Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? -- JimG 80' CJ-7, 258 CID 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines 4.56 D30-D44 SOA D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn 8000i w/dual batteries LockRight F&R "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ... > Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to > 'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position > or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them > various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control > arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the > pinion starts to point downward. > > If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to > eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV > driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock > control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget > in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon. > > If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and > nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet > is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range. > > JMHO. > > WillysGuy wrote: > > > Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that of a 3" > > lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get to the > > Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm > > considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems will I > > have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the arms)? > > Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control arms > > for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm? > > > > Thanks, > > Pete > > -- > __________________________________________________ _________ > tw > 03 TJ Rubicon > 01 XJ Sport > > There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." > -- Dave Barry > > Pronunciation: 'jEp > Function: noun > Date: 1940 > > Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) > A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, > 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in > World War II. > > http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html > (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) > __________________________________________________ _________ > |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? -- JimG 80' CJ-7, 258 CID 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines 4.56 D30-D44 SOA D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn 8000i w/dual batteries LockRight F&R "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ... > Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to > 'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position > or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them > various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control > arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the > pinion starts to point downward. > > If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to > eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV > driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock > control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget > in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon. > > If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and > nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet > is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range. > > JMHO. > > WillysGuy wrote: > > > Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that of a 3" > > lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get to the > > Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm > > considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems will I > > have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the arms)? > > Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control arms > > for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm? > > > > Thanks, > > Pete > > -- > __________________________________________________ _________ > tw > 03 TJ Rubicon > 01 XJ Sport > > There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." > -- Dave Barry > > Pronunciation: 'jEp > Function: noun > Date: 1940 > > Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) > A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, > 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in > World War II. > > http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html > (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) > __________________________________________________ _________ > |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil
only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? -- JimG 80' CJ-7, 258 CID 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines 4.56 D30-D44 SOA D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks Warn 8000i w/dual batteries LockRight F&R "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ... > Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to > 'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position > or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them > various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control > arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the > pinion starts to point downward. > > If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to > eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV > driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock > control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget > in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon. > > If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and > nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet > is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range. > > JMHO. > > WillysGuy wrote: > > > Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that of a 3" > > lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get to the > > Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm > > considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems will I > > have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the arms)? > > Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control arms > > for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm? > > > > Thanks, > > Pete > > -- > __________________________________________________ _________ > tw > 03 TJ Rubicon > 01 XJ Sport > > There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." > -- Dave Barry > > Pronunciation: 'jEp > Function: noun > Date: 1940 > > Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) > A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, > 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in > World War II. > > http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html > (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) > __________________________________________________ _________ > |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
"JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com... > On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil > only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? > > -- > JimG > 80' CJ-7, 258 CID > 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines > 4.56 D30-D44 SOA > D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > Warn 8000i w/dual batteries > LockRight F&R > Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear. My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front, but would like opinions. Chris |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
"JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com... > On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil > only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? > > -- > JimG > 80' CJ-7, 258 CID > 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines > 4.56 D30-D44 SOA > D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > Warn 8000i w/dual batteries > LockRight F&R > Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear. My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front, but would like opinions. Chris |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
"JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com... > On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil > only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? > > -- > JimG > 80' CJ-7, 258 CID > 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines > 4.56 D30-D44 SOA > D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > Warn 8000i w/dual batteries > LockRight F&R > Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear. My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front, but would like opinions. Chris |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
Explain further, because as I adjust my lower arms, my pinion angle changes.
Nathan Otis wrote: > Lower arms are for wheelbase, upper arms are for pinion angle. > n. > > "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message > news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ... > >>Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to >>'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position >>or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them >>various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control >>arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the >>pinion starts to point downward. >> >>If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to >>eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV >>driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock >>control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget >>in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon. >> >>If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and >>nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet >>is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range. >> >>JMHO. >> >>WillysGuy wrote: >> >> >>>Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that > > of a 3" > >>>lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get > > to the > >>>Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm >>>considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems > > will I > >>>have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the > > arms)? > >>>Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control > > arms > >>>for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm? >>> >>>Thanks, >>>Pete >> >>-- >>________________________________________________ ___________ >>tw >>03 TJ Rubicon >>01 XJ Sport >> >>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." >>-- Dave Barry >> >>Pronunciation: 'jEp >>Function: noun >>Date: 1940 >> >>Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) >>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, >>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in >>World War II. >> >>http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html >>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) >>________________________________________________ ___________ >> > > > -- __________________________________________________ _________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) __________________________________________________ _________ |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
Explain further, because as I adjust my lower arms, my pinion angle changes.
Nathan Otis wrote: > Lower arms are for wheelbase, upper arms are for pinion angle. > n. > > "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message > news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ... > >>Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to >>'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position >>or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them >>various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control >>arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the >>pinion starts to point downward. >> >>If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to >>eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV >>driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock >>control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget >>in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon. >> >>If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and >>nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet >>is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range. >> >>JMHO. >> >>WillysGuy wrote: >> >> >>>Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that > > of a 3" > >>>lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get > > to the > >>>Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm >>>considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems > > will I > >>>have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the > > arms)? > >>>Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control > > arms > >>>for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm? >>> >>>Thanks, >>>Pete >> >>-- >>________________________________________________ ___________ >>tw >>03 TJ Rubicon >>01 XJ Sport >> >>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." >>-- Dave Barry >> >>Pronunciation: 'jEp >>Function: noun >>Date: 1940 >> >>Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) >>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, >>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in >>World War II. >> >>http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html >>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) >>________________________________________________ ___________ >> > > > -- __________________________________________________ _________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) __________________________________________________ _________ |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts
Explain further, because as I adjust my lower arms, my pinion angle changes.
