Rusted

I was hoping that you would respond. The cap is approx 4 months old, I will
replace cap and rotor tonight to see if that changes anything. cool call.
There is oil all over the palce in that motor, I will try to engine clean it
as well to see if anything changes or I can see anything.


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
> out all over the place.
>
> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
> there?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
>>
>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>> to
>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels like
>> I
>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style backfiring
>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles so
>> it
>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>> that
>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>> the
>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>
>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>> not
>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>> the
>> original nuts.
>>
>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>
>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more or
>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>
>> 83 CJ-7
>>
>> 258 I-6 engine
>>
>> MC2100 carb
>>
>> stock and original distrubutor

Rusted

I was hoping that you would respond. The cap is approx 4 months old, I will
replace cap and rotor tonight to see if that changes anything. cool call.
There is oil all over the palce in that motor, I will try to engine clean it
as well to see if anything changes or I can see anything.


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
> out all over the place.
>
> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
> there?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
>>
>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>> to
>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels like
>> I
>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style backfiring
>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles so
>> it
>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>> that
>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>> the
>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>
>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>> not
>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>> the
>> original nuts.
>>
>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>
>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more or
>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>
>> 83 CJ-7
>>
>> 258 I-6 engine
>>
>> MC2100 carb
>>
>> stock and original distrubutor

Rusted

I was hoping that you would respond. The cap is approx 4 months old, I will
replace cap and rotor tonight to see if that changes anything. cool call.
There is oil all over the palce in that motor, I will try to engine clean it
as well to see if anything changes or I can see anything.


"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
> out all over the place.
>
> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
> there?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
>>
>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>> to
>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels like
>> I
>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style backfiring
>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles so
>> it
>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>> that
>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>> the
>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>
>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>> not
>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>> the
>> original nuts.
>>
>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>
>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more or
>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>
>> 83 CJ-7
>>
>> 258 I-6 engine
>>
>> MC2100 carb
>>
>> stock and original distrubutor

Rusted

Close, but not yet. I took off the distributor cap to see a ball bearing
on top of the distributor. The top of the cap had come uncrimped and the
parts had fallen out. New cap and rotor later and I have much more power,
but I still get the machine gun effect at 2000 RPM.

I have not cleaned the coil yet, but will do that the next time I get a
minute. Other ideas??? Being a natural pessimist I am thinking that I
need to remove the valve cover and check that the bolts that hold down the
rocker arms have not worked loose.

Side note. When I ask for rotor they always ask if it is a manual or auto.
There are different part numbers. The rotor for the auto is about 1/8"
shorter than the rotor for the manual for some reason. I think that the
short rotors you speak of are probably the parts guy grabbing the wrong one.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
> out all over the place.
>
> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
> there?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
>>
>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>> to
>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels like
>> I
>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style backfiring
>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles so
>> it
>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>> that
>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>> the
>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>
>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>> not
>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>> the
>> original nuts.
>>
>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>
>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more or
>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>
>> 83 CJ-7
>>
>> 258 I-6 engine
>>
>> MC2100 carb
>>
>> stock and original distrubutor

Rusted

Close, but not yet. I took off the distributor cap to see a ball bearing
on top of the distributor. The top of the cap had come uncrimped and the
parts had fallen out. New cap and rotor later and I have much more power,
but I still get the machine gun effect at 2000 RPM.

I have not cleaned the coil yet, but will do that the next time I get a
minute. Other ideas??? Being a natural pessimist I am thinking that I
need to remove the valve cover and check that the bolts that hold down the
rocker arms have not worked loose.

Side note. When I ask for rotor they always ask if it is a manual or auto.
There are different part numbers. The rotor for the auto is about 1/8"
shorter than the rotor for the manual for some reason. I think that the
short rotors you speak of are probably the parts guy grabbing the wrong one.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
> out all over the place.
>
> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
> there?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
>>
>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>> to
>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels like
>> I
>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style backfiring
>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles so
>> it
>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>> that
>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>> the
>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>
>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>> not
>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>> the
>> original nuts.
>>
>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>
>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more or
>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>
>> 83 CJ-7
>>
>> 258 I-6 engine
>>
>> MC2100 carb
>>
>> stock and original distrubutor

Rusted

Close, but not yet. I took off the distributor cap to see a ball bearing
on top of the distributor. The top of the cap had come uncrimped and the
parts had fallen out. New cap and rotor later and I have much more power,
but I still get the machine gun effect at 2000 RPM.

