Idle and timing issues
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
before base timing can be checked with a lite
Mike Romain wrote:
> The book way is for the computer run carb 258 engine. At 1600 rpm, your
> mechanical timing is full advance and then the computer takes over. I
> believe the distributor vacuum line should be off and plugged too.
>
> My guess is that click you hear shutting off the vacuum leak (high idle)
> is the defective PCV/canister solenoid that sits just behind the carb.
> These never did work, so the fix is to pull it and just put a plain T
> fitting in it's place.
>
> My CJ7 with no computer messing up the works runs best at about 7-9 deg
> advance at 700 rpm with a ported vacuum signal. But, when I killed the
> computer, my timing had to be advanced by about 10 degrees to run
> manually.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Joe and Joann wrote:
> >
> > Thought I would check my ignition timing on the 1990 256 YJ. Checking at
> > 700 rpm showed only about 3 degrees advanced. I advanced it to 9
> > degrees. I had to back the idle screw almost all the way out to get it
> > back to 700 rpm. The strange thing is that now after letting off the
> > gas, the idle is very rough and about 300-400 rpm higher. After a
> > varying amount of time 5 to 20 seconds, the idle drops to about 700 and
> > smooths out. When the idle smooths out and drops to where it should be,
> > there is a click somewhere on top of the engine. My guess is that it is
> > a solenoid. Anyone know what the computer might be doing after coming
> > back from high rpm to curb idle. It doesn't seem to be the sol-vac that
> > is doing it.
> >
> > The good news is that the Jeep is way more responsive and has never run
> > better. If I could just get rid of the rough faster idle period I would
> > be a happy camper.
> >
> > I have checked several times for a vacuum leak and so far no luck.
> >
> > Also I am somewhat confused about the procedure for timing adjustment in
> > my Haynes book It says to disconnect the electrical connector from the
> > CEC sys switch located on top of the valve cover. What is this? It also
> > says to increase the idle speed to 1600 rpm and the the timing mark
> > should appear stationary. Does this mean that there should be no advance
> > between spec idle at 700 rpm and 1600 rpm? It seems there was some
> > advance on mine as you went to 1700 rpm, which I attributed to the a
> > centrifugal advance. When I checked and reset the timing, I only
> > disconnected the vac advance, but not the CEC system switch since I
> > could not find out what that was.
> >
> > Guess I am missing something here.
> >
> > Aloha from Maui
> > Joe
before base timing can be checked with a lite
Mike Romain wrote:
> The book way is for the computer run carb 258 engine. At 1600 rpm, your
> mechanical timing is full advance and then the computer takes over. I
> believe the distributor vacuum line should be off and plugged too.
>
> My guess is that click you hear shutting off the vacuum leak (high idle)
> is the defective PCV/canister solenoid that sits just behind the carb.
> These never did work, so the fix is to pull it and just put a plain T
> fitting in it's place.
>
> My CJ7 with no computer messing up the works runs best at about 7-9 deg
> advance at 700 rpm with a ported vacuum signal. But, when I killed the
> computer, my timing had to be advanced by about 10 degrees to run
> manually.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Joe and Joann wrote:
> >
> > Thought I would check my ignition timing on the 1990 256 YJ. Checking at
> > 700 rpm showed only about 3 degrees advanced. I advanced it to 9
> > degrees. I had to back the idle screw almost all the way out to get it
> > back to 700 rpm. The strange thing is that now after letting off the
> > gas, the idle is very rough and about 300-400 rpm higher. After a
> > varying amount of time 5 to 20 seconds, the idle drops to about 700 and
> > smooths out. When the idle smooths out and drops to where it should be,
> > there is a click somewhere on top of the engine. My guess is that it is
> > a solenoid. Anyone know what the computer might be doing after coming
> > back from high rpm to curb idle. It doesn't seem to be the sol-vac that
> > is doing it.
> >
> > The good news is that the Jeep is way more responsive and has never run
> > better. If I could just get rid of the rough faster idle period I would
> > be a happy camper.
> >
> > I have checked several times for a vacuum leak and so far no luck.
> >
> > Also I am somewhat confused about the procedure for timing adjustment in
> > my Haynes book It says to disconnect the electrical connector from the
> > CEC sys switch located on top of the valve cover. What is this? It also
> > says to increase the idle speed to 1600 rpm and the the timing mark
> > should appear stationary. Does this mean that there should be no advance
> > between spec idle at 700 rpm and 1600 rpm? It seems there was some
> > advance on mine as you went to 1700 rpm, which I attributed to the a
> > centrifugal advance. When I checked and reset the timing, I only
> > disconnected the vac advance, but not the CEC system switch since I
> > could not find out what that was.
> >
> > Guess I am missing something here.
> >
> > Aloha from Maui
> > Joe
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:--------------------
tim bur wrote:
>
> if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> before base timing can be checked with a lite
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
On a 258?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
On a 258?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
On a 258?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
On a 258?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
"L.W.(ßill) ------ III" wrote:
>
> Yes, always, and looks like this on a Ford:
> http://www.----------.com/temp/safeMode.jpg
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:--------------------
>
> tim bur wrote:
> >
> > if i remember correctly there is a shunt connector that must be unplugged
> > before base timing can be checked with a lite
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Idle and timing issues
No, It's part of computer controlled distributors without
mechanical vacuum nor centrifugal advances.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> On a 258?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
mechanical vacuum nor centrifugal advances.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> On a 258?
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's