Rusted

That is my guess. The accelerator pump gives the carb a little extra squirt
of gas when you accelerate quickly. When the engine is turned off you can
hear / see it squirt as you pump the pedal. It is also adjustable if you
need to have it provide more fuel. Another idea is fuel filter or fuel
pump.


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:42655D18.8C97B848@***.net...
> Then the accelerator pump doesn't work in either.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Chris Hill wrote:
>>
>> Also I failed to mention that I had the carb rebuilt, and it still
>> happened, and then I went out and bought a brand new carb, and it still
>> happened.

Rusted

That is my guess. The accelerator pump gives the carb a little extra squirt
of gas when you accelerate quickly. When the engine is turned off you can
hear / see it squirt as you pump the pedal. It is also adjustable if you
need to have it provide more fuel. Another idea is fuel filter or fuel
pump.


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:42655D18.8C97B848@***.net...
> Then the accelerator pump doesn't work in either.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Chris Hill wrote:
>>
>> Also I failed to mention that I had the carb rebuilt, and it still
>> happened, and then I went out and bought a brand new carb, and it still
>> happened.

Rusted

That is my guess. The accelerator pump gives the carb a little extra squirt
of gas when you accelerate quickly. When the engine is turned off you can
hear / see it squirt as you pump the pedal. It is also adjustable if you
need to have it provide more fuel. Another idea is fuel filter or fuel
pump.


"L.W. ("ßill") ------ III" <----------@***.net> wrote in message
news:42655D18.8C97B848@***.net...
> Then the accelerator pump doesn't work in either.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Chris Hill wrote:
>>
>> Also I failed to mention that I had the carb rebuilt, and it still
>> happened, and then I went out and bought a brand new carb, and it still
>> happened.

Mike Romain

I would first unplug and block with a bolt, the EGR line to see what
happens.

A dirty gas filter can cause that, especially if it isn't in right side
up. It has 2 outlets, the center one goes to the carb, the 'top' one
goes to the return line. The return needs to be up top or gas can go
back to the tank too easy and can syphon empty causing long cold starts.

Did you port the timing advance? I would use a light to see how the
advance works while revving it. Sometimes folks forget to oil the felt
pad under the rotor that keeps the timing advance plate moving and it
seizes.

How about gas octane? Too much alcohol in the gas will make them run
like crap.

Could the carb base plate have gotten flipped so you don't get manifold
vacuum routed up into the carb like it is supposed to? The cut outs
taper out and up to the carb. Just a thought, have seen that one
before.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Chris Hill wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I have an 84 CJ7 w/ 258 Carter BBD and T-4. It has the TFI
> upgrade and the Nutter bypass. The motor runs very well at idle and at
> constant rpm, but when I accelerate it bogs / stalls until the rpms
> finally catch up w/ it then it runs great. I can put the pedal to the
> floor (In any gear) and slowly let the pedal back up to about 1/2 and
> the motor seems to catch back up.
>
> I was wondering what tests I can perform to see if my problem lies
> within the fuel or the spark? I was trying to avoid just replacing
> parts until I get the right one. I have the timing set at 9 degrees
> BTDC.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Chris Hill
> 84 CJ7 258, T-4
> tatehill@yahoo.com

Mike Romain

I would first unplug and block with a bolt, the EGR line to see what
happens.

A dirty gas filter can cause that, especially if it isn't in right side
up. It has 2 outlets, the center one goes to the carb, the 'top' one
goes to the return line. The return needs to be up top or gas can go
back to the tank too easy and can syphon empty causing long cold starts.

Did you port the timing advance? I would use a light to see how the
advance works while revving it. Sometimes folks forget to oil the felt
pad under the rotor that keeps the timing advance plate moving and it
seizes.

How about gas octane? Too much alcohol in the gas will make them run
like crap.

Could the carb base plate have gotten flipped so you don't get manifold
vacuum routed up into the carb like it is supposed to? The cut outs
taper out and up to the carb. Just a thought, have seen that one
before.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Chris Hill wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I have an 84 CJ7 w/ 258 Carter BBD and T-4. It has the TFI
> upgrade and the Nutter bypass. The motor runs very well at idle and at
> constant rpm, but when I accelerate it bogs / stalls until the rpms
> finally catch up w/ it then it runs great. I can put the pedal to the
> floor (In any gear) and slowly let the pedal back up to about 1/2 and
> the motor seems to catch back up.
>
> I was wondering what tests I can perform to see if my problem lies
> within the fuel or the spark? I was trying to avoid just replacing
> parts until I get the right one. I have the timing set at 9 degrees
> BTDC.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Chris Hill
> 84 CJ7 258, T-4
> tatehill@yahoo.com

Mike Romain

I would first unplug and block with a bolt, the EGR line to see what
happens.

A dirty gas filter can cause that, especially if it isn't in right side
up. It has 2 outlets, the center one goes to the carb, the 'top' one
goes to the return line. The return needs to be up top or gas can go
back to the tank too easy and can syphon empty causing long cold starts.

