Hi Rob,
Next time use one hand to hold the nozzle straight on the zerk
fitting using the ground or that forearm to hold/push against the grease
gun, then work the nozzle back and forth a couple of time to release the
locking pressure before you pull it apart. Now you too may be a grease
monkey.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> hey twaldron,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions on getting the zerk out. I wouldn't usually
> throw my arms up this quickly, but I'm a bit disgusted that the damn
> thing sheered off this soon after buying the arms. I've only had them
> on the rig about three months; this was only the second time I've
> greased them (the first being when I originally installed them).
>
> I haven't been overly displeased in any particular way with the
> control arms besides the zerk breaking; I think it just has to do with
> how new the arms are in relationship to already having a problem,
> y'know? I will say it would be nice if there was a good, strong
> adjustable/flexible arm out there that could be adjusted WITHOUT
> taking one end out of its mounting bracket (my brackets are bent up
> enough that taking them and putting them back in the brackets is QUITE
> a chore).
>
> As for shock extensions, as I stated, I'm doing the front. I've
> already got the tera's on the rear (and I've got shock extensions on
> the rear as well...I was tired of denting my cans). But in the front,
> I noticed there's not a lot of clearance between the metal supporting
> the bottom of the front shock and the control arm. I read in one
> review of installing adjustable straight arms in the front that
> someone had to put on some sort of extension, so I was curious about
> that. I figure I'd rather just grind off some of the excess metal on
> the shock mount, though, if that will be sufficient. I don't want to
> put extension brackets on those control arms if I can help it; they're
> under a lot of stress and torque, and I would think such an extension
> would just weaken their connection(s).
>
> I will check into the RE control arms as well. As stated in the other
> reply to my post, though, I've heard wishy-washy reviews of the stuff
> from rusty's, so I'm probably not going to go that way. Maybe I'll
> change it now and say I'm between JKS, RE, and Tera. (Also, I too have
> the JKS discos, and do like them a lot, so that does give me
> confidence their arms may be good. I'm just hoping someone on here
> actually HAS the JKS lower arms and can give a personal review of
> their performance in particular.)
>
> /Bob
> Boy, I type a lot. Sorry for the long posts! ;-)
>
> twaldron <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message news:<Jw4Xb.735$466.338637931@newssvr11.news.prodi gy.com>...
> <snip!>

 

Hi Rob,
Next time use one hand to hold the nozzle straight on the zerk
fitting using the ground or that forearm to hold/push against the grease
gun, then work the nozzle back and forth a couple of time to release the
locking pressure before you pull it apart. Now you too may be a grease
monkey.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> hey twaldron,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions on getting the zerk out. I wouldn't usually
> throw my arms up this quickly, but I'm a bit disgusted that the damn
> thing sheered off this soon after buying the arms. I've only had them
> on the rig about three months; this was only the second time I've
> greased them (the first being when I originally installed them).
>
> I haven't been overly displeased in any particular way with the
> control arms besides the zerk breaking; I think it just has to do with
> how new the arms are in relationship to already having a problem,
> y'know? I will say it would be nice if there was a good, strong
> adjustable/flexible arm out there that could be adjusted WITHOUT
> taking one end out of its mounting bracket (my brackets are bent up
> enough that taking them and putting them back in the brackets is QUITE
> a chore).
>
> As for shock extensions, as I stated, I'm doing the front. I've
> already got the tera's on the rear (and I've got shock extensions on
> the rear as well...I was tired of denting my cans). But in the front,
> I noticed there's not a lot of clearance between the metal supporting
> the bottom of the front shock and the control arm. I read in one
> review of installing adjustable straight arms in the front that
> someone had to put on some sort of extension, so I was curious about
> that. I figure I'd rather just grind off some of the excess metal on
> the shock mount, though, if that will be sufficient. I don't want to
> put extension brackets on those control arms if I can help it; they're
> under a lot of stress and torque, and I would think such an extension
> would just weaken their connection(s).
>
> I will check into the RE control arms as well. As stated in the other
> reply to my post, though, I've heard wishy-washy reviews of the stuff
> from rusty's, so I'm probably not going to go that way. Maybe I'll
> change it now and say I'm between JKS, RE, and Tera. (Also, I too have
> the JKS discos, and do like them a lot, so that does give me
> confidence their arms may be good. I'm just hoping someone on here
> actually HAS the JKS lower arms and can give a personal review of
> their performance in particular.)
>
> /Bob
> Boy, I type a lot. Sorry for the long posts! ;-)
>
> twaldron <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message news:<Jw4Xb.735$466.338637931@newssvr11.news.prodi gy.com>...
> <snip!>

