idler pulley
#61
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ping Lon (was: idler pulley)
LOL.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tomes wrote:
>
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Tomes wrote:
>
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
#62
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: idler pulley
Ah! I see....
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
#63
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: idler pulley
Ah! I see....
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
#64
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: idler pulley
Ah! I see....
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
#65
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: idler pulley
Ah! I see....
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
So that would mean that the ones I have seen did seize up the bearing
and try to use the spacer as a bushing because these spacers have been
'spun' with washer damage and ridges in the pulley's belt surface from
the wobble that was going on.
You are right, that many rpm on a bushing doesn't really make a lot of
sense does it.
Mike
Will Honea wrote:
>
> AH! We're talking about the same thing, just different pieces. The
> "bushing" is a spacer/ washer that fits inside the "wheel" part of the
> pulley. That wheel has a roller bearing in the center that the spacer
> fits thru. If you look at the mount, you will see that the spacer
> butts up tight against the mount and keeps us gorillas from pinching
> the bearing when we crank down on the bolt. I was concerned about the
> bearing inner race spinning on the spacer core if it froze but it
> seems to be pretty snug. My spacer is cast aluminum, near as I can
> tell - wouldn't serve as a bushing for more than a few minutes.
>
> On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 22:51:58 UTC Mike Romain <romainm@sympatico.ca>
> wrote:
>
> > Will Honea wrote:
> > >
> > > On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 12:09:27 UTC "DougW"
> > > <post.replies@invalid.address> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Will Honea did pass the time by typing:
> > > > > All the ones I've seen have the ball bearings - jusr replaced one for
> > > > > my son last week. Damn things sure have gone up in price since I did
> > > > > the one on my MJ.
> > > >
> > > > how much, if you don't mind.
> > > >
> > > > About two years ago I paid about $18 for an idler at NAPA.
> > >
> > > That's about what they dinged him for the idler. I got mine about 4
> > > years ago for right at $10 - from the dealer yet!
> > >
> > > Mike was talking about a bushing rather than a bearing setup - that I
> > > have never seen. I just can't see how a bushing would hold up under
> > > the lateral loading and rpm. I did notice that the original one on
> > > the '88 had metal caps over the bearing while the new ones had a a
> > > seal/cover that were a single piece of plastic.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Will Honea
> >
> > Very strange....
> >
> > I have changed a few including my 88's and they all were bushings. The
> > bushing has a big washer or metal cap over the end of it with a bolt
> > going through the middle. I had to buy all 3 pieces separately.....
> >
> > I think I have one receipt for the bushing. If so it would be part
> > #33002201 bushing 24-025-026 and I had to special order it for $2.15.
> > The pulley would be part #53002905 pulley 07-004-001 and it cost me
> > $23.99.
> >
> > I then realized when I got the old one off I also needed the bolt and
> > washer. Can't put my hands on that receipt...
> >
> > This was back in 99.
> >
> > Mike
> > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> --
> Will Honea
#66
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ping Lon
Disclaimer: As scientific as moonshine...maybe less. I just poured the
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
#67
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ping Lon
Disclaimer: As scientific as moonshine...maybe less. I just poured the
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
#68
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ping Lon
Disclaimer: As scientific as moonshine...maybe less. I just poured the
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
#69
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ping Lon
Disclaimer: As scientific as moonshine...maybe less. I just poured the
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It
was 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls
of Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used
to put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems
to work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
thickening.
Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if
you have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off
belts. Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but
can increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
Tomes proclaimed:
> Hi Lon,
> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to try
> this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What weight of
> Syntec?
> Thanks,
> Tomes
>
>
> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>
>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>
>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>
>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>
>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>
>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>
>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>right along the bearing face.
>>
>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>
>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a new
>>serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>
>>
>
>
>
#70
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Ping Lon
Thanks Lon, much appreciated.
Tomes
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JsSdnQgaWINBH5rZRVn-pA@comcast.com...
> Disclaimer: As scientific as moonshine...maybe less. I just poured the
> STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It was
> 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls of
> Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
> around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used to
> put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems to
> work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
> thickening.
>
> Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
> squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if you
> have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off belts.
> Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but can
> increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
>
>
>
>
>
> Tomes proclaimed:
>
>> Hi Lon,
>> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to
>> try this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What
>> weight of Syntec?
>> Thanks,
>> Tomes
>>
>>
>> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>>
>>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>>
>>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>>
>>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>>
>>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>>
>>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>>
>>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>>right along the bearing face.
>>>
>>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>>
>>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a
>>>new serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
Tomes
"Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JsSdnQgaWINBH5rZRVn-pA@comcast.com...
> Disclaimer: As scientific as moonshine...maybe less. I just poured the
> STP into Syntec until it looked roughly like 90 weight gear lube. It was
> 5W-40, but I can't imagine that matters. And added a coupla capfuls of
> Marvel hoping to get a bit of penetration into that very narrow seam
> around the bearing. More important was a long tube that could be used to
> put only 1-2 small drops and do it perpendicular to the idler. Seems to
> work well for hood hinges, etc. and haven't noticed any temperature
> thickening.
>
> Note you may want to try a bit of rub on belt dressing, as a lot of cold
> squeak is just worn or loose belt. The rub on stuff is available if you
> have farmers or other in the area that use it for power take off belts.
> Never tried the spray stuff from auto stores. Soap works but can
> increase slip, so if it helps wash it off.
>
>
>
>
>
> Tomes proclaimed:
>
>> Hi Lon,
>> I want to make this mix as I have a similar squeak that I would like to
>> try this on. About what ratios of the 3 ingredients do you use? What
>> weight of Syntec?
>> Thanks,
>> Tomes
>>
>>
>> "Lon" <lon.stowell@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:fdadnXAvEPKCzZ_ZRVn-qw@comcast.com...
>>
>>>Scott in Baltimore proclaimed:
>>>
>>>>Do a lot of you have/get squeaks on the idler pulley?
>>>>
>>>>Someone commented about using STP on an idler.
>>>>
>>>>My squeak comes and goes with the weather, and it's annoying!
>>>
>>>I had one that if I ran the thing heavy, as in crossing the sierras... if
>>>I parked it and the next day was overly wet and cold, the idler would
>>>squeak for under a minute on a cold start. I used a mix of STP, Castrol
>>>Syntec, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Mostly STP, with the Castrol Syntec to
>>>thin it down to roughly a 90 weight gear lube consistency. Then just a
>>>couple capfuls of Marvel Mystery to get a bit of quick penetration.
>>>
>>>The hard part is getting the mix into the bearing without getting it on
>>>the serpentine [which would not be a good idea]. I used a piece of hobby
>>>shop brass tube bent just a tad so it could drop just a few small drops
>>>right along the bearing face.
>>>
>>>Been quiet ever since the first treatment.
>>>
>>>I have a new idler and do plan to replace it, probably when I put in a
>>>new serpentine at 90K. Or if it starts squeaking again.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>