Did you port the timing advance? I would use a light to see how the
advance works while revving it. Sometimes folks forget to oil the felt
pad under the rotor that keeps the timing advance plate moving and it
seizes.

How about gas octane? Too much alcohol in the gas will make them run
like crap.

Could the carb base plate have gotten flipped so you don't get manifold
vacuum routed up into the carb like it is supposed to? The cut outs
taper out and up to the carb. Just a thought, have seen that one
before.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Chris Hill wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I have an 84 CJ7 w/ 258 Carter BBD and T-4. It has the TFI
> upgrade and the Nutter bypass. The motor runs very well at idle and at
> constant rpm, but when I accelerate it bogs / stalls until the rpms
> finally catch up w/ it then it runs great. I can put the pedal to the
> floor (In any gear) and slowly let the pedal back up to about 1/2 and
> the motor seems to catch back up.
>
> I was wondering what tests I can perform to see if my problem lies
> within the fuel or the spark? I was trying to avoid just replacing
> parts until I get the right one. I have the timing set at 9 degrees
> BTDC.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Chris Hill
> 84 CJ7 258, T-4
> tatehill@yahoo.com

Mike Romain

I would first unplug and block with a bolt, the EGR line to see what
happens.

A dirty gas filter can cause that, especially if it isn't in right side
up. It has 2 outlets, the center one goes to the carb, the 'top' one
goes to the return line. The return needs to be up top or gas can go
back to the tank too easy and can syphon empty causing long cold starts.

Did you port the timing advance? I would use a light to see how the
advance works while revving it. Sometimes folks forget to oil the felt
pad under the rotor that keeps the timing advance plate moving and it
seizes.

How about gas octane? Too much alcohol in the gas will make them run
like crap.

Could the carb base plate have gotten flipped so you don't get manifold
vacuum routed up into the carb like it is supposed to? The cut outs
taper out and up to the carb. Just a thought, have seen that one
before.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Chris Hill wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I have an 84 CJ7 w/ 258 Carter BBD and T-4. It has the TFI
> upgrade and the Nutter bypass. The motor runs very well at idle and at
> constant rpm, but when I accelerate it bogs / stalls until the rpms
> finally catch up w/ it then it runs great. I can put the pedal to the
> floor (In any gear) and slowly let the pedal back up to about 1/2 and
> the motor seems to catch back up.
>
> I was wondering what tests I can perform to see if my problem lies
> within the fuel or the spark? I was trying to avoid just replacing
> parts until I get the right one. I have the timing set at 9 degrees
> BTDC.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Chris Hill
> 84 CJ7 258, T-4
> tatehill@yahoo.com

Chris Hill

Thanks guys for the suggestions.
When I purchased the CJ 04/04 it was hard to crank when it was cold and
had some sort of miss in it that you could easily hear when it was
idling, but driving it at highway speeds it had plenty of power and no
hesitation when I accelerated but it did ping in 4th gear when under a
load. I decided to give it a tune up because I wasn't sure when the
last time it had one. I put a new dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel
filter (return line is at top), and had the original carter rebuilt.
The miss when it was idling or pinging didn't go away, but it still
drove fine after it warmed up so I decided to leave it alone since it
was my second vehicle and I only drove it on the weekends.

I have since sold my primary vehicle and decided to make my jeep my
daily driver which was about a month ago. I decided I wanted to go
ahead and get the motor in great shape and do some mods / upgrades on
it that I have read about since I have owned my jeep. I started w/
wanting to get rid of the miss and pinging I kept hearing so I went and
did some research and decided to do an ignition upgrade to the TFI set
up, set the timing to 9 degrees BTDC @1600rpm, changed from manifold
(base of carb) vacuum advance to ported (side of carb), and It worked
like a champ, and voila no more miss! I then wanted to do the Nutter
Bypass (since I have heard nothing but good things about it) and did it
and voila no more Pinging!! However, it was at that time that I could
tell a faint acceleration issue when I pressed it all the way to the
floor, so I thought well that's just this old carb and I'll go out and
buy a new one. I decided to get one that didn't have the stepper motor
on it from a 79 CJ (had to change base plate) put it on, and the jeep
still idled fine, but the acceleration issue was worse I adjusted the 2
air mixture screws on the baseplate and got it a little better but
still was not good at all. I put my old carb back on, adjusted air mix
screws, and then it was a little better than the new carb but not good
at all. I went ahead and changed the fuel filter again yesterday and
still the same thing. I now am having to shift from 4th to 3rd to go
uphill (I didn't before). It's like the rpms haved changed. I did hear
it mildly backfiring when I downshifted yesterday so maybe the timing
is off still? Do I need to retard it some more? The EGR valve has been
plugged since I have owned the jeep, and since it ran so well before I
started modifying then I wouldn't think that was it. It's like I've
fixed a few problems only to discover a new one. Could I be getting too
much spark since I'm putting out more volts from the new coil? Would
you adjust the float level or Accelerator pump? I'm not sure still
where to start. Also, I am using bosch platinum plugs gapped at .045
for the TFI setup.
Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to make sure you knew the history.

