JimG

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdtqjcqhh595@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Your tcase has a vent tube too.
>
>

You would think I would remember that since I was the one that put the 4 to
1 kit in it!

Thanks for the memory jog :-)
JimG

JimG

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdtqjcqhh595@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Your tcase has a vent tube too.
>
>

You would think I would remember that since I was the one that put the 4 to
1 kit in it!

Thanks for the memory jog :-)
JimG

JimG

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdtqjcqhh595@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Your tcase has a vent tube too.
>
>

You would think I would remember that since I was the one that put the 4 to
1 kit in it!

Thanks for the memory jog :-)
JimG

JimG

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdpuqq21ns0d@corp.supernews.com...
>
> First, you want a lower ratio, which is a higher numeric value.
>

Now see, I wondered about that and left it alone...

Mathematically speaking, wouldn't a higher "ratio" be correct, which
correspond to a "lower" gear? For example: If you use a higher (50:1 vs.
25:1) gas to oil ratio in your chain saw, you are adding more gas to the
oil.

Naturally we all know that the higher the number (ratio), the lower the gear
and visa versa. Maybe we should only use "higher" and "lower" when
referring to gears.

Just pickin' :-)

JimG

JimG

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdpuqq21ns0d@corp.supernews.com...
>
> First, you want a lower ratio, which is a higher numeric value.
>

Now see, I wondered about that and left it alone...

Mathematically speaking, wouldn't a higher "ratio" be correct, which
correspond to a "lower" gear? For example: If you use a higher (50:1 vs.
25:1) gas to oil ratio in your chain saw, you are adding more gas to the
oil.

Naturally we all know that the higher the number (ratio), the lower the gear
and visa versa. Maybe we should only use "higher" and "lower" when
referring to gears.

Just pickin' :-)

JimG

JimG

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdpuqq21ns0d@corp.supernews.com...
>
> First, you want a lower ratio, which is a higher numeric value.
>

Now see, I wondered about that and left it alone...

Mathematically speaking, wouldn't a higher "ratio" be correct, which
correspond to a "lower" gear? For example: If you use a higher (50:1 vs.
25:1) gas to oil ratio in your chain saw, you are adding more gas to the
oil.

Naturally we all know that the higher the number (ratio), the lower the gear
and visa versa. Maybe we should only use "higher" and "lower" when
referring to gears.

Just pickin' :-)

JimG

TW

"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:vvir9dc681qn2f@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Are you sure it's a D44, I also thought they only came with 3.73's.
>

Yes, I have confirmed it by sight and matching to shapes on the internet.
Also, build order from the dealer listed it as Dana 44. Additionally, the
mechanic at the dealers said that TJ Renegades in NZ only come with Dana 44
(he wasn't sure about the gearing options though).

>
> About $1,000US for parts and should be done by an experienced mechanic
with
> the proper tools. Labor (and any parts markup) would be extra.
>

Great, another addition to my wish list. I thought those things were
expensive (USD 1.00 = about NZD 1.80).

>
> You could probably go as far as 31's but you will loose power. Much more
> and you will need re-geared and some kind of lift. Those BFG's won't
ware
> out till about 40K miles.
>

I will just have to drive around a lot to get them worn out! I have got
about 35k kilometers on them now, which is just about half way.

>
> Both my axles have vent tubes (D30 & D44) but none on the tranny.
>

Looks like I will have to go under the TJ again, but this time with a torch
and some coffee.

>
> No worries, mate!
>

Thanks.

TW

TW

"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:vvir9dc681qn2f@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Are you sure it's a D44, I also thought they only came with 3.73's.
>

Yes, I have confirmed it by sight and matching to shapes on the internet.
Also, build order from the dealer listed it as Dana 44. Additionally, the
mechanic at the dealers said that TJ Renegades in NZ only come with Dana 44
(he wasn't sure about the gearing options though).

>
> About $1,000US for parts and should be done by an experienced mechanic
with
> the proper tools. Labor (and any parts markup) would be extra.
>

Great, another addition to my wish list. I thought those things were
expensive (USD 1.00 = about NZD 1.80).

>
> You could probably go as far as 31's but you will loose power. Much more
> and you will need re-geared and some kind of lift. Those BFG's won't
ware
> out till about 40K miles.
>

I will just have to drive around a lot to get them worn out! I have got
about 35k kilometers on them now, which is just about half way.

>
> Both my axles have vent tubes (D30 & D44) but none on the tranny.
>

Looks like I will have to go under the TJ again, but this time with a torch
and some coffee.

>
> No worries, mate!
>

Thanks.

TW

TW

"JimG" <jimg@cj7_2muchspam.com> wrote in message
news:vvir9dc681qn2f@corp.supernews.com...
>
> Are you sure it's a D44, I also thought they only came with 3.73's.
>

Yes, I have confirmed it by sight and matching to shapes on the internet.
Also, build order from the dealer listed it as Dana 44. Additionally, the
mechanic at the dealers said that TJ Renegades in NZ only come with Dana 44
(he wasn't sure about the gearing options though).

>
> About $1,000US for parts and should be done by an experienced mechanic
with
> the proper tools. Labor (and any parts markup) would be extra.
>

Great, another addition to my wish list. I thought those things were
expensive (USD 1.00 = about NZD 1.80).

>
> You could probably go as far as 31's but you will loose power. Much more
> and you will need re-geared and some kind of lift. Those BFG's won't
ware
> out till about 40K miles.
>

I will just have to drive around a lot to get them worn out! I have got
about 35k kilometers on them now, which is just about half way.

>
> Both my axles have vent tubes (D30 & D44) but none on the tranny.
>

Looks like I will have to go under the TJ again, but this time with a torch
and some coffee.

>
> No worries, mate!
>

Thanks.

TW

TW

"CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vvjdpuqq21ns0d@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> First, you want a lower ratio, which is a higher numeric value.
>

I am still thinking about that one... Its a bit confusing, but yes I do
want a higher numeric value. BTW, I am still learning all the Jeep and 4x4
vocabulary

>
>
> You will be stuck at 30" tires for the most part. You need to change some
> suspensiion stuff to get bigger than 30s under there anyway. Actually,
you
> can fit 31s but the gears will not work out very well.
>

Looks like I will just have to save up while trying to use all the tread on
my current tyres. Once that is done, I can change both tyres and gears at
the same time. I know that is going to cost me some pretty penny, but
would be fun. Also by that stage, I should develop enough experience
off-roading to need bigger tyres, higher suspension and higher numeric
value gears.

>
>
>
> The diff vents should be pretty close to the level of the intake system.
If
> the intake sucks up some water, the diffs getting wet will be the least
of
> your problems.
>
> The trans has a vent that closes if it goes under water, the tcase has a
> vent hose that is attached to the firewall, and the rear diff has a vent
> hose that goes up inside the fender.
>

Thanks for that. So what you are saying is that I don't need to worry
about the tranny went as it closes under water. I already have a high
level on my front axle. That leaves me with transfer case and rear axle.
I need to spend some more time under the TJ to find out where they are. Do
you happen to know the approximate location and sizes? Also whats the best
way of putting a downward bend on the a/c went as highway winds tend to
push water back in under certain conditions (like about 80kmph speeds).

TW