Info on 95 GC
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
> Will,
>
> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded. 8
> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they have
> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back. If
> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
> rest of it can't be far behind.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with 2k
>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what I'm
>> looking at.
>>
>> What are the weak points?
>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>> about.
>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
> Will,
>
> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded. 8
> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they have
> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back. If
> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
> rest of it can't be far behind.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with 2k
>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what I'm
>> looking at.
>>
>> What are the weak points?
>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>> about.
>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
> Will,
>
> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded. 8
> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they have
> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back. If
> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
> rest of it can't be far behind.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with 2k
>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what I'm
>> looking at.
>>
>> What are the weak points?
>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>> about.
>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
> Will,
>
> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded. 8
> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they have
> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back. If
> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
> rest of it can't be far behind.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with 2k
>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what I'm
>> looking at.
>>
>> What are the weak points?
>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>> about.
>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
> Will,
>
> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded. 8
> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they have
> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back. If
> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
> rest of it can't be far behind.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with 2k
>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what I'm
>> looking at.
>>
>> What are the weak points?
>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>> about.
>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
> Will,
>
> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded. 8
> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they have
> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back. If
> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
> rest of it can't be far behind.
>
> Carl
>
>
> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with 2k
>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what I'm
>> looking at.
>>
>> What are the weak points?
>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>> about.
>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>
>> --
>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
--
Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
If it has the nv249 AWD transfer case you can check for normal function of
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
If it has the nv249 AWD transfer case you can check for normal function of
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
If it has the nv249 AWD transfer case you can check for normal function of
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
If it has the nv249 AWD transfer case you can check for normal function of
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
the TC by driving in tight "figure-eights" in a parking lot.
A failing nv249 will bind, chip, hop, or squeal the tires. The symptoms are
progressive as he VC deteriorates, before failure it will act as if you were
driving a part time 4WD on pavement.
At that point your repair choices are replacement of the VC or the choice
that is becoming more popular is swapping an in nv242 Selectrac transfer
case. In some cases it will just bolt-up, on others you may have to replace
the input shaft as the design specs changed part way through the ZJ run..
As the SelecTrac was available all the appropriate trim and bezels are
available for a clean installation.
The 5.2 engine is Chrysler's 318 in use from ('67 or so) until '99 when it
was replaced by the 4.7 liter. As with all mechanical things the expected
life depends on the care it received.
There is a problem with that engine where due to a failed seal it can
exhibit high oil consumption. The fix is to replace that gasket set with
either another factory or another (more durable) aftermarket one but an
unscrupulous mechanic (or naive owner) might replace the engine......
Certainly it would be the owner because no repair facility would ever
consider performing an unnecessarily expensive repair on an unsuspecting
customer's vehicle
My '95 ZJ manual lists only the Dana35 rear axle but I suspect that the
Corporate 8.25 and Dana44a (aluminum) may also have been used in V-8 models.
An Axle identification guide may be found at:
..http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...xleIDChart.jpg
As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know what to
look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and AC to see
if they were maintained.
"Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:45d01075$0$25784$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
> Good point, Carl. Given the time frame of the engine swap, there's a
> better than even chance this guy neglected the antifreeze and got caught
> by the recent extended cold snap - but I'll check. Any quick and dirty
> way to tell if it's the NP242 or the problematic AWD with the viscous
> clutch? I guess a 2HI position would be a pretty good clue, though...
>
> As for servicing, my kids have all learned lesson #1: when you buy a used
> car, you park it until you have time to replace all the fluids - brake
> fluid included. I usually throw in a quart of kerosene to flush the
> crankcase as well, then pull the wheels to check the brakes. I tell them
> to just assume they need new brakes. Of course, I generally count on at
> least 100k miles out of anything I buy.
>
> On Sun, 11 Feb 2007 21:54:33 -0800, Carl S wrote:
>
>> Will,
>>
>> Normally the decision to buy a Jeep of nearly any model is applauded.
>> 8
>> out of 10 times you can't go wrong. This is one of the two. Unless they
>> have
>> a VERY good reason for replacing the motor, run away and never look back.
>> If
>> they neglected the Jeep bad enough to ruin a 5.2L in under 70k miles, the
>> rest of it can't be far behind.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>> "Will Honea" <whonea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:45cfeaa6$0$695$815e3792@news.qwest.net...
>>> My son is looking at a 95 GC, 72k miles, rebuilt (Jasper) 5.2 V8n with
>>> 2k
>>> mile since swap and 2 yrs. left on warranty, full time 4WD. Guy seems a
>>> tad proud of but that's horse trading. I need some quick info on what
>>> I'm
>>> looking at.
>>>
>>> What are the weak points?
>>> How do you check the full time tc, since that's one weak link I know
>>> about.
>>> Does that year use the aluminum diff housing?
>>> Any comments on gas mileage, quirks?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
>
>
>
> --
> Will Honea <whonea@yahoo.com>
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:51b93$45d073f9$422afc51$1225@FUSE.NET...
....
> As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know
> what to look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and
> AC to see if they were maintained.
>
I recommend replacing all the O-rings in the AC at once, because it is a lot
cheaper than paying to replace one, recharge, wait three months, replace
another, recharge... AC shops typically charge $20-$30 a pound for
refrigerant.
Earle
news:51b93$45d073f9$422afc51$1225@FUSE.NET...
....
> As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know
> what to look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and
> AC to see if they were maintained.
>
I recommend replacing all the O-rings in the AC at once, because it is a lot
cheaper than paying to replace one, recharge, wait three months, replace
another, recharge... AC shops typically charge $20-$30 a pound for
refrigerant.
Earle
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:51b93$45d073f9$422afc51$1225@FUSE.NET...
....
> As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know
> what to look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and
> AC to see if they were maintained.
>
I recommend replacing all the O-rings in the AC at once, because it is a lot
cheaper than paying to replace one, recharge, wait three months, replace
another, recharge... AC shops typically charge $20-$30 a pound for
refrigerant.
Earle
news:51b93$45d073f9$422afc51$1225@FUSE.NET...
....
> As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know
> what to look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and
> AC to see if they were maintained.
>
I recommend replacing all the O-rings in the AC at once, because it is a lot
cheaper than paying to replace one, recharge, wait three months, replace
another, recharge... AC shops typically charge $20-$30 a pound for
refrigerant.
Earle
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Info on 95 GC
"billy ray" <billy_ray@SPAMfuse.net> wrote in message
news:51b93$45d073f9$422afc51$1225@FUSE.NET...
....
> As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know
> what to look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and
> AC to see if they were maintained.
>
I recommend replacing all the O-rings in the AC at once, because it is a lot
cheaper than paying to replace one, recharge, wait three months, replace
another, recharge... AC shops typically charge $20-$30 a pound for
refrigerant.
Earle
news:51b93$45d073f9$422afc51$1225@FUSE.NET...
....
> As for other problems..... it is an 12 year old vehicle and you know
> what to look for.... pay particular attention to the cooling system and
> AC to see if they were maintained.
>
I recommend replacing all the O-rings in the AC at once, because it is a lot
cheaper than paying to replace one, recharge, wait three months, replace
another, recharge... AC shops typically charge $20-$30 a pound for
refrigerant.
Earle