 

Hi Rob,
Next time use one hand to hold the nozzle straight on the zerk
fitting using the ground or that forearm to hold/push against the grease
gun, then work the nozzle back and forth a couple of time to release the
locking pressure before you pull it apart. Now you too may be a grease
monkey.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/

Bob wrote:
>
> hey twaldron,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions on getting the zerk out. I wouldn't usually
> throw my arms up this quickly, but I'm a bit disgusted that the damn
> thing sheered off this soon after buying the arms. I've only had them
> on the rig about three months; this was only the second time I've
> greased them (the first being when I originally installed them).
>
> I haven't been overly displeased in any particular way with the
> control arms besides the zerk breaking; I think it just has to do with
> how new the arms are in relationship to already having a problem,
> y'know? I will say it would be nice if there was a good, strong
> adjustable/flexible arm out there that could be adjusted WITHOUT
> taking one end out of its mounting bracket (my brackets are bent up
> enough that taking them and putting them back in the brackets is QUITE
> a chore).
>
> As for shock extensions, as I stated, I'm doing the front. I've
> already got the tera's on the rear (and I've got shock extensions on
> the rear as well...I was tired of denting my cans). But in the front,
> I noticed there's not a lot of clearance between the metal supporting
> the bottom of the front shock and the control arm. I read in one
> review of installing adjustable straight arms in the front that
> someone had to put on some sort of extension, so I was curious about
> that. I figure I'd rather just grind off some of the excess metal on
> the shock mount, though, if that will be sufficient. I don't want to
> put extension brackets on those control arms if I can help it; they're
> under a lot of stress and torque, and I would think such an extension
> would just weaken their connection(s).
>
> I will check into the RE control arms as well. As stated in the other
> reply to my post, though, I've heard wishy-washy reviews of the stuff
> from rusty's, so I'm probably not going to go that way. Maybe I'll
> change it now and say I'm between JKS, RE, and Tera. (Also, I too have
> the JKS discos, and do like them a lot, so that does give me
> confidence their arms may be good. I'm just hoping someone on here
> actually HAS the JKS lower arms and can give a personal review of
> their performance in particular.)
>
> /Bob
> Boy, I type a lot. Sorry for the long posts! ;-)
>
> twaldron <thomas@OBVIOUSrubicons.com> wrote in message news:<Jw4Xb.735$466.338637931@newssvr11.news.prodi gy.com>...
> <snip!>

 

Bob wrote:

> hey twaldron,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions on getting the zerk out. I wouldn't usually
> throw my arms up this quickly, but I'm a bit disgusted that the damn
> thing sheered off this soon after buying the arms. I've only had them
> on the rig about three months; this was only the second time I've
> greased them (the first being when I originally installed them).
>
> I haven't been overly displeased in any particular way with the
> control arms besides the zerk breaking; I think it just has to do with
> how new the arms are in relationship to already having a problem,
> y'know?

Ok, I never had any problems with my Tera arms so I was curious. The
metal in those zerks isn't too strong, so overtightening them can shear
them, as well as any lateral stress. Tera just uses standard zerks, so
you'll find the same zerks on everyone's arms. Also, you should mount
them so the zerks are topside so no rocks, mud can shear them.

I will say it would be nice if there was a good, strong
> adjustable/flexible arm out there that could be adjusted WITHOUT
> taking one end out of its mounting bracket (my brackets are bent up
> enough that taking them and putting them back in the brackets is QUITE
> a chore).

Heh, no arms are adjusted that way that I know of. :) If you are
bending the control arm brackets removing/installing the control arms,
you might look at what you are doing a little closer. If your axles are
aligned properly, your arms should slip into the brackets fairly easily.
There should NOT be any bending of ANYTHING.

>
> As for shock extensions, as I stated, I'm doing the front. I've
> already got the tera's on the rear (and I've got shock extensions on
> the rear as well...I was tired of denting my cans). But in the front,
> I noticed there's not a lot of clearance between the metal supporting
> the bottom of the front shock and the control arm. I read in one
> review of installing adjustable straight arms in the front that
> someone had to put on some sort of extension, so I was curious about
> that. I figure I'd rather just grind off some of the excess metal on
> the shock mount, though, if that will be sufficient. I don't want to
> put extension brackets on those control arms if I can help it; they're
> under a lot of stress and torque, and I would think such an extension
> would just weaken their connection(s).

Sorry for being dense here, but I don't understand your problem. The
shock and control arms shouldn't come into contact. We ARE talking TJ
here, right?

