Mike Romain

I should get it weighed. I could pick it up and move it around in the
yard while building it up and with 2 people it was super easy, even with
the seats, steering stuff and roll bar inside.

But I still could light up my old 31" muds with my old steel body and
the old engine and still the 3.31 gears. I just had to work at it and
'try' to spin them.

Now I have to watch pulling out onto the main drag off my street. It is
a 60 kph or 40 mph street and if I give too much gas too fast it
squawks.

I do have the 2 bbl carb and intake with a hot Accel coil, but that is
about it. Straight exhaust pipe with a dynomax super turbo muffler and
no cat.

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> My cam is shot and I've got to replace it (tapping valvetrain) but I wish
> I could even imagine "lighting up" my 33's. You've got to have a really
> light body with that fiberglass.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403A0CAD.20B29E9F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are tagging a ported vacuum source.
> >
> > This gives you timing advance with rpm and in my opinion give the engine
> > the best 'punch'.
> >
> > On the newer ones, they use a manifold vacuum to give the engine a
> > smoother idle for the pollution sniffer and had a computer actually
> > adjusting the timing advance.
> >
> > When I dumped the computer, I switched over to the ported advance. On
> > manifold vacuum timing my engine has a dead spot when you punch the gas,
> > it bogs down and slowly recovers.
> >
> > With the timing ported and a punch on the gas pedal, it just perks up
> > and lights up my 33" mud tires in both 1st and 2nd and takes off like a
> > scalded cat.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Here's something I've pondered for years...
> > > When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I raise
> the
> > > RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of
> > > vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole' Carter
> YF
> > > carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the
> vacuum
> > > advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold and
> > > canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold ports
> were
> > > all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So,
> don't
> > > quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine
> besides
> > > being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida.
> > > All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere.
> I've
> > > torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various
> head
> > > and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with an
> > > otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The distributor's
> new
> > > and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I being
> > > stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle?
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W

Mike Romain

I should get it weighed. I could pick it up and move it around in the
yard while building it up and with 2 people it was super easy, even with
the seats, steering stuff and roll bar inside.

But I still could light up my old 31" muds with my old steel body and
the old engine and still the 3.31 gears. I just had to work at it and
'try' to spin them.

Now I have to watch pulling out onto the main drag off my street. It is
a 60 kph or 40 mph street and if I give too much gas too fast it
squawks.

I do have the 2 bbl carb and intake with a hot Accel coil, but that is
about it. Straight exhaust pipe with a dynomax super turbo muffler and
no cat.

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> My cam is shot and I've got to replace it (tapping valvetrain) but I wish
> I could even imagine "lighting up" my 33's. You've got to have a really
> light body with that fiberglass.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403A0CAD.20B29E9F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are tagging a ported vacuum source.
> >
> > This gives you timing advance with rpm and in my opinion give the engine
> > the best 'punch'.
> >
> > On the newer ones, they use a manifold vacuum to give the engine a
> > smoother idle for the pollution sniffer and had a computer actually
> > adjusting the timing advance.
> >
> > When I dumped the computer, I switched over to the ported advance. On
> > manifold vacuum timing my engine has a dead spot when you punch the gas,
> > it bogs down and slowly recovers.
> >
> > With the timing ported and a punch on the gas pedal, it just perks up
> > and lights up my 33" mud tires in both 1st and 2nd and takes off like a
> > scalded cat.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Here's something I've pondered for years...
> > > When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I raise
> the
> > > RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of
> > > vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole' Carter
> YF
> > > carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the
> vacuum
> > > advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold and
> > > canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold ports
> were
> > > all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So,
> don't
> > > quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine
> besides
> > > being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida.
> > > All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere.
> I've
> > > torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various
> head
> > > and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with an
> > > otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The distributor's
> new
> > > and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I being
> > > stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle?
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W

Mike Romain

I should get it weighed. I could pick it up and move it around in the
yard while building it up and with 2 people it was super easy, even with
the seats, steering stuff and roll bar inside.

But I still could light up my old 31" muds with my old steel body and
the old engine and still the 3.31 gears. I just had to work at it and
'try' to spin them.

Now I have to watch pulling out onto the main drag off my street. It is
a 60 kph or 40 mph street and if I give too much gas too fast it
squawks.

I do have the 2 bbl carb and intake with a hot Accel coil, but that is
about it. Straight exhaust pipe with a dynomax super turbo muffler and
no cat.

Mike

Drink wrote:
>
> My cam is shot and I've got to replace it (tapping valvetrain) but I wish
> I could even imagine "lighting up" my 33's. You've got to have a really
> light body with that fiberglass.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403A0CAD.20B29E9F@sympatico.ca...
> > You are tagging a ported vacuum source.
> >
> > This gives you timing advance with rpm and in my opinion give the engine
> > the best 'punch'.
> >
> > On the newer ones, they use a manifold vacuum to give the engine a
> > smoother idle for the pollution sniffer and had a computer actually
> > adjusting the timing advance.
> >
> > When I dumped the computer, I switched over to the ported advance. On
> > manifold vacuum timing my engine has a dead spot when you punch the gas,
> > it bogs down and slowly recovers.
> >
> > With the timing ported and a punch on the gas pedal, it just perks up
> > and lights up my 33" mud tires in both 1st and 2nd and takes off like a
> > scalded cat.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Here's something I've pondered for years...
> > > When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I raise
> the
> > > RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of
> > > vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole' Carter
> YF
> > > carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the
> vacuum
> > > advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold and
> > > canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold ports
> were
> > > all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So,
> don't
> > > quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine
> besides
> > > being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida.
> > > All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere.
> I've
> > > torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various
> head
> > > and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with an
> > > otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The distributor's
> new
> > > and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I being
> > > stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle?
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W

