Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
stuff and let yours go to pot.)

Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
strange.

As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.

The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> The relationship between the GM cap lock screws may help:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/buickv6fire.jpg
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> bowgus wrote:
>
>>Have that engine with Rochester 4bbl in the boat ,,, service bulletin
>>says:
>>
>>1. Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until the timing mark
>>on the crankshaft balancer lines up with "0" (TDC) on timing tab and
>>engine is in #1 firing position.
>>2. Look closely at the cam in the distributor. Three lobes have sharper
>>profile than the other three (sharp, round, sharp, round, ... 1 (132
>>dgrees) 6 (108 degrees) 5 (132 degrees) ... and so on ... )
>>3. Install the distributor so that when the rotor is aligned with with
>>the #1 spark plug tower, a rounded lobe is aligned with the rubbing
>>block of the breaker points.
>>4. Secure distributor with clamp and check engine timing with timing
>>light. For what it's worth I set my timing at 8 degrees and use Shell
>>Silver 89 octane.


--

Bill Lahr
mr.bill@pcmagic.net

 

Hi Bill,
Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
turn it out 1/2 turn.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
> it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
> There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
> am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
> properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
> restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
> valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
> stuff and let yours go to pot.)
>
> Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
> roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
> strange.
>
> As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
> keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
> is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
> dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
> ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.
>
> The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
> block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
> and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
> Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
> removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
> treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
> Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
> basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.

 

Hi Bill,
Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
turn it out 1/2 turn.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
> it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
> There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
> am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
> properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
> restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
> valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
> stuff and let yours go to pot.)
>
> Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
> roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
> strange.
>
> As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
> keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
> is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
> dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
> ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.
>
> The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
> block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
> and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
> Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
> removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
> treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
> Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
> basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.

 

Hi Bill,
Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
turn it out 1/2 turn.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
> it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
> There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
> am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
> properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
> restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
> valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
> stuff and let yours go to pot.)
>
> Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
> roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
> strange.
>
> As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
> keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
> is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
> dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
> ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.
>
> The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
> block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
> and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
> Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
> removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
> treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
> Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
> basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.

 

Bill,

Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.

I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
"Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.

Bill
mr.bill@pcmagic.net

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>

 

Bill,

Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.

I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
"Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.

Bill
mr.bill@pcmagic.net

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>

 

Bill,

Did you one better. I pulled the plugs and left valve cover, turned the
engine by hand and watched the valves so I could be 100% sure the TDC
mark is at the #1 compression stroke. My book doesn't specifically list
the Oddfire engines, says .022 for "all Delco distributors." Of course,
they could be referring to the Jeep four-bangers, as it isn't really
clear on that point. As I said, the dwell is not important anyway, as I
am using an aftermarket CD ignition system. I bought three of them about
40 years ago. Plugs last 50K miles and points last forever. I'll go
ahead and regap the points to .016 anyway.

I spun up the oil pump, no flow, so next up is to drop the pan and clean
the pickup screen. Those engines have the pickup in the rear with an oil
passage going through the block to the oil pump in front. Once I get it
flowing with fresh oil, I want to flush the block. Any suggestions on
what to use? The prior owner plugged off the PCV valve (he ran it on
natural gas directly into the manifold for a couple years in the 70's)
and there is some sludge in it that I want to get rid of. I used
"Rislone" years ago, not sure it is still around.

Bill
mr.bill@pcmagic.net

L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> Hi Bill,
> Spine the engine until the distributor drops into the oil pump
> drive, and pull number one spark plug and put your finger in it to make
> sure you're feeling the compression coming up for top dead center. Twist
> the distributor forward clockwise towards number six, usually with the
> vacuum diaphragm that's all it will travel anyway, turn on ignition put
> number one wire where you can see it jump the quarter inch and pull the
> distributor back slowly until you see the discharge and lock it.
> Point gap of .022" is way too wide, should be .016" to be thirty
> degrees of dwell. Old hod rod trick use an 1/8 in. Allen wrench, turn
> the adjusting screw clockwise until the engine begins to misfire, then
> turn it out 1/2 turn.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
>

 

Just so you know, I can set the rotor in any physical position and clock
the wires to match so it runs, except on that odd fire engine. I
believe it has to be correct with the rotor pointing to 5:00 looking
from the front. Hence the round cam lobe setup, vs the sharp one.