Chris Hill

Thanks guys for the suggestions.
When I purchased the CJ 04/04 it was hard to crank when it was cold and
had some sort of miss in it that you could easily hear when it was
idling, but driving it at highway speeds it had plenty of power and no
hesitation when I accelerated but it did ping in 4th gear when under a
load. I decided to give it a tune up because I wasn't sure when the
last time it had one. I put a new dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel
filter (return line is at top), and had the original carter rebuilt.
The miss when it was idling or pinging didn't go away, but it still
drove fine after it warmed up so I decided to leave it alone since it
was my second vehicle and I only drove it on the weekends.

I have since sold my primary vehicle and decided to make my jeep my
daily driver which was about a month ago. I decided I wanted to go
ahead and get the motor in great shape and do some mods / upgrades on
it that I have read about since I have owned my jeep. I started w/
wanting to get rid of the miss and pinging I kept hearing so I went and
did some research and decided to do an ignition upgrade to the TFI set
up, set the timing to 9 degrees BTDC @1600rpm, changed from manifold
(base of carb) vacuum advance to ported (side of carb), and It worked
like a champ, and voila no more miss! I then wanted to do the Nutter
Bypass (since I have heard nothing but good things about it) and did it
and voila no more Pinging!! However, it was at that time that I could
tell a faint acceleration issue when I pressed it all the way to the
floor, so I thought well that's just this old carb and I'll go out and
buy a new one. I decided to get one that didn't have the stepper motor
on it from a 79 CJ (had to change base plate) put it on, and the jeep
still idled fine, but the acceleration issue was worse I adjusted the 2
air mixture screws on the baseplate and got it a little better but
still was not good at all. I put my old carb back on, adjusted air mix
screws, and then it was a little better than the new carb but not good
at all. I went ahead and changed the fuel filter again yesterday and
still the same thing. I now am having to shift from 4th to 3rd to go
uphill (I didn't before). It's like the rpms haved changed. I did hear
it mildly backfiring when I downshifted yesterday so maybe the timing
is off still? Do I need to retard it some more? The EGR valve has been
plugged since I have owned the jeep, and since it ran so well before I
started modifying then I wouldn't think that was it. It's like I've
fixed a few problems only to discover a new one. Could I be getting too
much spark since I'm putting out more volts from the new coil? Would
you adjust the float level or Accelerator pump? I'm not sure still
where to start. Also, I am using bosch platinum plugs gapped at .045
for the TFI setup.
Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to make sure you knew the history.

Chris Hill

Thanks guys for the suggestions.
When I purchased the CJ 04/04 it was hard to crank when it was cold and
had some sort of miss in it that you could easily hear when it was
idling, but driving it at highway speeds it had plenty of power and no
hesitation when I accelerated but it did ping in 4th gear when under a
load. I decided to give it a tune up because I wasn't sure when the
last time it had one. I put a new dist cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel
filter (return line is at top), and had the original carter rebuilt.
The miss when it was idling or pinging didn't go away, but it still
drove fine after it warmed up so I decided to leave it alone since it
was my second vehicle and I only drove it on the weekends.

I have since sold my primary vehicle and decided to make my jeep my
daily driver which was about a month ago. I decided I wanted to go
ahead and get the motor in great shape and do some mods / upgrades on
it that I have read about since I have owned my jeep. I started w/
wanting to get rid of the miss and pinging I kept hearing so I went and
did some research and decided to do an ignition upgrade to the TFI set
up, set the timing to 9 degrees BTDC @1600rpm, changed from manifold
(base of carb) vacuum advance to ported (side of carb), and It worked
like a champ, and voila no more miss! I then wanted to do the Nutter
Bypass (since I have heard nothing but good things about it) and did it
and voila no more Pinging!! However, it was at that time that I could
tell a faint acceleration issue when I pressed it all the way to the
floor, so I thought well that's just this old carb and I'll go out and
buy a new one. I decided to get one that didn't have the stepper motor
on it from a 79 CJ (had to change base plate) put it on, and the jeep
still idled fine, but the acceleration issue was worse I adjusted the 2
air mixture screws on the baseplate and got it a little better but
still was not good at all. I put my old carb back on, adjusted air mix
screws, and then it was a little better than the new carb but not good
at all. I went ahead and changed the fuel filter again yesterday and
still the same thing. I now am having to shift from 4th to 3rd to go
uphill (I didn't before). It's like the rpms haved changed. I did hear
it mildly backfiring when I downshifted yesterday so maybe the timing
is off still? Do I need to retard it some more? The EGR valve has been
plugged since I have owned the jeep, and since it ran so well before I
started modifying then I wouldn't think that was it. It's like I've
fixed a few problems only to discover a new one. Could I be getting too
much spark since I'm putting out more volts from the new coil? Would
you adjust the float level or Accelerator pump? I'm not sure still
where to start. Also, I am using bosch platinum plugs gapped at .045
for the TFI setup.
Sorry this was so long, but I wanted to make sure you knew the history.