Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
I got lucky and rust did in another Jeep at 40K. It literally broke in
half I was told so it got parted out. I paid $400.00 for the long
block. This Jeep was so rusty, the oil pan on the engine was a spider
web pin cushion. I had to use my pan. LOL!
Last time I checked, Chrysler Canada was offering 258 short blocks for
$1200.00, $1500.00 with the head.
I have a tree in my driveway that my come-a-long hooks up to to swap
engines or I can rent an engine hoist for a half day and fifty bucks.
The engines are easy to swap out.
That $75.00 rubber valve cover gasket is the biggest rip off I have ever
seen! I got a new valve cover and bought that stupid thing thinking it
should be better. I was pouring oil out in 2 weeks.
My valve cover only has the two center rocker nuts holding it on, the
head isn't tapped for perimeter bolts and has been leak free for almost
4 years. I made it super clean on the mating surfaces first with an
acetone wipe down or maybe I used BBQ lighter fluid last time, don't
remember, but it has to be spotless. Even one fingerprint will wreck
the seal. I then gave the head surface a skim of permatex 'ultra' black
RTV, added the cork gasket, another skim of RTV on top of the cork and
added my plastic cover and torqued the two nuts to 15 inch pounds I
think it was.
Then comes the most important part! I let it sit without even breathing
on it for 24 hours like the directions say to let it properly 'cure'.
No leaks.
The PCV 'blowby' usually can be fixed easy. It is normally a failure in
the emissions crap.
I first trace the PCV line to the back of the carb. At the back part of
valve cover there is a real rubber elbow that goes jelly from oil and
collapses. If soft, replace it. Then behind the carb is a solenoid
thing. It was a defective part and should be replaced with a T
fitting. Then off this T a line goes to the charcoal canister. At idle
pinch this line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the
canister purge valve is shot or the plumbing is wrong. The canister
should only purge when at speed and hot via a ported vacuum signal and
the CTO valve.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Mike, were did you get and how much for the engine, if I don't do
> something pretty quick I will have to hook my PCV lines up to the oil filler
> cap to keep oil recirculating :) New valve cover gasket only lasted about
> 1000 Km, gone again, at $75.00 Can. for it I don't want to put another on
> this engine, but like you I like and have decided to go with the 258, torque
> is unbelevable. Got a price from Canada engines, $1425.00 for rebuilt,
> $800.00 install, $130.00 misc. parts, be 3 grand by the time taxes were on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41A8BDC2.2621BE27@sympatico.ca...
> > It took me about a year and a half in my driveway to do mine. I
> > stripped the frame and used rust converter first, then put rubber coat
> > on it.
> >
> > Unfortunately it was too little too late, the damage was done and my off
> > roading and swamp twisting has caused it to snap in 3 places in the last
> > year, now the end is toast. I will patch it up, but really need a new
> > frame. I have gotten 4 years out of it, could use another one or two
> > hopefully.
> >
> > I also debated engines and decided I liked the power and mileage the 258
> > gave me, so I stayed with it. Got a factory one with 40K on it and have
> > mine sitting around waiting for a refresh job.
> >
> > I am manually tuned up and mine just flies with that engine. I can
> > climb sand pit walls at 400 rpm without stalling and 4th will bury the
> > speedo.
> >
> > 350's suck gas. I get 11L/100km.
> >
> > The 'glass body is 'really' light eh. There is a gent here in Ontario
> > that makes sweet ones for a good price. All the metal parts, my front
> > Laredo chrome grill, the windshield, hard doors, top fit on like a
> > glove.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> >>
> >> When you decide to do a frame job, you should drive down here and do mine
> >> at
> >> the same time. ;p Mine's no where near that bad but when I was taking my
> >> rear seat out I took a good look at the frame rails and all the common
> >> "spots" for mud entrapment. I'm pretty sure within 5 years I'll be doing
> >> a
> >> tear-down. I'm actually thinking of saving up for the time when my engine
> >> decides to die. I might just do a complete rebuild with the following:
> >> 350 V8 w/ new transmission
> >> Fuel Injection
> >> Locking diffs front and rear
> >> Fiberglass tub
> >> Reinforced and "cleaned" frame with PROPER front and rear bumpers and tow
> >> hook placement.
