Just to double check, like Mike, guessed, that your joints aren't
ninety degrees out of time, they should look like:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg If you're
using your old shaft, shorten to except the constant velocity, and the
weights you see may not be on. My shafts after they were chucked up and
turned came in perfect, but those of my friend that weren't as luck put
a couple of ounces of Automatic Transmission Fluid inside. Works like
your washing machine's centrifugal force finds a level.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> Okay, thanks, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something obvious that
> I missed. I guess not, so I'll probably have to get it balanced again. Too
> bad there's no shops in my city that can do that.
>
> /Peter

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41409046.205A68FA@sympatico.ca...
> It's recent? Different animal then I guess.
>
> Have you given the joints a real close look? It's a double cardan isn't
> it or is it a real 'CV' joint with ball bearings?

It's a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft",
referred to as a "CV drive shaft" despite having no true CV joint in it.
The convention of referring to these things as "CV drive shafts" is so
universal that I'm not going to bother quibbling about the terminology. See
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...aft/index.html for more.

> I find our organic mud destroys the 'heavy duty' non grease u-joints in
> less than a year, are yours like that? If so then I would suspect a
> dry/burned by the mud cap and bearings on one of the joints.

All the joints in this shaft are the greasable type (there's even a fitting
for the centering ball) and have been greased regularly. I have the
non-greasable stock joints in the axle shafts and the stock front
driveshaft, but they haven't needed replacing. I've only had to replace one
bad u-joint in the three years I've been off-roading this rig, and it was
the greasable type.

> I test it with tires blocked in neutral so the shaft is floating and
> look for the slightest play. 'Any' play will cause a vibe.

Yep, been done with no play. I'll check it again though, just in case.

/Peter

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41409046.205A68FA@sympatico.ca...
> It's recent? Different animal then I guess.
>
> Have you given the joints a real close look? It's a double cardan isn't
> it or is it a real 'CV' joint with ball bearings?

It's a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft",
referred to as a "CV drive shaft" despite having no true CV joint in it.
The convention of referring to these things as "CV drive shafts" is so
universal that I'm not going to bother quibbling about the terminology. See
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...aft/index.html for more.

> I find our organic mud destroys the 'heavy duty' non grease u-joints in
> less than a year, are yours like that? If so then I would suspect a
> dry/burned by the mud cap and bearings on one of the joints.

All the joints in this shaft are the greasable type (there's even a fitting
for the centering ball) and have been greased regularly. I have the
non-greasable stock joints in the axle shafts and the stock front
driveshaft, but they haven't needed replacing. I've only had to replace one
bad u-joint in the three years I've been off-roading this rig, and it was
the greasable type.

> I test it with tires blocked in neutral so the shaft is floating and
> look for the slightest play. 'Any' play will cause a vibe.

Yep, been done with no play. I'll check it again though, just in case.

/Peter

 

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:41409046.205A68FA@sympatico.ca...
> It's recent? Different animal then I guess.
>
> Have you given the joints a real close look? It's a double cardan isn't
> it or is it a real 'CV' joint with ball bearings?

It's a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft",
referred to as a "CV drive shaft" despite having no true CV joint in it.
The convention of referring to these things as "CV drive shafts" is so
universal that I'm not going to bother quibbling about the terminology. See
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...aft/index.html for more.

> I find our organic mud destroys the 'heavy duty' non grease u-joints in
> less than a year, are yours like that? If so then I would suspect a
> dry/burned by the mud cap and bearings on one of the joints.

All the joints in this shaft are the greasable type (there's even a fitting
for the centering ball) and have been greased regularly. I have the
non-greasable stock joints in the axle shafts and the stock front
driveshaft, but they haven't needed replacing. I've only had to replace one
bad u-joint in the three years I've been off-roading this rig, and it was
the greasable type.

> I test it with tires blocked in neutral so the shaft is floating and
> look for the slightest play. 'Any' play will cause a vibe.

Yep, been done with no play. I'll check it again though, just in case.

/Peter

 

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:414090F7.3890F9F8@***.net...
> Just to double check, like Mike, guessed, that your joints aren't
> ninety degrees out of time, they should look like:
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg

That's exactly what they look like, as shipped by Tom Wood's.

> If you're
> using your old shaft, shorten to except the constant velocity, and the
> weights you see may not be on.

Nope, as mentioned previously this is a Tom Wood's shaft, with all the
welded-on balance weights it was shipped with still in place. I'm pretty
sure I'd see evidence of broken welds if one of the weights was gone. I did
manage to knock the grease fitting for the slip member off a while back and
had to fit a new one. I find it hard to believe that that would cause this
vibration though.

> My shafts after they were chucked up and
> turned came in perfect, but those of my friend that weren't as luck put
> a couple of ounces of Automatic Transmission Fluid inside. Works like
> your washing machine's centrifugal force finds a level.

Well now, that's an interesting idea. What does one do, drill a hole in the
tube, toss in a couple shot glasses of ATF, and weld it up again? Would this
work in a shaft with only two or three inches of tube?

