Re: New starter continually runs
 

Tom Greening wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> the last one in the state or something)
>>
>> I am sorry, but I just can't imagine someone actually having to change
>> wiring around to put the 'wrong' starter into a Jeep and thinking that
>> all is right with things.....
>>
>> I too would like to hear the results....
>>
>> Mike
>
>
> You seem to be fixated on this "wrong" starter issue. Now who is to say
> it's the wrong one? After all it's an aftermarket starter and while I'm
> not all that incredibly familiar with mean green starters but have you
> ever looked at one? It doesn't look very "factory" to say the least.
> Extending the wiring might just be the way it is if you want one of
> their starters. That doesn't make it the wrong one. Hell, just about
> every after market ignition system in the world requires wiring
> modifications of some sort. Does that make them the "wrong" system?

I have been putting in starters since the 60's and have 'never' needed
to modify the wiring to do so. It makes no sense to me...

If I have to jury rig something to get me going, I am the best at making
things work, but to buy new and need to do it, well....

Mike

Re: New starter continually runs
 

Tom Greening wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> the last one in the state or something)
>>
>> I am sorry, but I just can't imagine someone actually having to change
>> wiring around to put the 'wrong' starter into a Jeep and thinking that
>> all is right with things.....
>>
>> I too would like to hear the results....
>>
>> Mike
>
>
> You seem to be fixated on this "wrong" starter issue. Now who is to say
> it's the wrong one? After all it's an aftermarket starter and while I'm
> not all that incredibly familiar with mean green starters but have you
> ever looked at one? It doesn't look very "factory" to say the least.
> Extending the wiring might just be the way it is if you want one of
> their starters. That doesn't make it the wrong one. Hell, just about
> every after market ignition system in the world requires wiring
> modifications of some sort. Does that make them the "wrong" system?

I have been putting in starters since the 60's and have 'never' needed
to modify the wiring to do so. It makes no sense to me...

If I have to jury rig something to get me going, I am the best at making
things work, but to buy new and need to do it, well....

Mike

Re: New starter continually runs
 

Tom Greening wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
>> the last one in the state or something)
>>
>> I am sorry, but I just can't imagine someone actually having to change
>> wiring around to put the 'wrong' starter into a Jeep and thinking that
>> all is right with things.....
>>
>> I too would like to hear the results....
>>
>> Mike
>
>
> You seem to be fixated on this "wrong" starter issue. Now who is to say
> it's the wrong one? After all it's an aftermarket starter and while I'm
> not all that incredibly familiar with mean green starters but have you
> ever looked at one? It doesn't look very "factory" to say the least.
> Extending the wiring might just be the way it is if you want one of
> their starters. That doesn't make it the wrong one. Hell, just about
> every after market ignition system in the world requires wiring
> modifications of some sort. Does that make them the "wrong" system?

I have been putting in starters since the 60's and have 'never' needed
to modify the wiring to do so. It makes no sense to me...

If I have to jury rig something to get me going, I am the best at making
things work, but to buy new and need to do it, well....

Mike

Re: New starter continually runs
 

Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
posted.

Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.

To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
pictures of the two starters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/

As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.

The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
guessing the realy is bad?

Re: New starter continually runs
 

Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
posted.

Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.

To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
pictures of the two starters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/

As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.

The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
guessing the realy is bad?

Re: New starter continually runs
 

Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
posted.

Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.

To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
pictures of the two starters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/

As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.

The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
guessing the realy is bad?

Re: New starter continually runs
 

Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
posted.

Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.

To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
pictures of the two starters

http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/

As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.

The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
guessing the realy is bad?

Re: New starter continually runs
 

If you jump to the smaller post on the Mean Green starter now, the starter
should start up. It probably will, but this is just a sanity test to verify
that you brought home a good unit from the parts store. Before you go much
further, you should take note of the fact that the Mean Green starter lacks
a nose cone bushing, which makes it an inherently weaker design. There is a
reason that many people stick with OEM design components. Engineering is
design, testing, testing, testing and more testing. From economic and scale
considerations, there is just no way the Mean Green design has received the
same amount and quality of testing as the OEM design.