I have not cleaned the coil yet, but will do that the next time I get a
minute. Other ideas??? Being a natural pessimist I am thinking that I
need to remove the valve cover and check that the bolts that hold down the
rocker arms have not worked loose.

Side note. When I ask for rotor they always ask if it is a manual or auto.
There are different part numbers. The rotor for the auto is about 1/8"
shorter than the rotor for the manual for some reason. I think that the
short rotors you speak of are probably the parts guy grabbing the wrong one.




"Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
> out all over the place.
>
> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
> there?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> Rusted wrote:
>>
>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>> to
>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels like
>> I
>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style backfiring
>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles so
>> it
>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>> that
>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>> the
>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>
>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>> not
>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>> the
>> original nuts.
>>
>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>
>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more or
>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>
>> 83 CJ-7
>>
>> 258 I-6 engine
>>
>> MC2100 carb
>>
>> stock and original distrubutor

Rusted

I am now wondering if this is a valve issue. Not so much a weak spring,
but I wonder if nuts that hold the rocker on (right under the valve cover)
have come loose. I did remove 4 of them to swap to the bolt-less style
bridge when I changed my valve cover. I wonder if they did not get torqued
down properly, of if reusing the old nuts was an issue. Anyone have torque
specs for those nuts and/or know if there are issues of using the old nuts
or if I need to just buy all new to make sure





"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:DNSqg.4023$qi5.2051@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Also a longshot, but a very weak valve spring will show these symptoms as
> well.
>
> Chris
>
> "Earle Horton" <Nurse-NOSPAM-Busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:44abf6fe$0$23735$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
>> Add plug wires to that.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
>>> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
>>> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
>>> out all over the place.
>>>
>>> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
>>> there?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Rusted wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258
>>> > engine
>> to
>>> > the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels
>> like I
>>> > am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style
>> backfiring
>>> > through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles
>> so it
>>> > is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>>> > possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light
>>> > the
>>> > mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't
>>> > believe
>> that
>>> > is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to
>>> > get
>> the
>>> > max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun
>>> > type
>>> > back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>> >
>>> > A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>>> > aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>>> > swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they
>>> > were
>> not
>>> > needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and
>>> > used
>> the
>>> > original nuts.
>>> >
>>> > The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>> >
>>> > Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more
>> or
>>> > less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>>> > loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>> >
>>> > 83 CJ-7
>>> >
>>> > 258 I-6 engine
>>> >
>>> > MC2100 carb
>>> >
>>> > stock and original distrubutor
>>
>>
>
>

Rusted

I am now wondering if this is a valve issue. Not so much a weak spring,
but I wonder if nuts that hold the rocker on (right under the valve cover)
have come loose. I did remove 4 of them to swap to the bolt-less style
bridge when I changed my valve cover. I wonder if they did not get torqued
down properly, of if reusing the old nuts was an issue. Anyone have torque
specs for those nuts and/or know if there are issues of using the old nuts
or if I need to just buy all new to make sure





"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:DNSqg.4023$qi5.2051@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Also a longshot, but a very weak valve spring will show these symptoms as
> well.
>
> Chris
>
> "Earle Horton" <Nurse-NOSPAM-Busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:44abf6fe$0$23735$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
>> Add plug wires to that.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
>>> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
>>> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
>>> out all over the place.
>>>
>>> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
>>> there?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Rusted wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258
>>> > engine
>> to
>>> > the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels
>> like I
>>> > am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style
>> backfiring
>>> > through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles
>> so it
>>> > is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>>> > possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light
>>> > the
>>> > mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't
>>> > believe
>> that
>>> > is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to
>>> > get
>> the
>>> > max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun
>>> > type
>>> > back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>> >
>>> > A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>>> > aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>>> > swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they
>>> > were
>> not
>>> > needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and
>>> > used
>> the
>>> > original nuts.
>>> >
>>> > The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>> >
>>> > Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more
>> or
>>> > less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>>> > loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>> >
>>> > 83 CJ-7
>>> >
>>> > 258 I-6 engine
>>> >
>>> > MC2100 carb
>>> >
>>> > stock and original distrubutor
>>
>>
>
>

Rusted

I am now wondering if this is a valve issue. Not so much a weak spring,
but I wonder if nuts that hold the rocker on (right under the valve cover)
have come loose. I did remove 4 of them to swap to the bolt-less style
bridge when I changed my valve cover. I wonder if they did not get torqued
down properly, of if reusing the old nuts was an issue. Anyone have torque
specs for those nuts and/or know if there are issues of using the old nuts
or if I need to just buy all new to make sure





