Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.

Lee Ayrton wrote:

> The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> like Home Depot.
>
>
> Lon wrote:
>
>> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
>> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
>> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
>>
>> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
>> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
>> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
>> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
>> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
>> engine block.
>>
>>
>> RoyJ proclaimed:
>>
>>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
>>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
>>>
>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
>>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
>>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
>>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
>>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
>>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
>>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
>>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
>>>> while.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> David
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> c wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
>>>>> said,
>>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
>>>>>
>>>>> Chris
>>>>>
>>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>>
>>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
>>>>>> battery
>>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
>>>>>> goes
>>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
>>>>>> feel the
>>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
>>>>>> cable. The
>>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
>>>>>> engine
>>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The car:
>>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
>>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
>>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
>>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
>>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
>>>>>>> the charger anyway.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
>>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
>>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
>>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> David
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>

 

Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.

Lee Ayrton wrote:

> The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> like Home Depot.
>
>
> Lon wrote:
>
>> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
>> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
>> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
>>
>> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
>> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
>> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
>> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
>> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
>> engine block.
>>
>>
>> RoyJ proclaimed:
>>
>>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
>>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
>>>
>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
>>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
>>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
>>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
>>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
>>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
>>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
>>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
>>>> while.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> David
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> c wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
>>>>> said,
>>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
>>>>>
>>>>> Chris
>>>>>
>>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>>
>>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
>>>>>> battery
>>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
>>>>>> goes
>>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
>>>>>> feel the
>>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
>>>>>> cable. The
>>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
>>>>>> engine
>>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The car:
>>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
>>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
>>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
>>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
>>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
>>>>>>> the charger anyway.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
>>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
>>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
>>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> David
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>

 

Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.

Lee Ayrton wrote:

> The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> like Home Depot.
>
>
> Lon wrote:
>
>> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
>> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
>> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
>>
>> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
>> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
>> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
>> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
>> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
>> engine block.
>>
>>
>> RoyJ proclaimed:
>>
>>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
>>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
>>>
>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
>>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
>>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
>>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
>>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
>>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
>>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
>>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
>>>> while.
>>>>
>>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> David
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> c wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
>>>>> said,
>>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
>>>>>
>>>>> Chris
>>>>>
>>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
>>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
>>>>>
>>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
>>>>>> battery
>>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
>>>>>> goes
>>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
>>>>>> feel the
>>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
>>>>>> cable. The
>>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
>>>>>> engine
>>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The car:
>>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
>>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
>>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
>>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
>>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
>>>>>>> the charger anyway.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
>>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
>>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
>>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>> David
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>

 

That is a very good deal on that VM. The verdict is in and thanks for
all the suggestions. I tried a number of things and was never able to
get the car running so I through in the towel and called the dealer and
had it towed there. It turned out the battery was failing on a load
test for them and one of the cables had paint on it which resulted in
ineffective contact. They where dumbfounded by the paint. I had
looked for such things before calling them and found none. But that
was enough to get it back in the running category, and they tested the
alternator which tested at charging 13.5 volts and they could not get
the starter to fail.

Thanks,
David


RoyJ wrote:
> Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
> I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> > The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> > the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> > ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> > like Home Depot.
> >
> >
> > Lon wrote:
> >
> >> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
> >> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
> >> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
> >>
> >> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
> >> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
> >> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
> >> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
> >> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
> >> engine block.
> >>
> >>
> >> RoyJ proclaimed:
> >>
> >>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
> >>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
> >>>
> >>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
> >>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
> >>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
> >>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
> >>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
> >>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
> >>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
> >>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
> >>>> while.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>> David
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> c wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
> >>>>> said,
> >>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Chris
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
> >>>>>> battery
> >>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
> >>>>>> goes
> >>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
> >>>>>> feel the
> >>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
> >>>>>> cable. The
> >>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
> >>>>>> engine
> >>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The car:
> >>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
> >>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
> >>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
> >>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
> >>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
> >>>>>>> the charger anyway.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
> >>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
> >>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
> >>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>>> David
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >
> >

 

That is a very good deal on that VM. The verdict is in and thanks for
all the suggestions. I tried a number of things and was never able to
get the car running so I through in the towel and called the dealer and
had it towed there. It turned out the battery was failing on a load
test for them and one of the cables had paint on it which resulted in
ineffective contact. They where dumbfounded by the paint. I had
looked for such things before calling them and found none. But that
was enough to get it back in the running category, and they tested the
alternator which tested at charging 13.5 volts and they could not get
the starter to fail.

Thanks,
David


RoyJ wrote:
> Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
> I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> > The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> > the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> > ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> > like Home Depot.
> >
> >
> > Lon wrote:
> >
> >> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
> >> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
> >> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
> >>
> >> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
> >> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
> >> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
> >> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
> >> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
> >> engine block.
> >>
> >>
> >> RoyJ proclaimed:
> >>
> >>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
> >>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
> >>>
> >>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
> >>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
> >>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
> >>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
> >>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
> >>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
> >>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
> >>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
> >>>> while.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>> David
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> c wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
> >>>>> said,
> >>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Chris
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
> >>>>>> battery
> >>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
> >>>>>> goes
> >>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
> >>>>>> feel the
> >>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
> >>>>>> cable. The
> >>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
> >>>>>> engine
> >>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The car:
> >>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
> >>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
> >>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
> >>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
> >>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
> >>>>>>> the charger anyway.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
> >>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
> >>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
> >>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>>> David
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >
> >

 

That is a very good deal on that VM. The verdict is in and thanks for
all the suggestions. I tried a number of things and was never able to
get the car running so I through in the towel and called the dealer and
had it towed there. It turned out the battery was failing on a load
test for them and one of the cables had paint on it which resulted in
ineffective contact. They where dumbfounded by the paint. I had
looked for such things before calling them and found none. But that
was enough to get it back in the running category, and they tested the
alternator which tested at charging 13.5 volts and they could not get
the starter to fail.

