Chris Curtin

Alright guys here is the story. I just bought an all original 84 CJ-7
w\ (258, 5 sp, no AC)about 110,000 miles on it from a guy who drove it
infrequently but regular enough to keep it all working. However, it
is obviously in need of some TLC then an eventual body swap. I just
finished putting on an aluminum valve cover, a Dyastar 1 inch body
lift and rebuilt all four corners with brakes and a new set of 31's
and wheels. Next weekend I am going to tackle the engine and this is
where I need your help. I have always been scared of carbs so I
figure that the best way to conquer my fear is to dive in. I have
infront of me a new Weber K551-38 with electric choke(did I mention my
fear of electrical work?). Additionally, I have a set of ceramic
coated headers and 2 flowmaster 40's. Now for the questions:

1. Am I over my head with the carb swap? The local guy says that he
will do it for ~$300. I live where there are no emission requirements
so can I skip most(all?) of the vacuum stuff? My biggest concern is
with adjustment after I get it installed. What are the pitfalls that
you have run into doing this swap? Anybody recommend rejetting for
altitude? I am at ~4500 ft ASL in Colorado.

2. I will need to remove the intake manifold along with the old
exhaust manifold, is the old manifold "decent" enough from a
peformance standpoint with the 38, headers, flowmaster etc or should I
get out the plastic for a performance manifold? Anybody used
Cliffords manifold? How about carb spacer?Pitfalls on the exhaust
swap?

3. During this whole process I figure it will be the best time to swap
the rear main seal since the exhaust will be out of the way.
Thoughts? Pitfalls?

Do these damn things ever stop leaking!? How about a recommendation
for degreasing the entire undercarriage?

Thanks, Chris

BTW if you want to respond directly please use chriscu at bresnan.net
instead of bellsouth.net

mrbx2

How about a recommendation
> for degreasing the entire undercarriage?

I have used cheap "Oven Cleaner". It is cheaper than "degreaser" and works
faster. Just remember that what the label says it means!! It can ruin a
paint job and a manicure!

Chris Curtin

Nutter is not a bad idea but I think I might wait on the complete head
swap for the time being unless you've got a machined and assembled
head that you want to donate to the project %-).

"Brand Howard" <brand@jeeproject.com> wrote in message news:<DJnSa.89889$xg5.49184@twister.austin.rr.com> ...
> > 1. Am I over my head with the carb swap? The local guy says that he
> > will do it for ~$300. I live where there are no emission requirements
> > so can I skip most(all?) of the vacuum stuff? My biggest concern is
> > with adjustment after I get it installed. What are the pitfalls that
> > you have run into doing this swap? Anybody recommend rejetting for
> > altitude? I am at ~4500 ft ASL in Colorado.
>
> Perfect time far the nutter bypass.
> http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/ele...jn-ignition99/
>
>
> > 2. I will need to remove the intake manifold along with the old
> > exhaust manifold, is the old manifold "decent" enough from a
> > peformance standpoint with the 38, headers, flowmaster etc or should I
> > get out the plastic for a performance manifold? Anybody used
> > Cliffords manifold? How about carb spacer?Pitfalls on the exhaust
> > swap?
>
> Perfect time for a 4.0 head. Supposed to add 40hp. The best part is that
> you have to drill a couple of holes for water passages then it will bolt
> right on.
> http://monsterslayer.com/jeep/40Head/40Head.htm
>
>
> Brand Howard
> www.jeeproject.com