RoyJ

Go to the store and buy every length of extension, univeral joint,
wobbler extension, etc that you can find. You will need them all. You
can get to them, they just need exactly the right combination.

ufatbasted wrote:

> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4, 2, 1
> and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the way.
> Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque them to
> spec?
>
>
> For anyone who has done this how did you remove and torque those 4 bolts?
>
>
>

RoyJ

Go to the store and buy every length of extension, univeral joint,
wobbler extension, etc that you can find. You will need them all. You
can get to them, they just need exactly the right combination.

ufatbasted wrote:

> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4, 2, 1
> and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the way.
> Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque them to
> spec?
>
>
> For anyone who has done this how did you remove and torque those 4 bolts?
>
>
>

RoyJ

Go to the store and buy every length of extension, univeral joint,
wobbler extension, etc that you can find. You will need them all. You
can get to them, they just need exactly the right combination.

ufatbasted wrote:

> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4, 2, 1
> and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the way.
> Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque them to
> spec?
>
>
> For anyone who has done this how did you remove and torque those 4 bolts?
>
>
>

DougW

ufatbasted wrote:
> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my
> 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4,
> 2, 1 and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the
> way. Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque
> them to spec?

By hand, or with a crowfoot and math. When you use an offset on a torque
wrench, you change the torque that is applied depending on how things are
lined up. It's a real pain in the ***. http://www.norbar.com/faqs.php

Keep in mind I'm talking about my ZJ here.

The injector rail doesn't have to come off, just the connections.
But watch the gas, there is quite a bit in there. I went ahead
and took the injectors out, replaced the O rings (use new ones and
lube with motor oil), and cleaned the intake rail, TB, etc.

NOTE: Don't stick things into the injectors spray cone. Let the
noses sit in TB cleaner and shake the dirt off. (that or take them
to any diesel place where they usually have the equipment to clean
and test injectors)

I removed the air box to get in there better. Once all
that stuff and the PS pump is set aside, it's easier to reach in.

The lower bolts I had to do with a box end wrench. Got a feel for
the torque, tested on one I could check with a torque wrench, then
did the lower ones by hand.

http://revbeergoggles.com/banks/

You must get the head clean.. real clean, no stuck on stuff left.
Then use some form-a-gasket Copper. A very thin (suntan lotion thin)
smear on the block and header will help get a good seal. You don't want
so much it oozes out.

I still havd to go back and tighten the bolts at least two more times.

One trick before you put the intake/exhaust back on is to make sure
the gasket doesn't stick into the flow. If it does just cut it back.

--
DougW

DougW

ufatbasted wrote:
> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my
> 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4,
> 2, 1 and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the
> way. Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque
> them to spec?

By hand, or with a crowfoot and math. When you use an offset on a torque
wrench, you change the torque that is applied depending on how things are
lined up. It's a real pain in the ***. http://www.norbar.com/faqs.php

Keep in mind I'm talking about my ZJ here.

The injector rail doesn't have to come off, just the connections.
But watch the gas, there is quite a bit in there. I went ahead
and took the injectors out, replaced the O rings (use new ones and
lube with motor oil), and cleaned the intake rail, TB, etc.

NOTE: Don't stick things into the injectors spray cone. Let the
noses sit in TB cleaner and shake the dirt off. (that or take them
to any diesel place where they usually have the equipment to clean
and test injectors)

I removed the air box to get in there better. Once all
that stuff and the PS pump is set aside, it's easier to reach in.

The lower bolts I had to do with a box end wrench. Got a feel for
the torque, tested on one I could check with a torque wrench, then
did the lower ones by hand.

http://revbeergoggles.com/banks/

You must get the head clean.. real clean, no stuck on stuff left.
Then use some form-a-gasket Copper. A very thin (suntan lotion thin)
smear on the block and header will help get a good seal. You don't want
so much it oozes out.

I still havd to go back and tighten the bolts at least two more times.

One trick before you put the intake/exhaust back on is to make sure
the gasket doesn't stick into the flow. If it does just cut it back.

--
DougW

DougW

ufatbasted wrote:
> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my
> 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4,
> 2, 1 and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the
> way. Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque
> them to spec?

By hand, or with a crowfoot and math. When you use an offset on a torque
wrench, you change the torque that is applied depending on how things are
lined up. It's a real pain in the ***. http://www.norbar.com/faqs.php

Keep in mind I'm talking about my ZJ here.

The injector rail doesn't have to come off, just the connections.
But watch the gas, there is quite a bit in there. I went ahead
and took the injectors out, replaced the O rings (use new ones and
lube with motor oil), and cleaned the intake rail, TB, etc.

NOTE: Don't stick things into the injectors spray cone. Let the
noses sit in TB cleaner and shake the dirt off. (that or take them
to any diesel place where they usually have the equipment to clean
and test injectors)

I removed the air box to get in there better. Once all
that stuff and the PS pump is set aside, it's easier to reach in.

The lower bolts I had to do with a box end wrench. Got a feel for
the torque, tested on one I could check with a torque wrench, then
did the lower ones by hand.

http://revbeergoggles.com/banks/

You must get the head clean.. real clean, no stuck on stuff left.
Then use some form-a-gasket Copper. A very thin (suntan lotion thin)
smear on the block and header will help get a good seal. You don't want
so much it oozes out.

I still havd to go back and tighten the bolts at least two more times.

One trick before you put the intake/exhaust back on is to make sure
the gasket doesn't stick into the flow. If it does just cut it back.

--
DougW

DougW

ufatbasted wrote:
> I researching on how to replace my cracked exhasut manifold on my
> 91yj 4.O
>
> I was looking at my rig and could not see how I would remove bolts 4,
> 2, 1 and 5 on the torque specs next to item number 23 on this web page
> http://dailydriventj.com/mfr4.shtml
>
> I could'nt even find those bolts as the intake m aniflod was in the
> way. Also besides removing them how the heck are you able to torque
> them to spec?

By hand, or with a crowfoot and math. When you use an offset on a torque
wrench, you change the torque that is applied depending on how things are
lined up. It's a real pain in the ***. http://www.norbar.com/faqs.php

Keep in mind I'm talking about my ZJ here.

The injector rail doesn't have to come off, just the connections.
But watch the gas, there is quite a bit in there. I went ahead
and took the injectors out, replaced the O rings (use new ones and
lube with motor oil), and cleaned the intake rail, TB, etc.

NOTE: Don't stick things into the injectors spray cone. Let the
noses sit in TB cleaner and shake the dirt off. (that or take them
to any diesel place where they usually have the equipment to clean
and test injectors)

I removed the air box to get in there better. Once all
that stuff and the PS pump is set aside, it's easier to reach in.

The lower bolts I had to do with a box end wrench. Got a feel for
the torque, tested on one I could check with a torque wrench, then
did the lower ones by hand.

http://revbeergoggles.com/banks/

You must get the head clean.. real clean, no stuck on stuff left.
Then use some form-a-gasket Copper. A very thin (suntan lotion thin)
smear on the block and header will help get a good seal. You don't want
so much it oozes out.

I still havd to go back and tighten the bolts at least two more times.

One trick before you put the intake/exhaust back on is to make sure
the gasket doesn't stick into the flow. If it does just cut it back.

--
DougW