> >>
> >> I'll probably be looking at about a $6000-7000 CDN hit for that job and
> >> about an entire year of working on it but it'll be a pretty nice beast
> >> when
> >> it's done. Then I'll go buy one of those "Jeeps are built, not bought"
> >> stickers ;p
> >>
> >> --
> >> griffin
> >> '85 Jeep CJ-7
> >> '97 Toyota Corolla SD
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:41A7C2B7.3BB07335@sympatico.ca...
> >> > Mud and dirt is the big issue I think Bill.
> >> >
> >> > When I tore down the Jeep for the 'glass body job, it took 2 days to
> >> > hose all the mud out of the frame. That stuff holds water and worse
> >> > salty water in the winter.
> >> >
> >> > I wonder if I should replace the frame tail pieces with C channel
> >> > instead of the square tubing I was thinking of? Thinking about it,
> >> > naw,
> >> > there isn't enough left to do a decent C channel job I don't think.
> >> >
> >> > Is that frame all C channel with big assed rivets in the corners? If
> >> > so
> >> > can it twist up like mine without tearing off cross members? My front
> >> > one broke too, that big wide one. All that is holding the front rails
> >> > is the warn winch mount.
> >> >
> >> > Man do I ever need a new frame..... :-(
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> >
> >> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Real Jeeps use open channel frames like the eighteen wheelers,
> >> > > that
> >> > > never catch water and rust out:
> >> > > http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
> >> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> > > mailto:--------------------
> >> > >
> >> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > So here I am driving down the main drag in Toronto and hear/feel a
> >> > > > strange thump then scraping. Crap I think, there goes the muffler
> >> > > > or
> >> > > > tailpipe or something. Not loud, hmmm... I pull over and walk
> >> > > > back
> >> > > > looking at the guy behind me laughing and there is my frame
> >> crossmember
> >> > > > and stainless bumperette loops laying on the ground..... There was
> >> > > > a
> >> > > > left over piece if string I used to tie something once holding it
> >> > > > on.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Ouch!
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I knew it was getting ratty when my gas tank skid plate fell off a
> >> while
> >> > > > back but was hoping to get the winter out of it.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > My kid just came in laughing and asked what was holding the back
> >> springs
> >> > > > on. I can't figure that out either, they are sorta just hanging
> >> > > > there
> >> > > > on a cob web of rust....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I have the gas tank hung off the body as it is via a couple big eye
> >> > > > hooks through the floor and cargo straps.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Oh well, I guess it is time to get some square tubing and cover the
> >> > > > frame tails and anchor the spring shackles and a new C channel
> >> > > > crossmember to them. Then to get a gas tank skid plate.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Anyone know if a YJ 20 gallon skid plate will fit a cj 20 gallon
> >> > > > tank?
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Meanwhile some bailing wire keeps it 'looking' like it belongs
> >> > > > there.....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Mike
> >> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
half I was told so it got parted out. I paid $400.00 for the long
block. This Jeep was so rusty, the oil pan on the engine was a spider
web pin cushion. I had to use my pan. LOL!
Last time I checked, Chrysler Canada was offering 258 short blocks for
$1200.00, $1500.00 with the head.
I have a tree in my driveway that my come-a-long hooks up to to swap
engines or I can rent an engine hoist for a half day and fifty bucks.
The engines are easy to swap out.
That $75.00 rubber valve cover gasket is the biggest rip off I have ever
seen! I got a new valve cover and bought that stupid thing thinking it
should be better. I was pouring oil out in 2 weeks.
My valve cover only has the two center rocker nuts holding it on, the
head isn't tapped for perimeter bolts and has been leak free for almost
4 years. I made it super clean on the mating surfaces first with an
acetone wipe down or maybe I used BBQ lighter fluid last time, don't
remember, but it has to be spotless. Even one fingerprint will wreck
the seal. I then gave the head surface a skim of permatex 'ultra' black
RTV, added the cork gasket, another skim of RTV on top of the cork and
added my plastic cover and torqued the two nuts to 15 inch pounds I
think it was.
Then comes the most important part! I let it sit without even breathing
on it for 24 hours like the directions say to let it properly 'cure'.
No leaks.
The PCV 'blowby' usually can be fixed easy. It is normally a failure in
the emissions crap.
I first trace the PCV line to the back of the carb. At the back part of
valve cover there is a real rubber elbow that goes jelly from oil and
collapses. If soft, replace it. Then behind the carb is a solenoid
thing. It was a defective part and should be replaced with a T
fitting. Then off this T a line goes to the charcoal canister. At idle
pinch this line to the canister closed. If the idle changes, the
canister purge valve is shot or the plumbing is wrong. The canister
should only purge when at speed and hot via a ported vacuum signal and
the CTO valve.
