Get the one from the dealer. Its the best! It is availble out there on CD I think.
-jenn


On 29 Oct 2006 08:03:23 -0800, "surrealis@gmail.com" <surrealis@gmail.com> wrote:

>>Cool, thank you for the advice. Since the pressure sensor is not the
>>same place as my old jeep. The manual i have is a tad outta date 1987.
>>Which manual would anybody suggest? Haynes/Chilton some other?
>>
>>The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.
>>
>>Thanks Again,
>>-Stephen
>>
>>On Oct 29, 9:40 am, Outatime <WhoKn...@here.com> wrote:
>>> Start by replacing the oil pressure sending unit, which is relatively
>>> inxpensive and easy to swap out.
>>>
>>> With that known OK, it's time to swap out the guage internals. If
>>> you're getting a reading of 50 when the engine is off, and the sending
>>> unit is known good, it's time to swap this out.
>>>
>>> If it's working at all (needle moves), place your bets on the sending unit.

 

Get the one from the dealer. Its the best! It is availble out there on CD I think.
-jenn


On 29 Oct 2006 08:03:23 -0800, "surrealis@gmail.com" <surrealis@gmail.com> wrote:

>>Cool, thank you for the advice. Since the pressure sensor is not the
>>same place as my old jeep. The manual i have is a tad outta date 1987.
>>Which manual would anybody suggest? Haynes/Chilton some other?
>>
>>The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.
>>
>>Thanks Again,
>>-Stephen
>>
>>On Oct 29, 9:40 am, Outatime <WhoKn...@here.com> wrote:
>>> Start by replacing the oil pressure sending unit, which is relatively
>>> inxpensive and easy to swap out.
>>>
>>> With that known OK, it's time to swap out the guage internals. If
>>> you're getting a reading of 50 when the engine is off, and the sending
>>> unit is known good, it's time to swap this out.
>>>
>>> If it's working at all (needle moves), place your bets on the sending unit.

 

Get the one from the dealer. Its the best! It is availble out there on CD I think.
-jenn


On 29 Oct 2006 08:03:23 -0800, "surrealis@gmail.com" <surrealis@gmail.com> wrote:

>>Cool, thank you for the advice. Since the pressure sensor is not the
>>same place as my old jeep. The manual i have is a tad outta date 1987.
>>Which manual would anybody suggest? Haynes/Chilton some other?
>>
>>The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.
>>
>>Thanks Again,
>>-Stephen
>>
>>On Oct 29, 9:40 am, Outatime <WhoKn...@here.com> wrote:
>>> Start by replacing the oil pressure sending unit, which is relatively
>>> inxpensive and easy to swap out.
>>>
>>> With that known OK, it's time to swap out the guage internals. If
>>> you're getting a reading of 50 when the engine is off, and the sending
>>> unit is known good, it's time to swap this out.
>>>
>>> If it's working at all (needle moves), place your bets on the sending unit.

 

If the wire to the sending unit is shorted to ground it will peg on 80 psi.

You can rent a mechanical gauge, often at no cost, from many auto parts
stores.

You should check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge before you
start replacing parts *****-nilly.


<surrealis@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162135554.048937.79170@e3g2000cwe.googlegrou ps.com...
> Hello All, I have a 99 TJ sport with about 99k miles on it. The engine
> oil
> pressure two days ago pegged itself at 80psi on the gauge and has
> stayed
> there. It normally sits between 40-60psi when driving and below that
> when
> idling. The oil has been changed every 4-5000 miles, there is no
> knocking
> and the engine sounds fine. I did an oil change this morning and the
> oil was
> practically pristine so I'm some what confused. Also when I turn my key
> in
> the ignition before cranking the engine the oil pressure gauge goes to
> 50
> without the engine running. I also went on a drive yesterday (100miles)
> and
> after about an hour of driving the oil pressure at idle would go down
> to
> about 60-70. I have heard these little oil gauges are notorious for
> crapping
> out so I'm wondering where to start. I have checked for oil leaks since
> high
> pressure blows a gasket and there are none. I don't own a pressure
> testing
> kit and the only ones I have found are $100-150 so that's out. I don't
> have
> the money to throw parts at it at the moment and it is my daily driver
> so
> how can I diagnose this issue? Where would I start? Should I actually
> take
> it to a shop for a check?
>
> Thank you for any advice/help ahead of time,
> -Stephen
>

 

If the wire to the sending unit is shorted to ground it will peg on 80 psi.

You can rent a mechanical gauge, often at no cost, from many auto parts
stores.

