No Ported Vacuum
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Steve, put the timing where it should be and it will help the NOx readings
some. The CO might go up a little, but obviously you're ok there now. The
EGR more than likely does not function at 15 and 25 MPH even when things are
working properly. The main design function of the EGR was to reduce HC
emissions, but it might also help NOx somewhat. Like I said though, at the
vehicle speed they are testing, I'm pretty sure the EGR is not doing
anything. They are designed to open at higher speeds. If your EGR opens at
low speed, your drivability will suffer dramatically. The other thing that
causes many people to fail emissions testing is a catalytic converter that
is too cold. If you can, take the vehicle for a good highway run right
before you get to the test station and I would venture a guess that you will
pass your test even with a non-functioning EGR.
Chris
"steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
news:b9xdf.26151$6e1.3342@newssvr14.news.prodigy.c om...
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
(max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
>
>
some. The CO might go up a little, but obviously you're ok there now. The
EGR more than likely does not function at 15 and 25 MPH even when things are
working properly. The main design function of the EGR was to reduce HC
emissions, but it might also help NOx somewhat. Like I said though, at the
vehicle speed they are testing, I'm pretty sure the EGR is not doing
anything. They are designed to open at higher speeds. If your EGR opens at
low speed, your drivability will suffer dramatically. The other thing that
causes many people to fail emissions testing is a catalytic converter that
is too cold. If you can, take the vehicle for a good highway run right
before you get to the test station and I would venture a guess that you will
pass your test even with a non-functioning EGR.
Chris
"steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
news:b9xdf.26151$6e1.3342@newssvr14.news.prodigy.c om...
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
(max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
>
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Now we are getting closer I think....
You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
cause.
What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
some more answers or fixes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
steve wrote:
>
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph (max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0 btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
cause.
What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
some more answers or fixes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
steve wrote:
>
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph (max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0 btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Now we are getting closer I think....
You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
cause.
What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
some more answers or fixes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
steve wrote:
>
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph (max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0 btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
cause.
What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
some more answers or fixes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
steve wrote:
>
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph (max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0 btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Now we are getting closer I think....
You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
cause.
What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
some more answers or fixes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
steve wrote:
>
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph (max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0 btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
cause.
What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
some more answers or fixes.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
steve wrote:
>
> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into the
> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the crankcase
> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The hydrocarbons
> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph (max
> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0 btdc.
> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am woried
> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not strong
> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to adjust
> timing without a timing light?
>
> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>
> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked the
> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> > have any ideas why?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Steve
> >
> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Mike,
The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
Thanks,
Steve
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> Now we are getting closer I think....
>
> You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> cause.
>
> What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
>
> What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
>
> Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
>
> The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
>
> The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
>
> Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> some more answers or fixes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
>> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
>> the
>> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
>> crankcase
>> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
>> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
>> hydrocarbons
>> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
>> (max
>> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
>> btdc.
>> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
>> woried
>> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
>> strong
>> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
>> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
>> adjust
>> timing without a timing light?
>>
>> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>>
>> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
>> > Hi All,
>> >
>> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
>> > the
>> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
>> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
>> > have any ideas why?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance,
>> > Steve
>> >
>> >
The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
Thanks,
Steve
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> Now we are getting closer I think....
>
> You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> cause.
>
> What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
>
> What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
>
> Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
>
> The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
>
> The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
>
> Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> some more answers or fixes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
>> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
>> the
>> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
>> crankcase
>> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
>> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
>> hydrocarbons
>> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
>> (max
>> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
>> btdc.
>> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
>> woried
>> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
>> strong
>> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
>> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
>> adjust
>> timing without a timing light?
>>
>> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>>
>> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
>> > Hi All,
>> >
>> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
>> > the
>> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
>> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
>> > have any ideas why?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance,
>> > Steve
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Mike,
The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
Thanks,
Steve
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> Now we are getting closer I think....
>
> You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> cause.
>
> What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
>
> What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
>
> Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
>
> The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
>
> The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
>
> Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> some more answers or fixes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
>> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
>> the
>> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
>> crankcase
>> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
>> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
>> hydrocarbons
>> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
>> (max
>> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
>> btdc.
>> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
>> woried
>> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
>> strong
>> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
>> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
>> adjust
>> timing without a timing light?
>>
>> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>>
>> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
>> > Hi All,
>> >
>> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
>> > the
>> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
>> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
>> > have any ideas why?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance,
>> > Steve
>> >
>> >
The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
Thanks,
Steve
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> Now we are getting closer I think....
>
> You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> cause.
>
> What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
>
> What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
>
> Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
>
> The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
>
> The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
>
> Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> some more answers or fixes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
>> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
>> the
>> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
>> crankcase
>> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
>> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
>> hydrocarbons
>> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
>> (max
>> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
>> btdc.
>> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
>> woried
>> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
>> strong
>> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
>> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
>> adjust
>> timing without a timing light?
>>
>> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>>
>> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
>> > Hi All,
>> >
>> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
>> > the
>> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
>> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
>> > have any ideas why?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance,
>> > Steve
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
Mike,
The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
Thanks,
Steve
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> Now we are getting closer I think....
>
> You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> cause.
>
> What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
>
> What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
>
> Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
>
> The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
>
> The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
>
> Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> some more answers or fixes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
>> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
>> the
>> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
>> crankcase
>> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
>> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
>> hydrocarbons
>> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
>> (max
>> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
>> btdc.
>> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
>> woried
>> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
>> strong
>> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
>> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
>> adjust
>> timing without a timing light?
>>
>> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>>
>> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
>> > Hi All,
>> >
>> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
>> > the
>> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
>> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
>> > have any ideas why?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance,
>> > Steve
>> >
>> >
The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
Thanks,
Steve
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> Now we are getting closer I think....
>
> You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> cause.
>
> What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
>
> What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
>
> Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
>
> The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
>
> The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
>
> Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> some more answers or fixes.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> steve wrote:
>>
>> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
>> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
>> the
>> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
>> crankcase
>> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
>> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
>> hydrocarbons
>> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
>> (max
>> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
>> btdc.
>> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
>> woried
>> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
>> strong
>> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
>> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
>> adjust
>> timing without a timing light?
>>
>> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
>>
>> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
>> > Hi All,
>> >
>> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
>> > the
>> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
>> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
>> > have any ideas why?
>> >
>> > Thanks in advance,
>> > Steve
>> >
>> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
The reason the crankcase 'intake' line from the air filter to the engine
is puking out oil is because the PCV isn't working. The PCV sucks air
out of the valve cover into the intake manifold. This air comes from
the air filter to the back of the valve cover and circulates through the
PCV.
The reason the PCV isn't working is because there isn't enough manifold
vacuum due to a blown charcoal canister purge valve or a dead solenoid
switch or line (see below for explanation).
The reason the ported vacuum and EGR isn't working right is because of
low manifold vacuum.
Your timing advance also isn't working right which will blow your
emissions readings.
Lets start with some basics and see if you can get it purring again.
You can 'temporarily' disconnect the canister, but it 'is' the gas tank
and carb float bowl vent so if you block the wrong things, the Jeep will
act like it wants to run out of gas. A vacuum will build up on the gas
tank.
This also will happen as the charcoal gets saturated with fumes because
of no purge and as the air filter on the bottom of the canister gets
plugged. The air filter is only a couple bucks but is a real SOB to get
the first one out of the canister. Ya gotta dig it out.
The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. If not, it is cheap and needs
to be replaced.
Then follow the PCV line along the valve cover making sure the 90 degree
elbow is still good. I replaced that part with a copper tube bent to a
90 on mine.
Then the PCV line comes to a solenoid thing at the back of the carb.
This solenoid never worked properly and the factory fix is to toss it
away and replace it with a normal T fitting.
Off this T fitting, one line goes to the base of the carb and the other
line goes to the canister top. This is the vacuum purge line from the
canister to the PCV system. This large line to the top of the canister
needs to be blocked at the carb end. It is letting out the manifold
vacuum.
For 'temporary' use this line to the canister can be unplugged at the
carb end and the PCV line just put directly onto the carb base nipple.
