Re: lock core seize
 

Hi Adam,
I would use a hair dyer, and heat the locks up then blow them out
with a water repellent like WD-40. YOur parts store would probably know
the right product for your problem.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

adam wrote:
>
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Hi Adam,
I would use a hair dyer, and heat the locks up then blow them out
with a water repellent like WD-40. YOur parts store would probably know
the right product for your problem.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

adam wrote:
>
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Hi Adam,
I would use a hair dyer, and heat the locks up then blow them out
with a water repellent like WD-40. YOur parts store would probably know
the right product for your problem.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

adam wrote:
>
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

lock core seize
 

My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
for a reasonable price.

thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

yeah...I tried the commercial product lock-ese...but no luck. I will
try heating it up though! thanks

On Dec 2, 9:03 pm, "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi Adam,
> I would use a hair dyer, and heat the locks up then blow them out
> with a water repellent like WD-40. YOur parts store would probably know
> the right product for your problem.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> adam wrote:
>
> > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > for a reasonable price.
>
> > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

yeah...I tried the commercial product lock-ese...but no luck. I will
try heating it up though! thanks

On Dec 2, 9:03 pm, "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi Adam,
> I would use a hair dyer, and heat the locks up then blow them out
> with a water repellent like WD-40. YOur parts store would probably know
> the right product for your problem.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> adam wrote:
>
> > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > for a reasonable price.
>
> > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

yeah...I tried the commercial product lock-ese...but no luck. I will
try heating it up though! thanks

On Dec 2, 9:03 pm, "L.W.(Bill) ------ III" <billhug...@cox.net> wrote:
> Hi Adam,
> I would use a hair dyer, and heat the locks up then blow them out
> with a water repellent like WD-40. YOur parts store would probably know
> the right product for your problem.
> God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
> mailto:LW------...@aol.comhttp://www.----------.com/
>
> adam wrote:
>
> > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > for a reasonable price.
>
> > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:

> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.

Try Trailquest:

http://www.trailquest.com/4x4accesso...key_lock.shtml

They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the
same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and
your new locksets to a locksmith before installing.

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:

> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.

Try Trailquest:

http://www.trailquest.com/4x4accesso...key_lock.shtml

They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the
same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and
your new locksets to a locksmith before installing.

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:

> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.

Try Trailquest:

http://www.trailquest.com/4x4accesso...key_lock.shtml

They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the
same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and
your new locksets to a locksmith before installing.

Re: lock core seize
 

Try turning the key to the full unlock position, then while holding the key
in that position, give the door a sharp rap with your fist just above the
lock and to the right (DS) (left on the PS). This will jar the locking
mechanism to the unlock position. If, as you say, you can unlock from the
inside, then your lock is not frozen.

What happens is when the locks get really cold, the mechanism and linkages
do not move to the full unlock position for the key lock to unlock. The
inside locking lever has a greater movement which forces the full unlock
position. Give it a try.

Scott
"Outatime" <user@example.net> wrote in message
news:kaadnczC_Z3OzO_YnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@softcom.net. ..
> adam wrote:
>
>> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
>> for a reasonable price.
>
> Try Trailquest:
>
> http://www.trailquest.com/4x4accesso...key_lock.shtml
>
> They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the
> same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and your
> new locksets to a locksmith before installing.
>

Re: lock core seize
 

Try turning the key to the full unlock position, then while holding the key
in that position, give the door a sharp rap with your fist just above the
lock and to the right (DS) (left on the PS). This will jar the locking
mechanism to the unlock position. If, as you say, you can unlock from the
inside, then your lock is not frozen.

What happens is when the locks get really cold, the mechanism and linkages
do not move to the full unlock position for the key lock to unlock. The
inside locking lever has a greater movement which forces the full unlock
position. Give it a try.

Scott
"Outatime" <user@example.net> wrote in message
news:kaadnczC_Z3OzO_YnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@softcom.net. ..
> adam wrote:
>
>> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
>> for a reasonable price.
>
> Try Trailquest:
>
> http://www.trailquest.com/4x4accesso...key_lock.shtml
>
> They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the
> same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and your
> new locksets to a locksmith before installing.
>

Re: lock core seize
 

Try turning the key to the full unlock position, then while holding the key
in that position, give the door a sharp rap with your fist just above the
lock and to the right (DS) (left on the PS). This will jar the locking
mechanism to the unlock position. If, as you say, you can unlock from the
inside, then your lock is not frozen.

What happens is when the locks get really cold, the mechanism and linkages
do not move to the full unlock position for the key lock to unlock. The
inside locking lever has a greater movement which forces the full unlock
position. Give it a try.

Scott
"Outatime" <user@example.net> wrote in message
news:kaadnczC_Z3OzO_YnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@softcom.net. ..
> adam wrote:
>
>> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
>> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
>> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
>> for a reasonable price.
>
> Try Trailquest:
>
> http://www.trailquest.com/4x4accesso...key_lock.shtml
>
> They carry lock cylinders at reasonable prices. If you want to keep the
> same ignition key and have it fit all the new locks, take the key and your
> new locksets to a locksmith before installing.
>

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
> sets for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

How old is the key? A worn key will cause all sorts
of problems.