"c" <c@me.org> wrote in message
news:DNSqg.4023$qi5.2051@tornado.rdc-kc.rr.com...
> Also a longshot, but a very weak valve spring will show these symptoms as
> well.
>
> Chris
>
> "Earle Horton" <Nurse-NOSPAM-Busters@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:44abf6fe$0$23735$a82e2bb9@reader.athenanews.c om...
>> Add plug wires to that.
>>
>> Earle
>>
>> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
>> news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
>>> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
>>> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
>>> out all over the place.
>>>
>>> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
>>> there?
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>
>>> Rusted wrote:
>>> >
>>> > Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258
>>> > engine
>> to
>>> > the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels
>> like I
>>> > am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style
>> backfiring
>>> > through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles
>> so it
>>> > is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>>> > possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light
>>> > the
>>> > mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't
>>> > believe
>> that
>>> > is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to
>>> > get
>> the
>>> > max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun
>>> > type
>>> > back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>> >
>>> > A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>>> > aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>> process I
>>> > swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they
>>> > were
>> not
>>> > needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and
>>> > used
>> the
>>> > original nuts.
>>> >
>>> > The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>> >
>>> > Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more
>> or
>>> > less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>> come
>>> > loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>> >
>>> > 83 CJ-7
>>> >
>>> > 258 I-6 engine
>>> >
>>> > MC2100 carb
>>> >
>>> > stock and original distrubutor
>>
>>
>
>

David Drum

I would suggest that you purchase a bottle of STP gas treatment and put it
in your tank before the next fill up. You may have picked up some water in
your gas. I have had this happen several times. And after 1 bottle, things
smoothed out.

david 91yj 05 sport.

"Rusted" <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:vV0rg.44275$Sl6.33109@fe75.usenetserver.com.. .
> Close, but not yet. I took off the distributor cap to see a ball bearing
> on top of the distributor. The top of the cap had come uncrimped and the
> parts had fallen out. New cap and rotor later and I have much more
> power, but I still get the machine gun effect at 2000 RPM.
>
> I have not cleaned the coil yet, but will do that the next time I get a
> minute. Other ideas??? Being a natural pessimist I am thinking that I
> need to remove the valve cover and check that the bolts that hold down the
> rocker arms have not worked loose.
>
> Side note. When I ask for rotor they always ask if it is a manual or
> auto. There are different part numbers. The rotor for the auto is about
> 1/8" shorter than the rotor for the manual for some reason. I think that
> the short rotors you speak of are probably the parts guy grabbing the
> wrong one.
>
>
>
>
> "Mike Romain" <romainm@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
> news:44ABECB3.C34888EE@sympatico.ca...
>> Bad distributor cap? There are a bunch of bad caps and rotor sets out
>> there. The rotors are too short so they work for a short time, then arc
>> out all over the place.
>>
>> Oil drip onto the coil power connection or loose almost broken wire
>> there?
>>
>> Mike
>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>
>> Rusted wrote:
>>>
>>> Over the past 7-10 days I have been loosing power with my '83 258 engine
>>> to
>>> the point where it is difficult to drive and keep running. It feels
>>> like I
>>> am pulling a trailer, and I am getting rapid machine gun style
>>> backfiring
>>> through the muffler when I get around 2000 RPM. It has 215,000 miles
>>> so it
>>> is a little tired anyways. It felt like the timing had slipped, like
>>> possibly the timing chain had slipped, but when I use a timing light the
>>> mark is still in the ballpark of where it should be, so I don't believe
>>> that
>>> is the case. I re-adjusted the timing using only a vacuum gauge to get
>>> the
>>> max vacuum and it now idols better, but I still get the machine gun type
>>> back firing when I get over 2000 RPM.
>>>
>>> A few months ago I replaced the valve cover from a plastic cover to an
>>> aluminum cover to stop the constant oil leak I was having. In the
>>> process I
>>> swapped the valve bridges with the non-bolt style bridge since they were
>>> not
>>> needed any longer. When did replace those I torqued them down, and used
>>> the
>>> original nuts.
>>>
>>> The vacuum advance is still moving properly and has been well cleaned.
>>>
>>> Any ideas what is going on? My first idea of timing seems to be more
>>> or
>>> less ruled out. I am now leaning towards one of the rocker bolts has
>>> come
>>> loose. Any other ideas of what to look for or check?
>>>
>>> 83 CJ-7
>>>
>>> 258 I-6 engine
>>>
>>> MC2100 carb
>>>
>>> stock and original distrubutor
>
>
>