need advice on purchase
Guest
Posts: n/a
need advice on purchase
Hi all
I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
usually much more reassuring.
OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
(I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
$1500, I've got him down to $1200.
Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
(assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
tough too.
I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
considering the size/power?
OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
~J
I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
usually much more reassuring.
OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
(I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
$1500, I've got him down to $1200.
Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
(assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
tough too.
I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
considering the size/power?
OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
~J
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
I've got a 99 xj. Before that a 96 and before that a 89 all in a year and a
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
I've got a 99 xj. Before that a 96 and before that a 89 all in a year and a
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
I've got a 99 xj. Before that a 96 and before that a 89 all in a year and a
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
I've got a 99 xj. Before that a 96 and before that a 89 all in a year and a
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
half. The 89 was cheap so I bought it. The 89 had stick shift and 2 doors.
Fixed it up and sold it to my son and got the 96. It's a 4 door automatic
with power windows and locks with mag rims. Wanted a newer one to keep for a
long while since they're not making them anymore. Sold the son's 89 for him,
he got the 96 and my "new" one is a 99. Since you can't drive it on the road
should get you a better price unless it's really nice. However if they use
the slightest bit of salt on the roads where you are the floors are most
likely gone under the seats and where you put your feet. the metal is/was
thin and it didn't take much for it to rust through. But there's replacement
panels available in two length. Front seat/footwell area of front footwell
to rear seat. They drink gas. In the winter and short trips 12 mpg is what I
get. Highway in warm weather 20-22 mpg. They're real handy vehicles. The
fellow across the street has a 95 and earns his living doing small
remolding/fixit work and his xj works out fine.
JoBo
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
It is an XJ. 9 times out of 10 they are good solid trucks. Be sure the
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
It is an XJ. 9 times out of 10 they are good solid trucks. Be sure the
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
It is an XJ. 9 times out of 10 they are good solid trucks. Be sure the
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
It is an XJ. 9 times out of 10 they are good solid trucks. Be sure the
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
heater and AC work well. I can't think of any common expensive problems for
an XJ. I've had two, both were awesome, dependable trucks.
Carl
"Jay" <justwhite@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1140310288.764059.14860@f14g2000cwb.googlegro ups.com...
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
>
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need advice on purchase
Price is right, that's for sure.
I am 'VERY' wary of a 'mechanic' selling 'extra' vehicles with no plates
so you can't test drive them! That is the biggest scam going and they
are commonly called 'curbers'. They are illegal up here in Ontario
Canada.
Also be warned that 'mechanics' dumping vehicles usually means the thing
is 'waaaayyyy' to much trouble to keep running.
As noted power everything can be 'fun' to say the least. I have figured
from what I have seen that old XJ's with power everything cannot be off
roaded and still be expected to function.....
'I' turned down one like you described a few weeks ago. It was nice
looking, but power everything just won't work for us because we bush run
both our Jeeps. The guy also liked it way too much by the price he was
asking. Price not withstanding, the power windows are a deal breaker.
It is still sitting there too....
Other than that, check the driver's side floor panels to see if there is
any metal left. Check the air filter to see how much blow by or oil is
being blown into the filter. If the air filter is new, run away fast.
(air filters get changed with oil changes, the oil is old, if the air
filter is new, it is a cover up) With 150K, expect 'some' oil in the
filter.
I also highly recommend you spend $50.00 or so and have an independent
mechanic give it a once over. Could be a well spent fifty bucks.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
I am 'VERY' wary of a 'mechanic' selling 'extra' vehicles with no plates
so you can't test drive them! That is the biggest scam going and they
are commonly called 'curbers'. They are illegal up here in Ontario
Canada.
Also be warned that 'mechanics' dumping vehicles usually means the thing
is 'waaaayyyy' to much trouble to keep running.
As noted power everything can be 'fun' to say the least. I have figured
from what I have seen that old XJ's with power everything cannot be off
roaded and still be expected to function.....
'I' turned down one like you described a few weeks ago. It was nice
looking, but power everything just won't work for us because we bush run
both our Jeeps. The guy also liked it way too much by the price he was
asking. Price not withstanding, the power windows are a deal breaker.
