Paul Brogren

Hi Mike,
Really sorry to hear of your accident. Get well friend.

Coincidentally, I've got the same thing happening with the sentra. I know
it's sort of off topic, but along the same line. It left my wife walkin'
the other day. When I got to where the car was it was dead dead. I pulled
the battery and put it on my charger until topped off. Went to the car
started it, got it home. Checked my connections with and without engine
running. I know this is not the best thing to do, but I disconnected the
negative battery terminal, with the engine on, and it died. Mind you, this
is the second alternator to crap in this vehicle. This one only lasted 8
months! Strange? The odd thing this time was that red idiot light on the
dash was not lit up like it was when the original one died. Could this be
because the battery was nearly full? Only had to drive it about a mile and
half. My wife couldn't remember or didn't notice a red light on.
Fortunately, this has a lifetime warrantee and Auto Zone handed over a
replacement without question. Pretty impressed. They had all my warrantee
info in their computer system. Didn't need the receipt even though I had it
with me.

--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.



"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FA990EA.7BB2DACC@sympatico.ca...
> GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator.
>
> It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power
> wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire
> in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger
> side of the brake booster.
>
> When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns
> too.
>
> I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a
> voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire.
> It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the
> red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put
> the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection
> between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery
> pretty fast.
>
> I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough
> physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in
> recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on
> the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I
> have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a
> stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn
> wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to
> turn wrenches....
>
> If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the
> engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time
> and see if the volts drop.
>
> Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator
> case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same.
>
> Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt
> on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid
> wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery.
>
> If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad.
>
> Mike
>
> travis wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
> > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
> >
> > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
> > >up) fan belt.
> >
> > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your
> > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that
> > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've
> > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years
> > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the
> > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank
> > you for the suggestion.
> >
> > >
> > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
> > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
> > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
> > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
> > >rubber case is cooked.
> > >
> > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
> > >alternator.
> > >
> > >Mike
> > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > >travis wrote:
> > >>
> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
> > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
> > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
> > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an
alternator,
> > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
> > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
> > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read
right
> > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
> > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
> > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
> > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery
so
> > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
> > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
> > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
> > >> you.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Travis
> > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> > >> :wq!
> >
> > --
> > Travis
> > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> > :wq!

Paul Brogren

Hi Mike,
Really sorry to hear of your accident. Get well friend.

Coincidentally, I've got the same thing happening with the sentra. I know
it's sort of off topic, but along the same line. It left my wife walkin'
the other day. When I got to where the car was it was dead dead. I pulled
the battery and put it on my charger until topped off. Went to the car
started it, got it home. Checked my connections with and without engine
running. I know this is not the best thing to do, but I disconnected the
negative battery terminal, with the engine on, and it died. Mind you, this
is the second alternator to crap in this vehicle. This one only lasted 8
months! Strange? The odd thing this time was that red idiot light on the
dash was not lit up like it was when the original one died. Could this be
because the battery was nearly full? Only had to drive it about a mile and
half. My wife couldn't remember or didn't notice a red light on.
Fortunately, this has a lifetime warrantee and Auto Zone handed over a
replacement without question. Pretty impressed. They had all my warrantee
info in their computer system. Didn't need the receipt even though I had it
with me.

--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.



