Mike Romain

If the mesh wire ground from the engine to the firewall goes ratty, you
can have the body mounted systems lose power when the engine needs more.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jay wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I bought a Jeep Cherokee yesterday. I've never had a 4x4 before, I always
> had hot hatches, but I woke up the other day and fancied a 4x4 - it must be
> middle-age creeping up on me! Next I'll be wearing uni---- jeans and having
> a bonfire on a Sunday afternoon.
>
> Anyway. I was after some advice as I am pretty clueless about Jeeps and also
> know hardly anything about the mechanics of a car. The Jeep is a 1995 model
> and has done 118,000 miles. It is the 2.5 petrol model. The engine sounds
> pretty smooth and performs well enough and the gear change feels nice. There
> is no service history with the Jeep and I am wanting to take some
> precautionary steps in order to hopefully lengthen the life of it. I am
> going to change the oil and oil filter for starters, but what other things
> should I be doing or inspecting?
>
> There are a few faults I have already found:
>
> 1) The lights dont't come on when set in the first setting (sidelights.)
> Also none of the bulbs behind the rev counter and speedo are lighting up
> even when on main beam (which does work.) Is this likely to be a fuse that
> has blown?
>
> 2) The oil pressure gauge is mental - it goes up and down all the time and
> at high revs goes wildly off the scale.
>
> 3) This may not be a fault but seems bizarre - the higher I rev the engine
> the slower the blower fan runs which is odd as it's usually the other way
> around.
>
> Any help would be greatfully received.
>
> Jay

DougW

Jay wrote:
>> Ah, then I dunno. :/ Voltage is reguated quite a bit better in newer
>> vehicles so there isn't the old swing up to +18V anymore. Could also
>> be the battery is tired or low on water. Check your local auto parts
>> stores, the ones over on this side of the pond will check batteries
>> for free.

> Thanks - you have answered my question - the battery is indeed not in
> great condition!
>
> Any help on my original Q about what basic checks / precautions I
> could take on an 118,000 miles engine with no service history? I read
> that there is no cam belt on these 2.5 petrols - is this true?

True. All the Jeep engines used chains that are good for way over 200,000 miles.

Long list of things.

Start with a trip to a dealer and have them check your vin for any
recalls and get a printout of the build-sheet.

The basics so you know when they were done.
Oil and filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap.
Drivebelt/unibelt if it's looking shabby.
Clean the throttle body.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

Other service:
Transmission fluid and filter
Transfer case fluid
Front and rear differentials

Check the all the lube points.
Steering links
drive shaft

Pull the wheels off and check the brakes for wear.

It's also not a bad idea to slowly go over all the hoses
and connectors under the hood. Remove the connectors,
clean them with some spray cleaner that's safe for plastic
(wear eye protection and use a towel to keep splashes off the paint)
then put some dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) in the connector
and put it back on.

Check for swollen spots or soft spots on the radiator and heater hoses.

There are other things you could do, but that all depends on how
much work you want to do.
One is to empty/refill the power steering fluid.
(or just siphon out the existing fluid and add new)
(make sure you use the correct fluid)

The other is to have the brake fluid drained/flushed/refilled, but
that is not something usual. Normal you only do this if there is
some other reason, like swollen brake lines or such.

That's not all you can check but it's enough to keep one
busy for a few weekends. :)

You could look at some mods to improve power.
The easiest one is putting in a 4.0 throttle body
in place of your 2.5. It gives a bit more power
but takes some work to install.

Ignore the spacers/air swirrly things. They are junk.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

Jay wrote:
>> Ah, then I dunno. :/ Voltage is reguated quite a bit better in newer
>> vehicles so there isn't the old swing up to +18V anymore. Could also
>> be the battery is tired or low on water. Check your local auto parts
>> stores, the ones over on this side of the pond will check batteries
>> for free.

> Thanks - you have answered my question - the battery is indeed not in
> great condition!
>
> Any help on my original Q about what basic checks / precautions I
> could take on an 118,000 miles engine with no service history? I read
> that there is no cam belt on these 2.5 petrols - is this true?

True. All the Jeep engines used chains that are good for way over 200,000 miles.

Long list of things.

Start with a trip to a dealer and have them check your vin for any
recalls and get a printout of the build-sheet.

The basics so you know when they were done.
Oil and filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap.
Drivebelt/unibelt if it's looking shabby.
Clean the throttle body.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

Other service:
Transmission fluid and filter
Transfer case fluid
Front and rear differentials

Check the all the lube points.
Steering links
drive shaft

Pull the wheels off and check the brakes for wear.

It's also not a bad idea to slowly go over all the hoses
and connectors under the hood. Remove the connectors,
clean them with some spray cleaner that's safe for plastic
(wear eye protection and use a towel to keep splashes off the paint)
then put some dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) in the connector
and put it back on.

Check for swollen spots or soft spots on the radiator and heater hoses.

There are other things you could do, but that all depends on how
much work you want to do.
One is to empty/refill the power steering fluid.
(or just siphon out the existing fluid and add new)
(make sure you use the correct fluid)

The other is to have the brake fluid drained/flushed/refilled, but
that is not something usual. Normal you only do this if there is
some other reason, like swollen brake lines or such.

