I am an Idiot and need help
09-13-2006, 12:13 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
I am an Idiot and need help
Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
out?
I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
to get fixed?
I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
this! I am an idiot!
Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
that normal?
Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
Tim K
think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
out?
I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
to get fixed?
I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
this! I am an idiot!
Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
that normal?
Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
Tim K
09-13-2006, 07:26 AM
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
ltkaknm wrote:
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
Most engines will run fine wihtout the TSP and IAS attached.
The first step to determine if a rough idle is due to mechanicals is to
disconnect the IAS. If the engine smooths out then the problem is not
mechanical. As for the TPS, the engine will run without that sensor
but it won't perform well or have a wide-open-throttle acceleration mode.
--
DougW
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
Most engines will run fine wihtout the TSP and IAS attached.
The first step to determine if a rough idle is due to mechanicals is to
disconnect the IAS. If the engine smooths out then the problem is not
mechanical. As for the TPS, the engine will run without that sensor
but it won't perform well or have a wide-open-throttle acceleration mode.
--
DougW
09-13-2006, 07:26 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
ltkaknm wrote:
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
Most engines will run fine wihtout the TSP and IAS attached.
The first step to determine if a rough idle is due to mechanicals is to
disconnect the IAS. If the engine smooths out then the problem is not
mechanical. As for the TPS, the engine will run without that sensor
but it won't perform well or have a wide-open-throttle acceleration mode.
--
DougW
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
Most engines will run fine wihtout the TSP and IAS attached.
The first step to determine if a rough idle is due to mechanicals is to
disconnect the IAS. If the engine smooths out then the problem is not
mechanical. As for the TPS, the engine will run without that sensor
but it won't perform well or have a wide-open-throttle acceleration mode.
--
DougW
09-13-2006, 07:26 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
ltkaknm wrote:
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
Most engines will run fine wihtout the TSP and IAS attached.
The first step to determine if a rough idle is due to mechanicals is to
disconnect the IAS. If the engine smooths out then the problem is not
mechanical. As for the TPS, the engine will run without that sensor
but it won't perform well or have a wide-open-throttle acceleration mode.
--
DougW
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
Most engines will run fine wihtout the TSP and IAS attached.
The first step to determine if a rough idle is due to mechanicals is to
disconnect the IAS. If the engine smooths out then the problem is not
mechanical. As for the TPS, the engine will run without that sensor
but it won't perform well or have a wide-open-throttle acceleration mode.
--
DougW
09-13-2006, 09:35 AM
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
bolt.
The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
it in place of the burned one.
The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> out?
>
> I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
>
> Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> to get fixed?
>
> I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> this! I am an idiot!
>
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
>
> Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
>
> Tim K
wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
bolt.
The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
it in place of the burned one.
The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> out?
>
> I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
>
> Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> to get fixed?
>
> I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> this! I am an idiot!
>
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
>
> Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
>
> Tim K
09-13-2006, 09:35 AM
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
bolt.
The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
it in place of the burned one.
The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> out?
>
> I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
>
> Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> to get fixed?
>
> I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> this! I am an idiot!
>
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
>
> Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
>
> Tim K
wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
bolt.
The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
it in place of the burned one.
The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> out?
>
> I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
>
> Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> to get fixed?
>
> I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> this! I am an idiot!
>
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
>
> Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
>
> Tim K
09-13-2006, 09:35 AM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
bolt.
The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
it in place of the burned one.
The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> out?
>
> I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
>
> Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> to get fixed?
>
> I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> this! I am an idiot!
>
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
>
> Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
>
> Tim K
wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
bolt.
The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
it in place of the burned one.
The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> out?
>
> I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
>
> Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> to get fixed?
>
> I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> this! I am an idiot!
>
> Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> that normal?
>
> Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
>
> Tim K
09-13-2006, 11:46 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
Mike,
Thanks for your help again, I was reading your post and you mentioned
a power distribution center. Since my jeep is a 90 I do not think I
have a PDC. Did you mean the ground bolt on the side of the engine?