It is still sitting there too....
Other than that, check the driver's side floor panels to see if there is
any metal left. Check the air filter to see how much blow by or oil is
being blown into the filter. If the air filter is new, run away fast.
(air filters get changed with oil changes, the oil is old, if the air
filter is new, it is a cover up) With 150K, expect 'some' oil in the
filter.
I also highly recommend you spend $50.00 or so and have an independent
mechanic give it a once over. Could be a well spent fifty bucks.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Jay wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I'm new here, but I must say that while browsing through the previous
> topics, I can see a good number of you know your stuff. I'm considering
> buying a 91 Cherokee Laredo (from what I can tell it's an XJ, but
> please feel free to correct me). I've tried best I can to find out the
> things to look for, but a direct or at least specific response is
> usually much more reassuring.
>
> OK, here's the details. 91 Cherokee Laredo, 152k miles, 4L In-line 6
> (I've read good things about this one, which is why I'm cosidering one
> with that many miles). Body is in pretty decend condition (a little
> fading, but no rust- par for a teenager). It's got power windows, locks
> etc (only reason I mention is because I understand that the wiring in
> these things can be... "fussy"). No leaks, standard wear in the engine
> compartment (appropriate wear for older car, no powerwashes, hehe). The
> front diff. doesn't show any signs of leaks, and the transmission it
> pulls strong. I did notice that it took a second to switch from nuetral
> to reverse, and it seemed to shift hard, not a lerch, but you can tell
> it's harder than a car would feel. I've not driven a 4wd or variable
> drive vehicle before, so this might very well be normal in these,
> again, imput is highly appreciated. Here's the tricky part, I can't
> drive it. It doesn't have tags on it at the moment so a test drive
> would be illegal. I drove it around the fellow's yard a little and the
> power steering seems to do just fine. I could tell it hadn't been
> started in a while because it took a turn or two before it caught. I'm
> going to look at it again tomorrow and will take notice of how it
> starts up when I get there. White smoke from the exhaust the exhaust,
> but not thick like a coolant leak, and it was mid 30's, so I expect a
> little is ok. That went away after it warmed up. It's has not been
> lifted, or altered in any way that I is apparent. It has a brand new
> inspection. All fluids were in the proper ranges and the oil, although
> needing to be changed wasn't thick like the 20w50 that I understand is
> not so good for these engines (or more commonly used when the engine
> starts to drink it). I'm not a certified mechanic, but I learned how to
> work on my cars since day one owning one (couldn't afford mechanics,
> but I could afford the Chilton/Hayes manuals, hehe).
>
> I can get a destination pass from the DMV that will let me drive it
> around, so that might releive a number of my hang-ups about this one...
>
> The fellow is selling it because he is a mechanic and he has too many
> cars already. Story made short: One of his customers had work done on a
> Dodge Truck, couldn't afford the bill so he signed his Jeep to the
> mechanic for compensation. The title is clear and signed over, he
> hasn't transferred it to himself, hence the lack of tags and the cause
> of this little dillemna. He's said that he's looked over it and all is
> well, he just wants to reclaim his losses from work done. He's asking
> $1500, I've got him down to $1200.
>
> Here's where you folks come into play. I'm looking for any advice you
> might have on it, things to look for, quirks, and things that ususally
> fail at around this mile range. From what I can tell, the inline 6 on
> these things have a reputation of being bullet proof, and the trannies
> (assuming they aren't run in 4wd while on solid asphault) are pretty
> tough too.
>
> I want to be a little reassured that I can depend on this vehicle. I
> don't really mind having to replace things like a starter, alternator,
> etc, etc; Engine and Transmission problems have caused me headaches
> like nothing else, though (GM's grrrr!!) I walk to work, but I
> occasionally do side work and need something I can haul tools,
> materials etc around in but still be comfortable driving. I don't
> expect Hybrid gas milage with this engine, but do they do ok,
> considering the size/power?
>
> OK, I think that about wraps it up. Thanks for taking the time to look
> over this and again, any opinions, advice or the like are very welcome
> and greatly appreciated. Have a good one!
>
> ~J
