How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
01-07-2004, 07:48 PM
#31
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Roy J wrote:
>
> If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> mashed threads, etc.
the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Roy J wrote:
>
> If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> mashed threads, etc.
01-07-2004, 10:08 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.
01-07-2004, 10:08 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.
01-07-2004, 10:08 PM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.
hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
to drive it to work in the AM
L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
>
> Roy J wrote:
>
>>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
>>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
>>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
>>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
>>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
>>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
>>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
>>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
>>mashed threads, etc.
01-08-2004, 12:39 PM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
hubs.
They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.
I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.
hubs.
They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.
I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.
01-08-2004, 12:39 PM
#36
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
hubs.
They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.
I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.
hubs.
They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.
I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.
01-08-2004, 12:39 PM
#37
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
hubs.
They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.
I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.
hubs.
They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
mechanic.
I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Roy J wrote:
>
> A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
>
> But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> to drive it to work in the AM
>
> L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
>
> > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> >
> > Roy J wrote:
> >
> >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> >>mashed threads, etc.
01-08-2004, 01:56 PM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
Hi Mike,
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.
01-08-2004, 01:56 PM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
Hi Mike,
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.
01-08-2004, 01:56 PM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: How tough replacing clutch master cyl and u-joints on 86 Cherokee?
Hi Mike,
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.
It would take some ingenuity, but you could make something for one
of the bolts to back off against that would push/pull against the
knuckle. I remember doing that to break away the bellhousing from a B&M
Hydro that they had epoxy glued together.
God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
Mike Romain wrote:
>
> I have a couple sacrificial bolts for pounding on to try and pop those
> hubs.
>
> They are an extremely difficult if not impossible job for a rookie
> mechanic.
>
> I am no rookie and have spent 2 days on one....
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Roy J wrote:
> >
> > A lot of the guys will try to pound on the bolts to dislodge the
> > hub. Putting a nut on the bolt keeps you from mashing the threads
> > but not from bending the bolt or shortening it. The clear ticket
> > to knocking out a tie rod end is to make sure there is a LOT of
> > iron BEHIND the tie rod to keep it from moving. A 26 pound
> > railroad bar, 12 poound sledge hamer head are good candidates.
> >
> > But back to the banana rating. In the northern climes, I would
> > never tell a Jeeper with limited tools, knowledge, and time that
> > he/she can expect to change out the hub u-joint in the driveway
> > if it hadn't been serviced lately. (definition of 1 banana job)
> > Worse yet, 1 banana folks are the people that can't get it apart,
> > can't get it back together again, have no one to call, and have
> > to drive it to work in the AM
> >
> > L.W.(ßill) ------ III wrote:
> >
> > > Smashed threads? Always put the nut back on upside-down to protect
> > > the threads, or buy a puller of fork for the tie rod ends.
> > > God Bless America, ßill O|||||||O
> > > mailto:-------------------- http://www.----------.com/
> > >
> > > Roy J wrote:
> > >
> > >>If the hub has been out lately and treated with never-seize, it
> > >>is indeed a 1 banana job. I have an old axle that has been forged
> > >>into a nasty wood chisel with a very low angle edge. It took me 4
> > >>hours of pounding, prying, and extremely harsh words to get ONE
> > >>hub out after 12 winters of salt slush. That makes it a 3 banana
> > >>job in my book. And yes, I have tried all the other methods
> > >>including a 6 pound hammer, two hosed wrench, tall jack stands to
> > >>get the clearance, full sets of taps and dies to fix all the
> > >>mashed threads, etc.