That gives the PCV direct manifold vacuum and shuts off the canister.
You then need to unplug one of the other large lines going to the top of
the canister. I usually unplug the one leading to the carb float bowl.
The other goes to the gas tank.
This will relieve pressure on the canister so you don't act like you run
out of gas but will allow gas fumes to escape when it sits. No real
getting around the gas fumes, that is what the canister is for anyway.
The 'best' fix is to replace the canister.... Anything up to a 91 will
work.
As to the timing, the computer controls it according to how much vacuum
it sees. The vacuum switches sit on top of the valve cover or on the
center firewall. There are two of them side by side. If these are
electrically unplugged for any reason, the timing will jump about 8
degrees or back to 0 like you see and the idle will drop. This also
happens when you unplug the computer.
Mike
steve wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
> but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
> is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> > Now we are getting closer I think....
> >
> > You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> > blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> > and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> > advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> > cause.
> >
> > What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> > that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
> >
> > What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> > line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
> >
> > Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
> >
> > The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> > the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> > piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
> >
> > The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> > You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> > basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> > and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> > vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
> >
> > Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> > some more answers or fixes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> >> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
> >> the
> >> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
> >> crankcase
> >> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> >> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
> >> hydrocarbons
> >> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
> >> (max
> >> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
> >> btdc.
> >> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
> >> woried
> >> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
> >> strong
> >> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> >> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
> >> adjust
> >> timing without a timing light?
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
> >>
> >> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> >> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> >> > Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
> >> > the
> >> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> >> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> >> > have any ideas why?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Steve
> >> >
> >> >
is puking out oil is because the PCV isn't working. The PCV sucks air
out of the valve cover into the intake manifold. This air comes from
the air filter to the back of the valve cover and circulates through the
PCV.
The reason the PCV isn't working is because there isn't enough manifold
vacuum due to a blown charcoal canister purge valve or a dead solenoid
switch or line (see below for explanation).
The reason the ported vacuum and EGR isn't working right is because of
low manifold vacuum.
Your timing advance also isn't working right which will blow your
emissions readings.
Lets start with some basics and see if you can get it purring again.
You can 'temporarily' disconnect the canister, but it 'is' the gas tank
and carb float bowl vent so if you block the wrong things, the Jeep will
act like it wants to run out of gas. A vacuum will build up on the gas
tank.
This also will happen as the charcoal gets saturated with fumes because
of no purge and as the air filter on the bottom of the canister gets
plugged. The air filter is only a couple bucks but is a real SOB to get
the first one out of the canister. Ya gotta dig it out.
The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. If not, it is cheap and needs
to be replaced.
Then follow the PCV line along the valve cover making sure the 90 degree
elbow is still good. I replaced that part with a copper tube bent to a
90 on mine.
Then the PCV line comes to a solenoid thing at the back of the carb.
This solenoid never worked properly and the factory fix is to toss it
away and replace it with a normal T fitting.
Off this T fitting, one line goes to the base of the carb and the other
line goes to the canister top. This is the vacuum purge line from the
canister to the PCV system. This large line to the top of the canister
needs to be blocked at the carb end. It is letting out the manifold
vacuum.
For 'temporary' use this line to the canister can be unplugged at the
carb end and the PCV line just put directly onto the carb base nipple.
That gives the PCV direct manifold vacuum and shuts off the canister.
You then need to unplug one of the other large lines going to the top of
the canister. I usually unplug the one leading to the carb float bowl.
The other goes to the gas tank.
This will relieve pressure on the canister so you don't act like you run
out of gas but will allow gas fumes to escape when it sits. No real
getting around the gas fumes, that is what the canister is for anyway.
The 'best' fix is to replace the canister.... Anything up to a 91 will
work.
As to the timing, the computer controls it according to how much vacuum
it sees. The vacuum switches sit on top of the valve cover or on the
center firewall. There are two of them side by side. If these are
electrically unplugged for any reason, the timing will jump about 8
degrees or back to 0 like you see and the idle will drop. This also
happens when you unplug the computer.