"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:3FA990EA.7BB2DACC@sympatico.ca...
> GM ones have a 3rd 'excite' wire to turn on the alternator.
>
> It is a thin (usually brown) solid core wire that tags the coil power
> wire on the 12 volt side of the coil's ballast resistor or ballast wire
> in the CJ's. On the CJ's it tags the harness right to the passenger
> side of the brake booster.
>
> When I turn my current alternator pulley, did it today, the crank turns
> too.
>
> I have a really swingy alternator volt gauge right now and have a
> voltage drop from the battery center post to the alternator red wire.
> It also drops at the solenoid bolt and on the red wire's O ring and the
> red wire where it goes into the cable clamp on the battery. If I put
> the meter on the positive cable clamp, I have no drop, so the connection
> between the clamp and the main wire is toast which kills my battery
> pretty fast.
>
> I just keep on charging up my battery because I am not in good enough
> physical shape right now to take the sucker apart and clean it. I am in
> recovery from a nasty car accident I was a passenger in. T-bone hit on
> the passenger door where I was sitting. Physiotherapy says I am lucky I
> have a 19.5" neck or it likely would have been broken and I have had a
> stroke from my head hitting the door post. I am not allowed to turn
> wrenches, or better said I am not allowed to bend in the right ways to
> turn wrenches....
>
> If you use the meter on 20 volts, check the two battery posts with the
> engine running, then move the meter probes to the clamps one at a time
> and see if the volts drop.
>
> Then have the red meter probe on the positive and go to the alternator
> case, the volts must be 'exactly' the same.
>
> Then hold the black meter probe on the neg post and go to the red bolt
> on the alternator, then back to the solenoid bolt, then to the solenoid
> wire cable loop, then to the red wire clamp on the battery.
>
> If the voltage drops even 0.01 volts, the connection is bad.
>
> Mike
>
> travis wrote:
> >
> > On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
> > <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
> >
> > >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
> > >up) fan belt.
> >
> > The fan belt seems nice and uh...grippy. I like the sound of your
> > suggestion. I'll give it a look. I just found my multi-meter so that
> > should help. I only have 2 wires hooked up to my alternator... I've
> > changed out only probably 2 alternators before this one over the years
> > but I could have sworn there was a third wire on them. I'll trace the
> > main red wire like you describe and *hope* to find it's fried. Thank
> > you for the suggestion.
> >
> > >
> > >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
> > >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
> > >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
> > >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
> > >rubber case is cooked.
> > >
> > >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
> > >alternator.
> > >
> > >Mike
> > >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > >
> > >travis wrote:
> > >>
> > >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
> > >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
> > >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
> > >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an
alternator,
> > >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
> > >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
> > >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read
right
> > >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
> > >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
> > >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
> > >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery
so
> > >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
> > >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
> > >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
> > >> you.
> > >>
> > >> --
> > >> Travis
> > >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> > >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> > >> :wq!
> >
> > --
> > Travis
> > http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> > The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> > :wq!

travis

On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:

>Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
>up) fan belt.
>
>Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
>will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
>big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
>solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
>rubber case is cooked.
>
>A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
>alternator.

Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/

>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>travis wrote:
>>
>> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
>> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
>> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
>> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator,
>> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
>> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
>> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right
>> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
>> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
>> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
>> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so
>> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
>> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
>> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
>> you.
>>
>> --
>> Travis
>> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
>> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
>> :wq!


--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

travis

On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:

>Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
>up) fan belt.
>
>Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
>will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
>big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
>solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
>rubber case is cooked.
>
>A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
>alternator.

Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/

>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>travis wrote:
>>
>> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
>> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
>> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
>> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator,
>> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
>> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
>> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right
>> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
>> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
>> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
>> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so
>> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
>> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
>> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
>> you.
>>
>> --
>> Travis
>> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
>> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
>> :wq!


--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

travis

On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
<romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:

>Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
>up) fan belt.
>
>Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
>will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
>big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
>solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
>rubber case is cooked.
>
>A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
>alternator.

Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/

>
>Mike
>86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
>travis wrote:
>>
>> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
>> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
>> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
>> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator,
>> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
>> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
>> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right
>> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
>> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
>> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
>> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so
>> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
>> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
>> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
>> you.
>>
>> --
>> Travis
>> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
>> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
>> :wq!


--
Travis
http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
:wq!

Gerald G. McGeorge

Travis,

If this is a '76 304, and it hasn't been rewired to another spec, yes, it
should only have two wires, a large red wire running through the fusible
link to the "+" battery terminal, and the green wire running to the field
terminal. The alternator should ground through its housing to the mounting
bracket on the engine. (Just a thought, you might try running a jumper wire
from the alt housing to the negative terminal and see if it starts to
charge. If so there's a grounding problem at the alt.)

The regulator should have a black (ignition switched positive) wire at its
terminal, a yellow (battery positive) wire at a terminal "40", and your
green field wire at terminal 44. Check to see if there's 12v. at the black
wire with the key on, and if there's 12v at the yellow wire at all times.
Also, even though you repaired it, make sure there's continuity in the green
wire to the alt. field.

So, if all that passes muster and there's no voltage output from the alt
then it sounds like either the new alt is toast, or more likely, the
regulator is shot. Before I'd spend any more money I'd get the new alt
tested just to be sure it's ok.

Hope this helps!