You should check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge before you
start replacing parts *****-nilly.


<surrealis@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162135554.048937.79170@e3g2000cwe.googlegrou ps.com...
> Hello All, I have a 99 TJ sport with about 99k miles on it. The engine
> oil
> pressure two days ago pegged itself at 80psi on the gauge and has
> stayed
> there. It normally sits between 40-60psi when driving and below that
> when
> idling. The oil has been changed every 4-5000 miles, there is no
> knocking
> and the engine sounds fine. I did an oil change this morning and the
> oil was
> practically pristine so I'm some what confused. Also when I turn my key
> in
> the ignition before cranking the engine the oil pressure gauge goes to
> 50
> without the engine running. I also went on a drive yesterday (100miles)
> and
> after about an hour of driving the oil pressure at idle would go down
> to
> about 60-70. I have heard these little oil gauges are notorious for
> crapping
> out so I'm wondering where to start. I have checked for oil leaks since
> high
> pressure blows a gasket and there are none. I don't own a pressure
> testing
> kit and the only ones I have found are $100-150 so that's out. I don't
> have
> the money to throw parts at it at the moment and it is my daily driver
> so
> how can I diagnose this issue? Where would I start? Should I actually
> take
> it to a shop for a check?
>
> Thank you for any advice/help ahead of time,
> -Stephen
>

 

If the wire to the sending unit is shorted to ground it will peg on 80 psi.

You can rent a mechanical gauge, often at no cost, from many auto parts
stores.

You should check the actual pressure with a mechanical gauge before you
start replacing parts *****-nilly.


<surrealis@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162135554.048937.79170@e3g2000cwe.googlegrou ps.com...
> Hello All, I have a 99 TJ sport with about 99k miles on it. The engine
> oil
> pressure two days ago pegged itself at 80psi on the gauge and has
> stayed
> there. It normally sits between 40-60psi when driving and below that
> when
> idling. The oil has been changed every 4-5000 miles, there is no
> knocking
> and the engine sounds fine. I did an oil change this morning and the
> oil was
> practically pristine so I'm some what confused. Also when I turn my key
> in
> the ignition before cranking the engine the oil pressure gauge goes to
> 50
> without the engine running. I also went on a drive yesterday (100miles)
> and
> after about an hour of driving the oil pressure at idle would go down
> to
> about 60-70. I have heard these little oil gauges are notorious for
> crapping
> out so I'm wondering where to start. I have checked for oil leaks since
> high
> pressure blows a gasket and there are none. I don't own a pressure
> testing
> kit and the only ones I have found are $100-150 so that's out. I don't
> have
> the money to throw parts at it at the moment and it is my daily driver
> so
> how can I diagnose this issue? Where would I start? Should I actually
> take
> it to a shop for a check?
>
> Thank you for any advice/help ahead of time,
> -Stephen
>

 

surrealis@gmail.com wrote:

> The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.

If you don't want it to replace it every few years, buy the OEM item.
I've discovered this the hard way. Most aftermarket parts are junk.

I thought of something else that may help you. If you disconnect the
wire from the sending unit and your guage reads zero before/after
starting, you can be even more sure it's the sending unit. Try this
before replacing anything.

 

surrealis@gmail.com wrote:

> The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.

If you don't want it to replace it every few years, buy the OEM item.
I've discovered this the hard way. Most aftermarket parts are junk.

I thought of something else that may help you. If you disconnect the
wire from the sending unit and your guage reads zero before/after
starting, you can be even more sure it's the sending unit. Try this
before replacing anything.

 

surrealis@gmail.com wrote:

> The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.

If you don't want it to replace it every few years, buy the OEM item.
I've discovered this the hard way. Most aftermarket parts are junk.

I thought of something else that may help you. If you disconnect the
wire from the sending unit and your guage reads zero before/after
starting, you can be even more sure it's the sending unit. Try this
before replacing anything.

 

"Outatime" <WhoKnows@here.com> wrote in message
news:B46dnfOdmsVBfdnYnZ2dnUVZ_oOdnZ2d@softcom.net. ..
> surrealis@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > The Dealership one is $130 so thats out.
>
> If you don't want it to replace it every few years, buy the OEM item.
> I've discovered this the hard way. Most aftermarket parts are junk.

I sort of agree, but I haven't had your experience. Car manufacturers don't
*make* cars - they pretty much just assemble them.
(While this is possibly not true for engines, it is true for practically
everything else, especially sensors). You *can* buy a quality aftermarket
item made by someone whose name you recognise.

Dave