Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Thanks Chris,

What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?

Thanks,

Bill

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Chris,
> >
> > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > >
> > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > >
> > >
> > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> someone,
> > I
> > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> time.
> > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
that
> > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> towing
> > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
on
> > that
> > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
but
> > this
> > > also depends on ring type.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Thanks Chris,

What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?

Thanks,

Bill

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Chris,
> >
> > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > >
> > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > >
> > >
> > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> someone,
> > I
> > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> time.
> > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
that
> > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> towing
> > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
on
> > that
> > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
but
> > this
> > > also depends on ring type.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Thanks Chris,

What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?

Thanks,

Bill

"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
>
> Chris
>
> "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > Chris,
> >
> > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Bill
> >
> >
> > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > >
> > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > >
> > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > >
> > >
> > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> someone,
> > I
> > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> time.
> > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
that
> > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> towing
> > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
on
> > that
> > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
but
> > this
> > > also depends on ring type.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Well, the cam companies do everything possible to make sure that you don't
have problems, but things can happen. The worst case scenario is that a
lifter lobe will go flat. On rare occasion this can be caused by a soft cam
core, but usually it is insufficient lube at startup. Cam problems really
don't happen as much these days due to improved lubricants and cam
manufacturing processes.

You probably won't notice anything right away, but if an intake lobe goes
flat, you'll lose some power and eventually develop a miss similar to a bad
plug or wire. If an exhaust lobe goes flat you'll get popping and backfiring
through the carb/throttle body. This is because the exhaust will try to exit
back through the intake manifold when the intake valve opens. Unfortunately
I found this out the hard way when I had my first cam go bad and lost two
exhaust lobes on it. This happened after 8000 miles, so it did take a while.

Chris

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2id365Fli0ihU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Chris,
>
> What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> > http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris,
> > >
> > > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> > someone,
> > > I
> > > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> > time.
> > > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
> that
> > > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> > towing
> > > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
> on
> > > that
> > > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
> but
> > > this
> > > > also depends on ring type.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Well, the cam companies do everything possible to make sure that you don't
have problems, but things can happen. The worst case scenario is that a
lifter lobe will go flat. On rare occasion this can be caused by a soft cam
core, but usually it is insufficient lube at startup. Cam problems really
don't happen as much these days due to improved lubricants and cam
manufacturing processes.

You probably won't notice anything right away, but if an intake lobe goes
flat, you'll lose some power and eventually develop a miss similar to a bad
plug or wire. If an exhaust lobe goes flat you'll get popping and backfiring
through the carb/throttle body. This is because the exhaust will try to exit
back through the intake manifold when the intake valve opens. Unfortunately
I found this out the hard way when I had my first cam go bad and lost two
exhaust lobes on it. This happened after 8000 miles, so it did take a while.

Chris

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2id365Fli0ihU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Chris,
>
> What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> > http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris,
> > >
> > > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> > someone,
> > > I
> > > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> > time.
> > > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
> that
> > > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> > towing
> > > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
> on
> > > that
> > > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
> but
> > > this
> > > > also depends on ring type.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Well, the cam companies do everything possible to make sure that you don't
have problems, but things can happen. The worst case scenario is that a
lifter lobe will go flat. On rare occasion this can be caused by a soft cam
core, but usually it is insufficient lube at startup. Cam problems really
don't happen as much these days due to improved lubricants and cam
manufacturing processes.

You probably won't notice anything right away, but if an intake lobe goes
flat, you'll lose some power and eventually develop a miss similar to a bad
plug or wire. If an exhaust lobe goes flat you'll get popping and backfiring
through the carb/throttle body. This is because the exhaust will try to exit
back through the intake manifold when the intake valve opens. Unfortunately
I found this out the hard way when I had my first cam go bad and lost two
exhaust lobes on it. This happened after 8000 miles, so it did take a while.

Chris

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2id365Fli0ihU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Chris,
>
> What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> > http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris,
> > >
> > > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> > someone,
> > > I
> > > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> > time.
> > > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
> that
> > > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> > towing
> > > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
> on
> > > that
> > > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
> but
> > > this
> > > > also depends on ring type.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

Well, the cam companies do everything possible to make sure that you don't
have problems, but things can happen. The worst case scenario is that a
lifter lobe will go flat. On rare occasion this can be caused by a soft cam
core, but usually it is insufficient lube at startup. Cam problems really
don't happen as much these days due to improved lubricants and cam
manufacturing processes.

You probably won't notice anything right away, but if an intake lobe goes
flat, you'll lose some power and eventually develop a miss similar to a bad
plug or wire. If an exhaust lobe goes flat you'll get popping and backfiring
through the carb/throttle body. This is because the exhaust will try to exit
back through the intake manifold when the intake valve opens. Unfortunately
I found this out the hard way when I had my first cam go bad and lost two
exhaust lobes on it. This happened after 8000 miles, so it did take a while.

Chris

"William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
news:2id365Fli0ihU1@uni-berlin.de...
> Thanks Chris,
>
> What would be some indicators/symptoms of an improperly broken in cam?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
>
> "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> news:_ucwc.264$Fd.179@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > Rather than type it all out, check out this site:
> > http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message
> > news:2icsgbFlvs50U1@uni-berlin.de...
> > > Chris,
> > >
> > > What is the proper cam shaft break-in method?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Bill
> > >
> > >
> > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
> > news:PtZvc.72$Fd.3@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> > > >
> > > > "FrankW" <fworm@mxznorpak.ca> wrote in message
> > > > news:bJ6dnaehgZRq_F3dRVn-uQ@magma.ca...
> > > > > Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
> > > > >
> > > > > http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
> > > > >
> > > > > Comments anyone?
> > > > > For me, I always say to drive it normally.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > I agree with you on this one. Basically, if I build an engine for
> > someone,
> > > I
> > > > tell them to drive it like they intend to use it the majority of the
> > time.
> > > > Of course this is after proper camshaft break-in. I don't recommend
> that
> > > > someone take a new engine and start towing at the vehicle's maximum
> > towing
> > > > capacity at highway speeds in the mountains. Some of the information
> on
> > > that
> > > > site is correct with regard to improved cylinder honing procedures,
> but
> > > this
> > > > also depends on ring type.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Frank,
> All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
> installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
> fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
> up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
> Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
> the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
> drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
> it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
> then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
> the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
> very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
> miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
> honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> FrankW wrote:
>
>>Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>>
>>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>>
>>Comments anyone?
>>For me, I always say to drive it normally.

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Frank,
> All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
> installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
> fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
> up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
> Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
> the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
> drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
> it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
> then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
> the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
> very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
> miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
> honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> FrankW wrote:
>
>>Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>>
>>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>>
>>Comments anyone?
>>For me, I always say to drive it normally.

Re: New engine break in procedure
 

LOL, Like I said, Drive it normally, for me anyways

L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Frank,
> All new car engines have been run in at the factory before it was
> installed. Running normally and you risk it never seating the rings to
> fit the cylinder, and it'll use oil and foul spark plugs. I've screwed
> up a lot of rebuilds, due to impatience, couldn't wait to nail that
> Chevy. So I bit my tongue and keep the RPM up above two grand to keep
> the cam from hopping and galling for the first twenty minutes. Then
> drive it direct gear between from a point that would be consider lugging
> it something under two grand, then full throttle to about four grand,
> then slowing and doing it over again, and again and again, never letting
> the throttle just sit and maintain speed for the first fifty miles. Some
> very high end rings like would go down the drag strip at three hundred
> miles and hour from a one minute engine and clutch break in are pre
> honed. http://www.hastingsmfg.com/service_tips.htm
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> FrankW wrote:
>
>>Saw this on the snowmobile newgroup.
>>
>>http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
>>
>>Comments anyone?
>>For me, I always say to drive it normally.