"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ij7qqvgdk777c2ri0vu1tdfagk5n9fh8dj@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
>
> >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
> >up) fan belt.
> >
> >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
> >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
> >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
> >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
> >rubber case is cooked.
> >
> >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
> >alternator.
>
> Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/
>
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >travis wrote:
> >>
> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
> >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
> >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
> >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator,
> >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
> >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
> >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right
> >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
> >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
> >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
> >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so
> >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
> >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
> >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
> >> you.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Travis
> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> :wq!
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Gerald G. McGeorge

Travis,

If this is a '76 304, and it hasn't been rewired to another spec, yes, it
should only have two wires, a large red wire running through the fusible
link to the "+" battery terminal, and the green wire running to the field
terminal. The alternator should ground through its housing to the mounting
bracket on the engine. (Just a thought, you might try running a jumper wire
from the alt housing to the negative terminal and see if it starts to
charge. If so there's a grounding problem at the alt.)

The regulator should have a black (ignition switched positive) wire at its
terminal, a yellow (battery positive) wire at a terminal "40", and your
green field wire at terminal 44. Check to see if there's 12v. at the black
wire with the key on, and if there's 12v at the yellow wire at all times.
Also, even though you repaired it, make sure there's continuity in the green
wire to the alt. field.

So, if all that passes muster and there's no voltage output from the alt
then it sounds like either the new alt is toast, or more likely, the
regulator is shot. Before I'd spend any more money I'd get the new alt
tested just to be sure it's ok.

Hope this helps!


"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ij7qqvgdk777c2ri0vu1tdfagk5n9fh8dj@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
>
> >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
> >up) fan belt.
> >
> >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
> >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
> >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
> >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
> >rubber case is cooked.
> >
> >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
> >alternator.
>
> Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/
>
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >travis wrote:
> >>
> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
> >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
> >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
> >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator,
> >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
> >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
> >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right
> >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
> >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
> >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
> >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so
> >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
> >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
> >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
> >> you.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Travis
> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> :wq!
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!

Gerald G. McGeorge

Travis,

If this is a '76 304, and it hasn't been rewired to another spec, yes, it
should only have two wires, a large red wire running through the fusible
link to the "+" battery terminal, and the green wire running to the field
terminal. The alternator should ground through its housing to the mounting
bracket on the engine. (Just a thought, you might try running a jumper wire
from the alt housing to the negative terminal and see if it starts to
charge. If so there's a grounding problem at the alt.)

The regulator should have a black (ignition switched positive) wire at its
terminal, a yellow (battery positive) wire at a terminal "40", and your
green field wire at terminal 44. Check to see if there's 12v. at the black
wire with the key on, and if there's 12v at the yellow wire at all times.
Also, even though you repaired it, make sure there's continuity in the green
wire to the alt. field.

So, if all that passes muster and there's no voltage output from the alt
then it sounds like either the new alt is toast, or more likely, the
regulator is shot. Before I'd spend any more money I'd get the new alt
tested just to be sure it's ok.

Hope this helps!


"travis" <travist34removethis@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ij7qqvgdk777c2ri0vu1tdfagk5n9fh8dj@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 05 Nov 2003 17:40:28 -0500, Mike Romain
> <romainm@sympatico.ca> shared the following:
>
> >Sounds like you have a burned fuse link wire to me or a dead (polished
> >up) fan belt.
> >
> >Follow the main power wire from the alternator to the solenoid. There
> >will be a fuse link wire about 8" long with a rubber insulation and a
> >big rubber tube crimp connector on the harness side just at the
> >solenoid. Look for burns or pull on it to see if the wire inside the
> >rubber case is cooked.
> >
> >A multimeter can also check for continuity between the solenoid and
> >alternator.
>
> Zero ohms between solenoid and alternator. Line looks good. :-/
>
> >
> >Mike
> >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >
> >travis wrote:
> >>
> >> '76 CJ5 with 304. Motorcraft alternator. How many wires should be
> >> connected to it and where should each end of each wire go? I took my
> >> Jeep to AutoZone today and they tested the battery and alternator in
> >> the parking lot. Said the alternator was dead. Bought an alternator,
> >> went home, got ready to install it, noticed a green wire that was
> >> connected on the back of the alternator was broken in half. I
> >> reconnected it and started the Jeep but the voltmeter still read right
> >> at about 12V... I thought that maybe running with that wire broken
> >> for a few days might have screwed up my alternator so I put the new
> >> alternator on to try it out. Same results. Voltmeter reads right at
> >> 12V. In the process of messing with it I've discharged the battery so
> >> I need to let it sit overnight (good, I need a break from it) and
> >> maybe will have to jump start it when I'm ready to look at it again.
> >> Can someone please answer my wiring questions I posed above? Thank
> >> you.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Travis
> >> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> >> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> >> :wq!
>
>
> --
> Travis
> http://jeepadventures.dyndns.org/jeep.html
> The meek shall inherit the earth. After I'm finished with it.
> :wq!