Nathan Otis wrote: > Lower arms are for wheelbase, upper arms are for pinion angle. > n. > > "twaldron" <twaldron@sbcOBVIOUSglobal.net> wrote in message > news:zAjpb.1414$0D7.802@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com ... > >>Yes, you should at least get the lower arms. This will enable you to >>'clock' or rotate the diff. to bring the driveshaft into proper position >>or alignment. The control arms are adjustable so you can make them >>various lengths. For instance, as you shorten the lower rear control >>arms, the pinion starts to point upward. If you lengthen them, the >>pinion starts to point downward. >> >>If you lift 3", you will quite probably need a CV driveshaft to >>eliminate driveline vibrations caused by the lift. If you have a CV >>driveshaft, you will need to point the pinion up higher than the stock >>control arms will allow, necessitating the adjustable arms. Also, budget >>in an SYE kit if this is not a Rubicon. >> >>If you take a stock TJ and try to stuff 3" taller springs into it and >>nothing else, you will not be happy, and neither will your TJ. Best bet >>is to buy a complete kit when you get into the 3" or higher range. >> >>JMHO. >> >>WillysGuy wrote: >> >> >>>Why is it that some of the TJ Lifts only include springs, such as that > > of a 3" > >>>lift, others include only Lower Control Arms and Springs, then you get > > to the > >>>Larger Lifts such as 4.5" and they include both Uppers and Lowers? I'm >>>considering getting a 3" lift, with the springs only, but what problems > > will I > >>>have with the lift as springs are only included (ie...the angle of the > > arms)? > >>>Should I consider getting Lower Control arms too? Are the lower control > > arms > >>>for a 3" lift longer than that of a stock arm? >>> >>>Thanks, >>>Pete >> >>-- >>________________________________________________ ___________ >>tw >>03 TJ Rubicon >>01 XJ Sport >> >>There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." >>-- Dave Barry >> >>Pronunciation: 'jEp >>Function: noun >>Date: 1940 >> >>Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) >>A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, >>1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in >>World War II. >> >>http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html >>(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) >>________________________________________________ ___________ >> > > > -- __________________________________________________ _________ tw 03 TJ Rubicon 01 XJ Sport There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." -- Dave Barry Pronunciation: 'jEp Function: noun Date: 1940 Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose) A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase, 1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in World War II. http://www.7slotgrille.com/jeepers/t...ron/index.html (Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email) __________________________________________________ _________ |
Re: Lower Control Arms - TJ Lifts OT (this topic anyway)
Hi Chris,
>What is your opinion on the locker in the front? A front locker is a must-have for the wheelin' that I do... but can be tricky in the shallow snow/ice. For shallow snow or ice I will sometimes unlock one of the front hubs... that helps. For binding, I have the twin sticks to disengage the front for sharp turns on the trail. >doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners Mine will only unlock if not accelerating in a turn... it then ratchets nicely. I purposely let off the gas in turns so it will ratchet.... if I don't it will sometimes build up and then pop loudly ("have a seat cover surgically removed"). You definitely have to adjust your driving technique with lockers on pavement. I find myself shifting gears as smoothly as possible.... ease into the gas and don't accelerate in turns. >air locker in the front Not sure what the advantage would be over twin sticks (assumes 300 transfer case). The twin sticks are much less expensive! JimG "c" <c@me.org> wrote in message news:i8xpb.105718$832.73647@twister.rdc-kc.rr.com... > > > "JimG" <jimg@cj7.com> wrote in message > news:vqd6sklud8ae29@corp.supernews.com... > > On the same subject... As a possible future TJ owner, how about a 2" coil > > only lift? Are lower arms required? Would that be good for 32" tires? > > > > -- > > JimG > > 80' CJ-7, 258 CID > > 35" BFG MT's on 15x10 Centerlines > > 4.56 D30-D44 SOA > > D300 w/4:1 & Currie twin sticks > > Warn 8000i w/dual batteries > > LockRight F&R > > > > > Jim, I noticed you have the Lock Right's in your Jeep. What is your opinion > on the locker in the front? I have one in my 2wd S10 pickup that is a > street/strip type vehicle, and it's great for dry pavement traction, but I > feel it doesn't "unlock" easy enough when going around corners. I've had the > truck do a complete 360 on me on a wet road which caused me to have a seat > cover surgically removed, if you know what I mean. I haven't found a Jeep > here yet, but I was considering using the Lock Right, at least for the rear. > My concern here is that I will have to drive this thing in the winter, and I > don't want it acting like my S10 does. From what I've read here, I think the > best setup might be a Lock Right in the rear and an air locker in the front, > but would like opinions. > > Chris > > |
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