Mike
Greg wrote:
>
> Hey Mike, were did you get and how much for the engine, if I don't do
> something pretty quick I will have to hook my PCV lines up to the oil filler
> cap to keep oil recirculating :) New valve cover gasket only lasted about
> 1000 Km, gone again, at $75.00 Can. for it I don't want to put another on
> this engine, but like you I like and have decided to go with the 258, torque
> is unbelevable. Got a price from Canada engines, $1425.00 for rebuilt,
> $800.00 install, $130.00 misc. parts, be 3 grand by the time taxes were on.
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:41A8BDC2.2621BE27@sympatico.ca...
> > It took me about a year and a half in my driveway to do mine. I
> > stripped the frame and used rust converter first, then put rubber coat
> > on it.
> >
> > Unfortunately it was too little too late, the damage was done and my off
> > roading and swamp twisting has caused it to snap in 3 places in the last
> > year, now the end is toast. I will patch it up, but really need a new
> > frame. I have gotten 4 years out of it, could use another one or two
> > hopefully.
> >
> > I also debated engines and decided I liked the power and mileage the 258
> > gave me, so I stayed with it. Got a factory one with 40K on it and have
> > mine sitting around waiting for a refresh job.
> >
> > I am manually tuned up and mine just flies with that engine. I can
> > climb sand pit walls at 400 rpm without stalling and 4th will bury the
> > speedo.
> >
> > 350's suck gas. I get 11L/100km.
> >
> > The 'glass body is 'really' light eh. There is a gent here in Ontario
> > that makes sweet ones for a good price. All the metal parts, my front
> > Laredo chrome grill, the windshield, hard doors, top fit on like a
> > glove.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > griffin wrote:
> >>
> >> When you decide to do a frame job, you should drive down here and do mine
> >> at
> >> the same time. ;p Mine's no where near that bad but when I was taking my
> >> rear seat out I took a good look at the frame rails and all the common
> >> "spots" for mud entrapment. I'm pretty sure within 5 years I'll be doing
> >> a
> >> tear-down. I'm actually thinking of saving up for the time when my engine
> >> decides to die. I might just do a complete rebuild with the following:
> >> 350 V8 w/ new transmission
> >> Fuel Injection
> >> Locking diffs front and rear
> >> Fiberglass tub
> >> Reinforced and "cleaned" frame with PROPER front and rear bumpers and tow
> >> hook placement.
> >>
> >> I'll probably be looking at about a $6000-7000 CDN hit for that job and
> >> about an entire year of working on it but it'll be a pretty nice beast
> >> when
> >> it's done. Then I'll go buy one of those "Jeeps are built, not bought"
> >> stickers ;p
> >>
> >> --
> >> griffin
> >> '85 Jeep CJ-7
> >> '97 Toyota Corolla SD
> >>
> >> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> >> news:41A7C2B7.3BB07335@sympatico.ca...
> >> > Mud and dirt is the big issue I think Bill.
> >> >
> >> > When I tore down the Jeep for the 'glass body job, it took 2 days to
> >> > hose all the mud out of the frame. That stuff holds water and worse
> >> > salty water in the winter.
> >> >
> >> > I wonder if I should replace the frame tail pieces with C channel
> >> > instead of the square tubing I was thinking of? Thinking about it,
> >> > naw,
> >> > there isn't enough left to do a decent C channel job I don't think.
> >> >
> >> > Is that frame all C channel with big assed rivets in the corners? If
> >> > so
> >> > can it twist up like mine without tearing off cross members? My front
> >> > one broke too, that big wide one. All that is holding the front rails
> >> > is the warn winch mount.
> >> >
> >> > Man do I ever need a new frame..... :-(
> >> >
> >> > Mike
> >> >
> >> > "L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
> >> > >
> >> > > Real Jeeps use open channel frames like the eighteen wheelers,
> >> > > that
> >> > > never catch water and rust out:
> >> > > http://www.----------.com/realJeepFrame.jpg
> >> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> >> > > mailto:--------------------
> >> > >
> >> > > Mike Romain wrote:
> >> > > >
> >> > > > So here I am driving down the main drag in Toronto and hear/feel a
> >> > > > strange thump then scraping. Crap I think, there goes the muffler
> >> > > > or
> >> > > > tailpipe or something. Not loud, hmmm... I pull over and walk
> >> > > > back
> >> > > > looking at the guy behind me laughing and there is my frame
> >> crossmember
> >> > > > and stainless bumperette loops laying on the ground..... There was
> >> > > > a
> >> > > > left over piece if string I used to tie something once holding it
> >> > > > on.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Ouch!