That's not all you can check but it's enough to keep one
busy for a few weekends. :)

You could look at some mods to improve power.
The easiest one is putting in a 4.0 throttle body
in place of your 2.5. It gives a bit more power
but takes some work to install.

Ignore the spacers/air swirrly things. They are junk.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

Jay wrote:
>> Ah, then I dunno. :/ Voltage is reguated quite a bit better in newer
>> vehicles so there isn't the old swing up to +18V anymore. Could also
>> be the battery is tired or low on water. Check your local auto parts
>> stores, the ones over on this side of the pond will check batteries
>> for free.

> Thanks - you have answered my question - the battery is indeed not in
> great condition!
>
> Any help on my original Q about what basic checks / precautions I
> could take on an 118,000 miles engine with no service history? I read
> that there is no cam belt on these 2.5 petrols - is this true?

True. All the Jeep engines used chains that are good for way over 200,000 miles.

Long list of things.

Start with a trip to a dealer and have them check your vin for any
recalls and get a printout of the build-sheet.

The basics so you know when they were done.
Oil and filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap.
Drivebelt/unibelt if it's looking shabby.
Clean the throttle body.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

Other service:
Transmission fluid and filter
Transfer case fluid
Front and rear differentials

Check the all the lube points.
Steering links
drive shaft

Pull the wheels off and check the brakes for wear.

It's also not a bad idea to slowly go over all the hoses
and connectors under the hood. Remove the connectors,
clean them with some spray cleaner that's safe for plastic
(wear eye protection and use a towel to keep splashes off the paint)
then put some dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) in the connector
and put it back on.

Check for swollen spots or soft spots on the radiator and heater hoses.

There are other things you could do, but that all depends on how
much work you want to do.
One is to empty/refill the power steering fluid.
(or just siphon out the existing fluid and add new)
(make sure you use the correct fluid)

The other is to have the brake fluid drained/flushed/refilled, but
that is not something usual. Normal you only do this if there is
some other reason, like swollen brake lines or such.

That's not all you can check but it's enough to keep one
busy for a few weekends. :)

You could look at some mods to improve power.
The easiest one is putting in a 4.0 throttle body
in place of your 2.5. It gives a bit more power
but takes some work to install.

Ignore the spacers/air swirrly things. They are junk.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

DougW

Jay wrote:
>> Ah, then I dunno. :/ Voltage is reguated quite a bit better in newer
>> vehicles so there isn't the old swing up to +18V anymore. Could also
>> be the battery is tired or low on water. Check your local auto parts
>> stores, the ones over on this side of the pond will check batteries
>> for free.

> Thanks - you have answered my question - the battery is indeed not in
> great condition!
>
> Any help on my original Q about what basic checks / precautions I
> could take on an 118,000 miles engine with no service history? I read
> that there is no cam belt on these 2.5 petrols - is this true?

True. All the Jeep engines used chains that are good for way over 200,000 miles.

Long list of things.

Start with a trip to a dealer and have them check your vin for any
recalls and get a printout of the build-sheet.

The basics so you know when they were done.
Oil and filter
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap.
Drivebelt/unibelt if it's looking shabby.
Clean the throttle body.
http://revbeergoggles.com/tb/tb.html

Other service:
Transmission fluid and filter
Transfer case fluid
Front and rear differentials

Check the all the lube points.
Steering links
drive shaft

Pull the wheels off and check the brakes for wear.

It's also not a bad idea to slowly go over all the hoses
and connectors under the hood. Remove the connectors,
clean them with some spray cleaner that's safe for plastic
(wear eye protection and use a towel to keep splashes off the paint)
then put some dielectric grease (sparkplug grease) in the connector
and put it back on.

Check for swollen spots or soft spots on the radiator and heater hoses.

There are other things you could do, but that all depends on how
much work you want to do.
One is to empty/refill the power steering fluid.
(or just siphon out the existing fluid and add new)
(make sure you use the correct fluid)

The other is to have the brake fluid drained/flushed/refilled, but
that is not something usual. Normal you only do this if there is
some other reason, like swollen brake lines or such.

That's not all you can check but it's enough to keep one
busy for a few weekends. :)

You could look at some mods to improve power.
The easiest one is putting in a 4.0 throttle body
in place of your 2.5. It gives a bit more power
but takes some work to install.

Ignore the spacers/air swirrly things. They are junk.


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!

Jay

Thanks Doug.

Will check back with progress :-)

Jay

Thanks Doug.

Will check back with progress :-)

Jay

Thanks Doug.

Will check back with progress :-)

Jay

Thanks Doug.

Will check back with progress :-)

billy ray

I would add that synthetic fluids, while not required, will give better
performance and longer life. The extra cost is worth it.. to me.

If you are unaware of the age of the hoses I would recommend that you change
them all at the same time that you flush and refill the radiator coolant.

Be sure you get the proper coolant. You can use the new spec G-05 coolant
that is only available in the states in Valvoline's Zerex brand or the old
spec "American Green' coolant. Problem is....... very few companies in the
states still make it. Valvoline still makes their Zerex 'Original Green
version.

In the states NOTHING made my Prestone or Peal meets either the new or old
specs as they are all based on DexCool Technology.
"Jay" <jay.jones7@BOLLOCKSntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:ZqtHg.12530$_06.278@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
> Thanks Doug.
>
> Will check back with progress :-)
>