I feel with you to Mike,
As you know I was quite happy when I bought my Cherokee this winter.
I used this group earlier and asked for some advice regarding uneven breaks
(wheels lock with even slight breaking, especially when it is wet)
And the power window cables who was totally rotten, I think I got 10-15
litres of water out of the car some weeks ago, I started to believe that I
had a boat instead.
Still not had time to look at the breaks, cause I have been repairing all
the rust so far, thank God they used thick material in the carpet, it seems
to be what kept my car together.
Anyway, still happy Love my Jeep


--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>
> The brakes failed. Low pedal and red dash light. All new (2 years or
> so) pads, shoes and master cylinder with a recently failed emergency
> brake.
>
> So my son and I start taking wheels off and sure enough one front
> caliper isn't moving. The anchor plate that the pads slide on is so
> rotten, the pad had eaten right into it jamming and stopping the caliper
> from moving.
>
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.
>
> Next I go for the e-brake and pull off the rear drums. They were on
> good, but my 10 lb BFH convinced those drums to move. :-) Either they
> were moving or shattering...
>
> I look and the brake shoes are still almost new, but... Rust had eaten
> the anchor pin that holds the shoe to the backing plate and it was gone
> so the e-brake had nothing to hold steady. Then I move the handle to
> see if the cables are still ok, and the freaking cable case has come
> right through the backing plate! It isn't 'supposed' to fit through
> there, grrr....
>
> So I went and got a small heavy U-bolt so I can pull the case back
> through the plate and clamp it so it stays on the outside I hope.
>
> My wife was complaining about the floor boards, so I lift the carpet to
> see how bad, and well, there is no problem with the floor boards, it
> just don't 'got' any! Fred Flinstone machine.... Sheet metal and
> 'glass time.
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......
>
> There, that felt better, now to go put it back together.
> ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

I feel with you to Mike,
As you know I was quite happy when I bought my Cherokee this winter.
I used this group earlier and asked for some advice regarding uneven breaks
(wheels lock with even slight breaking, especially when it is wet)
And the power window cables who was totally rotten, I think I got 10-15
litres of water out of the car some weeks ago, I started to believe that I
had a boat instead.
Still not had time to look at the breaks, cause I have been repairing all
the rust so far, thank God they used thick material in the carpet, it seems
to be what kept my car together.
Anyway, still happy Love my Jeep


--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>
> The brakes failed. Low pedal and red dash light. All new (2 years or
> so) pads, shoes and master cylinder with a recently failed emergency
> brake.
>
> So my son and I start taking wheels off and sure enough one front
> caliper isn't moving. The anchor plate that the pads slide on is so
> rotten, the pad had eaten right into it jamming and stopping the caliper
> from moving.
>
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.
>
> Next I go for the e-brake and pull off the rear drums. They were on
> good, but my 10 lb BFH convinced those drums to move. :-) Either they
> were moving or shattering...
>
> I look and the brake shoes are still almost new, but... Rust had eaten
> the anchor pin that holds the shoe to the backing plate and it was gone
> so the e-brake had nothing to hold steady. Then I move the handle to
> see if the cables are still ok, and the freaking cable case has come
> right through the backing plate! It isn't 'supposed' to fit through
> there, grrr....
>
> So I went and got a small heavy U-bolt so I can pull the case back
> through the plate and clamp it so it stays on the outside I hope.
>
> My wife was complaining about the floor boards, so I lift the carpet to
> see how bad, and well, there is no problem with the floor boards, it
> just don't 'got' any! Fred Flinstone machine.... Sheet metal and
> 'glass time.
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......
>
> There, that felt better, now to go put it back together.
> ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

I feel with you to Mike,
As you know I was quite happy when I bought my Cherokee this winter.
I used this group earlier and asked for some advice regarding uneven breaks
(wheels lock with even slight breaking, especially when it is wet)
And the power window cables who was totally rotten, I think I got 10-15
litres of water out of the car some weeks ago, I started to believe that I
had a boat instead.
Still not had time to look at the breaks, cause I have been repairing all
the rust so far, thank God they used thick material in the carpet, it seems
to be what kept my car together.
Anyway, still happy Love my Jeep