Mike
steve wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
> but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
> is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> > Now we are getting closer I think....
> >
> > You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> > blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> > and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> > advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> > cause.
> >
> > What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> > that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
> >
> > What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> > line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
> >
> > Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
> >
> > The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> > the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> > piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
> >
> > The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> > You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> > basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> > and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> > vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
> >
> > Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> > some more answers or fixes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> >> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
> >> the
> >> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
> >> crankcase
> >> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> >> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
> >> hydrocarbons
> >> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
> >> (max
> >> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
> >> btdc.
> >> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
> >> woried
> >> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
> >> strong
> >> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> >> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
> >> adjust
> >> timing without a timing light?
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
> >>
> >> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> >> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> >> > Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
> >> > the
> >> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> >> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> >> > have any ideas why?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Steve
> >> >
> >> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
The reason the crankcase 'intake' line from the air filter to the engine
is puking out oil is because the PCV isn't working. The PCV sucks air
out of the valve cover into the intake manifold. This air comes from
the air filter to the back of the valve cover and circulates through the
PCV.
The reason the PCV isn't working is because there isn't enough manifold
vacuum due to a blown charcoal canister purge valve or a dead solenoid
switch or line (see below for explanation).
The reason the ported vacuum and EGR isn't working right is because of
low manifold vacuum.
Your timing advance also isn't working right which will blow your
emissions readings.
Lets start with some basics and see if you can get it purring again.
You can 'temporarily' disconnect the canister, but it 'is' the gas tank
and carb float bowl vent so if you block the wrong things, the Jeep will
act like it wants to run out of gas. A vacuum will build up on the gas
tank.
This also will happen as the charcoal gets saturated with fumes because
of no purge and as the air filter on the bottom of the canister gets
plugged. The air filter is only a couple bucks but is a real SOB to get
the first one out of the canister. Ya gotta dig it out.
The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. If not, it is cheap and needs
to be replaced.
Then follow the PCV line along the valve cover making sure the 90 degree
elbow is still good. I replaced that part with a copper tube bent to a
90 on mine.
Then the PCV line comes to a solenoid thing at the back of the carb.
This solenoid never worked properly and the factory fix is to toss it
away and replace it with a normal T fitting.
Off this T fitting, one line goes to the base of the carb and the other
line goes to the canister top. This is the vacuum purge line from the
canister to the PCV system. This large line to the top of the canister
needs to be blocked at the carb end. It is letting out the manifold
vacuum.
For 'temporary' use this line to the canister can be unplugged at the
carb end and the PCV line just put directly onto the carb base nipple.
That gives the PCV direct manifold vacuum and shuts off the canister.
You then need to unplug one of the other large lines going to the top of
the canister. I usually unplug the one leading to the carb float bowl.
The other goes to the gas tank.
This will relieve pressure on the canister so you don't act like you run
out of gas but will allow gas fumes to escape when it sits. No real
getting around the gas fumes, that is what the canister is for anyway.
The 'best' fix is to replace the canister.... Anything up to a 91 will
work.
As to the timing, the computer controls it according to how much vacuum
it sees. The vacuum switches sit on top of the valve cover or on the
center firewall. There are two of them side by side. If these are
electrically unplugged for any reason, the timing will jump about 8
degrees or back to 0 like you see and the idle will drop. This also
happens when you unplug the computer.
Mike
steve wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
> but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
> is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> > Now we are getting closer I think....
> >
> > You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> > blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> > and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> > advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> > cause.
> >
> > What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> > that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
> >
> > What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> > line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
> >
> > Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
> >
> > The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> > the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> > piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
> >
> > The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> > You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> > basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> > and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> > vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
> >
> > Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> > some more answers or fixes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> >> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
> >> the
> >> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
> >> crankcase
> >> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> >> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
> >> hydrocarbons
> >> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
> >> (max
> >> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
> >> btdc.
> >> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
> >> woried
> >> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
> >> strong
> >> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> >> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
> >> adjust
> >> timing without a timing light?