>
> I will check into the RE control arms as well. As stated in the other
> reply to my post, though, I've heard wishy-washy reviews of the stuff
> from rusty's, so I'm probably not going to go that way. Maybe I'll
> change it now and say I'm between JKS, RE, and Tera. (Also, I too have
> the JKS discos, and do like them a lot, so that does give me
> confidence their arms may be good. I'm just hoping someone on here
> actually HAS the JKS lower arms and can give a personal review of
> their performance in particular.)

Yes, check out the REs, very nice arms. As far as discos, I like the
Teraflex the best of all of them, but I know the JKSs are very popular too.


--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Bob wrote:

> hey twaldron,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions on getting the zerk out. I wouldn't usually
> throw my arms up this quickly, but I'm a bit disgusted that the damn
> thing sheered off this soon after buying the arms. I've only had them
> on the rig about three months; this was only the second time I've
> greased them (the first being when I originally installed them).
>
> I haven't been overly displeased in any particular way with the
> control arms besides the zerk breaking; I think it just has to do with
> how new the arms are in relationship to already having a problem,
> y'know?

Ok, I never had any problems with my Tera arms so I was curious. The
metal in those zerks isn't too strong, so overtightening them can shear
them, as well as any lateral stress. Tera just uses standard zerks, so
you'll find the same zerks on everyone's arms. Also, you should mount
them so the zerks are topside so no rocks, mud can shear them.

I will say it would be nice if there was a good, strong
> adjustable/flexible arm out there that could be adjusted WITHOUT
> taking one end out of its mounting bracket (my brackets are bent up
> enough that taking them and putting them back in the brackets is QUITE
> a chore).

Heh, no arms are adjusted that way that I know of. :) If you are
bending the control arm brackets removing/installing the control arms,
you might look at what you are doing a little closer. If your axles are
aligned properly, your arms should slip into the brackets fairly easily.
There should NOT be any bending of ANYTHING.

>
> As for shock extensions, as I stated, I'm doing the front. I've
> already got the tera's on the rear (and I've got shock extensions on
> the rear as well...I was tired of denting my cans). But in the front,
> I noticed there's not a lot of clearance between the metal supporting
> the bottom of the front shock and the control arm. I read in one
> review of installing adjustable straight arms in the front that
> someone had to put on some sort of extension, so I was curious about
> that. I figure I'd rather just grind off some of the excess metal on
> the shock mount, though, if that will be sufficient. I don't want to
> put extension brackets on those control arms if I can help it; they're
> under a lot of stress and torque, and I would think such an extension
> would just weaken their connection(s).

Sorry for being dense here, but I don't understand your problem. The
shock and control arms shouldn't come into contact. We ARE talking TJ
here, right?

>
> I will check into the RE control arms as well. As stated in the other
> reply to my post, though, I've heard wishy-washy reviews of the stuff
> from rusty's, so I'm probably not going to go that way. Maybe I'll
> change it now and say I'm between JKS, RE, and Tera. (Also, I too have
> the JKS discos, and do like them a lot, so that does give me
> confidence their arms may be good. I'm just hoping someone on here
> actually HAS the JKS lower arms and can give a personal review of
> their performance in particular.)

Yes, check out the REs, very nice arms. As far as discos, I like the
Teraflex the best of all of them, but I know the JKSs are very popular too.


--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Bob wrote:

> hey twaldron,
>
> Thanks for the suggestions on getting the zerk out. I wouldn't usually
> throw my arms up this quickly, but I'm a bit disgusted that the damn
> thing sheered off this soon after buying the arms. I've only had them
> on the rig about three months; this was only the second time I've
> greased them (the first being when I originally installed them).
>
> I haven't been overly displeased in any particular way with the
> control arms besides the zerk breaking; I think it just has to do with
> how new the arms are in relationship to already having a problem,
> y'know?

Ok, I never had any problems with my Tera arms so I was curious. The
metal in those zerks isn't too strong, so overtightening them can shear
them, as well as any lateral stress. Tera just uses standard zerks, so
you'll find the same zerks on everyone's arms. Also, you should mount
them so the zerks are topside so no rocks, mud can shear them.

I will say it would be nice if there was a good, strong
> adjustable/flexible arm out there that could be adjusted WITHOUT
> taking one end out of its mounting bracket (my brackets are bent up
> enough that taking them and putting them back in the brackets is QUITE
> a chore).

Heh, no arms are adjusted that way that I know of. :) If you are
bending the control arm brackets removing/installing the control arms,
you might look at what you are doing a little closer. If your axles are
aligned properly, your arms should slip into the brackets fairly easily.
There should NOT be any bending of ANYTHING.