--
Best Regards
Geir R.Pettersson
grp.arctic@heating.no
http://www.arctic-heating.com
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> skrev i melding
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>
> The brakes failed. Low pedal and red dash light. All new (2 years or
> so) pads, shoes and master cylinder with a recently failed emergency
> brake.
>
> So my son and I start taking wheels off and sure enough one front
> caliper isn't moving. The anchor plate that the pads slide on is so
> rotten, the pad had eaten right into it jamming and stopping the caliper
> from moving.
>
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.
>
> Next I go for the e-brake and pull off the rear drums. They were on
> good, but my 10 lb BFH convinced those drums to move. :-) Either they
> were moving or shattering...
>
> I look and the brake shoes are still almost new, but... Rust had eaten
> the anchor pin that holds the shoe to the backing plate and it was gone
> so the e-brake had nothing to hold steady. Then I move the handle to
> see if the cables are still ok, and the freaking cable case has come
> right through the backing plate! It isn't 'supposed' to fit through
> there, grrr....
>
> So I went and got a small heavy U-bolt so I can pull the case back
> through the plate and clamp it so it stays on the outside I hope.
>
> My wife was complaining about the floor boards, so I lift the carpet to
> see how bad, and well, there is no problem with the floor boards, it
> just don't 'got' any! Fred Flinstone machine.... Sheet metal and
> 'glass time.
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......
>
> There, that felt better, now to go put it back together.
> ;-)
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Hi Mike,

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>snip
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.

Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
>
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......

Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!


Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.


Brian

 

Hi Mike,

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>snip
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.

Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
>
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......

Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!


Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.


Brian

 

Hi Mike,

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>snip
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.

Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
>
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......

Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!


Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.


Brian

 

Hi Mike,

"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
>snip
> Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.

Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
>
>
> Man oh man do I hate rust.......

Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!


Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.


Brian

 

Bulletsnbrains wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> > Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
> >snip
> > Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> > torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> > has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> > the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> > Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> > it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> > pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.
>
> Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
> Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
> remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
> hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
> >
> >
> > Man oh man do I hate rust.......
>
> Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!
>
> Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
> to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
> inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.
>

I start soaking it around the center and into each lug hole with a good
penetrating oil. After it has soaked for a while, then it needs to be
rung like a bell with a BFH. I used a 10 lb BFH on the Cherokee's rotor
and on the back drum on this job.

I gave them both a good ring, then soaked them for a few more hours,
then one last whack and it went thunk instead of dinggg. The thunk
means it let loose...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Bulletsnbrains wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> > Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
> >snip
> > Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> > torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> > has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> > the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> > Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> > it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> > pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.
>
> Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
> Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
> remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
> hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
> >
> >
> > Man oh man do I hate rust.......
>
> Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!
>
> Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
> to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
> inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.
>

I start soaking it around the center and into each lug hole with a good
penetrating oil. After it has soaked for a while, then it needs to be
rung like a bell with a BFH. I used a 10 lb BFH on the Cherokee's rotor
and on the back drum on this job.

I gave them both a good ring, then soaked them for a few more hours,
then one last whack and it went thunk instead of dinggg. The thunk
means it let loose...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

 

Bulletsnbrains wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:429DF542.2D94D619@sympatico.ca...
> > Once again the rust belt bites my poor Cherokee....
> >snip
> > Ok, so I go to take it off. Ya right, the bolts 'used' to be reverse
> > torx when they were new, they now are ragged edged rounded stubs. Rust
> > has eaten the heads off. Vise grips won't even grab them! So I soaked
> > the crap out of them overnight with penetrating oil and tried again.
> > Even went and bought new vise grips with sharper teeth. No go. Screw
> > it, just before getting out the grinder and drill I tried a plumbers
> > pipe wrench. Bingo! Got the SOB's.
>
> Working on my '82 CJ brakes and found that the caliper bolts won't budge.
> Ended up heating the bracket bolts with propane torch and using an impact to
> remove the whole assy, bracket and caliper. Once I had it off, I wire fed
> hex head bolts to the caliper pins and used a socket wrench and viola!
> >
> >
> > Man oh man do I hate rust.......
>
> Salt City = Madison, Wisconsin... I hear ya!
>
> Now I have a question.... How do you seperate the hub and the rotor? I want
> to replace the rotors of course. I have pulled the whole assembly off while
> inspecting the rust colored grease coated bearings.
>

I start soaking it around the center and into each lug hole with a good
penetrating oil. After it has soaked for a while, then it needs to be
rung like a bell with a BFH. I used a 10 lb BFH on the Cherokee's rotor
and on the back drum on this job.

I gave them both a good ring, then soaked them for a few more hours,
then one last whack and it went thunk instead of dinggg. The thunk
means it let loose...

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's