Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth & (more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook & cranny" thing. -- Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de... > Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're > speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I > questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I found > they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the first > 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I understand > correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the engine > and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to > happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to > double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I > understand it. > > Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put > coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I > gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the coolant > out. > > I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method > without looking at the outline given to them. > > The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it. > Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40 > mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm > talking about. > > This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and > harmonic balancer as I understand it. > > Bill > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate throttle > > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying > engine > > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words. Avoid > > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels > > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where > they > > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally > would. > > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes > or > > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late > for > > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and beat > > the hell out of it. > > > > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small > amount > > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are > > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will seat > > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a > finer > > stone than cast rings. > > > > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if > > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about > it > > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed > > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the > > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration. > > > > Chris > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > Chris and all, > > > > > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the > > engine > > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's truly > > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'? > > > > > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if > it's > > > normal and later these things will go away. > > > > > > > > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect > > loosing > > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so there > > will > > > be some burning of oil. > > > > > > Comments? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced > the > > > > > distributor. > > > > > > > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > > > > > > > > > What do you think about this? > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;) > > > > > > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it out > > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to > see > > > it > > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the > > > injectors > > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly. > > > > > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth & (more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook & cranny" thing. -- Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de... > Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're > speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I > questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I found > they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the first > 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I understand > correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the engine > and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to > happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to > double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I > understand it. > > Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put > coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I > gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the coolant > out. > > I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method > without looking at the outline given to them. > > The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it. > Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40 > mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm > talking about. > > This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and > harmonic balancer as I understand it. > > Bill > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate throttle > > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying > engine > > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words. Avoid > > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels > > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where > they > > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally > would. > > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes > or > > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late > for > > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and beat > > the hell out of it. > > > > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small > amount > > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are > > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will seat > > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a > finer > > stone than cast rings. > > > > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if > > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about > it > > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed > > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the > > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration. > > > > Chris > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > Chris and all, > > > > > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the > > engine > > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's truly > > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'? > > > > > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if > it's > > > normal and later these things will go away. > > > > > > > > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect > > loosing > > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so there > > will > > > be some burning of oil. > > > > > > Comments? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced > the > > > > > distributor. > > > > > > > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > > > > > > > > > What do you think about this? > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;) > > > > > > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it out > > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to > see > > > it > > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the > > > injectors > > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly. > > > > > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
I always put water in first in case of leaks. After I run it for a very
