Mike Romain

Price is right, that's for sure.

I am 'VERY' wary of a 'mechanic' selling 'extra' vehicles with no plates
so you can't test drive them! That is the biggest scam going and they
are commonly called 'curbers'. They are illegal up here in Ontario
Canada.

Also be warned that 'mechanics' dumping vehicles usually means the thing
is 'waaaayyyy' to much trouble to keep running.

As noted power everything can be 'fun' to say the least. I have figured
from what I have seen that old XJ's with power everything cannot be off
roaded and still be expected to function.....

'I' turned down one like you described a few weeks ago. It was nice
looking, but power everything just won't work for us because we bush run
both our Jeeps. The guy also liked it way too much by the price he was
asking. Price not withstanding, the power windows are a deal breaker.
It is still sitting there too....

Other than that, check the driver's side floor panels to see if there is
any metal left. Check the air filter to see how much blow by or oil is
being blown into the filter. If the air filter is new, run away fast.
(air filters get changed with oil changes, the oil is old, if the air
filter is new, it is a cover up) With 150K, expect 'some' oil in the
filter.

I also highly recommend you spend $50.00 or so and have an independent
mechanic give it a once over. Could be a well spent fifty bucks.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jay wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J

Mike Romain

Price is right, that's for sure.

I am 'VERY' wary of a 'mechanic' selling 'extra' vehicles with no plates
so you can't test drive them! That is the biggest scam going and they
are commonly called 'curbers'. They are illegal up here in Ontario
Canada.

Also be warned that 'mechanics' dumping vehicles usually means the thing
is 'waaaayyyy' to much trouble to keep running.

As noted power everything can be 'fun' to say the least. I have figured
from what I have seen that old XJ's with power everything cannot be off
roaded and still be expected to function.....

'I' turned down one like you described a few weeks ago. It was nice
looking, but power everything just won't work for us because we bush run
both our Jeeps. The guy also liked it way too much by the price he was
asking. Price not withstanding, the power windows are a deal breaker.
It is still sitting there too....

Other than that, check the driver's side floor panels to see if there is
any metal left. Check the air filter to see how much blow by or oil is
being blown into the filter. If the air filter is new, run away fast.
(air filters get changed with oil changes, the oil is old, if the air
filter is new, it is a cover up) With 150K, expect 'some' oil in the
filter.

I also highly recommend you spend $50.00 or so and have an independent
mechanic give it a once over. Could be a well spent fifty bucks.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jay wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J

Mike Romain

Price is right, that's for sure.

I am 'VERY' wary of a 'mechanic' selling 'extra' vehicles with no plates
so you can't test drive them! That is the biggest scam going and they
are commonly called 'curbers'. They are illegal up here in Ontario
Canada.

Also be warned that 'mechanics' dumping vehicles usually means the thing
is 'waaaayyyy' to much trouble to keep running.

As noted power everything can be 'fun' to say the least. I have figured
from what I have seen that old XJ's with power everything cannot be off
roaded and still be expected to function.....

'I' turned down one like you described a few weeks ago. It was nice
looking, but power everything just won't work for us because we bush run
both our Jeeps. The guy also liked it way too much by the price he was
asking. Price not withstanding, the power windows are a deal breaker.
It is still sitting there too....

Other than that, check the driver's side floor panels to see if there is
any metal left. Check the air filter to see how much blow by or oil is
being blown into the filter. If the air filter is new, run away fast.
(air filters get changed with oil changes, the oil is old, if the air
filter is new, it is a cover up) With 150K, expect 'some' oil in the
filter.

I also highly recommend you spend $50.00 or so and have an independent
mechanic give it a once over. Could be a well spent fifty bucks.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

Jay wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J

Jay

Hello again,

First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
seems well.

The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
want a good hauler, heh.

A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.
Hence the waivering on the decision. ugh! I'm due to go check it out
again today and I'll look over the areas you folks mentioned. It's good
to know the trouble spots for these vehicles. Being the weekend and
having a holiday tomorrow means I can't take it to another mechanic for
a few days. Of course, getting it there could be a problem, haha. Seems
I have a little more thinking to do on this one. Again, thanks for the
great input here. And keep it coming. I still have a little while
before I head over there. Have a good one!