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I knew it was getting ratty when my gas tank skid plate fell off a
> >> while
> >> > > > back but was hoping to get the winter out of it.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > My kid just came in laughing and asked what was holding the back
> >> springs
> >> > > > on. I can't figure that out either, they are sorta just hanging
> >> > > > there
> >> > > > on a cob web of rust....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > I have the gas tank hung off the body as it is via a couple big eye
> >> > > > hooks through the floor and cargo straps.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Oh well, I guess it is time to get some square tubing and cover the
> >> > > > frame tails and anchor the spring shackles and a new C channel
> >> > > > crossmember to them. Then to get a gas tank skid plate.
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Anyone know if a YJ 20 gallon skid plate will fit a cj 20 gallon
> >> > > > tank?
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Meanwhile some bailing wire keeps it 'looking' like it belongs
> >> > > > there.....
> >> > > >
> >> > > > Mike
> >> > > > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >> > > > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
:
: Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
: electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
: slush..
:
: Mike
I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
Drop everything on the ground.
Here's where it gets really questionable...
Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
they won't fall out.
Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
Trim the excess foam.
Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
Cut a neoprene gasket.
Bolt it up.
Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
pain in the ***.
The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
cavities.
Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
headache on my hands.
-Brian
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
:
: Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
: electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
: slush..
:
: Mike
I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
Drop everything on the ground.
Here's where it gets really questionable...
Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
they won't fall out.
Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
Trim the excess foam.
Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
Cut a neoprene gasket.
Bolt it up.
Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
pain in the ***.
The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
cavities.
Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
headache on my hands.
-Brian
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
:
: Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
: electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
: slush..
:
: Mike
I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
Drop everything on the ground.
Here's where it gets really questionable...
Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
they won't fall out.
Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
Trim the excess foam.
Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
Cut a neoprene gasket.
Bolt it up.
Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
pain in the ***.
The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
cavities.
Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
headache on my hands.
-Brian
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> :
> : Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
> : electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
> : slush..
> :
> : Mike
>
> I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
>
> Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
> firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
> Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
> Drop everything on the ground.
>
> Here's where it gets really questionable...
>
> Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
> they won't fall out.
> Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
> Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
> Trim the excess foam.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> Cut a neoprene gasket.
> Bolt it up.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
> pain in the ***.
> The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
> cavities.
> Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
> headache on my hands.
>
> -Brian
I have had experience with that spray foam and it isn't waterproof. It
will hold moisture in there big time.
I am going to put a new floor in our 88 and doubt I will own it long
enough to see that rot out seeing as she has over 300K on it now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> :
> : Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
> : electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
> : slush..
> :
> : Mike
>
> I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
>
> Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
> firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
> Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
> Drop everything on the ground.
>
> Here's where it gets really questionable...
>
> Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
> they won't fall out.
> Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
> Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
> Trim the excess foam.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> Cut a neoprene gasket.
> Bolt it up.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
> pain in the ***.
> The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
> cavities.
> Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
> headache on my hands.
>
> -Brian
I have had experience with that spray foam and it isn't waterproof. It
will hold moisture in there big time.
I am going to put a new floor in our 88 and doubt I will own it long
enough to see that rot out seeing as she has over 300K on it now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> :
> : Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
> : electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
> : slush..
> :
> : Mike
>
> I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
>
> Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
> firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
> Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
> Drop everything on the ground.
>
> Here's where it gets really questionable...
>
> Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
> they won't fall out.
> Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
> Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
> Trim the excess foam.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> Cut a neoprene gasket.
> Bolt it up.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
> pain in the ***.
> The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
> cavities.
> Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
> headache on my hands.
>
> -Brian
I have had experience with that spray foam and it isn't waterproof. It
will hold moisture in there big time.
I am going to put a new floor in our 88 and doubt I will own it long
enough to see that rot out seeing as she has over 300K on it now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> :
> : Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
> : electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
> : slush..
> :
> : Mike
>
> I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
>
> Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
> firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
> Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
> Drop everything on the ground.
>
> Here's where it gets really questionable...
>
> Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
> they won't fall out.
> Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
> Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
> Trim the excess foam.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> Cut a neoprene gasket.