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
> >>
> >> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> >> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> >> > Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
> >> > the
> >> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> >> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> >> > have any ideas why?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Steve
> >> >
> >> >
is puking out oil is because the PCV isn't working. The PCV sucks air
out of the valve cover into the intake manifold. This air comes from
the air filter to the back of the valve cover and circulates through the
PCV.
The reason the PCV isn't working is because there isn't enough manifold
vacuum due to a blown charcoal canister purge valve or a dead solenoid
switch or line (see below for explanation).
The reason the ported vacuum and EGR isn't working right is because of
low manifold vacuum.
Your timing advance also isn't working right which will blow your
emissions readings.
Lets start with some basics and see if you can get it purring again.
You can 'temporarily' disconnect the canister, but it 'is' the gas tank
and carb float bowl vent so if you block the wrong things, the Jeep will
act like it wants to run out of gas. A vacuum will build up on the gas
tank.
This also will happen as the charcoal gets saturated with fumes because
of no purge and as the air filter on the bottom of the canister gets
plugged. The air filter is only a couple bucks but is a real SOB to get
the first one out of the canister. Ya gotta dig it out.
The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. If not, it is cheap and needs
to be replaced.
Then follow the PCV line along the valve cover making sure the 90 degree
elbow is still good. I replaced that part with a copper tube bent to a
90 on mine.
Then the PCV line comes to a solenoid thing at the back of the carb.
This solenoid never worked properly and the factory fix is to toss it
away and replace it with a normal T fitting.
Off this T fitting, one line goes to the base of the carb and the other
line goes to the canister top. This is the vacuum purge line from the
canister to the PCV system. This large line to the top of the canister
needs to be blocked at the carb end. It is letting out the manifold
vacuum.
For 'temporary' use this line to the canister can be unplugged at the
carb end and the PCV line just put directly onto the carb base nipple.
That gives the PCV direct manifold vacuum and shuts off the canister.
You then need to unplug one of the other large lines going to the top of
the canister. I usually unplug the one leading to the carb float bowl.
The other goes to the gas tank.
This will relieve pressure on the canister so you don't act like you run
out of gas but will allow gas fumes to escape when it sits. No real
getting around the gas fumes, that is what the canister is for anyway.
The 'best' fix is to replace the canister.... Anything up to a 91 will
work.
As to the timing, the computer controls it according to how much vacuum
it sees. The vacuum switches sit on top of the valve cover or on the
center firewall. There are two of them side by side. If these are
electrically unplugged for any reason, the timing will jump about 8
degrees or back to 0 like you see and the idle will drop. This also
happens when you unplug the computer.
Mike
steve wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
> but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
> is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> > Now we are getting closer I think....
> >
> > You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> > blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> > and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> > advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> > cause.
> >
> > What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> > that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
> >
> > What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> > line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
> >
> > Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
> >
> > The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> > the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> > piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
> >
> > The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> > You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> > basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> > and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> > vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
> >
> > Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> > some more answers or fixes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> >> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
> >> the
> >> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
> >> crankcase
> >> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> >> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
> >> hydrocarbons
> >> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
> >> (max
> >> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
> >> btdc.
> >> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
> >> woried
> >> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
> >> strong
> >> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> >> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
> >> adjust
> >> timing without a timing light?
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
> >>
> >> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> >> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> >> > Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
> >> > the
> >> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> >> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> >> > have any ideas why?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Steve
> >> >
> >> >
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: No Ported Vacuum
The reason the crankcase 'intake' line from the air filter to the engine
is puking out oil is because the PCV isn't working. The PCV sucks air
out of the valve cover into the intake manifold. This air comes from
the air filter to the back of the valve cover and circulates through the
PCV.
The reason the PCV isn't working is because there isn't enough manifold
vacuum due to a blown charcoal canister purge valve or a dead solenoid
switch or line (see below for explanation).
The reason the ported vacuum and EGR isn't working right is because of
low manifold vacuum.
Your timing advance also isn't working right which will blow your
emissions readings.
Lets start with some basics and see if you can get it purring again.
You can 'temporarily' disconnect the canister, but it 'is' the gas tank
and carb float bowl vent so if you block the wrong things, the Jeep will
act like it wants to run out of gas. A vacuum will build up on the gas
tank.
