kits are notoriously stiff with poor
flex.)

Both of the kits come with transfer case drop spacers, but really need to be
installed with an SYE & CV rear driveshaft, as would any 4" lift on a YJ.
Also, the 5520 kit's longer front shackles require the front end to be
shimmed (or the spring pads cut & relocated) to get the caster back into
spec. RE ships 2 sets of Pro Comp aluminum 2.5 degree shims with the 5520
kit, one set to be used in the rear to compensate pinion angle, the other
set for the front to set the caster. I would never use or recommend aluminum
shims to begin with, much less on the front axle. They crack over time &
will get spit out. It's one thing for that to happen in the rear, another
thing altogether should it happen up front. For the front axle on my YJ I
sourced 2 degree steel shims from Poison Spyder Customs and they've worked
like a charm.

Re: Now another lift quesiton..
 

Thanks, Mike and SoK66. I'll step up to the RE5520. I'll also try to upgrade
to Rubicon Monotubes when I order the kit. I don't want to mix shackles, and
the RE5520 comes with new shackles.

Carl


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4288901B.949D120@sympatico.ca...
> Longer shackles can do nasty things. Besides tossing the steering
> angles off, they allow the springs to over flex. This allows the
> springs to 'say' flex out flat or even invert because the shackle will
> move 'out' making a longer anchor point as the spring compresses.
>
> The proper shackle for the spring controls this and stops moving when
> the spring still has an arch left so it can't over flex.
>
> Some springs apparently need longer shackles or they will bind up on a
> heavy flex or that is just a cheap way for them to sell an 'extreme' kit
> which is now getting into 'trailer queen' territory.
>
> I would be very careful about mixing and matching lifts....
>
> Mike
>
> Carl Saiyed wrote:
> >
> > http://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynami...p?folderid=186
> >
> > RE5515. Comes with shims, but no shackles. A friend told me something
about
> > possibly needing angle shackles because the springs are "full military
> > wrap"?
> >
> > Carl
> >
> > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > news:4287DE27.38452CA2@sympatico.ca...
> > > I 'think' by some info in another thread that that lift comes with
> > > longer shackles and shims?
> > >
> > > If so, then if yours are the same length and 'better' quality I would
> > > just use them.
> > >
> > > I have YJ shackles in my CJ7 (1" longer only) with stock new Jeep
> > > springs arched 2.5" and the shackles affect the steering. It won't
self
> > > center well after a turn, you have to crank the wheel back to center
and
> > > I have a slight rear driveshaft vibe with no load on.
> > >
> > > Mike
> > >
> > > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > > >
> > > > So I need to get stock type shackles again? I'll put the 4" kit on
with
> > the
> > > > 33x 12.5's and if I rub I'll probably to a shackle reversal in the
front
> > > > maybe a 1" shackle in the rear? Then if I MUST, I'll go with a 1 or
2"
> > body
> > > > lift.
> > > >
> > > > Carl
> > > >
> > > > "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:4287CFDA.C2916B35@sympatico.ca...
> > > > > You are going to have to be really careful with the alignment with
> > > > > longer shackles. Adding two aftermarket lifts together can be
> > trouble.
> > > > > You have to start messing with shims or try and find an alignment
shop
> > > > > with shim sets to get it back proper. Some combinations can turn
into
> > > > > real abortions with the steering control extremely compromised.
These
> > > > > usually turn into 'trailer queens' that have to be hauled to the
trail
> > > > > head because they aren't safe over 40 mph.
> > > > >
> > > > > Now as far as fitting tires, stock 31x10.5's will 'work' on the
street
> > > > > on some YJ's without too much rub.
> > > > >
> > > > > You are adding 4"!!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > I only had to add 3" to have tons of room for 33x9.5's's on my
CJ7,
> > but
> > > > > it can take 31's with no rub.
> > > > >
> > > > > I would sure try it without the body lift and see what happens.
If
> > you
> > > > > tag at full flex, you can always add a little to the bump stop
height
> > so
> > > > > it hits that before the tire tags.
> > > > >
> > > > > Mike
> > > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > > > >
> > > > > Carl Saiyed wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I belive we did. My YJ now has 1" lift shackles on it.. Will
these
> > be
> > > > > > re-useable when I install the kit?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Carl
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Cherokee-Ltd" <nospam@home.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:LMednWK5H5lZWhrfRVn-2g@rogers.com...
> > > > > > > I can't see needing 4" + 2" to fit 33's on a YJ but anyway...
> > > > > > > Be careful messing around with shackles on replacement
springs. I
> > > > think
> > > > > > > we've had this conversation before regarding your XJ.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > -Brian
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Carl Saiyed" <carlsaiyed@REMOVEhotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:4287be49$1_1@newsfeed.slurp.net...
> > > > > > > > The Rubicon Express site says that with thier standard 4"
spring
> > > > kit,
> > > > > > I'll
> > > > > > > > clear the 33x12.5's on my YJ no problem... A friend that
> > installed
> > > > the
> > > > > > > > same
> > > > > > > > kit said that he had to add a 2" body lift to clear. Who's
> > right?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > If indeed the 4" spring kit isn't tall enough, can I add a
1"
> > > > shackle
> > > > > > lift
> > > > > > > > and a 1" body lift to clear? I don't like body lifts and
want to
> > > > stay
> > > > > > away
> > > > > > > > from them as much as possible.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Carl
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >