Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
04-03-2006, 10:40 AM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
That pump needs to be primed. Packing it with Vaseline works for this.
I have managed to prime the pumps in the oil pan by back feeding oil
from the filter base, but that won't work on the V6 pump.
My book also calls for a point gap of .022.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
> engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
> mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
> the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
> they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
> clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
> am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
> 40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
> ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.
>
> I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
> the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
> passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
> flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
> what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
> natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
> and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
> "Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.
>
> Bill
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >
I have managed to prime the pumps in the oil pan by back feeding oil
from the filter base, but that won't work on the V6 pump.
My book also calls for a point gap of .022.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
> engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
> mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
> the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
> they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
> clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
> am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
> 40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
> ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.
>
> I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
> the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
> passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
> flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
> what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
> natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
> and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
> "Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.
>
> Bill
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >
04-03-2006, 10:40 AM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
That pump needs to be primed. Packing it with Vaseline works for this.
I have managed to prime the pumps in the oil pan by back feeding oil
from the filter base, but that won't work on the V6 pump.
My book also calls for a point gap of .022.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
> engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
> mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
> the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
> they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
> clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
> am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
> 40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
> ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.
>
> I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
> the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
> passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
> flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
> what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
> natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
> and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
> "Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.
>
> Bill
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >
I have managed to prime the pumps in the oil pan by back feeding oil
from the filter base, but that won't work on the V6 pump.
My book also calls for a point gap of .022.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
> engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
> mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
> the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
> they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
> clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
> am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
> 40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
> ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.
>
> I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
> the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
> passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
> flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
> what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
> natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
> and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
> "Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.
>
> Bill
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >
04-03-2006, 10:40 AM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
That pump needs to be primed. Packing it with Vaseline works for this.
I have managed to prime the pumps in the oil pan by back feeding oil
from the filter base, but that won't work on the V6 pump.
My book also calls for a point gap of .022.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
> engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
> mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
> the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
> they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
> clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
> am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
> 40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
> ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.
>
> I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
> the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
> passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
> flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
> what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
> natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
> and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
> "Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.
>
> Bill
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >
I have managed to prime the pumps in the oil pan by back feeding oil
from the filter base, but that won't work on the V6 pump.
My book also calls for a point gap of .022.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
> engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
> mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
> the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
> they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
> clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
> am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
> 40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
> ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.
>
> I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
> the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
> passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
> flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
> what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
> natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
> and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
> "Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.
>
> Bill
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> >
04-03-2006, 07:01 PM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
..016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Bill Lahr
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>
>
my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
..016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Bill Lahr
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>
>
04-03-2006, 07:01 PM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
..016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Bill Lahr
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>
>
my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
..016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Bill Lahr
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>
>
04-03-2006, 07:01 PM
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
..016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Bill Lahr
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>
>
my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
..016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
Thanks again for all the tips.
Bill Lahr
L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
>
>
04-03-2006, 07:24 PM
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Cool.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
>
> Thanks again for all the tips.
>
> Bill Lahr
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> >
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
>
> Thanks again for all the tips.
>
> Bill Lahr
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> >
04-03-2006, 07:24 PM
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Cool.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
>
> Thanks again for all the tips.
>
> Bill Lahr
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> >
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
>
> Thanks again for all the tips.
>
> Bill Lahr
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> >
04-03-2006, 07:24 PM
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Cool.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
>
> Thanks again for all the tips.
>
> Bill Lahr
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> >
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
>
> Thanks again for all the tips.
>
> Bill Lahr
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > Hi Bill,
> > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> >
04-03-2006, 07:47 PM
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need help from a Buick Oddfire V6 Guru
Ditto.
Mike
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Cool.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> > Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> > my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> > rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> > .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> > bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> > pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> > Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> > rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> > today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> > change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> > valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
> >
> > Thanks again for all the tips.
> >
> > Bill Lahr
> >
> > L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Bill Lahr wrote:
> > >
> > >
Mike
"L.W.(Bill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Cool.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Bill Lahr wrote:
> >
> > Lazarus Lives! Many thanks to all of you here. I spun the oil pump with
> > my drill, finally got it primed. Seated the distributor, aligned so the
> > rotor was between 0 and 5BTDC in a static check (regapped the points to
> > .016 as you suggested.) Cranked it over and it coughed and started! Not
> > bad after sitting for almost 11 years. Alternator works, 30A charge, oil
> > pressure is around 30 psi on fast idle, water temp slowly got to 140.
> > Popped it in reverse, then first, clutch and trans work fine. Started to
> > rain, so I'll have to shut it off for a few days. Picked up some Rislone
> > today, so will change the oil and filter, run that with the next oil
> > change, and hopefully get rid of most of the sludge. I have the PCV
> > valve hooked up now, so that should eliminate sludge in the future.
> >
> > Thanks again for all the tips.
> >
> > Bill Lahr
> >
> > L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > > Hi Bill,
> > > Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> > > drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> > > sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> > > the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> > > vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> > > number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> > > distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> > > Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> > > degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> > > the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> > > turn it out 1/2 turn.
> > > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Bill Lahr wrote:
> > >
> > >