I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew if
there's anything special to consider when doing that on this vehicle
or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't want to get
into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price to do it
myself, I am more then willing to take the time.

Any words of wisdom?

Thanks,
Scott

 

"infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew if
> there's anything special to consider when doing that on this vehicle
> or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't want to get
> into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price to do it
> myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>
> Any words of wisdom?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
>

I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You
shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper, remove
caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for when you
are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll admit that I have
forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

 

"infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew if
> there's anything special to consider when doing that on this vehicle
> or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't want to get
> into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price to do it
> myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>
> Any words of wisdom?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
>

I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You
shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper, remove
caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for when you
are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll admit that I have
forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

 

"infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew if
> there's anything special to consider when doing that on this vehicle
> or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't want to get
> into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price to do it
> myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>
> Any words of wisdom?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
>

I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You
shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper, remove
caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for when you
are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll admit that I have
forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

 

"infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew if
> there's anything special to consider when doing that on this vehicle
> or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't want to get
> into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price to do it
> myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>
> Any words of wisdom?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
>

I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You
shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper, remove
caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for when you
are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll admit that I have
forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

 

Raptor wrote:
> "infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>> I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
>> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
>> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
>> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew
>> if there's anything special to consider when doing that on this
>> vehicle or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't
>> want to get into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price
>> to do it myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott
>>
>
> I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
> Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper,
> remove caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
> Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for
> when you are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll
> admit that I have forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

Remove the outer pad but keep the inner pad in so when you push the
piston back in you're less likely to damage the piston.

I use a big *** C clamp, but they make a tool for pressing the piston
back in.

Keep your hands clean, keep your work clean, and use a degreaser on
the rotor to remove fingerprints and any leftover dust/stuff.

lube the slide pins and put no-squeek on the pad mounting surfaces.
(pads usually come with the no-squeek, but if not, NAPA or similar
places sell little one-use packets)

Follow the torque recommendation for the slider bolts.

Far as taking the lid off, I recommend you at least untwist it and
let it sit loose, that will be enough without allowing any debris
in.

Watch the level though, if someone topped off the reservoir it might
be too high after you do the pads. If so, draw off a bit with a clean
straw. Mind the paint, brake fluid is one of the best paint removers
out there.

--
DougW

 

Raptor wrote:
> "infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>> I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
>> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
>> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
>> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew
>> if there's anything special to consider when doing that on this
>> vehicle or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't
>> want to get into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price
>> to do it myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott
>>
>
> I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
> Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper,
> remove caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
> Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for
> when you are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll
> admit that I have forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

Remove the outer pad but keep the inner pad in so when you push the
piston back in you're less likely to damage the piston.

I use a big *** C clamp, but they make a tool for pressing the piston
back in.

Keep your hands clean, keep your work clean, and use a degreaser on
the rotor to remove fingerprints and any leftover dust/stuff.

lube the slide pins and put no-squeek on the pad mounting surfaces.
(pads usually come with the no-squeek, but if not, NAPA or similar
places sell little one-use packets)

Follow the torque recommendation for the slider bolts.

Far as taking the lid off, I recommend you at least untwist it and
let it sit loose, that will be enough without allowing any debris
in.

Watch the level though, if someone topped off the reservoir it might
be too high after you do the pads. If so, draw off a bit with a clean
straw. Mind the paint, brake fluid is one of the best paint removers
out there.

--
DougW

 

Raptor wrote:
> "infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>> I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
>> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
>> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
>> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew
>> if there's anything special to consider when doing that on this
>> vehicle or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't
>> want to get into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price
>> to do it myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott
>>
>
> I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
> Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper,
> remove caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
> Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for
> when you are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll
> admit that I have forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

Remove the outer pad but keep the inner pad in so when you push the
piston back in you're less likely to damage the piston.

I use a big *** C clamp, but they make a tool for pressing the piston
back in.

Keep your hands clean, keep your work clean, and use a degreaser on
the rotor to remove fingerprints and any leftover dust/stuff.

lube the slide pins and put no-squeek on the pad mounting surfaces.
(pads usually come with the no-squeek, but if not, NAPA or similar
places sell little one-use packets)

Follow the torque recommendation for the slider bolts.

Far as taking the lid off, I recommend you at least untwist it and
let it sit loose, that will be enough without allowing any debris
in.

Watch the level though, if someone topped off the reservoir it might
be too high after you do the pads. If so, draw off a bit with a clean
straw. Mind the paint, brake fluid is one of the best paint removers
out there.

--
DougW

 

Raptor wrote:
> "infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegr oups.com...
>> I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
>> brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
>> needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
>> something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew
>> if there's anything special to consider when doing that on this
>> vehicle or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't
>> want to get into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price
>> to do it myself, I am more then willing to take the time.
>>
>> Any words of wisdom?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott
>>
>
> I think changing brake pads is about as difficult as changing oil. You shouldn't even need to bleed the brake lines.
> Take off your wheel, remove the two retainer bolts on the caliper,
> remove caliper from rotor, remove pads. Reverse order to install.
> Somethings recommend removing the cover on the fluid resevoir for
> when you are pushing the caliper back. I generally do, but I'll
> admit that I have forgotten to before and everything still went fine.

Remove the outer pad but keep the inner pad in so when you push the
piston back in you're less likely to damage the piston.

I use a big *** C clamp, but they make a tool for pressing the piston
back in.

Keep your hands clean, keep your work clean, and use a degreaser on
the rotor to remove fingerprints and any leftover dust/stuff.

lube the slide pins and put no-squeek on the pad mounting surfaces.
(pads usually come with the no-squeek, but if not, NAPA or similar
places sell little one-use packets)

Follow the torque recommendation for the slider bolts.

Far as taking the lid off, I recommend you at least untwist it and
let it sit loose, that will be enough without allowing any debris
in.

Watch the level though, if someone topped off the reservoir it might
be too high after you do the pads. If so, draw off a bit with a clean
straw. Mind the paint, brake fluid is one of the best paint removers
out there.

--
DougW

 

In article <1187282514.127494.153250@d55g2000hsg.googlegroups .com>,
infiniteMPG <57classic@gmail.com> wrote:
#I have a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4X4 and it's in need of new
#brake pads. I used to do all my own work on my vehicles up until you
#needed a bazillion specialy tools and a $10K computer to replace
#something. My Jeep needs brakes and I was wondering if anyone knew if
#there's anything special to consider when doing that on this vehicle
#or is it the same old replace, bleed and go deal? Don't want to get
#into anything I can't finish but if it's 1/4 the price to do it
#myself, I am more then willing to take the time.

Replace, bleed and go for the most part...

Make sure you get teves pads if you have teves calipers and akebono
pads if you have akebono calipers. If you have teves calipers, consider
upgrading to akebono calipers. If you upgrade, get new rotors. Take
the teves calipers and put them on your TJ. WJ teves are a upgrade for
the TJ.

Don't chince out on the rotors. The made-in-china-inc junk will warp
and warp and warp. Don't bother with vented or slotted rotors--most
of them are made-in-china-inc junk with holes and slots in them so they
will crack or warp on you that much faster.

If you turn the rotors, you MUST match-mark them so that you can put
them back on exactly as they came off. DC says to use a on-the-car
turning machine... Unless you have a rotor that looks like a record
alblum from hell, you don't need to turn. And if you do, I would just
say screw it and get new rotors.

Use a torque wrench for the bolts.

The manual says the bolts that hold the caliper in place are single-use
but I've never seen a shop or dealer use new ones unless it was a teves
to akebono upgrade (the kit comes with new bolts). YMMV.

It's all metric after you get the lug nuts off.

/herb