manual Choke install
01-19-2004, 09:42 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
manual Choke install
When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
the morning, but would like to get this working.
Thanks
--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
the morning, but would like to get this working.
Thanks
--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 10:27 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
is open and it goes off.
To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
pull on the choke.
If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
manual throttle as well as a choke.
When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
the alternator is really putting out.
To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
aGraham wrote:
>
> When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> the morning, but would like to get this working.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
is open and it goes off.
To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
pull on the choke.
If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
manual throttle as well as a choke.
When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
the alternator is really putting out.
To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
aGraham wrote:
>
> When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> the morning, but would like to get this working.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 10:27 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
is open and it goes off.
To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
pull on the choke.
If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
manual throttle as well as a choke.
When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
the alternator is really putting out.
To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
aGraham wrote:
>
> When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> the morning, but would like to get this working.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
is open and it goes off.
To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
pull on the choke.
If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
manual throttle as well as a choke.
When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
the alternator is really putting out.
To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
aGraham wrote:
>
> When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> the morning, but would like to get this working.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 10:27 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
is open and it goes off.
To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
pull on the choke.
If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
manual throttle as well as a choke.
When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
the alternator is really putting out.
To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
aGraham wrote:
>
> When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> the morning, but would like to get this working.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
is open and it goes off.
To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
pull on the choke.
If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
manual throttle as well as a choke.
When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
the alternator is really putting out.
To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
aGraham wrote:
>
> When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> the morning, but would like to get this working.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> o_o_o_o
> /| ,[_____],
> |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 10:54 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
Ok, that all makes sense, maybe the fast idle cam is gunked up as it
does not move freely, I will look at that more.
Thanks Mike I knew you would answer my question....
In article <400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 10:54 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
Ok, that all makes sense, maybe the fast idle cam is gunked up as it
does not move freely, I will look at that more.
Thanks Mike I knew you would answer my question....
In article <400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 10:54 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
Ok, that all makes sense, maybe the fast idle cam is gunked up as it
does not move freely, I will look at that more.
Thanks Mike I knew you would answer my question....
In article <400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca>,
Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
--
o_o_o_o
/| ,[_____],
|ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 12:39 PM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
Hiya Mike ... question about the alternator "really putting out". My
understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator is that
rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
myself).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator is that
rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
myself).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 12:39 PM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
Hiya Mike ... question about the alternator "really putting out". My
understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator is that
rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
myself).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator is that
rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
myself).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
01-19-2004, 12:39 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: manual Choke install
Hiya Mike ... question about the alternator "really putting out". My
understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator is that
rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
myself).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)
understanding, the benefit of an alternator over the old generator is that
rpm doesn't matter so much with an alternator (and I'll go look into
myself).
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:400BF764.1B423F7D@sympatico.ca...
> The kit for a manual choke comes with a replacement cover for the
> electric one that the cable attaches to so it kind of looks like it is
> just hooked to the electric. The guts are gone.
>
> The fast idle cam should be set with a hot engine and the screw on the
> second from top step. Hot it should rev at 1750 rpm.
>
> The cam for the fast idle has a lever on it up to the choke plate so the
> cam moves when the choke is pulled closed. It is a gravity pull off
> when the choke opens. Gravity just pulls it down steps until the choke
> is open and it goes off.
>
> To turn on the fast idle, the gas pedal needs to be to the floor as you
> pull on the choke.
>
> If the plastic cam isn't flopping around free, then you need to clean it
> out with carb cleaner or WD40. It works best dry with no lube on it.
> Lube there attracts dirt which seizes up the cam so it won't flop free.
>
> I have mine set so the 3rd step down is 1500 rpm and I use mine as a
> manual throttle as well as a choke.
>
> When I am running my winch, I put my gas pedal at 1600 rpm, then pull
> the choke on, let off the gas pedal and push the choke off quickly.
> This leaves the fast idle cam on and my engine running at 1500 rpm so
> the alternator is really putting out.
>
> To make it go back to straight idle, I just blip the gas pedal and the
> fast idle cam falls out of the way. The gas pedal holds it until moved.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> aGraham wrote:
> >
> > When I bought my '79 CJ 7 a while ago the P.O. had installed a manual
> > choke. Well it looks like he just attached a cable to the electric
> > choke. Is this the correct way to do it? The problem I have is that IF
> > i ever get the choke to set the high idle, it never will go back to low
> > idle. I don't see anything that would cause the high idle to turn off,
> > even with a electric choke(unless there is parts missing). I currently
> > use a stick to hold my gas peddle down when I let the jeep warm up in
> > the morning, but would like to get this working.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > o_o_o_o
> > /| ,[_____],
> > |ŻŻŻL --O|||||||O-
> > ()_)Ż()_) ŻŻŻŻŻ )_)