>
> As for shock extensions, as I stated, I'm doing the front. I've
> already got the tera's on the rear (and I've got shock extensions on
> the rear as well...I was tired of denting my cans). But in the front,
> I noticed there's not a lot of clearance between the metal supporting
> the bottom of the front shock and the control arm. I read in one
> review of installing adjustable straight arms in the front that
> someone had to put on some sort of extension, so I was curious about
> that. I figure I'd rather just grind off some of the excess metal on
> the shock mount, though, if that will be sufficient. I don't want to
> put extension brackets on those control arms if I can help it; they're
> under a lot of stress and torque, and I would think such an extension
> would just weaken their connection(s).

Sorry for being dense here, but I don't understand your problem. The
shock and control arms shouldn't come into contact. We ARE talking TJ
here, right?

>
> I will check into the RE control arms as well. As stated in the other
> reply to my post, though, I've heard wishy-washy reviews of the stuff
> from rusty's, so I'm probably not going to go that way. Maybe I'll
> change it now and say I'm between JKS, RE, and Tera. (Also, I too have
> the JKS discos, and do like them a lot, so that does give me
> confidence their arms may be good. I'm just hoping someone on here
> actually HAS the JKS lower arms and can give a personal review of
> their performance in particular.)

Yes, check out the REs, very nice arms. As far as discos, I like the
Teraflex the best of all of them, but I know the JKSs are very popular too.


--
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: probably from g. p. (abbreviation of general purpose)
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________

 

Ok, I'll make my responses shorter this time ;-)

> Ok, I never had any problems with my Tera arms so I was curious. The
> metal in those zerks isn't too strong, so overtightening them can shear
> them, as well as any lateral stress. Tera just uses standard zerks, so
> you'll find the same zerks on everyone's arms. Also, you should mount
> them so the zerks are topside so no rocks, mud can shear them.

Yup, I mounted them zerk side up, with that exact reasoning in mind.

> Heh, no arms are adjusted that way that I know of. :) If you are
> bending the control arm brackets removing/installing the control arms,
> you might look at what you are doing a little closer. If your axles are
> aligned properly, your arms should slip into the brackets fairly easily.
> There should NOT be any bending of ANYTHING.

I'm not bending anything putting the control arms in and taking them
out. My mounts are just bent from scraping rocks, and are no longer
aligned with each other very well (i.e. the two tabs that the end of
the control arm slides between aren't perfectly straight, and don't
provide a perfectly parallel, straight shot for the control arm end to
slide up between them).

> Sorry for being dense here, but I don't understand your problem. The
> shock and control arms shouldn't come into contact. We ARE talking TJ
> here, right?

Ok, I'm not talkikng about the SHOCK itself hitting the control arms.
But, on (yes, this is the TJ we're talking about...or at least MY TJ)
the shock is mounted in a metal "plate" (for lack of a better term)
that is welded onto the axle, and hangs back BEHIND the axle (behind
the spring mount). This plate has a rolled-down edge, and this
rolled-down edge doesn't look to have that much clearance between it
and the middle of the control arm. And that's with my angled procomp
control arms that add clearance due to the angle bend in the middle of
the arm. Since I have a short-arm kit, and I'm looking to put an
adjustable STRAIGHT, non-angled arm in the front, the middle of the
arm will be passing that much closer to the rolled edge of the metal
plate the shock is mounted to. If I get full droop on the axle, I'm
thinking it is possible that rolled edge might come in contact with
the control arm.

> Yes, check out the REs, very nice arms. As far as discos, I like the
> Teraflex the best of all of them, but I know the JKSs are very popular too.

Well, based on the fact my tera arms are working fine, and people here
seem to like the RE arms, I'm narrowing myself down to probably one of
these two, since they are significantly ($50 or more) cheaper than the
JKS arms. And no one seems to have the JKS arms or any experience with
them. As long as clearance isn't an issue, I'll probably just end up
going with the tera arms, if nothing else, just to maintain
consistency of like components.

Thanks for your help and comments.

/Bob

1997 TJ Sahara
4" Short-Arm Lift
33" BFG AT KOs

 

Ok, I'll make my responses shorter this time ;-)

> Ok, I never had any problems with my Tera arms so I was curious. The
> metal in those zerks isn't too strong, so overtightening them can shear
> them, as well as any lateral stress. Tera just uses standard zerks, so
> you'll find the same zerks on everyone's arms. Also, you should mount
> them so the zerks are topside so no rocks, mud can shear them.

Yup, I mounted them zerk side up, with that exact reasoning in mind.

> Heh, no arms are adjusted that way that I know of. :) If you are
> bending the control arm brackets removing/installing the control arms,
> you might look at what you are doing a little closer. If your axles are
> aligned properly, your arms should slip into the brackets fairly easily.
> There should NOT be any bending of ANYTHING.