This also will happen as the charcoal gets saturated with fumes because
of no purge and as the air filter on the bottom of the canister gets
plugged. The air filter is only a couple bucks but is a real SOB to get
the first one out of the canister. Ya gotta dig it out.
The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. If not, it is cheap and needs
to be replaced.
Then follow the PCV line along the valve cover making sure the 90 degree
elbow is still good. I replaced that part with a copper tube bent to a
90 on mine.
Then the PCV line comes to a solenoid thing at the back of the carb.
This solenoid never worked properly and the factory fix is to toss it
away and replace it with a normal T fitting.
Off this T fitting, one line goes to the base of the carb and the other
line goes to the canister top. This is the vacuum purge line from the
canister to the PCV system. This large line to the top of the canister
needs to be blocked at the carb end. It is letting out the manifold
vacuum.
For 'temporary' use this line to the canister can be unplugged at the
carb end and the PCV line just put directly onto the carb base nipple.
That gives the PCV direct manifold vacuum and shuts off the canister.
You then need to unplug one of the other large lines going to the top of
the canister. I usually unplug the one leading to the carb float bowl.
The other goes to the gas tank.
This will relieve pressure on the canister so you don't act like you run
out of gas but will allow gas fumes to escape when it sits. No real
getting around the gas fumes, that is what the canister is for anyway.
The 'best' fix is to replace the canister.... Anything up to a 91 will
work.
As to the timing, the computer controls it according to how much vacuum
it sees. The vacuum switches sit on top of the valve cover or on the
center firewall. There are two of them side by side. If these are
electrically unplugged for any reason, the timing will jump about 8
degrees or back to 0 like you see and the idle will drop. This also
happens when you unplug the computer.
Mike
steve wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
> but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
> is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> > Now we are getting closer I think....
> >
> > You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> > blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> > and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> > advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> > cause.
> >
> > What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> > that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
> >
> > What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> > line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
> >
> > Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
> >
> > The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> > the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> > piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
> >
> > The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> > You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> > basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> > and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> > vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
> >
> > Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> > some more answers or fixes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> >> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
> >> the
> >> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
> >> crankcase
> >> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> >> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
> >> hydrocarbons
> >> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
> >> (max
> >> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
> >> btdc.
> >> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
> >> woried
> >> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
> >> strong
> >> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> >> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
> >> adjust
> >> timing without a timing light?
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
> >>
> >> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> >> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> >> > Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
> >> > the
> >> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> >> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> >> > have any ideas why?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Steve
> >> >
> >> >
is puking out oil is because the PCV isn't working. The PCV sucks air
out of the valve cover into the intake manifold. This air comes from
the air filter to the back of the valve cover and circulates through the
PCV.
The reason the PCV isn't working is because there isn't enough manifold
vacuum due to a blown charcoal canister purge valve or a dead solenoid
switch or line (see below for explanation).
The reason the ported vacuum and EGR isn't working right is because of
low manifold vacuum.
Your timing advance also isn't working right which will blow your
emissions readings.
Lets start with some basics and see if you can get it purring again.
You can 'temporarily' disconnect the canister, but it 'is' the gas tank
and carb float bowl vent so if you block the wrong things, the Jeep will
act like it wants to run out of gas. A vacuum will build up on the gas
tank.
This also will happen as the charcoal gets saturated with fumes because
of no purge and as the air filter on the bottom of the canister gets
plugged. The air filter is only a couple bucks but is a real SOB to get
the first one out of the canister. Ya gotta dig it out.
The PCV valve should rattle when shaken. If not, it is cheap and needs
to be replaced.
Then follow the PCV line along the valve cover making sure the 90 degree
elbow is still good. I replaced that part with a copper tube bent to a
90 on mine.
Then the PCV line comes to a solenoid thing at the back of the carb.
This solenoid never worked properly and the factory fix is to toss it
away and replace it with a normal T fitting.
Off this T fitting, one line goes to the base of the carb and the other
line goes to the canister top. This is the vacuum purge line from the
canister to the PCV system. This large line to the top of the canister
needs to be blocked at the carb end. It is letting out the manifold
vacuum.