As far as the fine tuning goes, you can set the rotor so it is in the
center of the free movement area for the distributor body while pointing
at #1 wire post in the cap. You then set the crank pulley at the notch
for TDC or at the 5 deg mark you want. Then with the key off, you put
your meter set on Ohms across the points and turn the distributor body
until the meter stop beeping or first flickers away from 0. Or you
could have the meter on Volts with the key on and turn the distributor
body until the meter flicks to 12 volts. When this happens, bolt the
distributor down.

This will have your timing statically set at 5 deg. BTDC.

Then you can open up the cap and see where the sucker is 'supposed' to
be....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
> it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
> There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
> am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
> properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
> restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
> valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
> stuff and let yours go to pot.)
>
> Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
> roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
> strange.
>
> As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
> keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
> is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
> dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
> ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.
>
> The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
> block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
> and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
> Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
> removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
> treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
> Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
> basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > The relationship between the GM cap lock screws may help:
> > http://www.----------.com/temp/buickv6fire.jpg
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:--------------------
> >
> > bowgus wrote:
> >
> >>Have that engine with Rochester 4bbl in the boat ,,, service bulletin
> >>says:
> >>
> >>1. Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until the timing mark
> >>on the crankshaft balancer lines up with "0" (TDC) on timing tab and
> >>engine is in #1 firing position.
> >>2. Look closely at the cam in the distributor. Three lobes have sharper
> >>profile than the other three (sharp, round, sharp, round, ... 1 (132
> >>dgrees) 6 (108 degrees) 5 (132 degrees) ... and so on ... )
> >>3. Install the distributor so that when the rotor is aligned with with
> >>the #1 spark plug tower, a rounded lobe is aligned with the rubbing
> >>block of the breaker points.
> >>4. Secure distributor with clamp and check engine timing with timing
> >>light. For what it's worth I set my timing at 8 degrees and use Shell
> >>Silver 89 octane.
>
> --
>
> Bill Lahr
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net

 

Just so you know, I can set the rotor in any physical position and clock
the wires to match so it runs, except on that odd fire engine. I
believe it has to be correct with the rotor pointing to 5:00 looking
from the front. Hence the round cam lobe setup, vs the sharp one.

As far as the fine tuning goes, you can set the rotor so it is in the
center of the free movement area for the distributor body while pointing
at #1 wire post in the cap. You then set the crank pulley at the notch
for TDC or at the 5 deg mark you want. Then with the key off, you put
your meter set on Ohms across the points and turn the distributor body
until the meter stop beeping or first flickers away from 0. Or you
could have the meter on Volts with the key on and turn the distributor
body until the meter flicks to 12 volts. When this happens, bolt the
distributor down.

This will have your timing statically set at 5 deg. BTDC.

Then you can open up the cap and see where the sucker is 'supposed' to
be....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
> it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
> There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
> am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
> properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
> restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
> valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
> stuff and let yours go to pot.)
>
> Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
> roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
> strange.
>
> As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
> keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
> is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
> dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
> ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.
>
> The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
> block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
> and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
> Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
> removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
> treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
> Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
> basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > The relationship between the GM cap lock screws may help:
> > http://www.----------.com/temp/buickv6fire.jpg
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:--------------------
> >
> > bowgus wrote:
> >
> >>Have that engine with Rochester 4bbl in the boat ,,, service bulletin
> >>says:
> >>
> >>1. Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until the timing mark
> >>on the crankshaft balancer lines up with "0" (TDC) on timing tab and
> >>engine is in #1 firing position.
> >>2. Look closely at the cam in the distributor. Three lobes have sharper
> >>profile than the other three (sharp, round, sharp, round, ... 1 (132
> >>dgrees) 6 (108 degrees) 5 (132 degrees) ... and so on ... )
> >>3. Install the distributor so that when the rotor is aligned with with
> >>the #1 spark plug tower, a rounded lobe is aligned with the rubbing
> >>block of the breaker points.
> >>4. Secure distributor with clamp and check engine timing with timing
> >>light. For what it's worth I set my timing at 8 degrees and use Shell
> >>Silver 89 octane.
>
> --
>
> Bill Lahr
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net

