The Leak Goes On...
05-29-2004, 12:17 AM
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
"Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
>
> Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
back
> brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
system
> will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil out
of
> seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
new
> and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
look
> very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank. When
> plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> journal.
> All I can think of at the moment.
> Steve g.
I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three other
journals.
Great feedback, thanks!
> "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
> the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
> head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
> and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
> back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> >
> >
>
>
05-29-2004, 12:18 AM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
No, that's one you triple check before buttoning it up. As I recall, it will
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
05-29-2004, 12:18 AM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
No, that's one you triple check before buttoning it up. As I recall, it will
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
05-29-2004, 12:18 AM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
No, that's one you triple check before buttoning it up. As I recall, it will
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
05-29-2004, 12:18 AM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
No, that's one you triple check before buttoning it up. As I recall, it will
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
only go one way, but, doesn't hurt to check.
"L.W. (ßill) ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:40B80625.829A96FE@***.net...
> Bummer! The block's half of the seal's not backwards, is it? I can
> see that's not possible in the cap: http://www.neow.org/rms1.html
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Jerry McG wrote:
> >
> > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
new.
> > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
traded
> > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
replace
> > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
it
> > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
around
> > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
time
> > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good as
the
> > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
immediately
> > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> >
> > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
Neither
> > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the cyl
head
> > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator plate
> > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > leaking.
> >
> > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
behind
> > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very easily,
and
> > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is fine.
I
> > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> >
> > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at the
back
> > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
05-29-2004, 03:35 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
i would definitely check the bearing cap then. i had to loosen 3 caps when
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
05-29-2004, 03:35 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
i would definitely check the bearing cap then. i had to loosen 3 caps when
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
05-29-2004, 03:35 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
i would definitely check the bearing cap then. i had to loosen 3 caps when
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
05-29-2004, 03:35 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: The Leak Goes On...
i would definitely check the bearing cap then. i had to loosen 3 caps when
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
i did mine too...
"Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
news:c992sg02av2@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Steve G" <NospamforSteve@Steve-Garner.com> wrote in message
> news:RfTtc.615218$Ig.574867@pd7tw2no...
> >
> > Given that it seems to be the seal, it goes away for a while when you
> > replace, I would do a couple of things. First I would plastigage that
> back
> > brg. Excessive clearance can result in excessive amounts of oil at the
> > seal. I would also check crankcase pressure. A poorly operating PCV
> system
> > will allow a positive pressure to build int he crankcase and blow oil
out
> of
> > seals and gaskets. In as much as this thing seems to have done it from
> new
> > and this is not a chronic problem known to all of these engines I would
> look
> > very carefully at the machining of the cap, the block and the crank.
When
> > plastigaging the brg look to see if the clearance is uniform across the
> > journal.
> > All I can think of at the moment.
> > Steve g.
>
> I've been a bit concerned that the upper half of the seal has been so easy
> to pull and replace. Others I've done required losening at least three
other
> journals.
>
> Great feedback, thanks!
>
> > "Jerry McG" <gmcgeorge.remove@frontier.net> wrote in message
> > news:c98r540s1l@enews3.newsguy.com...
> > > My '94 YJ has been a chronic leaker at the main seal ever since it was
> > new.
> > > The original owner had the main seal replaced at 10 & 20k miles, then
> > traded
> > > it off at 25k. I had it replaced at 28k, along with a new clutch to
> > replace
> > > the oil-soaked, chattering original. That seal made it maybe 7k before
> it
> > > started to drip, I finally had had enough and replaced it again at
> around
> > > 45k. By 52k it was dripping again, which I ignored until 63k, at which
> > time
> > > I replaced it yet again. Frankly, the one I pulled out looked as good
as
> > the
> > > new one I put in. The new one didn't waste any time dripping, it
> > immediately
> > > leaked as bad as the one I took out. ENOUGH!
> > >
> > > Ok, this much we know: The pan gasket isn't leaking, dry all around.
> > Neither
> > > is the valve cover gasket, it's as dry as a bone at the back of the
cyl
> > head
> > > and all around as well. The thing drips from behind the separator
plate
> > > between the eng and trans, and it is motor oil, not gear lube that's
> > > leaking.
> > >
> > > When I pulled the lower rear bearing half it showed signs of seepage
> > behind
> > > the seal. When I put the new one back in the upper slid in very
easily,
> > and
> > > the lower half fit perfectly. The sealing surface on the crank is
fine.
> I
> > > sealed the bearing cap mating surface edges with high temp RTV per the
> > > manual. All went together easily, torqued up fine, etc.
> > >
> > > The only idea I have left is that the pressed in oil galley plug at
the
> > back
> > > of the block may be seeping, but to know for sure I'd have to pull the
> > > trans. Otherwise, I'm out of ideas. HELP!!!!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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