--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
> sets for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

How old is the key? A worn key will cause all sorts
of problems.

--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
> sets for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

How old is the key? A worn key will cause all sorts
of problems.

--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

Would you please define 'froze' to me.

Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?

Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?

Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.

I have some ideas for all of the above.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

adam wrote:
>
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Would you please define 'froze' to me.

Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?

Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?

Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.

I have some ideas for all of the above.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

adam wrote:
>
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Would you please define 'froze' to me.

Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?

Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?

Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.

I have some ideas for all of the above.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

adam wrote:
>
> My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> for a reasonable price.
>
> thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
"locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
not unlock.

Thanks for you help,

adam

On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>
> Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>
> Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>
> Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>
> I have some ideas for all of the above.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>
> > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > for a reasonable price.
>
> > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
"locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
not unlock.

Thanks for you help,

adam

On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>
> Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>
> Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>
> Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>
> I have some ideas for all of the above.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>
> > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > for a reasonable price.
>
> > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
"locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
not unlock.

Thanks for you help,

adam

On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> Would you please define 'froze' to me.
>
> Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
>
> Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
>
> Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
>
> I have some ideas for all of the above.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> adam wrote:
>
> > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > for a reasonable price.
>
> > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Hmm, depending on the model year, sometimes you can buy sets of lock cores
pretty cheap from Autozone, Checker's, Carquest and those types of
aftermarket parts houses. Then you just take the door apart, push like
crazy on some rusted-up fingernail-busting clips, and replace them, just
like that. If your car is too old or the model is too obscure, you have to
go to the dealer and pay more. Maybe check with a local locksmith first.
Either way, I recommend just replacing all the locks at this time.

Sometimes you can spray stuff in there, like penetrating oil, stick the key
in, and gently work it loose. I don't recommend this, but if you have more
time then money...

Earle

"adam" <captaindentist@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165194796.298676.194640@73g2000cwn.googlegro ups.com...
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
>

Re: lock core seize
 

Hmm, depending on the model year, sometimes you can buy sets of lock cores
pretty cheap from Autozone, Checker's, Carquest and those types of
aftermarket parts houses. Then you just take the door apart, push like
crazy on some rusted-up fingernail-busting clips, and replace them, just
like that. If your car is too old or the model is too obscure, you have to
go to the dealer and pay more. Maybe check with a local locksmith first.
Either way, I recommend just replacing all the locks at this time.

Sometimes you can spray stuff in there, like penetrating oil, stick the key
in, and gently work it loose. I don't recommend this, but if you have more
time then money...

Earle

"adam" <captaindentist@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165194796.298676.194640@73g2000cwn.googlegro ups.com...
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
>

Re: lock core seize
 

Hmm, depending on the model year, sometimes you can buy sets of lock cores
pretty cheap from Autozone, Checker's, Carquest and those types of
aftermarket parts houses. Then you just take the door apart, push like
crazy on some rusted-up fingernail-busting clips, and replace them, just
like that. If your car is too old or the model is too obscure, you have to
go to the dealer and pay more. Maybe check with a local locksmith first.
Either way, I recommend just replacing all the locks at this time.

Sometimes you can spray stuff in there, like penetrating oil, stick the key
in, and gently work it loose. I don't recommend this, but if you have more
time then money...

Earle

"adam" <captaindentist@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1165194796.298676.194640@73g2000cwn.googlegro ups.com...
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement
sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks
>

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
> door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
> mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
> core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
> tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
> driver side will lock but not unlock.

A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....

Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
or had one cut from an old key.

Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
cut a new one for you.

You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
is the best stuff to use.

--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
> door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
> mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
> core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
> tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
> driver side will lock but not unlock.

A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....

Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
or had one cut from an old key.

Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
cut a new one for you.

You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
is the best stuff to use.

--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

adam wrote:
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
> door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
> mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
> core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
> tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
> driver side will lock but not unlock.

A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....

Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
or had one cut from an old key.

Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
cut a new one for you.

You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
is the best stuff to use.

--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

To add to Doug's comments: A good locksmith can take an old key, measure
it, and recut a new one to factory specs. Costs a bit more than just
cutting a key but not much. My local charges $10 to $15 for various
rekeying jobs.

I'd just pull out the old core (take off inner panel, unhook linkage,
bash out the spring clip), and the key to a good locksmith, you should
get a new core and a good key for reasonable $$

DougW wrote:

> adam wrote:
>
>>Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
>>door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
>>mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
>>core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
>>tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
>>driver side will lock but not unlock.
>
>
> A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
> in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
> and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
> Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
> they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....
>
> Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
> or had one cut from an old key.
>
> Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
> older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
> a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
> key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
> cut a new one for you.
>
> You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
> lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
> is the best stuff to use.
>

Re: lock core seize
 

To add to Doug's comments: A good locksmith can take an old key, measure
it, and recut a new one to factory specs. Costs a bit more than just
cutting a key but not much. My local charges $10 to $15 for various
rekeying jobs.