short while & no leaks, I put in the antifreeze - friendlier to the earth & (more important) friendlier to my wallet. don't know about the "nook & cranny" thing. -- Carlo F. Serusa, Jr. RPh carlo.jr at comcast DOTnet '98 Sahara TJ - '89 YJ - '79 Scout II O|||||||O '92 Explorer '65 Mustang "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gr3k9F5onknU1@uni-berlin.de... > Well, the R&R place 'should' have done the brake in procedure you're > speaking about. I gave them an outline from the machine shop and when I > questioned them about it they said they did it. However, one point I found > they did not do was to NOT put coolant into the radiator water for the first > 50 miles. I asked the machine shop about this and he said (if I understand > correctly) that he wanted water to go to every nook and cranny in the engine > and that with coolant in the water it would be less likely for that to > happen. After the first 50 miles go ahead and put coolant. I'm going to > double check with him on the reasons when I see him again but that's how I > understand it. > > Anyway, when I reviewed the R&R work before they were done I saw they put > coolant in. I again showed them the outline the machinist gave me which I > gave a copy from the git-go and they replied, strange, and took the coolant > out. > > I think they had broken in many engines and just followed their method > without looking at the outline given to them. > > The 'vibration' is felt only at idle. When I drive it I don't feel it. > Plus, I still have drive shaft vibration from the lift kit so at about 40 > mph I get vibration from the drive shaft which is different from what I'm > talking about. > > This engine was balanced with both the flywheel and clutch plate and > harmonic balancer as I understand it. > > Bill > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > news:dZVpc.4745$oQ6.4009@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > The best way to break in an engine is to drive it under moderate throttle > > conditions for about the first 500 miles or so. Do this with varying > engine > > speeds. Don't take a 500 mile highway trip at 65mph in other words. Avoid > > towing and do not overheat the engine. Watch the coolant and oil levels > > closely to avoid running either one low, and to check for fluids where > they > > don't belong. After that, change the oil and drive it as you normally > would. > > Also, if the camshaft is new, you normally run the engine for 20 minutes > or > > so with the engine varying from 1500 to 3000 RPM under no load. Too late > for > > you to do this now, but you should be ok there. You didn't go out and beat > > the hell out of it. > > > > Moly rings are slightly porous on the surface and you may see a small > amount > > of oil consumption, but it shouldn't be excessive once the rings are > > properly seated. If the honing was done properly, the moly rings will seat > > quicker than the cast rings. Cylinders for moly rings are honed with a > finer > > stone than cast rings. > > > > As far as the vibration, check it out as you are driving to see if if > > disappears in a certain RPM range, or gets worse. I wouldn't worry about > it > > until the engine is properly timed and the fuel injection is confirmed > > working properly. One bad injector, or anything else that causes the > > cylinder to slightly misfire can be felt as a vibration. > > > > Chris > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > news:2gqmlfF5nbsmU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > Chris and all, > > > > > > I've never broken in an engine before. What can I expect? Will the > > engine > > > feel different at different mileage? What mileage can I say it's truly > > > broken in and the parts are 'harmonized'? > > > > > > Right now there's a feeling of vibration at idle and I'm wondering if > it's > > > normal and later these things will go away. > > > > > > > > > BTW, the engine rebuilder told me he used molly rings and to expect > > loosing > > > oil between every oil change as the molly rings are porous and so there > > will > > > be some burning of oil. > > > > > > Comments? > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message > > > news:FeVpc.4741$oQ6.3464@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > > > > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > > > > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced > the > > > > > distributor. > > > > > > > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > > > > > > > > > What do you think about this? > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > Bill > > > > > > > > > > > > > They look pretty damn good Bill. Except you count backwards! ;) > > > > > > > > Seriously, the plugs look fine, but run it a bit more and check it out > > > > again. If Mike is right about you having a bad injector, I'd hate to > see > > > it > > > > mess up your new engine. It still might be a good idea to have the > > > injectors > > > > flow and impedance tested to make sure they are performing properly. > > > > > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > distributor. > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > What do you think about this? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > distributor. > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > What do you think about this? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > distributor. > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > What do you think about this? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that
after 50,000 miles. I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > distributor. > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > What do you think about this? > > Thanks, > > Bill > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
Never mind.
My plugs came out with much less brown on the tips, but I suppose that the brown is not an indicator of trouble. They are all the same color, but the ones to the back of the motor look a little darker to me. IN A RELATED DEVELOPMENT I took the plugs out of CRWLR, and the #3 plug is black and loading up. You guys might remember that I wsas asking about a high speed miss that has developed. The motor runs well at low speeds, normal city and rural road driving, but misses after several minutes on the interstate. I was wondering about what a floating valve might feel like. I have never had a valve float, but if one did float, I think it should feel alot like what I am getting. The black plug tends to support that I have something in the motor getting ready to take a bye. . "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:10aia0us7e49bb7@corp.supernews.com... > That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that > after 50,000 miles. > > I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > > distributor. > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > > > What do you think about this? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
Never mind.
My plugs came out with much less brown on the tips, but I suppose that the brown is not an indicator of trouble. They are all the same color, but the ones to the back of the motor look a little darker to me. IN A RELATED DEVELOPMENT I took the plugs out of CRWLR, and the #3 plug is black and loading up. You guys might remember that I wsas asking about a high speed miss that has developed. The motor runs well at low speeds, normal city and rural road driving, but misses after several minutes on the interstate. I was wondering about what a floating valve might feel like. I have never had a valve float, but if one did float, I think it should feel alot like what I am getting. The black plug tends to support that I have something in the motor getting ready to take a bye. . "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:10aia0us7e49bb7@corp.supernews.com... > That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that > after 50,000 miles. > > I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > > distributor. > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > > > What do you think about this? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
Re: Mike, here's the plugs after about a 10 to 15 mile run after new distributor and fresh rebuild
Never mind.
My plugs came out with much less brown on the tips, but I suppose that the brown is not an indicator of trouble. They are all the same color, but the ones to the back of the motor look a little darker to me. IN A RELATED DEVELOPMENT I took the plugs out of CRWLR, and the #3 plug is black and loading up. You guys might remember that I wsas asking about a high speed miss that has developed. The motor runs well at low speeds, normal city and rural road driving, but misses after several minutes on the interstate. I was wondering about what a floating valve might feel like. I have never had a valve float, but if one did float, I think it should feel alot like what I am getting. The black plug tends to support that I have something in the motor getting ready to take a bye. . "CRWLR" <beerman@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:10aia0us7e49bb7@corp.supernews.com... > That's after only 15 miles?! The plugs out of my BMW were cleaner than that > after 50,000 miles. > > I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but me thinks you have issues. > > > > > "William Oliveri" <wuji@bigvalley.net> wrote in message > news:2gqgl9F53o6mU1@uni-berlin.de... > > Mike, here's a look at the plugs after rebuild and I just replaced the > > distributor. > > > > http://members.bigvalley.net/wuji/jeep/plugs.jpg > > > > What do you think about this? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > > > |
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