From what you have posted, the brown wire is continually energized, whether
the key is on or not. It should be easy to verify this with a test light or
voltmeter, another sanity test. This could be caused by the key switch, the
relay or a short in the wire. The relay sounds like the easiest thing to
fix. Many times we go with the easiest fix first, but you have to decide
whether you can throw away the price of a relay in case you are wrong.

Earle

<Erik.Hosler@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169827822.303722.8860@q2g2000cwa.googlegroup s.com...
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>

Re: New starter continually runs
 

If you jump to the smaller post on the Mean Green starter now, the starter
should start up. It probably will, but this is just a sanity test to verify
that you brought home a good unit from the parts store. Before you go much
further, you should take note of the fact that the Mean Green starter lacks
a nose cone bushing, which makes it an inherently weaker design. There is a
reason that many people stick with OEM design components. Engineering is
design, testing, testing, testing and more testing. From economic and scale
considerations, there is just no way the Mean Green design has received the
same amount and quality of testing as the OEM design.

From what you have posted, the brown wire is continually energized, whether
the key is on or not. It should be easy to verify this with a test light or
voltmeter, another sanity test. This could be caused by the key switch, the
relay or a short in the wire. The relay sounds like the easiest thing to
fix. Many times we go with the easiest fix first, but you have to decide
whether you can throw away the price of a relay in case you are wrong.

Earle

<Erik.Hosler@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169827822.303722.8860@q2g2000cwa.googlegroup s.com...
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>

Re: New starter continually runs
 

If you jump to the smaller post on the Mean Green starter now, the starter
should start up. It probably will, but this is just a sanity test to verify
that you brought home a good unit from the parts store. Before you go much
further, you should take note of the fact that the Mean Green starter lacks
a nose cone bushing, which makes it an inherently weaker design. There is a
reason that many people stick with OEM design components. Engineering is
design, testing, testing, testing and more testing. From economic and scale
considerations, there is just no way the Mean Green design has received the
same amount and quality of testing as the OEM design.

From what you have posted, the brown wire is continually energized, whether
the key is on or not. It should be easy to verify this with a test light or
voltmeter, another sanity test. This could be caused by the key switch, the
relay or a short in the wire. The relay sounds like the easiest thing to
fix. Many times we go with the easiest fix first, but you have to decide
whether you can throw away the price of a relay in case you are wrong.

Earle

<Erik.Hosler@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1169827822.303722.8860@q2g2000cwa.googlegroup s.com...
> Lets try this again, I guess my first try at replying didnt get
> posted.
>
> Anyway, I think Mike, you have some notion that I am taking 4 wires
> cramming them into one coupler and hooking it up to a post. Which is
> def. not the case. The mean green starter is obviously aftermarket and
> considerably more beefy than that of the stock starter. Perhaps you
> have never had to modify the wires on your starters because you just
> use OEM starters. The starter isn't any kind of slapped together to
> work with my 2.5L engine. It mounts to the factory location with out
> shims with any modification to the factory mount, and it even uses the
> factory mounting bolts used to hold the original starter in place.
>
> To hopefully clear some misconceptions up here, this is a link to some
> pictures of the two starters
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/flyer_fan11/369877432/
>
> As you can see the mean green starter is larger and the mounting posts
> are in a different location. On the old starter the two silver rings
> you see is where the wires mounted. On the mean green stater look at
> the bottom right of the starter you can see the same two posts, just in
> different locations. The same wires go to the same posts on the new
> starter, red to the larger post and the brown to the smaller post. I
> just needed to lengthen the wires to accomidate the different position
> of the posts...not cosolidate more wires into one with the thought that
> the stater will miraculously work. Thats just idiocy.
>
> The starter is now off the jeep disconnected and unbolted from
> everything. I took the stater and connected it to the batter with
> jumper cables. The negative on the large billet metal piece on the
> front of the starter, and the positive on the hot post (red wire NOT
> the smaller brown wire post) . The starter did not start up. So I'm
> guessing the realy is bad?
>