Also I took off the radiator grill and opened up the wire harness and
the wire did melt through the interior but did not affect any other
wires.
I am so agitated, since this was a non-important light that has
possibly fried my lights. I am also not real comfortable dealing with
electricity.
The JEEP is in great shape and I do not want to give up on it and junk
it.
I still seem to be having the problem with the idling. Could it be a
bad computer?
My Dad is sending me a multimeter so I can test connections.
THanks again for your help.
Tim K
Mike Romain wrote:
> The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
> wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
> a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
>
> If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
> to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
> bolt.
>
> The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
> so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
> it in place of the burned one.
>
> The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
> but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> > think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> > system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> > up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> > it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> > driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> > headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> > work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> > check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> > out?
> >
> > I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> > would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> > are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
> >
> > Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> > to get fixed?
> >
> > I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> > this! I am an idiot!
> >
> > Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> > that normal?
> >
> > Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
> >
> > Tim K
Thanks for your help again, I was reading your post and you mentioned
a power distribution center. Since my jeep is a 90 I do not think I
have a PDC. Did you mean the ground bolt on the side of the engine?
Also I took off the radiator grill and opened up the wire harness and
the wire did melt through the interior but did not affect any other
wires.
I am so agitated, since this was a non-important light that has
possibly fried my lights. I am also not real comfortable dealing with
electricity.
The JEEP is in great shape and I do not want to give up on it and junk
it.
I still seem to be having the problem with the idling. Could it be a
bad computer?
My Dad is sending me a multimeter so I can test connections.
THanks again for your help.
Tim K
Mike Romain wrote:
> The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
> wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
> a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
>
> If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
> to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
> bolt.
>
> The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
> so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
> it in place of the burned one.
>
> The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
> but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> > think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> > system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> > up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> > it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> > driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> > headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> > work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> > check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> > out?
> >
> > I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> > would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> > are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
> >
> > Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> > to get fixed?
> >
> > I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> > this! I am an idiot!
> >
> > Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> > that normal?
> >
> > Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
> >
> > Tim K
09-13-2006, 11:46 AM
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
Mike,
Thanks for your help again, I was reading your post and you mentioned
a power distribution center. Since my jeep is a 90 I do not think I
have a PDC. Did you mean the ground bolt on the side of the engine?
Also I took off the radiator grill and opened up the wire harness and
the wire did melt through the interior but did not affect any other
wires.
I am so agitated, since this was a non-important light that has
possibly fried my lights. I am also not real comfortable dealing with
electricity.
The JEEP is in great shape and I do not want to give up on it and junk
it.
I still seem to be having the problem with the idling. Could it be a
bad computer?
My Dad is sending me a multimeter so I can test connections.
THanks again for your help.
Tim K
Mike Romain wrote:
> The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
> wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
> a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
>
> If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
> to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
> bolt.
>
> The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
> so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
> it in place of the burned one.
>
> The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
> but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> > think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> > system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> > up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> > it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> > driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> > headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> > work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> > check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> > out?
> >
> > I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> > would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> > are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
> >
> > Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> > to get fixed?
> >
> > I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> > this! I am an idiot!
> >
> > Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> > that normal?
> >
> > Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
> >
> > Tim K
Thanks for your help again, I was reading your post and you mentioned
a power distribution center. Since my jeep is a 90 I do not think I
have a PDC. Did you mean the ground bolt on the side of the engine?
Also I took off the radiator grill and opened up the wire harness and
the wire did melt through the interior but did not affect any other
wires.
I am so agitated, since this was a non-important light that has
possibly fried my lights. I am also not real comfortable dealing with
electricity.
The JEEP is in great shape and I do not want to give up on it and junk
it.
I still seem to be having the problem with the idling. Could it be a
bad computer?
My Dad is sending me a multimeter so I can test connections.
THanks again for your help.
Tim K
Mike Romain wrote:
> The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
> wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
> a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
>
> If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
> to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
> bolt.