I'm not bending anything putting the control arms in and taking them
out. My mounts are just bent from scraping rocks, and are no longer
aligned with each other very well (i.e. the two tabs that the end of
the control arm slides between aren't perfectly straight, and don't
provide a perfectly parallel, straight shot for the control arm end to
slide up between them).

> Sorry for being dense here, but I don't understand your problem. The
> shock and control arms shouldn't come into contact. We ARE talking TJ
> here, right?

Ok, I'm not talkikng about the SHOCK itself hitting the control arms.
But, on (yes, this is the TJ we're talking about...or at least MY TJ)
the shock is mounted in a metal "plate" (for lack of a better term)
that is welded onto the axle, and hangs back BEHIND the axle (behind
the spring mount). This plate has a rolled-down edge, and this
rolled-down edge doesn't look to have that much clearance between it
and the middle of the control arm. And that's with my angled procomp
control arms that add clearance due to the angle bend in the middle of
the arm. Since I have a short-arm kit, and I'm looking to put an
adjustable STRAIGHT, non-angled arm in the front, the middle of the
arm will be passing that much closer to the rolled edge of the metal
plate the shock is mounted to. If I get full droop on the axle, I'm
thinking it is possible that rolled edge might come in contact with
the control arm.

> Yes, check out the REs, very nice arms. As far as discos, I like the
> Teraflex the best of all of them, but I know the JKSs are very popular too.

Well, based on the fact my tera arms are working fine, and people here
seem to like the RE arms, I'm narrowing myself down to probably one of
these two, since they are significantly ($50 or more) cheaper than the
JKS arms. And no one seems to have the JKS arms or any experience with
them. As long as clearance isn't an issue, I'll probably just end up
going with the tera arms, if nothing else, just to maintain
consistency of like components.

Thanks for your help and comments.

/Bob

1997 TJ Sahara
4" Short-Arm Lift
33" BFG AT KOs

 

Ok, I'll make my responses shorter this time ;-)

> Ok, I never had any problems with my Tera arms so I was curious. The
> metal in those zerks isn't too strong, so overtightening them can shear
> them, as well as any lateral stress. Tera just uses standard zerks, so
> you'll find the same zerks on everyone's arms. Also, you should mount
> them so the zerks are topside so no rocks, mud can shear them.

Yup, I mounted them zerk side up, with that exact reasoning in mind.

> Heh, no arms are adjusted that way that I know of. :) If you are
> bending the control arm brackets removing/installing the control arms,
> you might look at what you are doing a little closer. If your axles are
> aligned properly, your arms should slip into the brackets fairly easily.
> There should NOT be any bending of ANYTHING.

I'm not bending anything putting the control arms in and taking them
out. My mounts are just bent from scraping rocks, and are no longer
aligned with each other very well (i.e. the two tabs that the end of
the control arm slides between aren't perfectly straight, and don't
provide a perfectly parallel, straight shot for the control arm end to
slide up between them).

> Sorry for being dense here, but I don't understand your problem. The
> shock and control arms shouldn't come into contact. We ARE talking TJ
> here, right?

Ok, I'm not talkikng about the SHOCK itself hitting the control arms.
But, on (yes, this is the TJ we're talking about...or at least MY TJ)
the shock is mounted in a metal "plate" (for lack of a better term)
that is welded onto the axle, and hangs back BEHIND the axle (behind
the spring mount). This plate has a rolled-down edge, and this
rolled-down edge doesn't look to have that much clearance between it
and the middle of the control arm. And that's with my angled procomp
control arms that add clearance due to the angle bend in the middle of
the arm. Since I have a short-arm kit, and I'm looking to put an
adjustable STRAIGHT, non-angled arm in the front, the middle of the
arm will be passing that much closer to the rolled edge of the metal
plate the shock is mounted to. If I get full droop on the axle, I'm
thinking it is possible that rolled edge might come in contact with
the control arm.

> Yes, check out the REs, very nice arms. As far as discos, I like the
> Teraflex the best of all of them, but I know the JKSs are very popular too.

Well, based on the fact my tera arms are working fine, and people here
seem to like the RE arms, I'm narrowing myself down to probably one of
these two, since they are significantly ($50 or more) cheaper than the
JKS arms. And no one seems to have the JKS arms or any experience with
them. As long as clearance isn't an issue, I'll probably just end up
going with the tera arms, if nothing else, just to maintain
consistency of like components.

Thanks for your help and comments.

/Bob

1997 TJ Sahara
4" Short-Arm Lift
33" BFG AT KOs