I'd just pull out the old core (take off inner panel, unhook linkage,
bash out the spring clip), and the key to a good locksmith, you should
get a new core and a good key for reasonable $$

DougW wrote:

> adam wrote:
>
>>Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
>>door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
>>mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
>>core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
>>tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
>>driver side will lock but not unlock.
>
>
> A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
> in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
> and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
> Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
> they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....
>
> Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
> or had one cut from an old key.
>
> Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
> older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
> a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
> key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
> cut a new one for you.
>
> You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
> lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
> is the best stuff to use.
>

Re: lock core seize
 

To add to Doug's comments: A good locksmith can take an old key, measure
it, and recut a new one to factory specs. Costs a bit more than just
cutting a key but not much. My local charges $10 to $15 for various
rekeying jobs.

I'd just pull out the old core (take off inner panel, unhook linkage,
bash out the spring clip), and the key to a good locksmith, you should
get a new core and a good key for reasonable $$

DougW wrote:

> adam wrote:
>
>>Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the
>>door panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking
>>mechanism from the inside work great. The problem is solely with the
>>core itself, the key just won't turn. The passenger side and the
>>tailgate are completly "locked" up in all weather conditions and the
>>driver side will lock but not unlock.
>
>
> A few things can go wrong with a core. Some are fixable but it depends
> in great part on how the core is constructed. Some just can't be repaired
> and must be replaced. If you do work on the core, do it on the ground.
> Why on the ground? Because when the springs and fiddly bits fall out
> they don't go very far. ;) But don't go there yet....
>
> Judging from what you say I suspect you either have a very old key
> or had one cut from an old key.
>
> Cores that are new (or infrequently used) will be more likely to reject an
> older key or a new key cut from that old key. It's always best to keep
> a master key and only make dupes from that. If you don't have a good
> key to make copies from, Jeep can take your VIN and look up the key then
> cut a new one for you.
>
> You can spray out the core with some TB cleaner. Cores should never be
> lubed with oil or WD-40, as it attracts and holds dust. Graphite powder
> is the best stuff to use.
>

Re: lock core seize
 

Thanks for the clarification.

I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.

Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.

Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.

They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Thanks for the clarification.

I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.

Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.

Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.

They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Thanks for the clarification.

I would first inspect the key for wear as mentioned. If you go to DC to
get a key cut, take lots of ID as well as the ownership. Unless they
know you they get picky about it.

Then I would go at it with penetrating oil and/or WD40. Penetrating oil
will do in an hour what WD40 takes 2 days to do. I would soak them like
crazy, then let them sit then soak them again and try working a 'spare'
key in and out and in and out to free up the pins or slides. Having the
door lay flat on the ground helps to get the oil everywhere needed
around the cylinder and top of the pins.

Once I finish doing that, I use carb or throttle body cleaner to get the
last of the crap out. They are best left dry, graphite powder can keep
them lubricated.

They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others have
mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

adam wrote:
>
> Ok, sorry I didn't give a more detailed description. I removed the door
> panel and degreased all the moving parts, so the locking mechanism from
> the inside work great. The problem is solely with the core itself, the
> key just won't turn. The passenger side and the tailgate are completly
> "locked" up in all weather conditions and the driver side will lock but
> not unlock.
>
> Thanks for you help,
>
> adam
>
> On Dec 3, 10:46 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > Would you please define 'froze' to me.
> >
> > Do you mean they just aren't working correctly?
> >
> > Or that they are physically frozen due to low temperatures?
> >
> > Or that they work fine wen warm and mess up when cold.
> >
> > I have some ideas for all of the above.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >
> > adam wrote:
> >
> > > My 88 wrangler has 3 lock core's froze. One will lock the door but,
> > > won't unlock. They lock from the door panel fine. Should I use a lock
> > > smith or does anyone know of an online store that sell replacement sets
> > > for a reasonable price.
> >
> > > thanks

Re: lock core seize
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)

It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)

Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.


--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)

It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)

Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.


--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

Mike Romain wrote:

> They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!

The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)

It's (for most cores)
1) key in lock core
2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
3) long pins into lock core
4) springs into lock core
5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)

Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
but without it the core will pop out in your hand.


--
DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

Thanks to All...This is a great forum!

Best,

Adam

On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

Thanks to All...This is a great forum!

Best,

Adam

On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW

Re: lock core seize
 

Thanks to All...This is a great forum!

Best,

Adam

On Dec 4, 10:55 am, "DougW" <post.repl...@invalid.address> wrote:
> Mike Romain wrote:
> > They 'can' be taken apart to free them up, but be careful as others
> > have mentioned. Opening the wrong type the wrong way puts a whole new
> > meaning on 'little parts flew everywhere'. LOL!The best part is when you have all the springs and pins and start
> to wonder exactly how the little buggers go back in. :)
>
> It's (for most cores)
> 1) key in lock core
> 2) cut pins into lock so they all sit flat
> 3) long pins into lock core
> 4) springs into lock core
> 5) backplate (being careful not to bend the springs)
>
> Some locks have an extra pin at the back. This is a
> core-removal pin. Normal keys won't touch this pin
> but without it the core will pop out in your hand.
>
> --
> DougW