For 'temporary' use this line to the canister can be unplugged at the
carb end and the PCV line just put directly onto the carb base nipple.
That gives the PCV direct manifold vacuum and shuts off the canister.
You then need to unplug one of the other large lines going to the top of
the canister. I usually unplug the one leading to the carb float bowl.
The other goes to the gas tank.
This will relieve pressure on the canister so you don't act like you run
out of gas but will allow gas fumes to escape when it sits. No real
getting around the gas fumes, that is what the canister is for anyway.
The 'best' fix is to replace the canister.... Anything up to a 91 will
work.
As to the timing, the computer controls it according to how much vacuum
it sees. The vacuum switches sit on top of the valve cover or on the
center firewall. There are two of them side by side. If these are
electrically unplugged for any reason, the timing will jump about 8
degrees or back to 0 like you see and the idle will drop. This also
happens when you unplug the computer.
Mike
steve wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The canister is blown. I have blocked the vacum signal to it from the CTO
> but the manifold vacum is not blocked (should I). Also, the hose to the PCV
> is blocked - otherwise it would be sucking in blowby and clog the carb.
>
> Thanks,
> Steve
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:4377537D.E8E60140@sympatico.ca...
> > Now we are getting closer I think....
> >
> > You have to address the blowby first. That is the main symptom of a
> > blown out charcoal canister. This will kill your ported vacuum (EGR)
> > and make your manifold vacuum too low. It also will mess up the timing
> > advance big time. This was already mentioned by someone as a possible
> > cause.
> >
> > What have you done with the canister and the small vacuum line to it
> > that comes from the EGR circuit or from the CTO valve?
> >
> > What have you done with the large vacuum line that comes from the PCV
> > line at the solenoid at the rear of the carb and goes to the canister?
> >
> > Does your PCV valve still rattle when you shake it?
> >
> > The PCV line runs along the valve cover and makes a right angle turn at
> > the back of the carb. Is that rubber right angle fitting still in one
> > piece or has it gone soft and collapsed?
> >
> > The trick to adjust the timing depends on you having manifold vacuum.
> > You don't have proper manifold vacuum if the canister is blown. But
> > basically you adjust the timing with a vacuum gauge on manifold vacuum
> > and adjust until you hit the maximum vacuum, then back it off 1" of
> > vacuum and tighten it up. This will have it close.
> >
> > Can you address the above questions, then I can come back with maybe
> > some more answers or fixes.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > steve wrote:
> >>
> >> Here are some more answers/clues: The idle is very good and smooth even
> >> down to 600rmp. I do have manifold vacuum. I did have oil puking into
> >> the
> >> air cleaner but I took care of that a long time ago by venting the
> >> crankcase
> >> out the back of the Jeep via a long hose...and yes, a lot of blow by does
> >> come out. I also went for the smog test today and failed. The
> >> hydrocarbons
> >> were good, CO was 0 at both 15 and 25 mph but the NO was 1100 at 15mph
> >> (max
> >> is 750) and was 690 at 25mph. I also failed because the timing was 0
> >> btdc.
> >> The guy told me that the timing might be causing the high NO but I am
> >> woried
> >> that it is the EGR not getting any ported vac. I know the egr is not
> >> strong
> >> at 15 but I am sure a bit of egr would help. It seems to work at higher
> >> speed. Any thoughts? Also, anybody have the link to that trick to
> >> adjust
> >> timing without a timing light?
> >>
> >> Thanks again for all the help...glad you guts are sticking with me here!
> >>
> >> "steve" <None@nothing.com> wrote in message
> >> news:41i9f.6192$D13.468@newssvr11.news.prodigy.com ...
> >> > Hi All,
> >> >
> >> > I am not getting any ported vacuum going to my EGR valve. I checked
> >> > the
> >> > vac at the connection that is on the top of the Carter BBD - the one on
> >> > the engine side of the carb and there is no vacuum at any RPM. Anyone
> >> > have any ideas why?
> >> >
> >> > Thanks in advance,
> >> > Steve
> >> >
> >> >