 

Just so you know, I can set the rotor in any physical position and clock
the wires to match so it runs, except on that odd fire engine. I
believe it has to be correct with the rotor pointing to 5:00 looking
from the front. Hence the round cam lobe setup, vs the sharp one.

As far as the fine tuning goes, you can set the rotor so it is in the
center of the free movement area for the distributor body while pointing
at #1 wire post in the cap. You then set the crank pulley at the notch
for TDC or at the 5 deg mark you want. Then with the key off, you put
your meter set on Ohms across the points and turn the distributor body
until the meter stop beeping or first flickers away from 0. Or you
could have the meter on Volts with the key on and turn the distributor
body until the meter flicks to 12 volts. When this happens, bolt the
distributor down.

This will have your timing statically set at 5 deg. BTDC.

Then you can open up the cap and see where the sucker is 'supposed' to
be....

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Bill Lahr wrote:
>
> Thanks to all of you. I can rotate the distributor body enough to line
> it up at #1 or between #1 and #6, depending upon how I seat the shaft.
> There are some hoses and the vacuum advance that limit the adjustment. I
> am assuming the guy who gave me the Jeep installed the new timing chain
> properly, since he worked for Hillcrest Cadillac in LA for a time,
> restoring the antique cars for the Willet H. Brown collection. Some were
> valued at more than $600,000. (Typical mechanic, fix other peoples'
> stuff and let yours go to pot.)
>
> Yes, I have a timing light, but I wanted to set it with a meter to
> roughly 5BTDC before I attempt to start it. The oddfire distributor is
> strange.
>
> As to the cam lobes, this is of no importance because the rotor cap is
> keyed and can only fit one way. I set the point gap at .022, but there
> is a door on the side of the distributor cap that will let me adjust the
> dwell once it is running. I have an aftermarket capacitor discharge
> ignition system for it so the dwell isn't that important.
>
> The jeep sat outside for over ten years with water in the radiator. The
> block, heads and intake manifold are cast iron. I had to use a hammer
> and chisel to open up the water passages, then followed it with Prestone
> Super Flush "for neglected cooling systems." It did a nice job of
> removing the rust. Water seems to be flowing fine now. Once the
> treatments are done, it will be filled with coolant and water. Ithas a
> Cadillac radiator, so it shouldn't overheat. The jeep qualified as a
> basket case, but I am 99% sure I can get it running again.
>
> L.W.(Bill) ------ III wrote:
> > The relationship between the GM cap lock screws may help:
> > http://www.----------.com/temp/buickv6fire.jpg
> > God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> > mailto:--------------------
> >
> > bowgus wrote:
> >
> >>Have that engine with Rochester 4bbl in the boat ,,, service bulletin
> >>says:
> >>
> >>1. Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until the timing mark
> >>on the crankshaft balancer lines up with "0" (TDC) on timing tab and
> >>engine is in #1 firing position.
> >>2. Look closely at the cam in the distributor. Three lobes have sharper
> >>profile than the other three (sharp, round, sharp, round, ... 1 (132
> >>dgrees) 6 (108 degrees) 5 (132 degrees) ... and so on ... )
> >>3. Install the distributor so that when the rotor is aligned with with
> >>the #1 spark plug tower, a rounded lobe is aligned with the rubbing
> >>block of the breaker points.
> >>4. Secure distributor with clamp and check engine timing with timing
> >>light. For what it's worth I set my timing at 8 degrees and use Shell
> >>Silver 89 octane.
>
> --
>
> Bill Lahr
> mr.bill@pcmagic.net