high idle
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
gas out very fast.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>> and... anyway.
> >>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>> Mike
> >>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>
> >> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>
> >> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>
> >> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>
> >> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >> near any?
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> > car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>
> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
i checked the cam but it seems to be moving fine. when i hit the
throttle the choke did close all the way. when i started it the choke
opened a little bit and still idled at 2000 rpms.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
88yj wrote:
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> 88yj wrote:
>>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
>>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
>>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
>>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
>>>>>> and... anyway.
>>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
>>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
>>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
>>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
>>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
>>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
>>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
>>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
>>>>>> 88yj wrote:
>>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
>>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
>>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
>>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
>>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
>>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
>>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
>>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
>>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
>>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
>>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
>>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
>>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
>>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
>>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
>>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
>>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
>>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
>>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
>>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
>>>> near any?
>>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>>> - Show quoted text -
>>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
>>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
>> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
>> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>>
>> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
>> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
>> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>>
>> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
>> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>>
>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> gas out very fast.
>
That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
adjustment is needed.
It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
for more than a couple minutes.
You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: high idle
On May 16, 11:26 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>>>> and... anyway.
> >>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
> >>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
> >>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
> >>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
> >>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >>>> near any?
> >>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> >>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
> >> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> >> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> >> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> >> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> >> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> >> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> >> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> > cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> > the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> > gas out very fast.
>
> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
> adjustment is needed.
>
> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>
> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>
> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>
> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>
> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>
> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
> for more than a couple minutes.
>
> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
a gauge i would love to hear it
> 88yj wrote:
> > On May 16, 9:15 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >> 88yj wrote:
> >>> On May 15, 2:29 pm, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>> On May 15, 10:18 am, Mike Romain <roma...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >>>>>> The only thing I can think of that would be affected so much by just
> >>>>>> letting the clutch pedal out in neutral would be that the body has lost
> >>>>>> it's ground and is stealing one through the clutch pedal. I have seen
> >>>>>> that happen with the brake pedal and gas pedal and gear shift and radio
> >>>>>> and... anyway.
> >>>>>> There should be a wire mesh strap that runs from the rear of the engine
> >>>>>> head to the firewall. This does go bad.
> >>>>>> It doesn't sound like the choke is working proper either, but that would
> >>>>>> have no bearing on the position of the clutch pedal...
> >>>>>> A carb kit is only about $20.00 or so and is easy to put in them.
> >>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> >>>>>> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> >>>>>> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> >>>>>> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> >>>>>> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
> >>>>>> 88yj wrote:
> >>>>>>> i have an 88 wrangler yj and it starts fine but idles very high at
> >>>>>>> first. for the first 10 or 15 minutes it will idle at almost 3000
> >>>>>>> rpms when either in nuetral or when clutch is in. when i have the
> >>>>>>> clutch in half way it will idle at half that. when i put it in gear
> >>>>>>> it will take off as i gradually let off the clutch because the rpms
> >>>>>>> are so high. when the clutch is completely off the rpms are fine.
> >>>>>>> when i looked at the carburetor the choke was totaly open and there
> >>>>>>> was a lot of gas squirting out for just idling. i closed the choke a
> >>>>>>> little bit by hand and the rpms dropped but the gas was still coming
> >>>>>>> out at the same rate, as soon as i would let go the choke would open
> >>>>>>> back up and idle at 3000 again. i have the 4.2 liter straight 6.
> >>>>>>> anyone with an idea is greatly appreciated.
> >>>>> the clutch only has an effect when its in gear.
> >>>> OK, is this a new thing? Anything else happen or get changed?
> >>>> It idles proper at 650-700 when warmed up?
> >>>> A blown canister can cause a high idle, but that normally stays high.
> >>>> Some had this vacuum solenoid valve behind the carb that can blow an
> >>>> open into the PCV system if it isn't working right or is stuck. It
> >>>> should be affected by the engine warming up too.
> >>>> Has anyone been messing around with the vacuum line plumbing or working
> >>>> near any?
> >>>> Mike- Hide quoted text -
> >>>> - Show quoted text -
> >>> no thats what i meant in the first message. no one has worked on my
> >>> car but me and dont think i touched any vaccum lines
> >> I would first verify what bllsht pointed at, the fast idle cam being
> >> stuck as that is very common. The fix is a clean with carb cleaner spray.
>
> >> Next I would have the engine off and cold and give it two shots on the
> >> throttle like you should for a normal start, then open the air filter
> >> without starting it to verify the choke is closed.
>
> >> I was thinking electrical due to me misreading your clutch settings and
> >> agree the basics should be looked at before messing around.
>
> >> Mike- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > i checked the cam but it is moving fine. when i hit the throttle the
> > cam moves as the screw lets it and the choke closed. when i started
> > the car the choke opened a little bit but still idled at 2000 and spit
> > gas out very fast.
>
> That sounds almost correct. It just sounds like a slight tune up
> adjustment is needed.
>
> It 'should' only idle at 1750 when first started.
>
> The choke linkage should have the fast idle cam sitting on the screw at
> the second from the end step when the engine is cold and off after
> punching the gas to close it. You then turn this screw to get it to
> come down to 1750 rpm once it starts.
>
> The next step should be around 1400 rpm and the first step should be
> around 1100 to 1200 rpm.
>
> I have mine so the first step is a 1200 rpm fast idle 'when warmed up'
> for my hand throttle and winch use which gives me the correct 'factory'
> setting of 1750 rpm at full choke when cold.
>
> If you don't have the factory book for your Jeep, the Haynes CJ manual
> is the best one for your engine and it's basic controls as well as the
> engine bay wiring harness which matches the 86 CJ7's 258.
>
> Oh, if you unplug the choke it just closes and the engine will not run
> for more than a couple minutes.
>
> You 'can' easily put a manual choke cable on it like I did, but yours
> sounds like it is almost working perfectly.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
> Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view!
> Jan/06http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
> (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
im actually starting to think that the cam was stuck somehow because
when i moved it manualy the rpms dropped. thanks for the help with
that. also, is there a way to adjust the air/fuel mixture without a
gauge, i have a feeling its not set right due to the fact that i just
got 28 miles from almost half a tank. i believe i know where the
screws are to adjust it. theres two on the side closest to the front
of the car towards the bottom of the carburetor, they also look like
they are intentionly countersunk to prevent unwated movement. Im 90%
sure its not the original carburetor so i doubt youll be able to tell
me exactly where they are. but if there is a way cheaper than buying
a gauge i would love to hear it
