Metering rod adjustment??
02-23-2004, 09:54 AM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
throttle butterfly is closed tight.
Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
and pump.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA. Jeep
> is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger then
> to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> Then turn in a 1 full turn.
>
> The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet orifice.
> Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better sence
> due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
throttle butterfly is closed tight.
Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
and pump.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA. Jeep
> is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger then
> to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> Then turn in a 1 full turn.
>
> The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet orifice.
> Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better sence
> due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
02-23-2004, 09:54 AM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
throttle butterfly is closed tight.
Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
and pump.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA. Jeep
> is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger then
> to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> Then turn in a 1 full turn.
>
> The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet orifice.
> Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better sence
> due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
throttle butterfly is closed tight.
Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
and pump.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA. Jeep
> is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger then
> to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> Then turn in a 1 full turn.
>
> The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet orifice.
> Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better sence
> due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
02-23-2004, 09:54 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
throttle butterfly is closed tight.
Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
and pump.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA. Jeep
> is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger then
> to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> Then turn in a 1 full turn.
>
> The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet orifice.
> Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better sence
> due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
throttle butterfly is closed tight.
Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
and pump.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Paul Brogren wrote:
>
> Evening All,
> I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA. Jeep
> is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger then
> to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> Then turn in a 1 full turn.
>
> The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet orifice.
> Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better sence
> due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
>
> --
> Thanks Always !!!
> Paul '75 CJ5 258
> Vail, CO.
02-23-2004, 12:27 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
Well this has been my situation. Two years ago I rebuild this carb. And
yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw).
Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a
difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my
float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to
work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish
acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the
highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly,
during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old
rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the
manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always
wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403A1418.E4281B6C@sympatico.ca...
> I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
> right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
>
> First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
> throttle butterfly is closed tight.
>
> Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
>
> Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
> then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
>
> As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
> figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
> highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
> doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
> and pump.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Evening All,
> > I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA.
Jeep
> > is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> > rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger
then
> > to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> > Then turn in a 1 full turn.
> >
> > The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> > diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet
orifice.
> > Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better
sence
> > due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> > completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw).
Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a
difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my
float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to
work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish
acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the
highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly,
during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old
rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the
manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always
wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403A1418.E4281B6C@sympatico.ca...
> I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
> right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
>
> First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
> throttle butterfly is closed tight.
>
> Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
>
> Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
> then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
>
> As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
> figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
> highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
> doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
> and pump.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Evening All,
> > I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA.
Jeep
> > is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> > rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger
then
> > to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> > Then turn in a 1 full turn.
> >
> > The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> > diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet
orifice.
> > Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better
sence
> > due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> > completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
02-23-2004, 12:27 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
Well this has been my situation. Two years ago I rebuild this carb. And
yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw).
Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a
difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my
float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to
work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish
acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the
highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly,
during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old
rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the
manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always
wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403A1418.E4281B6C@sympatico.ca...
> I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
> right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
>
> First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
> throttle butterfly is closed tight.
>
> Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
>
> Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
> then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
>
> As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
> figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
> highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
> doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
> and pump.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Evening All,
> > I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA.
Jeep
> > is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> > rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger
then
> > to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> > Then turn in a 1 full turn.
> >
> > The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> > diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet
orifice.
> > Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better
sence
> > due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> > completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw).
Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a
difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my
float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to
work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish
acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the
highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly,
during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old
rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the
manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always
wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403A1418.E4281B6C@sympatico.ca...
> I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
> right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
>
> First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
> throttle butterfly is closed tight.
>
> Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
>
> Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
> then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
>
> As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
> figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
> highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
> doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
> and pump.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Evening All,
> > I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA.
Jeep
> > is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> > rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger
then
> > to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> > Then turn in a 1 full turn.
> >
> > The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> > diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet
orifice.
> > Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better
sence
> > due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> > completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
02-23-2004, 12:27 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
Well this has been my situation. Two years ago I rebuild this carb. And
yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw).
Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a
difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my
float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to
work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish
acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the
highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly,
during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old
rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the
manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always
wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403A1418.E4281B6C@sympatico.ca...
> I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
> right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
>
> First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
> throttle butterfly is closed tight.
>
> Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
>
> Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
> then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
>
> As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
> figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
> highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
> doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
> and pump.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Evening All,
> > I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA.
Jeep
> > is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> > rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger
then
> > to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> > Then turn in a 1 full turn.
> >
> > The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> > diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet
orifice.
> > Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better
sence
> > due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> > completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
yes, not knowing a lot of Carb. detail I messed with (rod adj. screw).
Since then it's run well at idle, and driving but I have always felt a
difference in acceleration ever since this first rebuild. Currently, my
float/needle and seat needed adjustment/replacement, so I want to try to
work the bug out of this metering rod adjustment and solve the sluggish
acceleration problem. The engine won't crap out or stall etc. on the
highway, but I think it should have more pickup than what it has. Lastly,
during the time of this first carb. rebuild I also needed to replace the old
rotted header exhaust with the stock manifold. It could just be the
manifold robbing the motor of power that I used to feel, but I've always
wondered if it was that or I incorrect carb. adjustment.
--
Thanks Always !!!
Paul '75 CJ5 258
Vail, CO.
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:403A1418.E4281B6C@sympatico.ca...
> I have only done the Carter BBD's using my book but the directions were
> right on so I think the YF ones should be right.
>
> First you have to back the idle speed screw all the way out so the
> throttle butterfly is closed tight.
>
> Push down on pump diaphragm until it bottoms and hold it down.
>
> Turn adjusting screw until the metering rod just bottoms in the casting,
> then turn the screw 1 turn clockwise.
>
> As a side note, that is one of the adjustments I try to never do. I
> figure if the thing was running decent at one point in it's life on the
> highway, then fooling with that screw is just asking for trouble. It
> doesn't need to be turned to clean the parts up and refresh the gaskets
> and pump.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Paul Brogren wrote:
> >
> > Evening All,
> > I'm doing a rebuild on my Carter 1 bbl carb. I got the kit from NAPA.
Jeep
> > is a '75 CJ5 258. I am getting conflicting adjustments for the metering
> > rod. The NAPA kit instructions say to bottom out the diaphram plunger
then
> > to turn the adjusting screw until it comes in contact with the linkage.
> > Then turn in a 1 full turn.
> >
> > The conflict is with my Chiltons book. The Chiltons says to push the
> > diaphram down until the Metering rod comes in contact) with the jet
orifice.
> > Then to turn in 1 turn. The chiltons instructions seem to make better
sence
> > due to the fact that if it was the other way my adjusting screw would be
> > completely turned in with no adjustment left. Please send your views.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks Always !!!
> > Paul '75 CJ5 258
> > Vail, CO.
02-23-2004, 11:18 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
I adjusted the Napa kit for my '73 Carter YF on a 258 to exactly the same point
you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
metering rod is adjusted correctly?
Lee
Colorado Springs
original '73 CJ5
you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
metering rod is adjusted correctly?
Lee
Colorado Springs
original '73 CJ5
02-23-2004, 11:18 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
I adjusted the Napa kit for my '73 Carter YF on a 258 to exactly the same point
you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
metering rod is adjusted correctly?
Lee
Colorado Springs
original '73 CJ5
you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
metering rod is adjusted correctly?
Lee
Colorado Springs
original '73 CJ5
02-23-2004, 11:18 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
I adjusted the Napa kit for my '73 Carter YF on a 258 to exactly the same point
you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
metering rod is adjusted correctly?
Lee
Colorado Springs
original '73 CJ5
you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
metering rod is adjusted correctly?
Lee
Colorado Springs
original '73 CJ5
02-24-2004, 12:15 AM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Metering rod adjustment??
If the carburetor was originally sold for your altitude it would
have been leaner, with thicker metering rod. It's adjustment effects
both power and mileage. I really don't know if you may richen the
mixture and solve pre detonation at altitude. If it was spark knock then
of course that would be solved by retarding the timing.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
LeeB103926 wrote:
>
> I adjusted the Napa kit for my '73 Carter YF on a 258 to exactly the same point
> you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
> runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
> runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
>
> Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
> metering rod is adjusted correctly?
>
> Lee
> Colorado Springs
> original '73 CJ5
have been leaner, with thicker metering rod. It's adjustment effects
both power and mileage. I really don't know if you may richen the
mixture and solve pre detonation at altitude. If it was spark knock then
of course that would be solved by retarding the timing.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
LeeB103926 wrote:
>
> I adjusted the Napa kit for my '73 Carter YF on a 258 to exactly the same point
> you are describing -- very near the inner end of the possible adjustment. It
> runs well to about 12,000ft. Driven carefully (to avoid acc pump input) it
> runs to 14,000ft with a little smoke from being too rich.
>
> Question for others: how do you tell by power or mileage or ping/knock if the
> metering rod is adjusted correctly?
>
> Lee
> Colorado Springs
> original '73 CJ5