Thanks,
David


RoyJ wrote:
> Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
> I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> > The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> > the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> > ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> > like Home Depot.
> >
> >
> > Lon wrote:
> >
> >> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
> >> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
> >> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
> >>
> >> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
> >> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
> >> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
> >> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
> >> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
> >> engine block.
> >>
> >>
> >> RoyJ proclaimed:
> >>
> >>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
> >>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
> >>>
> >>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
> >>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
> >>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
> >>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
> >>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
> >>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
> >>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
> >>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
> >>>> while.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>> David
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> c wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
> >>>>> said,
> >>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Chris
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
> >>>>>> battery
> >>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
> >>>>>> goes
> >>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
> >>>>>> feel the
> >>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
> >>>>>> cable. The
> >>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
> >>>>>> engine
> >>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The car:
> >>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
> >>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
> >>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
> >>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
> >>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
> >>>>>>> the charger anyway.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
> >>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
> >>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
> >>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>>> David
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >
> >

 

That is a very good deal on that VM. The verdict is in and thanks for
all the suggestions. I tried a number of things and was never able to
get the car running so I through in the towel and called the dealer and
had it towed there. It turned out the battery was failing on a load
test for them and one of the cables had paint on it which resulted in
ineffective contact. They where dumbfounded by the paint. I had
looked for such things before calling them and found none. But that
was enough to get it back in the running category, and they tested the
alternator which tested at charging 13.5 volts and they could not get
the starter to fail.

Thanks,
David


RoyJ wrote:
> Try Harbor Freight for $2.99
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
> I have one, it's a decent meter for $20. It's a steal at $3.
>
> Lee Ayrton wrote:
>
> > The Rat Shack credit card-sized DVOMs aren't cheap anymore, they changed
> > the design and the last one I bought was someplace north of $35. Cheap
> > ($20) DVOMs can be found in the electrical department at big box stores
> > like Home Depot.
> >
> >
> > Lon wrote:
> >
> >> Pick up a cheap and small RatShack digital voltmeter and check for
> >> voltage drop where there shouldn't be any. Your battery should be at
> >> least 12.4 volts when disconnected, and shouldn't drop when connected.
> >>
> >> Quick check would be from engine to that ground by the battery on the
> >> fender. A tenth of a volt while cranking would be the most. Could be
> >> something loose or corroded to crud under the power distribution
> >> center as well... if you have good voltage and no drop when measured
> >> at the starter solenoid stud to battery ground, alternator ground, and
> >> engine block.
> >>
> >>
> >> RoyJ proclaimed:
> >>
> >>> Check to see if you have headlights when you have the charger/boost
> >>> on the battery terminals. No lights = bad cable.
> >>>
> >>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Well, it did this same thing in November. I thought it was the battery
> >>>> so I replaced that, and the connectors on the battery cables at the
> >>>> battery. At that time the battery was showing 50% charge on the
> >>>> charger gage. This battery is showing 100% on the charger gage and
> >>>> charging seems to have no affect. Last time the car was jump off
> >>>> capable, which is how my wife got home with it. This time that does
> >>>> not seem to bring it back to life. The only thing that seems to do
> >>>> that is to disconnect the battery and reconnect after letting it set a
> >>>> while.
> >>>>
> >>>> I am thinking cables at this point, but I am open to what people think,
> >>>> Thanks,
> >>>> David
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> c wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> It could also just be a battery that has gone bad too, but like Roy
> >>>>> said,
> >>>>> check the battery cables and connections first.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Chris
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "RoyJ" <spamless@microsoft.net> wrote in message
> >>>>> news:FOWrg.5132$ye3.4573@newsread1.news.pas.earthl ink.net...
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> The 'click and bam' sounds like you lost one of the connections on
> >>>>>> the
> >>>>>> main cables, quite common. Trace out the positive and negative
> >>>>>> battery
> >>>>>> cables, look for one with a loose fit at the crimp where the cable
> >>>>>> goes
> >>>>>> into the battery clamp or lug. If you can get some power going,
> >>>>>> feel the
> >>>>>> cable ends (carefully!). When you find a hot one, replace that
> >>>>>> cable. The
> >>>>>> first one I'd look at is the ground cable where it attaches to the
> >>>>>> engine
> >>>>>> block, it takes the most vibration.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> quincy451@yahoo.com wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> The car:
> >>>>>>> a 97 Jeep Grande Cheerokee Larado 2 WD inline 6 cyclinder.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Car has been running fine until today. I completed a short trip,
> >>>>>>> and got home. Then I went to make another short trip. And
> >>>>>>> I turn the key on to start the car and I hear a click and bam the
> >>>>>>> entire car is dead. No power anywhere.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I charged the battery to no avail. The jump setting from the
> >>>>>>> battery charger was a no go. It showed good voltage on
> >>>>>>> the charger anyway.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I disconnected the battery and left it like that for a while. Then
> >>>>>>> I reconnected the cables. At that point the lights where back.
> >>>>>>> But try and start it and everything is dead again.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Something when I go to start it is killing everything. What might
> >>>>>>> it be??? Any ideas???
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>>> David
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >
> >