>
> The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
> so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
> it in place of the burned one.
>
> The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
> but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> > think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> > system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> > up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> > it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> > driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> > headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> > work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> > check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> > out?
> >
> > I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> > would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> > are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
> >
> > Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> > to get fixed?
> >
> > I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> > this! I am an idiot!
> >
> > Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> > that normal?
> >
> > Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
> >
> > Tim K
09-13-2006, 11:46 AM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: I am an Idiot and need help
Mike,
Thanks for your help again, I was reading your post and you mentioned
a power distribution center. Since my jeep is a 90 I do not think I
have a PDC. Did you mean the ground bolt on the side of the engine?
Also I took off the radiator grill and opened up the wire harness and
the wire did melt through the interior but did not affect any other
wires.
I am so agitated, since this was a non-important light that has
possibly fried my lights. I am also not real comfortable dealing with
electricity.
The JEEP is in great shape and I do not want to give up on it and junk
it.
I still seem to be having the problem with the idling. Could it be a
bad computer?
My Dad is sending me a multimeter so I can test connections.
THanks again for your help.
Tim K
Mike Romain wrote:
> The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
> wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
> a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
>
> If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
> to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
> bolt.
>
> The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
> so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
> it in place of the burned one.
>
> The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
> but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> > think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> > system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> > up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> > it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> > driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> > headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> > work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> > check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> > out?
> >
> > I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> > would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> > are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
> >
> > Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> > to get fixed?
> >
> > I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> > this! I am an idiot!
> >
> > Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> > that normal?
> >
> > Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
> >
> > Tim K
Thanks for your help again, I was reading your post and you mentioned
a power distribution center. Since my jeep is a 90 I do not think I
have a PDC. Did you mean the ground bolt on the side of the engine?
Also I took off the radiator grill and opened up the wire harness and
the wire did melt through the interior but did not affect any other
wires.
I am so agitated, since this was a non-important light that has
possibly fried my lights. I am also not real comfortable dealing with
electricity.
The JEEP is in great shape and I do not want to give up on it and junk
it.
I still seem to be having the problem with the idling. Could it be a
bad computer?
My Dad is sending me a multimeter so I can test connections.
THanks again for your help.
Tim K
Mike Romain wrote:
> The lights are also protected with a fuse link wire usually. These are
> wires about 8" long with a loop on one end where it hooks to a bolt and
> a fat rubber tube crimp connector on the end where it joins the harness.
>
> If you follow the positive battery cable to the power distribution box
> to where it bolts on, the fuse links should be coming off this same
> bolt.
>
> The $tealership or some auto parts stores sell fuse link wire in bulk,
> so you can usually just buy a foot or so and cut it to size, then crimp
> it in place of the burned one.
>
> The links have fat rubber insulation that doesn't always look burned,
> but if you pull on them or bend them a dead one will be floppy.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>
> ltkaknm@gmail.com wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys, I posted yesterday about a stalling and bucking problem. I
> > think I have it diagnosed but I think I screwed up the electrical
> > system. I plugged in the engine light and it must not have been hooked
> > up right or had a short in it because the wires started to melt. I got
> > it unsnapped pretty quick, but when I restarted the engine none of my
> > driving lights would work. The fuses seem ok and it is only the
> > headlights, brake lights and the parking lights. The flashers still
> > work and it looks like everything else does as well. What else could I
> > check? Could some of the fuse boxes in the engine have been burned
> > out?
> >
> > I have a Chilton and Haynes Guide and this just happened so I thought I
> > would throw it out there. I am going to a junkyard tommorow and there
> > are a few late 80's and early 90's Cherokees.
> >
> > Do you think I would need to redo the wiring? Would this be expensive
> > to get fixed?
> >
> > I just spent a lot of cash and still have the stalling problem and now
> > this! I am an idiot!
> >
> > Also I ran the engine without the TPS and the IAS and it still ran, is
> > that normal?
> >
> > Thanks and I appreciate any comments,
> >
> > Tim K