Paul Brogren

I used to have an old nissan that the EGR failed on. I just unplugged the
vacuum tube and drove it. Ran good.
"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:c1gjhv$ci5$1@news.utelfla.com...
> On any other car, I'd make sure I had the EGR circuit. But, on the
Jeep,
> I have to ask, "Do I need it? What are the pros and cons?" I expect
> someone's gonna tell me I have to have it. I know what it does but does
> "lowering the combustion point" equate to power, mileage, cold
> starting/driving?
> Right now, it runs like crap but I need a cam. If I don't work the
choke,
> it bogs badly. I tuned it the other day and have timing, mixture and idle
> set to factory. The stock settings make it run horribly.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403A0F4E.C8A15606@sympatico.ca...
> > I just checked my book and it looks like you have 2 vacuum nipples. The
> > bottom one is the 'spark' port and the upper one is the 'egr' port.
> > That implies both are ported vacuum to me.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Here's something I've pondered for years...
> > > When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I
raise
> the
> > > RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of
> > > vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole'
Carter
> YF
> > > carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the
> vacuum
> > > advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold
and
> > > canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold
ports
> were
> > > all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So,
> don't
> > > quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine
> besides
> > > being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida.
> > > All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere.
> I've
> > > torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various
> head
> > > and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with
an
> > > otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The
distributor's
> new
> > > and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I
being
> > > stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle?
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>
>

Paul Brogren

I used to have an old nissan that the EGR failed on. I just unplugged the
vacuum tube and drove it. Ran good.
"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:c1gjhv$ci5$1@news.utelfla.com...
> On any other car, I'd make sure I had the EGR circuit. But, on the
Jeep,
> I have to ask, "Do I need it? What are the pros and cons?" I expect
> someone's gonna tell me I have to have it. I know what it does but does
> "lowering the combustion point" equate to power, mileage, cold
> starting/driving?
> Right now, it runs like crap but I need a cam. If I don't work the
choke,
> it bogs badly. I tuned it the other day and have timing, mixture and idle
> set to factory. The stock settings make it run horribly.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403A0F4E.C8A15606@sympatico.ca...
> > I just checked my book and it looks like you have 2 vacuum nipples. The
> > bottom one is the 'spark' port and the upper one is the 'egr' port.
> > That implies both are ported vacuum to me.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Here's something I've pondered for years...
> > > When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I
raise
> the
> > > RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of
> > > vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole'
Carter
> YF
> > > carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the
> vacuum
> > > advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold
and
> > > canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold
ports
> were
> > > all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So,
> don't
> > > quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine
> besides
> > > being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida.
> > > All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere.
> I've
> > > torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various
> head
> > > and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with
an
> > > otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The
distributor's
> new
> > > and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I
being
> > > stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle?
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>
>

Paul Brogren

I used to have an old nissan that the EGR failed on. I just unplugged the
vacuum tube and drove it. Ran good.
"Drink" <drink@gnt.net> wrote in message
news:c1gjhv$ci5$1@news.utelfla.com...
> On any other car, I'd make sure I had the EGR circuit. But, on the
Jeep,
> I have to ask, "Do I need it? What are the pros and cons?" I expect
> someone's gonna tell me I have to have it. I know what it does but does
> "lowering the combustion point" equate to power, mileage, cold
> starting/driving?
> Right now, it runs like crap but I need a cam. If I don't work the
choke,
> it bogs badly. I tuned it the other day and have timing, mixture and idle
> set to factory. The stock settings make it run horribly.
> o_o_o_o
> Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:403A0F4E.C8A15606@sympatico.ca...
> > I just checked my book and it looks like you have 2 vacuum nipples. The
> > bottom one is the 'spark' port and the upper one is the 'egr' port.
> > That implies both are ported vacuum to me.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > Drink wrote:
> > >
> > > Here's something I've pondered for years...
> > > When I tune the Jeep, I have no measurable vacuum at idle. If I
raise
> the
> > > RPM above idle around 1,000 and up (revving high), it shows plenty of
> > > vacuum; 16 inches or so I think. I have a '76 258 with the ole'
Carter
> YF
> > > carb with minimal emissions. In fact, the only thing I have is the
> vacuum
> > > advance ported from the carb, PCV to manifold, canister to manifold
and
> > > canister pulling vapor from around the bowl. The intake manifold
ports
> were
> > > all plugged with bungs. I'm describing the plumbing from memory. So,
> don't
> > > quote me but I'm pretty sure that's it. The engine runs just fine
> besides
> > > being cold natured. but, it ain't a problem down here in Florida.
> > > All the hoses are in fine shape and I can't find any leaks anywhere.
> I've
> > > torqued the manifolds and they've never leaked either through various
> head
> > > and manifold swaps. The carb's tight too. So, what's the deal with
an
> > > otherwise healthy engine that shows good compression. The
distributor's
> new
> > > and I've ruled out a ruptured diaphragm. What could it be? Am I
being
> > > stupid and there shouldn't be any measured vacuum at idle?
> > > o_o_o_o
> > > Best Regards, /| ,[_____],
> > > Jim, WP3JQ |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
> > > EM60qk 30.447439N 086.628959W
>
>