> Bolt it up.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
> pain in the ***.
> The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
> cavities.
> Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
> headache on my hands.
>
> -Brian
I have had experience with that spray foam and it isn't waterproof. It
will hold moisture in there big time.
I am going to put a new floor in our 88 and doubt I will own it long
enough to see that rot out seeing as she has over 300K on it now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
Cherokee-LTD wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> :
> : Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
> : electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
> : slush..
> :
> : Mike
>
> I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
>
> Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
> firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
> Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
> Drop everything on the ground.
>
> Here's where it gets really questionable...
>
> Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
> they won't fall out.
> Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
> Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
> Trim the excess foam.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> Cut a neoprene gasket.
> Bolt it up.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
> pain in the ***.
> The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
> cavities.
> Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
> headache on my hands.
>
> -Brian
I have had experience with that spray foam and it isn't waterproof. It
will hold moisture in there big time.
I am going to put a new floor in our 88 and doubt I will own it long
enough to see that rot out seeing as she has over 300K on it now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> :
> : Anywhere the aluminum touches will have major corrosion issues from
> : electrolysis and if you see snow, any under holes hold it and salt
> : slush..
> :
> : Mike
>
> I have that part figured out... this is what I had in mind.
>
> Cut and test fit the aluminium... 4 sections shaped to fit (bent up near the
> firewall and accommodate for the slope in the floor pan).
> Drill through the floor and aluminium for stainless hardware.
> Drop everything on the ground.
>
> Here's where it gets really questionable...
>
> Put the bolts in from the bottom, tape the bolt heads to the aluminium so
> they won't fall out.
> Drop 1/4" nylon washers over the threads from the top side.
> Spray expanding foam and slam it into place before it sets.
> Trim the excess foam.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> Cut a neoprene gasket.
> Bolt it up.
> Caulk the perimeter with seam sealer.
>
> The foam method would fill most if not all cavities but would be a messy
> pain in the ***.
> The gasket method would be easy but would not fully contour and would leave
> cavities.
> Either way, the aluminium must be floating and sealed or I'll have a bigger
> headache on my hands.
>
> -Brian
I have had experience with that spray foam and it isn't waterproof. It
will hold moisture in there big time.
I am going to put a new floor in our 88 and doubt I will own it long
enough to see that rot out seeing as she has over 300K on it now.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 12:41:42 UTC "Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com>
wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
Mike has a good point on the electrolosis problem but there is one old
timer's trick that seems to work quite well on seams and sandwich
sections. Get a bucket of roofing tar - that black, nasty gooey
stuff. Coat both sides of the "sandwich" liberally so that you
squeeze out the excess as you bolt/rivet the sections together. If
there are seams and crevices, turn a heat gun or some such (I don't
recommend an open flame <g>) on the pieces to get the tar to flow.
Once the aromatics boil off that tar, it remains elastic and the
original application penetrates rust and cavities. It may not be as
good as POR 15 at converting rust, but it even works to seal repairs
in water tanks - like the bottom of evaporative coolers - for years at
a time. The stuff is cheap, so use plenty. An uncle of mine used
roofing tar as a sealer in his body shop on the Gulf Coast and swore
it filled and worked better than anything else in the salt spray.
It's messy, so get a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up with - fair
warning.
--
Will Honea
wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
Mike has a good point on the electrolosis problem but there is one old
timer's trick that seems to work quite well on seams and sandwich
sections. Get a bucket of roofing tar - that black, nasty gooey
stuff. Coat both sides of the "sandwich" liberally so that you
squeeze out the excess as you bolt/rivet the sections together. If
there are seams and crevices, turn a heat gun or some such (I don't
recommend an open flame <g>) on the pieces to get the tar to flow.
Once the aromatics boil off that tar, it remains elastic and the
original application penetrates rust and cavities. It may not be as
good as POR 15 at converting rust, but it even works to seal repairs
in water tanks - like the bottom of evaporative coolers - for years at
a time. The stuff is cheap, so use plenty. An uncle of mine used
roofing tar as a sealer in his body shop on the Gulf Coast and swore
it filled and worked better than anything else in the salt spray.
It's messy, so get a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up with - fair
warning.