~J

Jay

Hello again,

First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
seems well.

The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
want a good hauler, heh.

A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.
Hence the waivering on the decision. ugh! I'm due to go check it out
again today and I'll look over the areas you folks mentioned. It's good
to know the trouble spots for these vehicles. Being the weekend and
having a holiday tomorrow means I can't take it to another mechanic for
a few days. Of course, getting it there could be a problem, haha. Seems
I have a little more thinking to do on this one. Again, thanks for the
great input here. And keep it coming. I still have a little while
before I head over there. Have a good one!

~J

Jay

Hello again,

First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
seems well.

The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
want a good hauler, heh.

A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.
Hence the waivering on the decision. ugh! I'm due to go check it out
again today and I'll look over the areas you folks mentioned. It's good
to know the trouble spots for these vehicles. Being the weekend and
having a holiday tomorrow means I can't take it to another mechanic for
a few days. Of course, getting it there could be a problem, haha. Seems
I have a little more thinking to do on this one. Again, thanks for the
great input here. And keep it coming. I still have a little while
before I head over there. Have a good one!

~J

Jay

Hello again,

First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
seems well.

The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
want a good hauler, heh.

A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.
Hence the waivering on the decision. ugh! I'm due to go check it out
again today and I'll look over the areas you folks mentioned. It's good
to know the trouble spots for these vehicles. Being the weekend and
having a holiday tomorrow means I can't take it to another mechanic for
a few days. Of course, getting it there could be a problem, haha. Seems
I have a little more thinking to do on this one. Again, thanks for the
great input here. And keep it coming. I still have a little while
before I head over there. Have a good one!

~J

Lon

Jay proclaimed:
> Hello again,
>
> First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
> mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
> troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
> I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
> that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
> I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
> around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
> concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
> seems well.
>
> The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
> rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
> and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
> a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
> I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
> for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
> want a good hauler, heh.

Check the title as well. It may be a mechanics lein car, or it may be a
watersoaked refurb with a washed title from New Orleans. If the title
is at all new or out of state, pass.
>
> A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
> his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
> makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
> could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.

Was it a trade or was it a case where the owner didn't want to pay for
repairs after they were done and let the mechanic have the title?

Lon

Jay proclaimed:
> Hello again,
>
> First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
> mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
> troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
> I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
> that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
> I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
> around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
> concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
> seems well.
>
> The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
> rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
> and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
> a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
> I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
> for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
> want a good hauler, heh.

Check the title as well. It may be a mechanics lein car, or it may be a
watersoaked refurb with a washed title from New Orleans. If the title
is at all new or out of state, pass.
>
> A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
> his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
> makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
> could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.

Was it a trade or was it a case where the owner didn't want to pay for
repairs after they were done and let the mechanic have the title?

Lon

Jay proclaimed:
> Hello again,
>
> First off, many thanks for the great input here. I didn't even think to
> mention the rust thing. I checked it over (without knowing the
> troublespots for the Jeep line) and could not find any rust. If I had,
> I probably would not have given it a second thought. I have to admit
> that the mechanic selling it is my biggest cause for pause. I hate that
> I have such a distrust for mechanics.... it should be the opposite way
> around, but that's cause for another topic altogether. My biggest
> concern is the milage and the mechanic. I gave it a look over and all
> seems well.
>
> The price (I'm in Virginia, not much snow, not much salt- and on the
> rare occasions where we do get snow everyone buys their bread and milk
> and enjoys their day off of work.... such wimps!) has me stumped. It's
> a good price in my opinion, with the going rate for Jeeps in the area,
> I could resell it with no problems (or so I think, judging the average
> for simular Jeeps at or well above $2000). But I'm not a dealer, I just
> want a good hauler, heh.

Check the title as well. It may be a mechanics lein car, or it may be a
watersoaked refurb with a washed title from New Orleans. If the title
is at all new or out of state, pass.
>
> A little more on the mechanic thing.... The vehicle is at his house,
> his house has a good number of cars at it. They all have plates. It
> makes sense that the vehicle was a trade for work performed. But I
> could look at it from a thousand different perspectives, who knows.

Was it a trade or was it a case where the owner didn't want to pay for
repairs after they were done and let the mechanic have the title?