/Peter

 

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:414090F7.3890F9F8@***.net...
> Just to double check, like Mike, guessed, that your joints aren't
> ninety degrees out of time, they should look like:
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg

That's exactly what they look like, as shipped by Tom Wood's.

> If you're
> using your old shaft, shorten to except the constant velocity, and the
> weights you see may not be on.

Nope, as mentioned previously this is a Tom Wood's shaft, with all the
welded-on balance weights it was shipped with still in place. I'm pretty
sure I'd see evidence of broken welds if one of the weights was gone. I did
manage to knock the grease fitting for the slip member off a while back and
had to fit a new one. I find it hard to believe that that would cause this
vibration though.

> My shafts after they were chucked up and
> turned came in perfect, but those of my friend that weren't as luck put
> a couple of ounces of Automatic Transmission Fluid inside. Works like
> your washing machine's centrifugal force finds a level.

Well now, that's an interesting idea. What does one do, drill a hole in the
tube, toss in a couple shot glasses of ATF, and weld it up again? Would this
work in a shaft with only two or three inches of tube?

/Peter

 

"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:414090F7.3890F9F8@***.net...
> Just to double check, like Mike, guessed, that your joints aren't
> ninety degrees out of time, they should look like:
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg

That's exactly what they look like, as shipped by Tom Wood's.

> If you're
> using your old shaft, shorten to except the constant velocity, and the
> weights you see may not be on.

Nope, as mentioned previously this is a Tom Wood's shaft, with all the
welded-on balance weights it was shipped with still in place. I'm pretty
sure I'd see evidence of broken welds if one of the weights was gone. I did
manage to knock the grease fitting for the slip member off a while back and
had to fit a new one. I find it hard to believe that that would cause this
vibration though.

> My shafts after they were chucked up and
> turned came in perfect, but those of my friend that weren't as luck put
> a couple of ounces of Automatic Transmission Fluid inside. Works like
> your washing machine's centrifugal force finds a level.

Well now, that's an interesting idea. What does one do, drill a hole in the
tube, toss in a couple shot glasses of ATF, and weld it up again? Would this
work in a shaft with only two or three inches of tube?

/Peter

 

The oscillation we're worried about is the lengthwise weight, and
there is none with a constant velocity main section. Other than a little
at the single joint slip joint, and that is minimal if the pinion yoke
is aligned with the shaft, as pictured:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> It's a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft",
> referred to as a "CV drive shaft" despite having no true CV joint in it.
> The convention of referring to these things as "CV drive shafts" is so
> universal that I'm not going to bother quibbling about the terminology. See
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...aft/index.html for more.
>
> All the joints in this shaft are the greasable type (there's even a fitting
> for the centering ball) and have been greased regularly. I have the
> non-greasable stock joints in the axle shafts and the stock front
> driveshaft, but they haven't needed replacing. I've only had to replace one
> bad u-joint in the three years I've been off-roading this rig, and it was
> the greasable type.
>
> Yep, been done with no play. I'll check it again though, just in case.
>
> /Peter

 

The oscillation we're worried about is the lengthwise weight, and
there is none with a constant velocity main section. Other than a little
at the single joint slip joint, and that is minimal if the pinion yoke
is aligned with the shaft, as pictured:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> It's a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft",
> referred to as a "CV drive shaft" despite having no true CV joint in it.
> The convention of referring to these things as "CV drive shafts" is so
> universal that I'm not going to bother quibbling about the terminology. See
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...aft/index.html for more.
>
> All the joints in this shaft are the greasable type (there's even a fitting
> for the centering ball) and have been greased regularly. I have the
> non-greasable stock joints in the axle shafts and the stock front
> driveshaft, but they haven't needed replacing. I've only had to replace one
> bad u-joint in the three years I've been off-roading this rig, and it was
> the greasable type.
>
> Yep, been done with no play. I'll check it again though, just in case.
>
> /Peter

 

The oscillation we're worried about is the lengthwise weight, and
there is none with a constant velocity main section. Other than a little
at the single joint slip joint, and that is minimal if the pinion yoke
is aligned with the shaft, as pictured:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/reviews/...iveshaftin.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Peter Pontbriand wrote:
>
> It's a "near constant velocity, double-cardan-style universal joint shaft",
> referred to as a "CV drive shaft" despite having no true CV joint in it.
> The convention of referring to these things as "CV drive shafts" is so
> universal that I'm not going to bother quibbling about the terminology. See
> http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...aft/index.html for more.
>
> All the joints in this shaft are the greasable type (there's even a fitting
> for the centering ball) and have been greased regularly. I have the
> non-greasable stock joints in the axle shafts and the stock front
> driveshaft, but they haven't needed replacing. I've only had to replace one
> bad u-joint in the three years I've been off-roading this rig, and it was
> the greasable type.
>
> Yep, been done with no play. I'll check it again though, just in case.
>
> /Peter