--
Will Honea
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 12:41:42 UTC "Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com>
wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
Mike has a good point on the electrolosis problem but there is one old
timer's trick that seems to work quite well on seams and sandwich
sections. Get a bucket of roofing tar - that black, nasty gooey
stuff. Coat both sides of the "sandwich" liberally so that you
squeeze out the excess as you bolt/rivet the sections together. If
there are seams and crevices, turn a heat gun or some such (I don't
recommend an open flame <g>) on the pieces to get the tar to flow.
Once the aromatics boil off that tar, it remains elastic and the
original application penetrates rust and cavities. It may not be as
good as POR 15 at converting rust, but it even works to seal repairs
in water tanks - like the bottom of evaporative coolers - for years at
a time. The stuff is cheap, so use plenty. An uncle of mine used
roofing tar as a sealer in his body shop on the Gulf Coast and swore
it filled and worked better than anything else in the salt spray.
It's messy, so get a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up with - fair
warning.
--
Will Honea
wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
Mike has a good point on the electrolosis problem but there is one old
timer's trick that seems to work quite well on seams and sandwich
sections. Get a bucket of roofing tar - that black, nasty gooey
stuff. Coat both sides of the "sandwich" liberally so that you
squeeze out the excess as you bolt/rivet the sections together. If
there are seams and crevices, turn a heat gun or some such (I don't
recommend an open flame <g>) on the pieces to get the tar to flow.
Once the aromatics boil off that tar, it remains elastic and the
original application penetrates rust and cavities. It may not be as
good as POR 15 at converting rust, but it even works to seal repairs
in water tanks - like the bottom of evaporative coolers - for years at
a time. The stuff is cheap, so use plenty. An uncle of mine used
roofing tar as a sealer in his body shop on the Gulf Coast and swore
it filled and worked better than anything else in the salt spray.
It's messy, so get a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up with - fair
warning.
--
Will Honea
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Man I hate rust! or Back bumper just fell off...
On Sun, 28 Nov 2004 12:41:42 UTC "Cherokee-LTD" <spammenot@home.com>
wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
Mike has a good point on the electrolosis problem but there is one old
timer's trick that seems to work quite well on seams and sandwich
sections. Get a bucket of roofing tar - that black, nasty gooey
stuff. Coat both sides of the "sandwich" liberally so that you
squeeze out the excess as you bolt/rivet the sections together. If
there are seams and crevices, turn a heat gun or some such (I don't
recommend an open flame <g>) on the pieces to get the tar to flow.
Once the aromatics boil off that tar, it remains elastic and the
original application penetrates rust and cavities. It may not be as
good as POR 15 at converting rust, but it even works to seal repairs
in water tanks - like the bottom of evaporative coolers - for years at
a time. The stuff is cheap, so use plenty. An uncle of mine used
roofing tar as a sealer in his body shop on the Gulf Coast and swore
it filled and worked better than anything else in the salt spray.
It's messy, so get a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up with - fair
warning.
--
Will Honea
wrote:
>
> "Snow" <snowbal@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> : Now if the rain ever decides to stop I have to get out and prime/paint the
> : skins on the drives rocker panel.
> :
> : Snow...
> :
> I lost a good work day (Saturday) to lounging around... dry and pretty mild
> here but I didn't have the energy to do anything.
>
> I've been thinking of plating the underside of my floor pan with 1/16"
> checker plate aluminium ($4.00/sqft). I'm thinking of running from the pinch
> seam flush to the frame and inboard of the frame to the tranny tunnel. I'm
> thinking of it as a barrier (not as skid protection) but I'm concerned about
> creating cavities between the floor and the aluminium. Instinct tells me I
> may be causing more problems than creating solutions... hmmm.
Mike has a good point on the electrolosis problem but there is one old
timer's trick that seems to work quite well on seams and sandwich
sections. Get a bucket of roofing tar - that black, nasty gooey
stuff. Coat both sides of the "sandwich" liberally so that you
squeeze out the excess as you bolt/rivet the sections together. If
there are seams and crevices, turn a heat gun or some such (I don't
recommend an open flame <g>) on the pieces to get the tar to flow.
Once the aromatics boil off that tar, it remains elastic and the
original application penetrates rust and cavities. It may not be as
good as POR 15 at converting rust, but it even works to seal repairs
in water tanks - like the bottom of evaporative coolers - for years at
a time. The stuff is cheap, so use plenty. An uncle of mine used
roofing tar as a sealer in his body shop on the Gulf Coast and swore
it filled and worked better than anything else in the salt spray.
It's messy, so get a gallon of mineral spirits to clean up with - fair
warning.
--
Will Honea